On Thu, 10 Apr 2008 08:37:56 -0500, cavelamb himself
wrote:

Bruce in Bangkok wrote:

On Thu, 10 Apr 2008 04:16:25 -0400, "Roger Long"
wrote:


"Lew Hodgett" wrote

BTW, replace the copper washers on any fuel banjo fittings you break open.

This is a point I've wondered about. Before becoming the owner of a boat
diesel, I'd always heard that copper washers are never reused. The Banjo
fittings are part of the fuel bleed points on me engine so have been cracked
open many times and I put all the old washers back. Everything seemed tight
against fuel pump pressure of approximately 7 psi.

This is all upstream of the injection pump however. Downstream, I expect it
to be a different story with the much higher pressures. More info from and
details of annealing appreciated.

SNIP

I really hate the Japanese Banjo fittings and on my present boat have
re tapped all the holes and converted to AN fittings.

Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct email address for reply)


Soft copper deforms easily to seal minor gaps.
That part is pretty well known.

But copper work hardens very quickly.
Once hardened, it can crack and break easily.

I believe copper is annealed the same temps as aluminum.
Soot the surface with a really rich acetylene flame,
then heat with a neutral flame until clean.

Sooting the copper isn't necessary. Just heat it red hot (it will get
red) and chuck it in a bucket of water. The water doesn't make it get
soft, the heat does that, Just cools it faster so you don't burn your
fingers.

Personally, I use a propane torch to anneal with because a neutral
o-a flame is just too hot and can melt small parts before you can
stop.

I'm guessing it's simpler, cheaper and safer to just replace the
little boogers when they get to the point of no return.


AND

Bruce, thanks for the banjo tip.
I'll for sure keep that one in mind.


Richard

Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct email address for reply)

Injectors in 2QM and 3QM engines are easy to remove ... just two bolts
on the injector hold down (just be sure to 'vacuum' the injector bore
with a strong vacuum to prevent 'crap' from falling into the
combustion chamber before you pull the injector out).

The injectors are also easy to send to an injector shop to be checked
or rebuilt.
"Injector shops" are common in metro areas .... as virtually all
automobiles and trucks nowadays have injectors.

The 2QM and 3QM engines are not all that sensitive to air in their
fuel lines, especially air in the lines downstream of the injector
pump; just bleed out as best you can ... and the engine will usually
start right up.

On Apr 10, 10:34 pm, RichH wrote:
Injectors in 2QM and 3QM engines are easy to remove ... just two bolts
on the injector hold down (just be sure to 'vacuum' the injector bore
with a strong vacuum to prevent 'crap' from falling into the
combustion chamber before you pull the injector out).

The injectors are also easy to send to an injector shop to be checked
or rebuilt.
"Injector shops" are common in metro areas .... as virtually all
automobiles and trucks nowadays have injectors.

The 2QM and 3QM engines are not all that sensitive to air in their
fuel lines, especially air in the lines downstream of the injector
pump; just bleed out as best you can ... and the engine will usually
start right up.

I've done it and it is absolutely trivial. I didnt even replace the
copper seals but simply re-used them. In fact, I removed the
injectors several times (on the mistaken notion they had a problem)
and always re-used the copper seals, no problems at all. My copper
seals always came out with no problems. The banjo unions have never
been a problem even whn I lost the copper seal and cut one from an
aluminum beer can; it worked well for months till I properly replaced
it. Bleeding is also trivial. I am not a mechanic but I am not
afraid to try anything.