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Rick & Linda Bernard
 
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Default MarSolve

Anyone tried it? I have a question in on their web site but they don't seem
to want to answer it.

Let me poise the question to the group -

I have a 50 hp fresh water cooled diesel that is beginning to run hot. The
engine temp seems to be creeping up to 200 F at cruising speed with salt
water temps in the 60's. Used to run at 180-185 with water temps of 80+.
Water flow out the back seems less then expected and has been going down
over the years even with a new raw water impeller-pump.

Without pulling the heat exchanger, exhaust elbow, and hydro lift out can
Marsolve clean up the system? Marsolve is $20 a gallon and I am willing to
pay vs having to pull the heat exchanger and elbow. (need to pull the heat
exchanger to get enough room to get the elbow. In fact I might need to pull
the exhaust manifold)


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Doug Dotson
 
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Default MarSolve

How old is everything? I'd dismantle the thing so that I could
find the real reason. Start with the raw water intake and strainer
first. Then work your way along until you find the culprit.

Doug
s/v Callista

"Rick & Linda Bernard" wrote in message
...
Anyone tried it? I have a question in on their web site but they don't

seem
to want to answer it.

Let me poise the question to the group -

I have a 50 hp fresh water cooled diesel that is beginning to run hot.

The
engine temp seems to be creeping up to 200 F at cruising speed with salt
water temps in the 60's. Used to run at 180-185 with water temps of 80+.
Water flow out the back seems less then expected and has been going down
over the years even with a new raw water impeller-pump.

Without pulling the heat exchanger, exhaust elbow, and hydro lift out can
Marsolve clean up the system? Marsolve is $20 a gallon and I am willing

to
pay vs having to pull the heat exchanger and elbow. (need to pull the

heat
exchanger to get enough room to get the elbow. In fact I might need to

pull
the exhaust manifold)




  #3   Report Post  
JAXAshby
 
Posts: n/a
Default MarSolve

Marsolve sells their product in large quantities to commercial users and is not
known for being extremely responsive to one or two gallon users.

That said, Marsolve (and Ryd-Lyme, a similar product) are well thought of by
the community of raw water cooled engine users.

I have used oxalic acid myself, but Marsolve is reported to work as well or
better, and do so without loss of metal.

Anyone tried it? I have a question in on their web site but they don't seem
to want to answer it.

Let me poise the question to the group -

I have a 50 hp fresh water cooled diesel that is beginning to run hot. The
engine temp seems to be creeping up to 200 F at cruising speed with salt
water temps in the 60's. Used to run at 180-185 with water temps of 80+.
Water flow out the back seems less then expected and has been going down
over the years even with a new raw water impeller-pump.

Without pulling the heat exchanger, exhaust elbow, and hydro lift out can
Marsolve clean up the system? Marsolve is $20 a gallon and I am willing to
pay vs having to pull the heat exchanger and elbow. (need to pull the heat
exchanger to get enough room to get the elbow. In fact I might need to pull
the exhaust manifold)










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Messing In Boats
 
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Default MarSolve

Read the Powerboat reports that came in my mail today. It has a report
on Marsolve and two more caustic products they use to remove barnacles
with. The others are Starbrite and Marykate.

Capt. Jeff

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Rich Hampel
 
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Default MarSolve

First, see if the volumetric output .... (the water coming out at the
exhaust hole at the back of the boat) is within 'spec'. That will be
found in your owners maintenance manual; and, will be something like:
3 gallons per minute at 2500 rpm. You measure it with a bucket and a
stopwatch. If the that flow is not correct, then look for a
restriction in the system such as broken impeller vane lodged in the
rubber hoses, large rust 'flake' breaking loose inside the exhaust
manifold (common occurance), etc. etc. Old cast iron exhaust
manifolds have the 'habit' of breaking off huge 'slabs' of rusted cast
iron inside the manifold passages that will restrict the water flow.
If the volumetric flow rate is within or near spec. then Marsolve or
Rydlyme will work wonders in descaling the exchanger and the engine
internals. Use it on both cooling circuits: the raw water side and
the fresh water side.

Check for a flow restriction with a bucket and a stop watch FIRST. ;-)


In article , Rick & Linda Bernard
wrote:

Anyone tried it? I have a question in on their web site but they don't seem
to want to answer it.

Let me poise the question to the group -

I have a 50 hp fresh water cooled diesel that is beginning to run hot. The
engine temp seems to be creeping up to 200 F at cruising speed with salt
water temps in the 60's. Used to run at 180-185 with water temps of 80+.
Water flow out the back seems less then expected and has been going down
over the years even with a new raw water impeller-pump.

Without pulling the heat exchanger, exhaust elbow, and hydro lift out can
Marsolve clean up the system? Marsolve is $20 a gallon and I am willing to
pay vs having to pull the heat exchanger and elbow. (need to pull the heat
exchanger to get enough room to get the elbow. In fact I might need to pull
the exhaust manifold)




  #6   Report Post  
Evan Gatehouse
 
Posts: n/a
Default MarSolve


"Rick & Linda Bernard" wrote in message
...
Anyone tried it? I have a question in on their web site but they don't

seem
to want to answer it.

Let me poise the question to the group -

I have a 50 hp fresh water cooled diesel that is beginning to run hot.

The
engine temp seems to be creeping up to 200 F at cruising speed with salt
water temps in the 60's. Used to run at 180-185 with water temps of 80+.
Water flow out the back seems less then expected and has been going down
over the years even with a new raw water impeller-pump.


I had pretty similar symptoms with my last diesel. Just a slow increase in
temperatures. I used a tiny sample bottle (about 100ml or less) of Marsolve
on just the heat exchanger. I let it soak for at least 1/2 hour or more.
Cured the problem.

I agree with the other posters that suggested checking for blockages caused
by impeller vanes or crud in the heat exchanger, but a slow increase in
temperature suggests gradual scaling of the heat exchanger.


--
Evan Gatehouse

you'll have to rewrite my email address to get to me
ceilydh AT 3web dot net
(fools the spammers)


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