On Tue, 25 Dec 2007 10:07:21 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Dec 24, 3:11 pm, Bruce in Bangkok wrote:
... Given that all the sail track I have seen is stainless how do you
suggest it be installed on the aluminum mast? ...

FWIW, you can get aluminum sail track. I've got miles (or so it
seems) of black anodized AL Harken track on my boat. IMO, _the_
"right" way to attach anything to an AL mast is to drill and tap the
mast for ss fasteners and then isolate _all_ of the parts with Durlac
(or similar). BTW, I'd be very grateful if anyone could point me to
a source for Durlac here in the States. It seems silly to ship a tube
up for New Zealand.

Merry Christmas!

-- Tom.

It isn't the same stuff but I have used 3M 5200 to insulate
aluminum-stainless joints with success on masts and spars.


Bruce-in-Bangkok
(Note:remove underscores
from address for reply)

"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 25 Dec 2007 10:07:21 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Dec 24, 3:11 pm, Bruce in Bangkok wrote:
... Given that all the sail track I have seen is stainless how do you
suggest it be installed on the aluminum mast? ...

FWIW, you can get aluminum sail track. I've got miles (or so it
seems) of black anodized AL Harken track on my boat. IMO, _the_
"right" way to attach anything to an AL mast is to drill and tap the
mast for ss fasteners and then isolate _all_ of the parts with Durlac
(or similar). BTW, I'd be very grateful if anyone could point me to
a source for Durlac here in the States. It seems silly to ship a tube
up for New Zealand.

Merry Christmas!

-- Tom.

It isn't the same stuff but I have used 3M 5200 to insulate
aluminum-stainless joints with success on masts and spars.


Bruce-in-Bangkok
(Note:remove underscores
from address for reply)


I used the 3M 4200. (just in cast dis-assembly required)

On Wed, 26 Dec 2007 08:46:39 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 26 Dec 2007 19:25:31 +0700, Bruce in Bangkok
wrote:

On Tue, 25 Dec 2007 10:07:21 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Dec 24, 3:11 pm, Bruce in Bangkok wrote:
... Given that all the sail track I have seen is stainless how do you
suggest it be installed on the aluminum mast? ...

FWIW, you can get aluminum sail track. I've got miles (or so it
seems) of black anodized AL Harken track on my boat. IMO, _the_
"right" way to attach anything to an AL mast is to drill and tap the
mast for ss fasteners and then isolate _all_ of the parts with Durlac
(or similar). BTW, I'd be very grateful if anyone could point me to
a source for Durlac here in the States. It seems silly to ship a tube
up for New Zealand.

Merry Christmas!

-- Tom.

It isn't the same stuff but I have used 3M 5200 to insulate
aluminum-stainless joints with success on masts and spars.


Aaaaaaaak! Never use 5200 on anything that you may later want to take
apart.

You know? I've been reading this on this news group for years and for
all that time, and longer, I've been using 3M 5200 to bed things on
boats and never once have I had any problems in removing the item when
I wanted to.

I agree it is a pretty good adhesive but certainly not impossible, or
even very difficult. to remove items attached with it.


Bruce-in-Bangkok
(Note:remove underscores
from address for reply)

On 2007-12-26 17:37:50 -0500, Bruce in Bangkok said:

You know? I've been reading this on this news group for years and for
all that time, and longer, I've been using 3M 5200 to bed things on
boats and never once have I had any problems in removing the item when
I wanted to.

I agree it is a pretty good adhesive but certainly not impossible, or
even very difficult. to remove items attached with it.

My experience has been that with good surface prep, 5200 is essentially
"forever" (or at least greater than a decade). Extremely tough to
cut, stayed flexible and bonded to the surface better than the gelcoat
to the substrate.

--
Jere Lull
Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD
Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

On Thu, 27 Dec 2007 00:59:01 GMT, Jere Lull wrote:

On 2007-12-26 17:37:50 -0500, Bruce in Bangkok said:

You know? I've been reading this on this news group for years and for
all that time, and longer, I've been using 3M 5200 to bed things on
boats and never once have I had any problems in removing the item when
I wanted to.

I agree it is a pretty good adhesive but certainly not impossible, or
even very difficult. to remove items attached with it.

My experience has been that with good surface prep, 5200 is essentially
"forever" (or at least greater than a decade). Extremely tough to
cut, stayed flexible and bonded to the surface better than the gelcoat
to the substrate.


It is a good "glue" but easy enough to remove. Take a couple of putty
knives and sharpen the edge like a knife. you can drive these between
the two parts to sheer the 5200 (it never gets hard) and work around
the whatever you are taking off. then just pull it off. It sounds kind
of difficult when described but is actually pretty easy once you get
the hang of it. The nice thing about 5200 is, as you say, it makes a
joint that lasts forever.


Bruce-in-Bangkok
(Note:remove underscores
from address for reply)

On 2007-12-26 17:37:50 -0500, Bruce in Bangkok said:
You know? I've been reading this on this news group for years and for
all that time, and longer, I've been using 3M 5200 to bed things on
boats and never once have I had any problems in removing the item when
I wanted to.

I agree it is a pretty good adhesive but certainly not impossible, or
even very difficult. to remove items attached with it.

And Jere Lull replied:
My experience has been that with good surface prep, 5200 is
essentially "forever" (or at least greater than a decade). Extremely
tough to cut, stayed flexible and bonded to the surface better than the
gelcoat to the substrate.

But with the new 5200 adhesive removers available in most chandleries it
isn't very hard to remove either.
Red

On 2007-12-27 15:39:03 -0500, Red said:

And Jere Lull replied:
My experience has been that with good surface prep, 5200 is essentially
"forever" (or at least greater than a decade). Extremely tough to
cut, stayed flexible and bonded to the surface better than the gelcoat
to the substrate.

But with the new 5200 adhesive removers available in most chandleries
it isn't very hard to remove either.
Red

Problem with the remover -- and heat, which also works -- is that you
have to be really careful if the nearby deck has been painted.

--
Jere Lull
Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD
Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

Problem with the remover -- and heat, which also works -- is that you
have to be really careful if the nearby deck has been painted.


Jere, I haven't found that to be a problem... yet! But maybe there are
some paints it reacts with and not others.
Red

I agree with Bruce and also with Jere, because as with most things
:maritime "the devil is in the details". 3M 5200 can be fairly easy or
next-to-impossible to remove. Everything depends on what object you just
stuck to what substrate, the width of the gap and the surface preparation. I
once had to remove a 5200-adhered Simpson Lawrence windlass from a teak deck
and it took endless pounding and prying with improvised spatulas and wedges
to get it free and even then it was impossible to avoid pulling up some
splinters of the teak. 5200 adheres *very* well to unfinished, unoiled teak,
so the combination of a large surface area cast aluminum windlass base and a
beautifully finished flat teak deck was not even slightly susceptible to
gentle prying. Wonder-solvents would have been useless in that situation --
too hard to get any meaningful solvent to joint contact. I can't imagine
why the builder used anything so unfriendly to removal for yearly
regreasing - and the result was rusty frozen clutch bearings for lack of
easy routine maintenance. We were very lucky to be able to get it apart and
working again in a remote area on a boat with a lot of heavy chain.. I much
prefer Dolfinite for anything which might need to be taken apart someday and
which has adequate bolt or screw fasteners not needing assistance from a
strong adhesive.
Seasons greetings and best wishes for the New Year to all from snowy Maine,
Scott

BCC #73


"Jere Lull" wrote in message
news:2007122719192816807-jerelull@maccom...
On 2007-12-27 15:39:03 -0500, Red said:

And Jere Lull replied:
My experience has been that with good surface prep, 5200 is essentially
"forever" (or at least greater than a decade). Extremely tough to
cut, stayed flexible and bonded to the surface better than the gelcoat
to the substrate.

But with the new 5200 adhesive removers available in most chandleries it
isn't very hard to remove either.
Red

Problem with the remover -- and heat, which also works -- is that you have
to be really careful if the nearby deck has been painted.

--
Jere Lull
Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD
Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/