I like to install seperate battery for windlass 1500W.
My question is - what type of battery is better - starting or not
(deep cycle)?
Starting battery - what I understand is for high current for short
time. Does it apply to windlass?
Thanks in advance
Mada

wrote in news:a2620ae4-f5cc-474a-9323-8107135c9562
@w5g2000prd.googlegroups.com:

Starting battery - what I understand is for high current for short
time. Does it apply to windlass?
Thanks in advance
Mada



Yes...starting is best. You need lots of current for a short period of
time that will recharge quickly.....and that's a starting battery. Buy the
biggest one that will fit where it goes....of course.

On May 20, 3:11*pm, wrote:
I like to install seperate battery for windlass 1500W.


Hi
are you considering:
1) a seperate battery located in the bow closer to the windless
or
2) simply add another battery bank someplace aft near house bank/
engine/charger/disribution pannel?

How many battery banks do you have now?

If ur thinkin of a battery in the bow to reduce windlass power supply
cable size nigal calder says not a good idea. Besides 2/0 awg wire
isnt that much...... maybe $4-5/ft.

Bob

It is true – my idea was to install separate battery close to
windlass.
It is also true I do not have any battery (bank) yet.
I have only one starting batter – and for now I use it for all my
instruments.
I did install windlass a couple days ago and I’m going to buy
batteries now.
I’m planning to buy two batteries Motomaster Nautilus Deep Cycle
103AmpHour each. The first idea was to add separate starting battery
for windlass only.
Now my question is – it is enough 206 AmpHour bank for my needs.
I know – you will ask – what is my need?
A little bit more info: So far I have UHF Radio, and sailing
instruments plus installed windlass. I have already installed two
battery boxes 8D size – but 8D are very expensive – and I can’t afford
8Ds now.
I have to add also – I built my boat (Spray 36) and after 7 years of
crazy work – I was sailing first time last summer.
If you like to visit my website – please take a look here www.seagoatonline.com
Thx a lot

It is true – my idea was to install separate battery close to
windlass.
It is also true I do not have any battery (bank) yet.
I have only one starting batter – and for now I use it for all my
instruments.
I did install windlass a couple days ago and I’m going to buy
batteries now.
I’m planning to buy two batteries Motomaster Nautilus Deep Cycle
103AmpHour each. The first idea was to add separate starting battery
for windlass only.
Now my question is – it is enough 206 AmpHour bank for my needs.
I know – you will ask – what is my need?
A little bit more info: So far I have UHF Radio, and sailing
instruments plus installed windlass. I have already installed two
battery boxes 8D size – but 8D are very expensive – and I can’t afford
8Ds now.
I have to add also – I built my boat (Spray 36) and after 7 years of
crazy work – I was sailing first time last summer.
If you like to visit my website – please take a look here www.seagoatonline.com
Thx a lot

I hesitate to weigh in on this as I know my limitations regarding
electricity, but this logic makes sense to me: that having a separate
battery close to the windlass to reduce the long run of a large cable
ignores the fact that you will still need to run a fairly large wire to the
battery to carry what may be a large charge to a depleted battery.

wrote in message
...
It is true – my idea was to install separate battery close to
windlass.
It is also true I do not have any battery (bank) yet.
I have only one starting batter – and for now I use it for all my
instruments.
I did install windlass a couple days ago and I’m going to buy
batteries now.
I’m planning to buy two batteries Motomaster Nautilus Deep Cycle
103AmpHour each. The first idea was to add separate starting battery
for windlass only.
Now my question is – it is enough 206 AmpHour bank for my needs.
I know – you will ask – what is my need?
A little bit more info: So far I have UHF Radio, and sailing
instruments plus installed windlass. I have already installed two
battery boxes 8D size – but 8D are very expensive – and I can’t afford
8Ds now.
I have to add also – I built my boat (Spray 36) and after 7 years of
crazy work – I was sailing first time last summer.
If you like to visit my website – please take a look here
www.seagoatonline.com
Thx a lot

Hi gary:

I recomend you read nigal calders chapter on windlass. he does not
recomend that approach for a couple reasons. I think it would be best
for you to read his chapter yourself instead of me summarizing his
work.

I for one after great debate am installing two 35' 2/0 awg cables
based on 7% voltage drop and a max load of 150 amps. That should toast
my 150 amp fuse as a reminder im over loading my windlass. at a
"normal" 100 amp load ill have only a 5% votage drop. Both well under
Joe's advice to keep the voltage drop under 10%. joe is the helpful
tech dude at Maxwell North America SF. Give him a call and ask him
what he thinks. I dont recomend listening to anyone here. Just call
the north american tech guru and ask. Duh!

Be sides 2/0 cable is neither that expeisive nor that large.........

Calder says you should really size for the ultimate stall load which
may reach 300-400 amps ! but that would take 4/0 cable and that IS TOO
big for me to handle! Instead Ill just operate my windlass as
instructed and NOT stall it. Duh..

Read calder before going off half cocked... half baked... and half
witted.
Bob

Garland Gray II wrote:
I hesitate to weigh in on this as I know my limitations regarding
electricity, but this logic makes sense to me: that having a separate
battery close to the windlass to reduce the long run of a large cable
ignores the fact that you will still need to run a fairly large wire to the
battery to carry what may be a large charge to a depleted battery.



Actually, this is the only part that makes sense. Since the charging
current can be low, a much smaller wire would be needed. (One must be
careful that the Voltage stay within the normal charging level. Its
easy to forget that a 5% drop can mean chronic undercharging.) Also, if
a dedicated windlass battery is used, an AGM starting battery may be the
best bet - no maintenance, no leakage, lower self discharge, etc.

In general, however, the dedicated windlass battery doesn't make sense,
especially if the engine is usually run when the windlass is used. (Its
certainly been a few years, make that decades, since I sailed off the
anchor.) I would go with a dedicated starter battery and a deep cycle
house bank of 200 Amp-hours or more. The foolproof way to charge is an
Echo-Charge. All charging would go to the house bank, with the the
starter fed by the Echo. The only switch needed is a jumper to latch
the two banks together, though if its setup properly jumper should not
be needed often and can be replaced with manual alternative cabling.

On Wed, 21 May 2008 20:32:01 -0400, "Garland Gray II"
wrote:

I hesitate to weigh in on this as I know my limitations regarding
electricity, but this logic makes sense to me: that having a separate
battery close to the windlass to reduce the long run of a large cable
ignores the fact that you will still need to run a fairly large wire to the
battery to carry what may be a large charge to a depleted battery.

wrote in message
...
It is true – my idea was to install separate battery close to
windlass.
It is also true I do not have any battery (bank) yet.
I have only one starting batter – and for now I use it for all my
instruments.
I did install windlass a couple days ago and I’m going to buy
batteries now.
I’m planning to buy two batteries Motomaster Nautilus Deep Cycle
103AmpHour each. The first idea was to add separate starting battery
for windlass only.
Now my question is – it is enough 206 AmpHour bank for my needs.
I know – you will ask – what is my need?
A little bit more info: So far I have UHF Radio, and sailing
instruments plus installed windlass. I have already installed two
battery boxes 8D size – but 8D are very expensive – and I can’t afford
8Ds now.
I have to add also – I built my boat (Spray 36) and after 7 years of
crazy work – I was sailing first time last summer.
If you like to visit my website – please take a look here
www.seagoatonline.com
Thx a lot

Hi Adam,
Hearty congratulations are in order to you and your wife. Having built
my own yacht from scratch I can appreciate what you have done and
achieved. More boat building projects are started than are completed.

Most people do not realise the determination it takes to keep on going
especially when the work at hand is hours of tiresome and boring
sanding.

I was interested to note that your boatshed is almost identical in
construction to the one I used - same blue plastic sheeting and the
same lack of head room underneath. I know well the stooped posture.

Don't worry about not being able to afford more than the basics. The
important thing is to get your boat in the water which you have done.
The rest will come later and you will find yourself adding extra items
as your "minimum" threshold changes. I was happy with, and crossed
oceans for a long time with second hand sails, a depth sounder,
compass and second hand sextant.

As to deep cycle batteries, a retired American friend who sails
between Malaysia and the Philippines picks out the good 6 volt ones
such as Trojan from the discarded ones at marinas and regenerates
them. That's all Bob uses.

regards
Peter

I don't see a "Gary" in this thread, so I guess you are talking to me.
Bob, you must not have read what I wrote, as I was critical of the idea
myself.

"Bob" wrote in message
...
Hi gary:

I recomend you read nigal calders chapter on windlass. he does not
recomend that approach for a couple reasons. I think it would be best
for you to read his chapter yourself instead of me summarizing his
work.

I for one after great debate am installing two 35' 2/0 awg cables
based on 7% voltage drop and a max load of 150 amps. That should toast
my 150 amp fuse as a reminder im over loading my windlass. at a
"normal" 100 amp load ill have only a 5% votage drop. Both well under
Joe's advice to keep the voltage drop under 10%. joe is the helpful
tech dude at Maxwell North America SF. Give him a call and ask him
what he thinks. I dont recomend listening to anyone here. Just call
the north american tech guru and ask. Duh!

Be sides 2/0 cable is neither that expeisive nor that large.........

Calder says you should really size for the ultimate stall load which
may reach 300-400 amps ! but that would take 4/0 cable and that IS TOO
big for me to handle! Instead Ill just operate my windlass as
instructed and NOT stall it. Duh..

Read calder before going off half cocked... half baked... and half
witted.
Bob