On Mar 24, 12:19 pm, "Edgar" wrote:
When the cylinder walls are cold acidic combustion products stay on the
cylinder wall instead of leaving as vapours with the exhaust gases and this
leads to increased wear.

This I did not know.

Idling for 5 minutes is not as good for warming up the engine as getting
some load on within, say, 2 minutes.

The manual is pretty specific. I wonder if there is a trade off that
depends somewhat on the engine involved.

The bit about 'racing' the engine after
prolonged idling is to get some fuel through the injectors as the flow at
idling is so small that the fuel in the injector can start to polymerise and
clog the holes in the nozzle.

"This is done to clean out carbon from the cylinder and the fuel
injection valve." Is what they say and I think that means what you
said.

Thanks,

-- Tom.

"Roger Long" wrote in
:

I agree thought that excessive idling isn't good. "Reducing to 10
minutes" sounds like too much to me.


Drive by any truck stop at 2AM in the cold. They idle 24/7 and only run 2
million miles between overhauls. What nonsense.

Larry wrote:
"Roger Long" wrote in
:

I agree thought that excessive idling isn't good. "Reducing to 10
minutes" sounds like too much to me.


Drive by any truck stop at 2AM in the cold. They idle 24/7 and only run 2
million miles between overhauls. What nonsense.


Idling a diesel engine such as in a boat means it will never warm up
to proper operating temperatures thus causing more wear.
In the case of a semi in a truck stop, there is an automatic shutter
in front of the radiator which closes down to keep the idling engine at
operating temps. They don't shut them down because in the morning they
would again be abusing a cold engine.
G

Gordon wrote in
:

Larry wrote:
"Roger Long" wrote in
:

I agree thought that excessive idling isn't good. "Reducing to 10
minutes" sounds like too much to me.


Drive by any truck stop at 2AM in the cold. They idle 24/7 and only
run 2 million miles between overhauls. What nonsense.


Idling a diesel engine such as in a boat means it will never warm
up
to proper operating temperatures thus causing more wear.
In the case of a semi in a truck stop, there is an automatic
shutter
in front of the radiator which closes down to keep the idling engine
at operating temps. They don't shut them down because in the morning
they would again be abusing a cold engine.
G


There were two 8V92TA train engines in my buddy Dan's 1981 Hatteras 56.
Until I came along, he never operated these monsters at any speed over
half of hull speed because he was terrified of it. We're talking about
YEARS of "just idling around".

The first time I opened the throttles wide as we cleared the Charleston
Jetties, enough carbon black poured out of the pipes to make a mountain
of tires, spread out over miles of ocean as a black cloud! She smoothed
right out after clearing her throat. He went below, convinced the
engines would explode in a blast of parts as she cleared 2/3 of redline.
They didn't....they were fine....albeit a tiny bit noisy because Dan had
the engine room hatches open with his fingers in his ears....(c;

Soon after he spotted the fuel flow meters and did a little math, I
pulled the throttles back to a more economical position, just above
planing speed. What a beautiful yacht she was cruising along, a giant
bassboat.

When he sold her, right after Larry got everything working below the
galley house and engine rooms and electronics suite, the buyer had
General Diesel, our DD shop, to pull them down and inspect them. I knew
he was wasting his money because they cranked so easily I'd be afraid to
jack them over with a big wrench for fear they would spontaneously start
they started so easily...GD found ONE out-of-spec spring in the
starboard engine, in spite of Dan's "trawler speeds" all those years.
They were just fine. I saw her a couple of years later and talked to
the new owner who'd had her in the Caribbean long enough to completely
blister her underwater hull. He cracked an injector, but that was all.
She was still just fine, thousands of hours later.

You yachties need a little reality check. Ask a local shrimper if you
can go out with him for a day and watch his diesel(s) run. Count all
the idling along hours during the day and multiply by the shrimp
season... Notice how his engines are all pampered and pure like yours.

I always thought what killed them first was the water in the injection
system caused by the lazy ******* that owned them NOT filling the tanks
before he stored them and NOT getting the oil changed because "I didn't
run it much". If you crank it full of new oil, a biologic clock starts
ticking as the fuel blowby consumes the lube oil...even if you "don't
run it much". That's what kills sailboat engines.....disuse.

Larry wrote:
Gordon wrote in
:

Larry wrote:
"Roger Long" wrote in
:

I agree thought that excessive idling isn't good. "Reducing to 10
minutes" sounds like too much to me.

Drive by any truck stop at 2AM in the cold. They idle 24/7 and only
run 2 million miles between overhauls. What nonsense.

Idling a diesel engine such as in a boat means it will never warm
up
to proper operating temperatures thus causing more wear.
In the case of a semi in a truck stop, there is an automatic
shutter
in front of the radiator which closes down to keep the idling engine
at operating temps. They don't shut them down because in the morning
they would again be abusing a cold engine.
G


There were two 8V92TA train engines in my buddy Dan's 1981 Hatteras 56.
Until I came along, he never operated these monsters at any speed over
half of hull speed because he was terrified of it. We're talking about
YEARS of "just idling around".

Sorry Larry but half of hull speed is NOT idling!
Gordon

Gordon wrote:
Larry wrote:
"Roger Long" wrote in
:
I agree thought that excessive idling isn't good. "Reducing to 10
minutes" sounds like too much to me.


Drive by any truck stop at 2AM in the cold. They idle 24/7 and only
run 2 million miles between overhauls. What nonsense.


Idling a diesel engine such as in a boat means it will never warm up
to proper operating temperatures thus causing more wear.

Funny, my diesel has a thermostat, runs at the same temp in idle as it
does at full throttle.

Cheers
Marty

Roger Long wrote:
"Marty" wrote
Funny, my diesel has a thermostat, runs at the same temp in idle as it
does at full throttle.

That's temperature measured in one spot and will be the same at idle as full
throttle if the cooling system is performing properly. When starting from
cold however, there are variations of temperature all over the engine that
are not measured or directly controlled by a thermostat.

Incidentally, idling an engine that has been run at normal power so that
everything is fully warmed up is probably not nearly as bad for it as
starting it and then running at idle for a couple hours to charge batteries.
Everything is warm and, although it may cool down a bit in some parts, it
won't go through a long period with some parts cold, minimial oil flow, and

To be fair, we're probably talking apples and oranges here. My diesel
is a little Volvo D1-13,
http://www.volvo.com/NR/exeres/FD791...C27D991387.htm

It probably quite quickly comes to the same temperature through out.
When I installed it I went over it with a infrared thermometer and found
very little variation in temp from the bottom of the block to top of the
head, may about 5deg C after 10 minutes of idling.

Cheers
Marty

On Mar 22, 3:06 am, "Roger Long" wrote:
Say, I just discovered that there is a plate that allows access to the
injector limit spring and mechanism on my engine without having to pull the
whole rear cover off. Take a look at your engine, I'll bet it has something
similar.

Ok, I just pulled the cover off. In as much as I can see anything it
all looks fine. The hole is a lot smaller than it looks on the
drawings... The little spring loaded rod that comes out of the limiter
follows the throttle crank through its entire motion and appears to
operate smoothly. I can't really see all the springs towards the
tranny end of the motor but they are there. The whole assy is nicely
oiled and looks lovely. I did tear the gasket while removing the
plate. Any thoughts on whether I need to order the Yanmar part or if
I can get away with some other method (eg. goo or paper)?

I pondered the injection limiter and I can't see any way to fiddle w/
it w/o breaking the seal. Unlike the drawings the seal is through the
cap nut rather than the lock nut... Hmmmm....

-- Tom.

On Mar 25, 9:01 am, " wrote:
I did tear the gasket while removing the
plate. Any thoughts on whether I need to order the Yanmar part or if
I can get away with some other method (eg. goo or paper)?

The local dealer has them in stock for $1.50... So, I'll get a new
Yanmar (tm) one.

-- Tom.

On Mar 25, 9:36 am, " wrote:
On Mar 25, 9:01 am, " wrote:

I did tear the gasket while removing the
plate. Any thoughts on whether I need to order the Yanmar part or if
I can get away with some other method (eg. goo or paper)?

The local dealer has them in stock for $1.50... So, I'll get a new
Yanmar (tm) one.

-- Tom.

Just installed the new gasket. I have had the plate on and off 3
times now; I'm so glad I don't pay myself by the hour... There was a
bit of paint and gunk on the throttle crank itself (the dealers
repainted the engine when they had it). So, I oiled the crank axle
and worked it back and forth a bit. It runs quite smoothly now.
After the first re-assembly the motor showed its old hunting symptoms
to a greater extent than I've ever seen before. However, with the new
gasket in it runs perfectly... Sadly I didn't keep all the other
variables constant. The solar panels have been charging the batteries
and the hour break to run down to the Yanmar dealer probably didn't
let the motor cool off entirely. I'll try it again in the morning.

-- Tom.