On Mar 22, 2:11 am, "Roger Long" wrote:
Tom,

The engine that burns more fuel is the one with the control problem, right?

No, the problem engine is using less fuel for the same nominal rpm.

...Turning the adjustment could
cause even more problems if so.

Yes, there must be a reason they don't want users to mess with it.
That could be it.

Get an opinion from someone who actually knows but I'll bet a six pack they
are going to tell you they need to pull the rear case cover and look at that
spring.

I'd happily pay for an opinion from "someone who actually knows", but
simply asking (and paying) the local Yanmar dealers and recommended
independents obviously isn't a good way to get that opinion...

-- Tom.

On Mar 22, 3:06 am, "Roger Long" wrote:
Say, I just discovered that there is a plate that allows access to the
injector limit spring and mechanism on my engine without having to pull the
whole rear cover off. Take a look at your engine, I'll bet it has something
similar.

Yes, it looks like I can remove the idle adjuster assy and get a look
in there (well, feel in there really). I like that idea as I should
be able to slip a feeler or something between the injection limiter
and the crank arm to see that its spring is working and scope out the
regulator springs, too. Cool. Monday, though.

-- Tom.

On Sat, 22 Mar 2008 12:32:10 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Mar 22, 2:15 am, Vic Smith wrote:
You may get more on-target suggestions if you describe the symptoms
more precisely - such as what load, what rpm variations.

Could be. But in a way I'm trying to avoid doing that because I've
been down that route here and with pros and 100% of people say air in
the fuel. For years I've believed them and labored to get the fuel
system just so and I've spend a lot of money having the pros work it
over, too. It is not a show stopper. I've traveled tens of thousands
of miles with it. But, it is a continual annoyance. So, basically
the last part that nobody has messed with that could reasonably be
causing my problems is the governor. Applying the do the easy stuff
first principle I looked at the beast and it has an adjustment the
might possibly fix or mask the problem and it looks super easy to do.
But, it is factory sealed. So, my question was, in essence, will
vengeful samurai descend from heaven to cause me grave bodily harm if
I tweak that puppy? So far, I think I've gotten a good solid "maybe"
on that. I'm not really asking for a diagnosis of the problem. I
pretty much lost faith in them (though they are always amusing and I'm
happy to read any that are proffered).

Know what you mean. The reason I mentioned that is once in an auto
group somebody reported odd but specific symptoms of stalling in his 5
year old supercharged Pontiac. He was getting all kinds of logical -
but wrong - advice from technicians. It just so happened that a
workmate of mine had that exact car and recently related to me those
exact symptoms. His mechanic couldn't solve it and sent it to the
Pontiac dealer, who quickly fixed it.
This posting activity happened on a weekend and I posted that I would
find the solution from my workmate on Monday. But since I ended up
not working that Monday the original poster started e-mailing me.
I called my workmate to look at his dealer receipt when he went home,
and the only part listed was a fuel pump resistor.
When I relayed this to the original poster, he went into his garage
and had the resistor bypassed and on order within an hour, his problem
was gone, and he thanked me heartily. He seemed the type really fond
of his car and wanting to always do his own fixing. As much as I've
worked on cars, the only time I touched a resistor was on my son's
Sony PS1 playstaion. I melted everything into ruination.
But the car problem solution was an unusually fortuitous set of
events, and usenet worked quite well.
Your situation is different of course, and there is a smaller set of
Yanmar owners, but there's always a chance.
Besides, it makes people feel good to make suggestions, no matter
how irrelevant they are (-:

--Vic

On Mar 22, 4:02 pm, Vic Smith wrote:
... Besides, it makes people feel good to make suggestions, no matter
how irrelevant they are (-:

Sorry, I didn't mean to deprive you of you're go. Please, suggest
away! I'm planning on taking the boat out in the morning anyway,
so I'll try and pay particular attention to the motor and report some
symptoms for you.

Cheers, and Happy Easter,

-- Tom.

On Mar 22, 9:05 pm, " wrote:
... I'm planning on taking the boat out in the morning anyway,
so I'll try and pay particular attention to the motor and report some
symptoms for you. ...

Alright, I took the family out for a cruise yesterday and did keep an
eye on the engines. I reduced the warm up period to about 10 minutes
and the batteries were fully charged when I left the dock. On the run
out of the harbor I set both throttles to about 2300 and for the first
5 minutes or so the stb eng would run up to just under the desired rpm
and then drop off 200 fairly slowly and then run back up. The full
cycle taking about 10 seconds. We set sail and sailed for a couple of
hours and then restarted the motors to anchor and throttle response
appeared normal. After a couple hours at anchor I motored home (about
4 miles). The engines appeared to run normally. Neither smokes at
WOT and both ran up to full rpms (though we were running with a
strongish tail wind). I know this isn't going to help my case as it
sure sounds like air in the fuel. Still, I'm pretty convinced that's
not it. I have spent a lot of time with the fuel system. The filters
are new. The day tank is above the engine. There doesn't appear to
be any water or growth in the fuel. But, I hope everyone who wants to
will feel free to tell me what they think the problem is. Fire
away!

-- Tom

PS. And thanks.

wrote in message
...
On Mar 22, 9:05 pm, " wrote:
... I'm planning on taking the boat out in the morning anyway,
so I'll try and pay particular attention to the motor and report some
symptoms for you. ...

Alright, I took the family out for a cruise yesterday and did keep an
eye on the engines. I reduced the warm up period to about 10 minutes
snipped.

Warming up a diesel for 10 minutes is unnecessarily long and does no good.
Give them a couple of minutes to make sure everything is working and then
leave the dock and get some load on.
Prolonged idling from cold causes a lot of wear.

On Mar 24, 9:30 am, "Edgar" wrote:
Warming up a diesel for 10 minutes is unnecessarily long and does no good.
Give them a couple of minutes to make sure everything is working and then
leave the dock and get some load on.
Prolonged idling from cold causes a lot of wear.

Help me out, how does it cause wear? Sure, I don't know squat about
engines but it from book learning and a tiny bit of expericene:
Assuming that the oil is of a suitable weight it should work just fine
at idle. The manual requires racing the engine periodically if
running at low speeds for over 2 hours but requires not less than 5
minutes of warm up before _any_ load is applied. Letting the oil
splash about and passing it through the filter once or twice before
things get really hot seems like a good thing to me. The motor is a
bigish chunk of metal and gaskets and spings and such and heating it
up fast must cause stress. I've had the exhaust elbows off both
engines twice and there was no evidence of unusual coking. FWIW, I
generally push the idle speed up during the warm up and have some
alternator load so the motors aren't likely to be running way under
temp anyway.

-- Tom.

On Mar 24, 9:52 am, "Roger Long" wrote:
Did you trywww.boatdiesel.com?

Yes, thanks. There were a couple of questions that sounded
interesting but I wasn't able to read any of the replies w/o forking
over $25. I just hate the idea of sending them my credit card info
and having them say "check your fuel lines"...

-- Tom.

On Mon, 24 Mar 2008 13:58:40 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

Yes, thanks. There were a couple of questions that sounded
interesting but I wasn't able to read any of the replies w/o forking
over $25. I just hate the idea of sending them my credit card info
and having them say "check your fuel lines"...

It's a good forum, lots of experts. Somewhere along the line you will
get your $25 worth.

I believe the classic way of checking for air leaks is to insert a
piece of clear plastic tubing in the fuel feed just before the
injection pump and watch for bubbles.

wrote in message
...
On Mar 24, 9:30 am, "Edgar" wrote:
Warming up a diesel for 10 minutes is unnecessarily long and does no
good.
Give them a couple of minutes to make sure everything is working and
then
leave the dock and get some load on.
Prolonged idling from cold causes a lot of wear.

Help me out, how does it cause wear? Sure, I don't know squat about
engines but it from book learning and a tiny bit of expericene:
Assuming that the oil is of a suitable weight it should work just fine
at idle. The manual requires racing the engine periodically if
running at low speeds for over 2 hours but requires not less than 5
minutes of warm up before _any_ load is applied. Letting the oil
splash about and passing it through the filter once or twice before
things get really hot seems like a good thing to me. The motor is a
bigish chunk of metal and gaskets and spings and such and heating it
up fast must cause stress. I've had the exhaust elbows off both
engines twice and there was no evidence of unusual coking. FWIW, I
generally push the idle speed up during the warm up and have some
alternator load so the motors aren't likely to be running way under
temp anyway.

-- Tom.

When the cylinder walls are cold acidic combustion products stay on the
cylinder wall instead of leaving as vapours with the exhaust gases and this
leads to increased wear. Maximum wear occurs near top dead centre when the
piston is slowing and reversing its motion because this is the area where
there is least oil film and the slow motion of the piston rings does not
prevent some metal to metal contact. Lower down the cylinder the piston
rings are riding on an oil film and wear is much lower.
Idling for 5 minutes is not as good for warming up the engine as getting
some load on within, say, 2 minutes. The bit about 'racing' the engine after
prolonged idling is to get some fuel through the injectors as the flow at
idling is so small that the fuel in the injector can start to polymerise and
clog the holes in the nozzle. Here again running at speed with some load on
is better than 'racing' the engine if by racing you mean running up to full
speed on no load.
I accept that your alternator will provide some load but whether this is
enough to be effective depends on the size of the alternator relative to the
power of the engine and whether the alternator finds a battery that is
already fully charged or one that is low and needs some charge.