I'm no exoert, but I don't like using PVC anwhere on a boat. As it
ages, it gets brittle and can break. For underground or in a house,
this isn't an issue. But in a boat, there is constant vibration, etc.
that can cause it to crack when it looses its' elasticity.

The only time I've ever had uncontrolled water entering a boat, was when
a PVC adapter that a previous owner had put on a through hull failed
(it's amazing how fast the water comes through a 3/4" thru-hull when
this happens).

Adam wrote:
This is a very short list/description of what I'm going to install on my
boat.

Any suggestions, changes or recommendation are more than welcome.

Thanks in advance

Adam

Project - 37' "Spray" by Bruce Roberts, GRP, wheelhouse, 2-4 people aboard,
off shore cruiser.

Fresh water - 2x60 gallons polyethylene water tanks, 5/8" I.D PVC with Nylon
Reinforcement hose to main bronze manifolds (with red brass nipples), GROCO
WSC60, ½" I.D PVC with Nylon Reinforcement hose - Galley, Head sink and
shower, Cockpit shower.

Sea water - Washdown - Jabsco 30700-012, 1/2" I.D PVC with Nylon
Reinforcement hose. PVC fittings - two utility tubes (fore & aft).

Gray water - 1x 30 gallons polyethylene grey tank, for galley, head sink and
head shower. All "piping" with 1" Sanitation Hose, ABS/PVC fittings.
Discharge - Commercial Duty Water Puppy Model 16360-1003 Jabsco & Check
Valve + Hand Diaphragm Pump Jabsco - Seacock just above WL.

Bilge - Rule 3700 Bilge Pump & Rule Superswitch & Check Valve + two Hand
Diaphragm Pump Jabsco - one operated from cockpit and one from wheelhouse.

Sanitation - 30 gallons polyethylene holding tank with Macerator pump Jabsco
+ Check Valve. Dock discharge through deck fill.



Fresh water - from fresh water tanks, water maker and shore supply

Fresh water supplied through the two deck fills (star or port side), or
through pressurized shore supply (with pressure regulator).



On dock - fresh water shore supply can be connected directly to sea water
system.



Head - water from sea water system - discharge to holding tank or outside
through Y valve, 1 1/2" Sanitation Hose



Two seacock 2" - one for IN and one for OUT.



Separate faucets for seawater only in galley and head sink.



As a backup - galley and head sink have foot pumps for fresh water - not
pressurized through the Y valve for seawater optional.

Questions: What kind of water heater (diesel fuel?), which toilette? I
didn't know that I have to many to choose from - thanks Peggie :-), What
about strainers/filters and check valves - I have to install some of them.








--
Dan Best - (707) 431-1662, Healdsburg, CA 95448
B-2/75 1977-1979
Tayana 37 #192, "Tricia Jean"
http://rangerbest.home.comcast.net/TriciaJean.JPG

Dan;
I have been told that ABS shouldn't be used because can break.
But PVC is OK.
In my system Seacocks and all fittings are bronze made.
PVC for pressurized seawater system
PVC/ABS in grey system only.
BTW "Tricia Jean" - looks nice
Adam

"Dan Best" wrote in message
...
I'm no exoert, but I don't like using PVC anwhere on a boat. As it
ages, it gets brittle and can break. For underground or in a house,
this isn't an issue. But in a boat, there is constant vibration, etc.
that can cause it to crack when it looses its' elasticity.

The only time I've ever had uncontrolled water entering a boat, was when
a PVC adapter that a previous owner had put on a through hull failed
(it's amazing how fast the water comes through a 3/4" thru-hull when
this happens).

Dan Best - (707) 431-1662, Healdsburg, CA 95448
B-2/75 1977-1979
Tayana 37 #192, "Tricia Jean"
http://rangerbest.home.comcast.net/TriciaJean.JPG

PVC ftgs work well, but they should not be installed with any stresses
on them (ie. nothing resting on top of them or pulling on them). Also,
when connecting plastic to metal with threads, try to make the metal the
female and the plastic the male - it's easy to tighten the connection to
the point where a metal male thread will split the female plastic ftg.
If it's necessary to use a female plastic ftg, put 5 or 6 layers of
teflon tape on the male end and only tighten by hand until it stops
leaking. Start threads carefully - it's _very_ easy to cross thread
plastic on metal. PVC pipe needs firm support every 2' and any fixture
connections s/b made with hose to reduce vibration and stress on the
pipe when the boat hull "moves".

Suggest, if you have room, you install a TEE ftg direct onto the seacock
and take off the water from the side. Cap or plug the top of the TEE
(make sure to use lots of teflon goo and tape and tighter LESS than the
TEE/ThruHull joint. If/when the thru-hull becomes plugged, you close the
seacock as possible, remove the plug, thread on (quickly) a short length
of pipe you have handy to raise the opening above the water line, then
open the seacock and poke everything clear with a length of smaller
diameter pipe. On the supply, works best when you do not have a
permanently installed grill over the thru-hull on the outside of the
hull, but instead rely on a large cleanable strainer inboard.

All hose s/b opaque because light will encourage various live growths in
the hose.

Rufus


Adam wrote:
Dan;
I have been told that ABS shouldn't be used because can break.
But PVC is OK.
In my system Seacocks and all fittings are bronze made.
PVC for pressurized seawater system
PVC/ABS in grey system only.
BTW "Tricia Jean" - looks nice
Adam

"Dan Best" wrote in message
...

I'm no exoert, but I don't like using PVC anwhere on a boat. As it
ages, it gets brittle and can break. For underground or in a house,
this isn't an issue. But in a boat, there is constant vibration, etc.
that can cause it to crack when it looses its' elasticity.

The only time I've ever had uncontrolled water entering a boat, was when
a PVC adapter that a previous owner had put on a through hull failed
(it's amazing how fast the water comes through a 3/4" thru-hull when
this happens).

Dan Best - (707) 431-1662, Healdsburg, CA 95448
B-2/75 1977-1979
Tayana 37 #192, "Tricia Jean"
http://rangerbest.home.comcast.net/TriciaJean.JPG

Thanks Rufus
Adam
"Rufus Laggren" wrote in message
news:qoUlc.32881$kh4.1589335@attbi_s52...
PVC ftgs work well, but they should not be installed with any stresses
on them (ie. nothing resting on top of them or pulling on them). Also,
when connecting plastic to metal with threads, try to make the metal the
female and the plastic the male - it's easy to tighten the connection to
the point where a metal male thread will split the female plastic ftg.
If it's necessary to use a female plastic ftg, put 5 or 6 layers of
teflon tape on the male end and only tighten by hand until it stops
leaking. Start threads carefully - it's _very_ easy to cross thread
plastic on metal. PVC pipe needs firm support every 2' and any fixture
connections s/b made with hose to reduce vibration and stress on the
pipe when the boat hull "moves".

Suggest, if you have room, you install a TEE ftg direct onto the seacock
and take off the water from the side. Cap or plug the top of the TEE
(make sure to use lots of teflon goo and tape and tighter LESS than the
TEE/ThruHull joint. If/when the thru-hull becomes plugged, you close the
seacock as possible, remove the plug, thread on (quickly) a short length
of pipe you have handy to raise the opening above the water line, then
open the seacock and poke everything clear with a length of smaller
diameter pipe. On the supply, works best when you do not have a
permanently installed grill over the thru-hull on the outside of the
hull, but instead rely on a large cleanable strainer inboard.

All hose s/b opaque because light will encourage various live growths in
the hose.

Rufus


Adam wrote:
Dan;
I have been told that ABS shouldn't be used because can break.
But PVC is OK.
In my system Seacocks and all fittings are bronze made.
PVC for pressurized seawater system
PVC/ABS in grey system only.
BTW "Tricia Jean" - looks nice
Adam

"Dan Best" wrote in message
...

I'm no exoert, but I don't like using PVC anwhere on a boat. As it
ages, it gets brittle and can break. For underground or in a house,
this isn't an issue. But in a boat, there is constant vibration, etc.
that can cause it to crack when it looses its' elasticity.

The only time I've ever had uncontrolled water entering a boat, was when
a PVC adapter that a previous owner had put on a through hull failed
(it's amazing how fast the water comes through a 3/4" thru-hull when
this happens).

Dan Best - (707) 431-1662, Healdsburg, CA 95448
B-2/75 1977-1979
Tayana 37 #192, "Tricia Jean"
http://rangerbest.home.comcast.net/TriciaJean.JPG

Dan;
I have been told that ABS shouldn't be used because can break.
But PVC is OK.
In my system Seacocks and all fittings are bronze made.
PVC for pressurized seawater system
PVC/ABS in grey system only.
BTW "Tricia Jean" - looks nice
Adam

"Dan Best" wrote in message
...
I'm no exoert, but I don't like using PVC anwhere on a boat. As it
ages, it gets brittle and can break. For underground or in a house,
this isn't an issue. But in a boat, there is constant vibration, etc.
that can cause it to crack when it looses its' elasticity.

The only time I've ever had uncontrolled water entering a boat, was when
a PVC adapter that a previous owner had put on a through hull failed
(it's amazing how fast the water comes through a 3/4" thru-hull when
this happens).

Dan Best - (707) 431-1662, Healdsburg, CA 95448
B-2/75 1977-1979
Tayana 37 #192, "Tricia Jean"
http://rangerbest.home.comcast.net/TriciaJean.JPG