On Sat, 19 Jul 2008 18:27:00 +1000, Herodotus
wrote:

On Sat, 19 Jul 2008 06:46:33 +0700, Bruce in Bangkok
wrote:

On Fri, 18 Jul 2008 11:36:32 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Jul 18, 8:42*am, Larry wrote:
Bruce in Bangkok wrote :

Well, first of all you need a "Larry Lesson" on how batteries charge
as your 110 amp alternator is just a waste of money.

No, no! *Everyone knows a boat battery can be charged in 3 minutes if you
buy a big enough alternator!

Don't let logic, battery chemistry and me upset it.

In practice high output alternators make a big difference getting up
to about 80% charge. That can be very, very useful. It may be that
you have some logic and battery chemistry in your text books but I
live on my boat and go voyaging a bit. High output alternators are a
good thing.

So do Larry, Peter and myself. (Well, larry doesn't live on one, he
just voyages).

Frankly, in my experience a 110 amp alternator and a 440 A.H. battery
bank is overkill,

\The reason why I have a Bosch 120 AMP alternator is that the Nanni 37
HP diesel came with a standard 55 AMP one. I got the larger alternator
because I read that they never output their full power and it was a
great price new. With the smart charge/fast charge system it only ever
outputs a steady 80 amps before tapering down. Also, it seldom gets
hot.

The first one needed replacing in Europe so went to Bosch agents in
Italy and Spain. They hunted the part numbers from the casing and even
phoned Germany before receiving advice that Australian Bosch part
numbers were different. Found a new Bosch 120 amp one with the same
mounting in Spain in a catalogue - price 900 Euros - $1,500.

Arrived back in Australia, went to the dealer and purchased a Bosch
120 amp one for $240 - new.
Looked at the casing. It had a label "Made in Spain". That's
capitalism for you.

Actually a XX amp alternator WILL produce XX power. The question is
for how long, usually not very.

Actually I should not needle you about a big alternator as I have one
too (but I know I don't need it :-) I've also got a "auto - manual"
selector which is a two way switch and a rheostat. Switches the
alternator from regulator to manual control. Good for when the
regulator fails :-(

The auto/manual switch sounds like just the thing. Run the engine at
low revs and crank up the field current and put out prodigious
amperage at low revs but it doesn't work that way. If the battery is
down even a little there is no difference between regulator and manual
selections. Apparently a "smart" regulator runs wide open until you
get to about 14 volts and then slows things down.

By the way. The last alternator I bought cost me US$50, used. Took it
to the rewind shop and had them check everything and test it - $7.00.
Like new alternator $57.00. Cheap is good, as Larry says.

But it failed the other day when I set off for the ship yard. Had only
been down there under the floor for five years too -- they just don't
build 'um like they used to :-(

Talk about capitalism. When I was in Viet Nam fighting the communists
and making the world safe for capitalism I ordered some parts. When
they arrived each and every one had etched on the case "Made in
Yugoslavia".


Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom)