Cetol folks,

I have teak rub strakes that I have oiled and/or just let go with occasional cleaning in previous
years. This year I'm considering coatings for them as they seem to get ugly quite quickly. The
rest
of my exterior brightwork is varnished, however, I have not varnished the rub strakes as they have
occasionally been "called to duty" which would have damaged the build-up layers and
enabled water
intrusion. My question is, would I have the same problem with Cetol coatings from mior bumps or
abrasions against the rub strakes? In other words, does Cetol penetrate the wood like oil or a
stain, or do layers of it create a solid skin, like varnish, which is more easily damaged?

many thanks,

Craig
PSC Dana 24

My question is, would I have the same problem with Cetol coatings from mior
bumps or
abrasions against the rub strakes? In other words, does Cetol penetrate the
wood like oil or a
stain, or do layers of it create a solid skin, like varnish, which is more
easily damaged?


The answer is yes and no... Seriously, Cetol does penetrate the wood
somewhat, but not as much as stain, or as little as varnish. It is also more
flexible and will not crack as easily as varnish. Cetol is also much easier to
repair if you damage it: most of the time all you need to is light sanding and
fairing and apply a couple of new coats. So the answer to your question, IMHO,
is that while Cetol would serve you better than varnish, it is not perfect for
the application you have in mind. It would still be my choice since Cetol is
easier to apply and repair, but note that removing it (if you need to) is just
about the same as removing varnish.

We have a similar situation, but we have a strip of stainless on the
outside of the strake. The stainless take all the hits while the
strake itself stays pretty. It is finished with Cetol Lite and Cetol
Clear.

Doug
s/v Callista

"CCarter" wrote in message
...

Cetol folks,

I have teak rub strakes that I have oiled and/or just let go with
occasional cleaning in previous
years. This year I'm considering coatings for them as they seem to get
ugly quite quickly. The
rest
of my exterior brightwork is varnished, however, I have not varnished the
rub strakes as they have
occasionally been "called to duty" which would have damaged the build-up
layers and
enabled water
intrusion. My question is, would I have the same problem with Cetol
coatings from mior bumps or
abrasions against the rub strakes? In other words, does Cetol penetrate
the wood like oil or a
stain, or do layers of it create a solid skin, like varnish, which is more
easily damaged?

many thanks,

Craig
PSC Dana 24

Id leave the strakes bare, occasionally strip them with TSP (trisodium
phosphate) and then bleach with oxalic acid ...... then occasionally
I'd apply a 'resinated' teak oil. If you cant find such, then buy a
tung oil based teak oil and mix in 25% oil based varnish. Apply 3
heavy coats, just slop on with a foam brush.

Will last for a season or two, easy to resto scrub with TSP to
lift/remove the old oil and then wipe on new.

Subject: Question for Cetol users
From: Rich Hampel

Id leave the strakes bare, occasionally strip them with TSP (trisodium
phosphate) and then bleach with oxalic acid ...... then occasionally
I'd apply a 'resinated' teak oil. If you cant find such, then buy a
tung oil based teak oil and mix in 25% oil based varnish. Apply 3
heavy coats, just slop on with a foam brush.

Will last for a season or two,

Maybe up north. :-)

easy to resto scrub with TSP to
lift/remove the old oil and then wipe on new.


Capt. Bill

Subject: Question for Cetol users
From: Rich Hampel

Id leave the strakes bare, occasionally strip them with TSP (trisodium
phosphate) and then bleach with oxalic acid ...... then occasionally
I'd apply a 'resinated' teak oil. If you cant find such, then buy a
tung oil based teak oil and mix in 25% oil based varnish. Apply 3
heavy coats, just slop on with a foam brush.

Will last for a season or two,

Maybe up north. :-)

easy to resto scrub with TSP to
lift/remove the old oil and then wipe on new.


Capt. Bill

My question is, would I have the same problem with Cetol coatings from mior
bumps or
abrasions against the rub strakes? In other words, does Cetol penetrate the
wood like oil or a
stain, or do layers of it create a solid skin, like varnish, which is more
easily damaged?


The answer is yes and no... Seriously, Cetol does penetrate the wood
somewhat, but not as much as stain, or as little as varnish. It is also more
flexible and will not crack as easily as varnish. Cetol is also much easier to
repair if you damage it: most of the time all you need to is light sanding and
fairing and apply a couple of new coats. So the answer to your question, IMHO,
is that while Cetol would serve you better than varnish, it is not perfect for
the application you have in mind. It would still be my choice since Cetol is
easier to apply and repair, but note that removing it (if you need to) is just
about the same as removing varnish.

We have a similar situation, but we have a strip of stainless on the
outside of the strake. The stainless take all the hits while the
strake itself stays pretty. It is finished with Cetol Lite and Cetol
Clear.

Doug
s/v Callista

"CCarter" wrote in message
...

Cetol folks,

I have teak rub strakes that I have oiled and/or just let go with
occasional cleaning in previous
years. This year I'm considering coatings for them as they seem to get
ugly quite quickly. The
rest
of my exterior brightwork is varnished, however, I have not varnished the
rub strakes as they have
occasionally been "called to duty" which would have damaged the build-up
layers and
enabled water
intrusion. My question is, would I have the same problem with Cetol
coatings from mior bumps or
abrasions against the rub strakes? In other words, does Cetol penetrate
the wood like oil or a
stain, or do layers of it create a solid skin, like varnish, which is more
easily damaged?

many thanks,

Craig
PSC Dana 24

Id leave the strakes bare, occasionally strip them with TSP (trisodium
phosphate) and then bleach with oxalic acid ...... then occasionally
I'd apply a 'resinated' teak oil. If you cant find such, then buy a
tung oil based teak oil and mix in 25% oil based varnish. Apply 3
heavy coats, just slop on with a foam brush.

Will last for a season or two, easy to resto scrub with TSP to
lift/remove the old oil and then wipe on new.