Engine oil check
 

It's been a while since I checked the condition of the engine oil on my
Westerbeke 13... last time was at purchase.. about 18 mos. ago.

An old oil sample was sent off for analysis as a condition of the purchase,
and nothing out of ordinary was found, but I changed the oil anyway.

I'm thinking that it's that time again, and I was going to send away to have
a sample tested when I ran across this article. It's a heck of lot less
expensive to test it this way vs. the $45 the last time for a one-time test.

Has anyone done this? It seems to be fairly new.

http://www.marinelink.com/Story/Engi...st-210344.html

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Engine oil check
 

"Ernie Harrod" wrote in message
...
crap removed


You are one sick puppy. Do you get a thrill out of stalking people? You
clearly know nothing about boats or engines, but you know a heck of a lot
about stalking. **** off.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Engine oil check
 

"Capt. JG" wrote in
:

You are one sick puppy. Do you get a thrill out of stalking people?
You clearly know nothing about boats or engines, but you know a heck
of a lot about stalking. **** off.



Cap'n J, is it running good?

MOST important is what happens to the LEVEL on the dipstick...does it drop
a little?

Diesel engines USE oil, some more than others. Anyone you know who has a
diesel that doesn't use oil (they usually brag about it), either has water
intrusion, which is easy to spot, or fuel intrusion past the rings, which
isn't until it's bad.

Oil analysis is used to EXTEND oil change intervals on engines that use a
LOT of oil, big diesels using gallons and gallons. As yours is not
anywhere near this category and an oil change is so cheap, screw all that
and just change the oil every hundred hours OR SIX MONTHS, anyway. It
doesn't break down in a hundred hours or 6 months sitting there full of
fuel and acids and water so just changing it is fine....UNLESS THE LEVEL
RISES!..which is BAD...

They crank fine at 25,000 hours if you do this...(c;

Engine oil check
 

"Capt. JG" wrote in message
...
It's been a while since I checked the condition of the engine oil on my
Westerbeke 13... last time was at purchase.. about 18 mos. ago.

An old oil sample was sent off for analysis as a condition of the
purchase, and nothing out of ordinary was found, but I changed the oil
anyway.

I'm thinking that it's that time again, and I was going to send away to
have a sample tested when I ran across this article. It's a heck of lot
less expensive to test it this way vs. the $45 the last time for a
one-time test.

Has anyone done this? It seems to be fairly new.

http://www.marinelink.com/Story/Engi...st-210344.html

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

The oil analysis that we used to do looks at a lot more than the fluid or
chemical contaminants that the kit you reference does.

Typically, a report would consider various metal traces found in the oil and
suggest possible sources.

The full lab analysis gave great comfort.

In my opinion (and for my engine and conditions, your mileage may vary) 18
months is too long to leave oil in an engine. Oil is relatively cheap and
easy to change compared to pistons, valve lifters, etc. I have elected to
change ours twice a season. Probably overkill but provides a lot of peace
of mind.

Engine oil check
 

"Larry" wrote in message
...
"Capt. JG" wrote in
:

Cap'n J, is it running good?

MOST important is what happens to the LEVEL on the dipstick...does it drop
a little?

Diesel engines USE oil, some more than others. Anyone you know who has a
diesel that doesn't use oil (they usually brag about it), either has water
intrusion, which is easy to spot, or fuel intrusion past the rings, which
isn't until it's bad.

Oil analysis is used to EXTEND oil change intervals on engines that use a
LOT of oil, big diesels using gallons and gallons. As yours is not
anywhere near this category and an oil change is so cheap, screw all that
and just change the oil every hundred hours OR SIX MONTHS, anyway. It
doesn't break down in a hundred hours or 6 months sitting there full of
fuel and acids and water so just changing it is fine....UNLESS THE LEVEL
RISES!..which is BAD...

They crank fine at 25,000 hours if you do this...(c;

Actually, I haven't had to add a drop since the oil change. I feel the oil
every time I check it, doesn't feel gritty.

I was thinking, perhaps wrongly, that an analysis would tell me if there was
something going on that wouldn't be obvious by a drop in oil or in a burnt
aroma, or stuff in it.

I doubt I've run it 100 hours in 18 months... probably under 50.

Maybe I'm trying to fix something that isn't broke. :-}


--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Engine oil check
 

"Capt. JG" wrote in message
...
It's been a while since I checked the condition of the engine oil on my
Westerbeke 13... last time was at purchase.. about 18 mos. ago.

An old oil sample was sent off for analysis as a condition of the
purchase, and nothing out of ordinary was found, but I changed the oil
anyway.

I'm thinking that it's that time again, and I was going to send away to
have a sample tested when I ran across this article. It's a heck of lot
less expensive to test it this way vs. the $45 the last time for a
one-time test.

Has anyone done this? It seems to be fairly new.

http://www.marinelink.com/Story/Engi...st-210344.html

That test shows only contaminants and I see they include carbon.
Carbon will always be present in the sump oil of a diesel to some degree so
this test is usually going to show it up..
.. The main reason for regular oil changes is that modern oils contain
additives that hold carbon particles in a colloidal
suspension,which is why the oil in a diesel turns black.
If you do not change the oil at specified intervals the additives become
exhausted and the carbon load being held in the oil starts to fall out of
suspension and cook itself onto the pistons, rings and cylinder walls and
form sludge in the sump.
So prolonging the period between oil changes meansyou save a bit on oil
costs and your maintanance bills are much higher.
How easy is it to remove cylinder heads and/or draw pistons from the engine
in your boat?
I change my oil at the end of every season for this reason regardless of
hours run and always well before the engine makers recommended hours.
It pays off in the long run. My engine never has used oil in it during the
cold winter,when acids,water or anything else can condense and start
corrosion
or other problems.

Engine oil check
 

On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 04:43:04 +0000, Larry wrote:

"Capt. JG" wrote in
:

You are one sick puppy. Do you get a thrill out of stalking people?
You clearly know nothing about boats or engines, but you know a heck
of a lot about stalking. **** off.



Cap'n J, is it running good?

MOST important is what happens to the LEVEL on the dipstick...does it drop
a little?

Diesel engines USE oil, some more than others. Anyone you know who has a
diesel that doesn't use oil (they usually brag about it), either has water
intrusion, which is easy to spot, or fuel intrusion past the rings, which
isn't until it's bad.

Oil analysis is used to EXTEND oil change intervals on engines that use a
LOT of oil, big diesels using gallons and gallons. As yours is not
anywhere near this category and an oil change is so cheap, screw all that
and just change the oil every hundred hours OR SIX MONTHS, anyway. It
doesn't break down in a hundred hours or 6 months sitting there full of
fuel and acids and water so just changing it is fine....UNLESS THE LEVEL
RISES!..which is BAD...

They crank fine at 25,000 hours if you do this...(c;

It can also be used to find out what is wearing out. If you perform
periodic oil analysis and keep a record you can see the bearings and
rings wearing out. Whether this is of interest on a pleasure boat is
debatable (it is on airplanes) so the advise to change the oil and
filters every X hours probably results in lower costs and very
possibly longer engine life.

Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct email address for reply)

Engine oil check
 

"Capt. JG" wrote in
:

Actually, I haven't had to add a drop since the oil change. I feel the
oil every time I check it, doesn't feel gritty.


Because the fuel is a thin oil, you won't feel much difference until it's
really contaminated with fuel. The lamp black color of it two minutes
after you crank on new oil is the carbon blowby all diesels at these
tremendous pressures have. It's so finely ground up, it doesn't feel
gritty, either. Gritty would be like bearing grindings and very rare,
indeed.

I was thinking, perhaps wrongly, that an analysis would tell me if
there was something going on that wouldn't be obvious by a drop in oil
or in a burnt aroma, or stuff in it.

It will if something's grinding apart or coolant is leaking in, another
item that causes the level to rise...head gaskets/cracked block..yecch,
ugly thoughts on Sunday morning.


I doubt I've run it 100 hours in 18 months... probably under 50.

Ok, so what you need to do is to start changing oil at least every 4-6
months. A chemical change takes place between oil and the contaminants
the engine introduces into it when running. These conttaminants break
the oil down, hence the month limit on used oil life. Get the oil change
gadget that makes it easiest on you and do it yourself. Don't reuse the
filter. It'll run for decades, or until the rubber parts fail. Change
the water pump impeller yearly. That's a pain but doable.


Maybe I'm trying to fix something that isn't broke. :-}

Everybody does that. Too much free worrying time influenced by
libations...(c;)

Engine oil check
 

Bruce in Bangkok wrote in
:

Whether this is of interest on a pleasure boat is
debatable (it is on airplanes) so the advise to change the oil and
filters every X hours probably results in lower costs and very
possibly longer engine life.


At 50 hours in a year, he needs time interval changes and worrying over
zinc anodes inside the engine being eaten. He'll never wear it out...

Engine oil check
 

"Larry" wrote in message
...
"Capt. JG" wrote in
:

Actually, I haven't had to add a drop since the oil change. I feel the
oil every time I check it, doesn't feel gritty.


Because the fuel is a thin oil, you won't feel much difference until it's
really contaminated with fuel. The lamp black color of it two minutes
after you crank on new oil is the carbon blowby all diesels at these
tremendous pressures have. It's so finely ground up, it doesn't feel
gritty, either. Gritty would be like bearing grindings and very rare,
indeed.

I was thinking, perhaps wrongly, that an analysis would tell me if
there was something going on that wouldn't be obvious by a drop in oil
or in a burnt aroma, or stuff in it.

It will if something's grinding apart or coolant is leaking in, another
item that causes the level to rise...head gaskets/cracked block..yecch,
ugly thoughts on Sunday morning.

Very. Thanks! LOL


I doubt I've run it 100 hours in 18 months... probably under 50.

Ok, so what you need to do is to start changing oil at least every 4-6
months. A chemical change takes place between oil and the contaminants
the engine introduces into it when running. These conttaminants break
the oil down, hence the month limit on used oil life. Get the oil change
gadget that makes it easiest on you and do it yourself. Don't reuse the
filter. It'll run for decades, or until the rubber parts fail. Change
the water pump impeller yearly. That's a pain but doable.

I didn't mean to imply that it just sits... I do start it and run it for
10-15 minutes, either because I haven't run it in a while or because I'm
going out or coming in. Does that make a difference? I don't mind changing
it myself. The hardest part of doing anything with the engine is actually
checking the oil. The dipstick is in on the starboard side about mid-engine,
but the engine is offset in the bay, with the forward part inset to
starboard. So, basically, I have to reach around it to get at the stick,
which I can't see directly.


Maybe I'm trying to fix something that isn't broke. :-}

Everybody does that. Too much free worrying time influenced by
libations...(c;)

Heh..

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Engine oil check
 

"Larry" wrote in message
...
Bruce in Bangkok wrote in
:

Whether this is of interest on a pleasure boat is
debatable (it is on airplanes) so the advise to change the oil and
filters every X hours probably results in lower costs and very
possibly longer engine life.


At 50 hours in a year, he needs time interval changes and worrying over
zinc anodes inside the engine being eaten. He'll never wear it out...



From your typing to God's ear...

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Engine oil check
 

"Faire dinkum" wrote in message
...

"Capt. JG" wrote in message
...
It's been a while since I checked the condition of the engine oil on my
Westerbeke 13... last time was at purchase.. about 18 mos. ago.

An old oil sample was sent off for analysis as a condition of the
purchase, and nothing out of ordinary was found, but I changed the oil
anyway.

I'm thinking that it's that time again, and I was going to send away to
have a sample tested when I ran across this article. It's a heck of lot
less expensive to test it this way vs. the $45 the last time for a
one-time test.

Has anyone done this? It seems to be fairly new.

http://www.marinelink.com/Story/Engi...st-210344.html

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

The oil analysis that we used to do looks at a lot more than the fluid or
chemical contaminants that the kit you reference does.

Typically, a report would consider various metal traces found in the oil
and suggest possible sources.

The full lab analysis gave great comfort.

In my opinion (and for my engine and conditions, your mileage may vary) 18
months is too long to leave oil in an engine. Oil is relatively cheap and
easy to change compared to pistons, valve lifters, etc. I have elected to
change ours twice a season. Probably overkill but provides a lot of peace
of mind.



I like Larry's suggestion of every six months. That's not a big deal. In the
spring and then at the end of the sailing season would be about right.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Engine oil check
 

"Edgar" wrote in message
...

"Capt. JG" wrote in message
...
It's been a while since I checked the condition of the engine oil on my
Westerbeke 13... last time was at purchase.. about 18 mos. ago.

An old oil sample was sent off for analysis as a condition of the
purchase, and nothing out of ordinary was found, but I changed the oil
anyway.

I'm thinking that it's that time again, and I was going to send away to
have a sample tested when I ran across this article. It's a heck of lot
less expensive to test it this way vs. the $45 the last time for a
one-time test.

Has anyone done this? It seems to be fairly new.

http://www.marinelink.com/Story/Engi...st-210344.html

That test shows only contaminants and I see they include carbon.
Carbon will always be present in the sump oil of a diesel to some degree
so
this test is usually going to show it up..
. The main reason for regular oil changes is that modern oils contain
additives that hold carbon particles in a colloidal
suspension,which is why the oil in a diesel turns black.
If you do not change the oil at specified intervals the additives become
exhausted and the carbon load being held in the oil starts to fall out of
suspension and cook itself onto the pistons, rings and cylinder walls and
form sludge in the sump.
So prolonging the period between oil changes meansyou save a bit on oil
costs and your maintanance bills are much higher.
How easy is it to remove cylinder heads and/or draw pistons from the
engine in your boat?

No idea... not sure I have the tools or expertise to try.

I change my oil at the end of every season for this reason regardless of
hours run and always well before the engine makers recommended hours.
It pays off in the long run. My engine never has used oil in it during the
cold winter,when acids,water or anything else can condense and start
corrosion
or other problems.

Fortunately, mine hasn't required a drop so far.




--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Engine oil check
 

"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
I abused my engine the same way for the first two seasons because I heard
(probably here) that you just change the oil in a sailboat engine at the
beginning and end of each season. I felt rather foolish as a former flying
club maintenance officer who used to track operating hours and maintenance
intervals compulsively. We did oil analysis and it is all about trends.
It won't tell you much unless you either graph the numbers or can visualize
graphs in your head. It is changes from the norm you are looking for and
you need the experienced advice from the analysis company unless you know a
lot more about engines than you appear to or even than I do now after
reviewing the reports for nearly a decade.

I woke up when I noticed that engine manual says to change the oil every
50 hours. Same interval as my old airplane BTW which makes sense because
both are hard working engines. High pressures in the diesel and lots of
blow by in the airplane due to being air cooled. Gallon per hour average
consumption in cruise, 20 gallon tank, the oil should be changed after
every 2 1/2 fill ups if you use most of the fuel before going to the fuel
dock as I do. I round it to three fuelings to account for convienience
and to account for idling and slow legs in the harbor.

Since even a small amount of operation puts some acids into the oil, it
should be changed every 2 - 3 months even if you are not motoring that
much. If you are a tank a seasons sailor, I would still change mid season.
Oil is cheap, even at today's prices, and engines are expensive. If you
are using that little fuel, you may also not be operating enough to boil
some of the water and acids out of the oil.

In reference to the other long thread about filling tanks, I run my tanks
down as close to empty as possible so that I use up as much of the old
fuel as possible and have the maximum proportion of fresh fuel in the tank
after filling. That's a more common recommendation among the mechanics
and engine people I've talked to around here. I never heard of topping
off to avoid water in the fuel in boats until I read it here. Buying near
tank fulls of fuel makes it easy to keep track of oil changes (no engine
hour meter on my little engine). I could buy and add on but there's that
complexity thing:)

--
Roger Long

Roger, I could easily change it every few months... it's not hard at all.
Besides, I have plenty of oil-absorbant pads. The marina gives them away for
free.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Engine oil check
 

TMI


"Capt. JG" wrote in message
...

Besides, I have plenty of absorbant pads. The ex gives them away for free.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Engine oil check
 

In article ,
"Edgar" wrote:

That test shows only contaminants and I see they include carbon.
Carbon will always be present in the sump oil of a diesel to some degree so
this test is usually going to show it up..

Just a NOTE here.... SOME OEM's put trace elements in their Bearing
Compositions, so as to Identify each individual Bearing in an engine,
should it begin to fail. By doing a Mass Spectrum analysis on the
used Oil, one can identify any bearing that is shedding material in
excessive quantities. CAT does this and REQUIRES Oil analysis be done
if the engine is on one of their Maintainance Agreements.

--
Bruce in alaska
add path after fast to reply

Engine oil check
 

"Bruce in alaska" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Edgar" wrote:

That test shows only contaminants and I see they include carbon.
Carbon will always be present in the sump oil of a diesel to some degree
so
this test is usually going to show it up..

Just a NOTE here.... SOME OEM's put trace elements in their Bearing
Compositions, so as to Identify each individual Bearing in an engine,
should it begin to fail. By doing a Mass Spectrum analysis on the
used Oil, one can identify any bearing that is shedding material in
excessive quantities. CAT does this and REQUIRES Oil analysis be done
if the engine is on one of their Maintainance Agreements.

--
Bruce in alaska
add path after fast to reply


I've got one in the garage... LOL

As a side note, way back in 1982, I had an opportunity to buy a desktop
electron microscope for under $1000. I should have done it.


--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Engine oil check
 

"Capt. JG" wrote in
:

I didn't mean to imply that it just sits... I do start it and run it
for 10-15 minutes, either because I haven't run it in a while or
because I'm going out or coming in. Does that make a difference? I
don't mind changing it myself. The hardest part of doing anything with
the engine is actually checking the oil. The dipstick is in on the
starboard side about mid-engine, but the engine is offset in the bay,
with the forward part inset to starboard. So, basically, I have to
reach around it to get at the stick, which I can't see directly.



One of the very important things you can do for it is to take it out and
toss caution to the wind and run the hell out of it for 10 miles. 15
minutes isn't long enough to boil the water out of the crankcase. You need
to run it hard and hot for that, raising the oil temp above 212 to boil off
any water that may have accumulated, even from just condensation, in the
crankcase. Exhaust water cooling gets back through the open exhaust
valves, condenses in the cold block and always ends up in the
crankcase....under the oil where the pickup tube sucks it into the oil
pump, of course. It's not a serious problem, but is so easy to avoid by
simply running the engine for further than just far enough away from the
dock to get the sails filled. Run her out on the engine, not at idle, let
her breathe at cruising speed...way up there....above 2000 RPM. She won't
explode.

If you haven't run her hard in a long time, set her on 2500 RPM and let her
run an hour. It's really good for it.

......and, no matter what you may have heard, it's not mortal sin!...(c;

Engine oil check
 

"Capt. JG" wrote in news:13uvkpu69qtll41
@corp.supernews.com:

end of the sailing season

End of the sailing season?? Huh??

Sailing season never ends....does it??

How silly.....

SAIL SOUTH!! SOUTH!!

We'll leave the dock lights on for ya....

New Years day, Charleston Harbor, RACE DAY!!

End of the sailing season....yecch.

Engine oil check
 

"Capt. JG" wrote in
:

Roger, I could easily change it every few months... it's not hard at
all. Besides, I have plenty of oil-absorbant pads. The marina gives
them away for free.



$60 at Waste Marine:
http://tinyurl.com/3ak42o

Stick tube down dipstick hole to the bottom and simply suck it out into the
5 quart vacuum chamber. Never spills a drop. Every time you put 20
gallons of gas in that old rusty truck, add half a quart of it to the gas
tank....self disposal....top oil...(c;

Engine oil check
 

"Larry" wrote in message
...
"Capt. JG" wrote in
:

I didn't mean to imply that it just sits... I do start it and run it
for 10-15 minutes, either because I haven't run it in a while or
because I'm going out or coming in. Does that make a difference? I
don't mind changing it myself. The hardest part of doing anything with
the engine is actually checking the oil. The dipstick is in on the
starboard side about mid-engine, but the engine is offset in the bay,
with the forward part inset to starboard. So, basically, I have to
reach around it to get at the stick, which I can't see directly.



One of the very important things you can do for it is to take it out and
toss caution to the wind and run the hell out of it for 10 miles. 15
minutes isn't long enough to boil the water out of the crankcase. You
need
to run it hard and hot for that, raising the oil temp above 212 to boil
off
any water that may have accumulated, even from just condensation, in the
crankcase. Exhaust water cooling gets back through the open exhaust
valves, condenses in the cold block and always ends up in the
crankcase....under the oil where the pickup tube sucks it into the oil
pump, of course. It's not a serious problem, but is so easy to avoid by
simply running the engine for further than just far enough away from the
dock to get the sails filled. Run her out on the engine, not at idle, let
her breathe at cruising speed...way up there....above 2000 RPM. She won't
explode.

If you haven't run her hard in a long time, set her on 2500 RPM and let
her
run an hour. It's really good for it.

.....and, no matter what you may have heard, it's not mortal sin!...(c;



A couple of things... the engine temp never seems to get over 200 no matter
how long I run it nor how many Rs. Hull speed rpm is about 3200 or so...
can't remember exactly, definitely over 2500. No smoke out the back, so I
know I'm not doing harm. I do this if I happen to be fighting the current at
some point.


--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Engine oil check
 

"Larry" wrote in message
...
"Capt. JG" wrote in news:13uvkpu69qtll41
@corp.supernews.com:

end of the sailing season

End of the sailing season?? Huh??

Sailing season never ends....does it??

How silly.....

SAIL SOUTH!! SOUTH!!

We'll leave the dock lights on for ya....

New Years day, Charleston Harbor, RACE DAY!!

End of the sailing season....yecch.



Well, maybe I should have said end of the primary season... typically
December, and I sail only occasionally in Jan/Feb, although this year
several times.


--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Engine oil check
 

On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 15:24:58 +0000, Larry wrote:

Ok, so what you need to do is to start changing oil at least every 4-6
months.

Once a year is plenty on a small engine that doesn't get run very
much.

Engine oil check
 

"Capt. JG" wrote in news:13v078lr52civd6
@corp.supernews.com:

I do this if I happen to be fighting the current at
some point.



I usually do it in panic as the tide we underestimated it dragging us
headlong into the main dock past the finger pier. It doesn't "do" much to
stop the monster caught in the current, but the noise and black smoke of a
Perkins 4-108 pouring out the back makes the assembled amateur dockhands
grab her lines on the cleats faster.....without all the screaming and
yelling at each other...(c;

You've all seen it or done it.....Come on.....no denials!

.......damned LIARS.....(c;

The whole Ashley River basin up 17 miles races right past our little finger
pier every 6 hours....one way or another, of course. Dredging is
unnecessary. Even the coffee grounds are no match.

......we call it "Self Flushing"....

The coolant temperature isn't what's important. The CRANKCASE temperature
is much higher, the oil cooling the bottom of the pistons splashing around
in there. It's easily over 212F in the crankcase.....

Engine oil check
 

"Capt. JG" wrote in news:13v07b23s0ice34
@corp.supernews.com:

Well, maybe I should have said end of the primary season... typically
December, and I sail only occasionally in Jan/Feb, although this year
several times.



Global Warming is only a downside if you're depending on government grant
money to study it, ad nauseum.

Engine oil check
 

Wayne.B wrote in
:

Once a year is plenty on a small engine that doesn't get run very
much.




http://www.searchforparts.com/import...9000_miles.php
Unless you're an Amsoil dealer, whos company only has REBOTTLING plants,
not any kind of oil refinery or synthetic oil manufacturing complex.....

http://www.yanmarmarine.com/
click Questions and Answers
on the left panel is maintenance videos.

Ignoring that he didn't TIGHTEN the "radiator cap" when he told you to, I
stand corrected by Yanmar. Oil change interval is 250 hours or once a
year, now.

I also think the video violates the Magnusson-Moss Warranty Protection Act
(15USC50 section 2300) in that he specifically tells you to use ONLY Yanmar
BRANDED impeller, oil filters, air cleaner in this video. According to
FEDERAL LAW, Magnusson-Moss REQUIRES Yanmar to provide ANY part they tell
you MUST be a Yanmar Branded part.....FREE for the entire life of the
engine, not just to the end of the warranty. He's more vague about fluids,
telling you to use Yanmar or "approved" oils, transmission fluid,
coolant....

So, I guess, once a year is now OK.....at least for those selling engines.

Engine oil check
 

"Larry" wrote in message
...
"Capt. JG" wrote in news:13v078lr52civd6
@corp.supernews.com:

I do this if I happen to be fighting the current at
some point.



I usually do it in panic as the tide we underestimated it dragging us
headlong into the main dock past the finger pier. It doesn't "do" much to
stop the monster caught in the current, but the noise and black smoke of a
Perkins 4-108 pouring out the back makes the assembled amateur dockhands
grab her lines on the cleats faster.....without all the screaming and
yelling at each other...(c;

You've all seen it or done it.....Come on.....no denials!

......damned LIARS.....(c;

The whole Ashley River basin up 17 miles races right past our little
finger
pier every 6 hours....one way or another, of course. Dredging is
unnecessary. Even the coffee grounds are no match.

.....we call it "Self Flushing"....

The coolant temperature isn't what's important. The CRANKCASE temperature
is much higher, the oil cooling the bottom of the pistons splashing around
in there. It's easily over 212F in the crankcase.....



Do all Perkins 4-108s smoke like that? I almost bought a boat that did that,
but it smoked at all rpms, so I passed.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Engine oil check
 

"Larry" wrote in message
...
"Capt. JG" wrote in news:13v07b23s0ice34
@corp.supernews.com:

Well, maybe I should have said end of the primary season... typically
December, and I sail only occasionally in Jan/Feb, although this year
several times.



Global Warming is only a downside if you're depending on government grant
money to study it, ad nauseum.



I'm in favor of global warming wrt to sailing, but that's it.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Engine oil check
 

Jill M wrote:
TMI


"Capt. JG" wrote in message
...

Besides, I have plenty of absorbant pads. The ex gives them away for
free.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

At the risk of being shot down, I would say that it's cheaper to change the
oil than send it away for testing. With my BMW only doing 3500 miles per
year due to UK gas prices, I simply change the oil every 6 months regardless
of manufacturer's recommendations. Doesn't the same apply to boats?


Dennis.

Engine oil check
 

On Mon, 31 Mar 2008 09:06:08 GMT, "Dennis Pogson"
wrote:

Jill M wrote:
TMI


"Capt. JG" wrote in message
...

Besides, I have plenty of absorbant pads. The ex gives them away for
free.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

At the risk of being shot down, I would say that it's cheaper to change the
oil than send it away for testing. With my BMW only doing 3500 miles per
year due to UK gas prices, I simply change the oil every 6 months regardless
of manufacturer's recommendations. Doesn't the same apply to boats?


Dennis.


Of course it does and all the rationalizing in the world doesn't
change anything. Oil is cheap and down time and repairs are expensive.
When I was working construction jobs in the jungle we changed oil
weekly on the earth moving equipment working 24/7 and monthly on
cranes and other less used equipment. Our re-supply time was about a
month and down time was far more costly then a few gallons of oil and
a couple of filters.

Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct email address for reply)

Engine oil check
 

On Mon, 31 Mar 2008 07:26:58 -0400, "Roger Long"
wrote:

I guess beginning and end of season is fine for most folks. My fuel bill
last year was $420 so, roughly 120 gallons, 120 hours. Even someone who
motors as much as I do should be fine changing just spring and fall.

I would argue that if you change the oil at end of season, changing it
again in the spring is a total waste. The oil does not go bad over
the winter and any small amount of moisture picked up over the winter
months will evaporate after a short time running the engine. If you
really motor a lot, over 200 hours per season, changing it once in
mid-summer would be appropriate.

Engine oil check
 

"Ernie Harrod" wrote in message
...
That test kit is known as a blotter type test. It measures the
transverse absorption spectra of the fluid which depends on such
things as viscosity, surface tension and ion affinity. It does not do
a chemical analysis but is better than no analysis at all. You can
make the kit yourself by simply using blotter paper and putting a drop
of hot oil on it. You can get blotter paper at your local art supply
store for much less than that kit. If fact, one sheet of blotter paper
will allow you to do about 50-100 tests for less than $5. Why not just
change the oil twice a season? It wouldn't cost as much as the test
and you would be looking at relatively clean oil to inspect at the
change. Synthetic oil is far superior to either the parafin or asphalt
based conventional viscuous amolients.

This advice is all spot on!

Change the oil twice a year.

Use 100% synthetic oil.

Art blotter paper is what is used in the test, it is far cheaper.

Three things to add:

View the blotter under a microscope (not under your tongue).

Take pH readings of the oil.

Record the data and view trends.


Millions of car and truck engines run trillions of miles with minimal
maintenance. So let's go overboard on checking a boat engine that never goes
more than a mile or two from shore. Don't forget that frequent magnafluxing
of the block helps too.

A class in engine repair may be more helpful for Jon.

Engine oil check
 

"Capt. JG" wrote in message
...
"Ernie Harrod" wrote in message
...
crap removed


You are one sick puppy. Do you get a thrill out of stalking people? You
clearly know nothing about boats or engines, but you know a heck of a lot
about stalking. **** off.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com




Take your rudeness and vulgarity elsewhere! I find it really distasteful
that you must subject everyone to your outbursts.

Engine oil check
 

"Tony Helton" wrote in message
...

"Capt. JG" wrote in message
...
"Ernie Harrod" wrote in message
...
crap removed


You are one sick puppy. Do you get a thrill out of stalking people? You
clearly know nothing about boats or engines, but you know a heck of a lot
about stalking. **** off.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com




Take your rudeness and vulgarity elsewhere! I find it really distasteful
that you must subject everyone to your outbursts.


I agree! Seems to me this gay chronic complainer and Usenet abuser has a
dysfunctional personality. Sort of a cross between psycho and schizoid
combined with paranoia, dementia and gender identification problems. His
main contribution has been and always will be just more clutter and
continued failed attempts to control - not to mention patently disingenuous
attempts to appear normal and friendly to disguise his ingrained
back-stabbing nature with loud cries that scream "Please accept me, nobody
wants me in real life - I've failed at everything I ever tried to do, maybe
I'll be accepted here! Maybe I can fool people since they can't see how I
look and act like a weasel."

The only ones to be fooled are fools!


--
Gregory Hall

Engine oil check
 

"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
"Wayne.B" wrote

I would argue that if you change the oil at end of season, changing it
again in the spring is a total waste.

That makes sense. There's going to be less condensation in an engine than
a tank (and I'm already on the record about that). Any moisture is going
to be pure distilled water so not acidic.

OK back to once a year.

--
Roger Long




Except the "end of the season" doesn't imply the end to sailing. It's just
fewer sails per month. This argument does make sense, however, as possibly
mid-season is a better idea.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Engine oil check
 

"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
"Capt. JG" wrote

Except the "end of the season" doesn't imply the end to sailing. It's
just fewer sails per month. This argument does make sense, however, as
possibly mid-season is a better idea.


Maybe for you but I'm up here in Maine.

An oil change just before any long layup is a hard and fast rule.

--
Roger Long

Fortunately, I'm not in the frozen tundra where polar bears roam. LOL

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Engine oil check
 

"Capt. JG" wrote in message
news:Z_6dnay8NMMAimzanZ2dnUVZ_j2dnZ2d@bayareasolut ions...
"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
"Wayne.B" wrote

I would argue that if you change the oil at end of season, changing it
again in the spring is a total waste.

That makes sense. There's going to be less condensation in an engine
than a tank (and I'm already on the record about that). Any moisture is
going to be pure distilled water so not acidic.

OK back to once a year.

--
Roger Long




Except the "end of the season" doesn't imply the end to sailing. It's just
fewer sails per month. --

You are in San Diego, right? Some of us sail where the sea sometimes freezes
so 'end of season' can often be stretched to say, mid November, but after
that all bets are off.

Engine oil check
 

"Tony Helton" wrote in message
...
. Don't forget that frequent magnafluxing
of the block helps too.

You strip your engine on a regular basis just so you can magnaflux the
cylinder block??.

Engine oil check
 

On Mon, 31 Mar 2008 09:55:57 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

Except the "end of the season" doesn't imply the end to sailing. It's just
fewer sails per month. This argument does make sense, however, as possibly
mid-season is a better idea.

Roger is in an area where there actually is an "end of season".

Engine oil check
 

"Capt. JG" wrote in
:

Do all Perkins 4-108s smoke like that? I almost bought a boat that did
that, but it smoked at all rpms, so I passed.



No, they don't. It only smokes if the prop is too steep and you're shoving
more fuel into it than it has air to burn....turning it into carbon.

It'll smoke if you're going forward and pull hard astern...

That boat probably needed to have its injection timing done and its
injection set. Smoke doesn't hurt them, just wastes fuel.