trouble starting engine when solar panels are working
Why do you have the solar charging both house and start batteries??
If there is nothing other than the starter drawing of that battery, why charge it. You're most likely going to kill it. I have solar and wind. They go only to the house bank. The start battery only runs the windlass and starter. I gets charged by the engine (running) and dockside. |
trouble starting engine when solar panels are working
On May 6, 6:21 am, wrote:
Why do you have the solar charging both house and start batteries?? If there is nothing other than the starter drawing of that battery, why charge it. You're most likely going to kill it. I have solar and wind. They go only to the house bank. The start battery only runs the windlass and starter. I gets charged by the engine (running) and dockside. The engine and house are the same size (100ah), I only have 2 and just use them together, it's not a separate smaller starter battery. |
trouble starting engine when solar panels are working
tom wrote:
On May 6, 6:21 am, wrote: Why do you have the solar charging both house and start batteries?? If there is nothing other than the starter drawing of that battery, why charge it. You're most likely going to kill it. I have solar and wind. They go only to the house bank. The start battery only runs the windlass and starter. I gets charged by the engine (running) and dockside. The engine and house are the same size (100ah), I only have 2 and just use them together, it's not a separate smaller starter battery. So you actually have one bank with two batteries. I had an opposite problem - low voltage issues that affected starting over the years. The final diagnostic that clarified everything for me was the old "screwdriver across the starter terminals" trick. My problem was that the "neutral lockout" wires that went back to the gear shift before feeding the solenoid were too small so the solenoid didn't always get enough voltage to trip. One thing is that I thought I heard to solenoid tripping but it was something else clicking - this became clear when the screwdriver test showed that the solenoid was perfectly willing to fire when it had sufficient voltage. WARNING: the "screwdriver test" send a lot of current through the tip - it will likely be charred and there will be many sparks. This problem is more perplexing because a high voltage generally cures more problems than it creates. I can only guess that one of the charge devices is actually a drain in some situations. |
trouble starting engine when solar panels are working
On May 6, 8:23 am, jeff wrote:
tom wrote: On May 6, 6:21 am, wrote: Why do you have the solar charging both house and start batteries?? If there is nothing other than the starter drawing of that battery, why charge it. You're most likely going to kill it. I have solar and wind. They go only to the house bank. The start battery only runs the windlass and starter. I gets charged by the engine (running) and dockside. The engine and house are the same size (100ah), I only have 2 and just use them together, it's not a separate smaller starter battery. So you actually have one bank with two batteries. I had an opposite problem - low voltage issues that affected starting over the years. The final diagnostic that clarified everything for me was the old "screwdriver across the starter terminals" trick. My problem was that the "neutral lockout" wires that went back to the gear shift before feeding the solenoid were too small so the solenoid didn't always get enough voltage to trip. One thing is that I thought I heard to solenoid tripping but it was something else clicking - this became clear when the screwdriver test showed that the solenoid was perfectly willing to fire when it had sufficient voltage. WARNING: the "screwdriver test" send a lot of current through the tip - it will likely be charred and there will be many sparks. This problem is more perplexing because a high voltage generally cures more problems than it creates. I can only guess that one of the charge devices is actually a drain in some situations. I actually have 2 solenoids, the starter solenoid of course, then another to trip the starter one (yanmar). |
trouble starting engine when solar panels are working
This problem is more perplexing because a high voltage generally cures
more problems than it creates. I can only guess that one of the charge devices is actually a drain in some situations. Agreed, that's why I think it has to be something electronic (built in safety override thingy), I haven't tried to put a meter on it yet, just thought maybe somebody knew what it could be off the top of your head. Note, the newer yanmars come with more electronics; engine panel/tach/ hr meter. I don't like it. Should electronics that are design for 12v be able to function at 14v? I would think so. |
trouble starting engine when solar panels are working
tom wrote:
This problem is more perplexing because a high voltage generally cures more problems than it creates. I can only guess that one of the charge devices is actually a drain in some situations. Agreed, that's why I think it has to be something electronic (built in safety override thingy), I haven't tried to put a meter on it yet, just thought maybe somebody knew what it could be off the top of your head. Note, the newer yanmars come with more electronics; engine panel/tach/ hr meter. I don't like it. I didn't find anything suspicious in my Yanmar panel, for 2GM20FC's with saildrive, other than overly long, thin wires for the neutral lockout. I'm a bit surprised it comes with the second solenoid. I was about to add that to mine when I discovered the wire issue. This does lead to an easy test - just short the "low current" solenoid output and see of the starter solenoid trips. Should electronics that are design for 12v be able to function at 14v? I would think so. Certainly anything that runs with an alternator active has to handle 15 Volts, or even a bit more. However, if your devices are unregulated that could put out a lot more - 18 Volts or more. Still, I don't wee where the problem might be so I'll be very interested in hearing abotu the eventual solution. |
trouble starting engine when solar panels are working
"tom" wrote in message ... Remember it works find unless the voltage is driven to 14v. Current limit protection is kicking in because of overvoltage. It's the setting and the way your charging circuit is connected. What brand and model chargers/switches/regulators do you use? |
trouble starting engine when solar panels are working
On May 6, 10:19 am, "Owen Kellog" wrote:
"tom" wrote in message ... Remember it works find unless the voltage is driven to 14v. Current limit protection is kicking in because of overvoltage. It's the setting and the way your charging circuit is connected. What brand and model chargers/switches/regulators do you use? The solar controller is a ProStar PS-15, its connected to the inputs to the inverter which is connected to the battery bank via very large cables. The prostar is right next to the inverter. The inverter is a Freedom 20 and it not on when the problem occurs and the alternator controller is a ARS-4 (balmar) which has a 45 second delay before it kicks in. The prostar has PWM regulation, and is connected to 4 panels with 186 total wattage. It's in PWM mode when the problem occurs. Tom |
trouble starting engine when solar panels are working
"Gregory Hall" wrote in message ... One would think somebody who had nothing to say would shut the f*ck up but NOOOOOOOOOO! And yet it hasn't stopped you either, idiot. |
trouble starting engine when solar panels are working
Looks like the solar controller sees to much of a current draw and shuts
down. This shutting down affects the whole system. http://support.morningstarcorp.com/ Put the solar on the house battery only, not the starter battery. Isolate the house from the starter battery. |
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