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engine overheating
I have a yanmar 2GM20F installed in a Plenamar 300 with the following
problem, No water coming out of the exhaust pipe with the result of overheating and the pump is working with a new impeller, what could be the reason for it and the solution. Thanks in advance Jzlatar-geminis |
engine overheating
Clogged raw water intake?
"jzlatar-genesis" wrote in message om... I have a yanmar 2GM20F installed in a Plenamar 300 with the following problem, No water coming out of the exhaust pipe with the result of overheating and the pump is working with a new impeller, what could be the reason for it and the solution. Thanks in advance Jzlatar-geminis |
engine overheating
Clogged raw water intake?
"jzlatar-genesis" wrote in message om... I have a yanmar 2GM20F installed in a Plenamar 300 with the following problem, No water coming out of the exhaust pipe with the result of overheating and the pump is working with a new impeller, what could be the reason for it and the solution. Thanks in advance Jzlatar-geminis |
engine overheating
"Ray D" rayd at gis.net wrote in message ... Clogged raw water intake? I would also check the raw water strainer and when the impeller was changed, was it whole or was there a piece missing that could have moved into the cooling system. Leanne "jzlatar-genesis" wrote in message om... I have a yanmar 2GM20F installed in a Plenamar 300 with the following problem, No water coming out of the exhaust pipe with the result of overheating and the pump is working with a new impeller, what could be the reason for it and the solution. Thanks in advance Jzlatar-geminis |
engine overheating
"Ray D" rayd at gis.net wrote in message ... Clogged raw water intake? I would also check the raw water strainer and when the impeller was changed, was it whole or was there a piece missing that could have moved into the cooling system. Leanne "jzlatar-genesis" wrote in message om... I have a yanmar 2GM20F installed in a Plenamar 300 with the following problem, No water coming out of the exhaust pipe with the result of overheating and the pump is working with a new impeller, what could be the reason for it and the solution. Thanks in advance Jzlatar-geminis |
engine overheating
"Leanne" wrote in message ... "Ray D" rayd at gis.net wrote in message ... Clogged raw water intake? I would also check the raw water strainer and when the impeller was changed, was it whole or was there a piece missing that could have moved into the cooling system. Leanne "jzlatar-genesis" wrote in message om... I have a yanmar 2GM20F installed in a Plenamar 300 with the following problem, No water coming out of the exhaust pipe with the result of overheating and the pump is working with a new impeller, what could be the reason for it and the solution. Thanks in advance Jzlatar-geminis |
engine overheating
"Leanne" wrote in message ... "Ray D" rayd at gis.net wrote in message ... Clogged raw water intake? I would also check the raw water strainer and when the impeller was changed, was it whole or was there a piece missing that could have moved into the cooling system. Leanne "jzlatar-genesis" wrote in message om... I have a yanmar 2GM20F installed in a Plenamar 300 with the following problem, No water coming out of the exhaust pipe with the result of overheating and the pump is working with a new impeller, what could be the reason for it and the solution. Thanks in advance Jzlatar-geminis |
engine overheating
You should be able to verify the intake end, including the pump, simply by
disconnecting the pump output and turning the engine over for a few seconds with the compression releases open. It should pump a good stream immediately. I assume you have done that from your comment of "pump is working." The next step is the heat exchanger, which can be clogged, and following that is the exhaust elbow. If you have flow from the pump, you can disconnect the line from the heat exchanger to the elbow and turn it over again. One of my engines carbons up the elbow so quickly enough that I pull it and scrape it out every year or two. Its only a 1 hour job if you have the gaskets and the wrenches that can reach the nuts. Its also possible that the exhaust pipe or muffler has a problem, but the engine wouldn't start if the exhaust was actually clogged. -jeff "Leanne" wrote in message ... "Ray D" rayd at gis.net wrote in message ... Clogged raw water intake? I would also check the raw water strainer and when the impeller was changed, was it whole or was there a piece missing that could have moved into the cooling system. Leanne "jzlatar-genesis" wrote in message om... I have a yanmar 2GM20F installed in a Plenamar 300 with the following problem, No water coming out of the exhaust pipe with the result of overheating and the pump is working with a new impeller, what could be the reason for it and the solution. Thanks in advance Jzlatar-geminis |
engine overheating
You should be able to verify the intake end, including the pump, simply by
disconnecting the pump output and turning the engine over for a few seconds with the compression releases open. It should pump a good stream immediately. I assume you have done that from your comment of "pump is working." The next step is the heat exchanger, which can be clogged, and following that is the exhaust elbow. If you have flow from the pump, you can disconnect the line from the heat exchanger to the elbow and turn it over again. One of my engines carbons up the elbow so quickly enough that I pull it and scrape it out every year or two. Its only a 1 hour job if you have the gaskets and the wrenches that can reach the nuts. Its also possible that the exhaust pipe or muffler has a problem, but the engine wouldn't start if the exhaust was actually clogged. -jeff "Leanne" wrote in message ... "Ray D" rayd at gis.net wrote in message ... Clogged raw water intake? I would also check the raw water strainer and when the impeller was changed, was it whole or was there a piece missing that could have moved into the cooling system. Leanne "jzlatar-genesis" wrote in message om... I have a yanmar 2GM20F installed in a Plenamar 300 with the following problem, No water coming out of the exhaust pipe with the result of overheating and the pump is working with a new impeller, what could be the reason for it and the solution. Thanks in advance Jzlatar-geminis |
engine overheating
On 19 Jan 2004 06:19:16 -0800, (jzlatar-genesis)
wrote: I have a yanmar 2GM20F installed in a Plenamar 300 with the following problem, No water coming out of the exhaust pipe with the result of overheating and the pump is working with a new impeller, what could be the reason for it and the solution. Thanks in advance Jzlatar-geminis If a plugged raw water intake or sea strainer is not present, the problem might be that the dry impeller is not creating a sufficient vacuum to draw water. I have used two approaches. 1) try revving the engine to about 3000 rpm that might draw water through the system. 2) (This one requires greater care.) Disconnect the water intake from the inlet to the heat exchanger. While the engine is running apply some vacuum to the hose just was you would when siphoning. When (if) the water starts flowing, place it back on the inlet and tighten the hose clamp. I have used both techniques on a 3GM. Also check the cam inside the impeller chamber. It might be worn. Jack __________________________________________________ Jack Dale Swiftsure Sailing Academy Director/ISPA and CYA Instructor http://www.swiftsuresailing.com Phone: 1 (877) 470-SAIL (toll free) __________________________________________________ |
engine overheating
On 19 Jan 2004 06:19:16 -0800, (jzlatar-genesis)
wrote: I have a yanmar 2GM20F installed in a Plenamar 300 with the following problem, No water coming out of the exhaust pipe with the result of overheating and the pump is working with a new impeller, what could be the reason for it and the solution. Thanks in advance Jzlatar-geminis The mixing elbow is a known weak point in small Yanmars. This is the place the raw water enters the exhaust. It's supposed to be good for about 500 hrs or 6-7 years, whichever comes first. My experience was with a 3GM30F, but I believe that the 2GM20F is quite similar. Find the raw water exit from the heat exchanger and trace it to the exhaust pipe. On most boats, the mixing elbow is shaped like an upside down "U", but it could be just a pipe slanting downward away from the engine. Pull the water hose off of this fitting to see if there is any flow at this point. If there is, you've found the problem, or at least one problem. Don't try to rod out the mixing elbow to get the water flowing again. Just replace it. If you're going to try to replace it yourself, remove the entire exhaust pipe from where it is bolted to the exhaust manifold at the back of the heat exchanger. It's easier and safer than trying to work on it in place. Don't forget that you'll need a new gasket. For the "U" shaped mixing elbow, I seem to recall that there is an adapter with a reverse thread that has to be removed. Good luck, and let us know how it goes. __________________________________________________ __________ Glen "Wiley" Wilson usenet1 SPAMNIX at worldwidewiley dot com To reply, lose the capitals and do the obvious. Take a look at cpRepeater, my NMEA data integrator, repeater, and logger at http://www.worldwidewiley.com/ |
engine overheating
On 19 Jan 2004 06:19:16 -0800, (jzlatar-genesis)
wrote: I have a yanmar 2GM20F installed in a Plenamar 300 with the following problem, No water coming out of the exhaust pipe with the result of overheating and the pump is working with a new impeller, what could be the reason for it and the solution. Thanks in advance Jzlatar-geminis The mixing elbow is a known weak point in small Yanmars. This is the place the raw water enters the exhaust. It's supposed to be good for about 500 hrs or 6-7 years, whichever comes first. My experience was with a 3GM30F, but I believe that the 2GM20F is quite similar. Find the raw water exit from the heat exchanger and trace it to the exhaust pipe. On most boats, the mixing elbow is shaped like an upside down "U", but it could be just a pipe slanting downward away from the engine. Pull the water hose off of this fitting to see if there is any flow at this point. If there is, you've found the problem, or at least one problem. Don't try to rod out the mixing elbow to get the water flowing again. Just replace it. If you're going to try to replace it yourself, remove the entire exhaust pipe from where it is bolted to the exhaust manifold at the back of the heat exchanger. It's easier and safer than trying to work on it in place. Don't forget that you'll need a new gasket. For the "U" shaped mixing elbow, I seem to recall that there is an adapter with a reverse thread that has to be removed. Good luck, and let us know how it goes. __________________________________________________ __________ Glen "Wiley" Wilson usenet1 SPAMNIX at worldwidewiley dot com To reply, lose the capitals and do the obvious. Take a look at cpRepeater, my NMEA data integrator, repeater, and logger at http://www.worldwidewiley.com/ |
engine overheating
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engine overheating
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engine overheating
"Jeff Morris" wrote in message ...
You should be able to verify the intake end, including the pump, simply by disconnecting the pump output and turning the engine over for a few seconds with the compression releases open. It should pump a good stream immediately. I assume you have done that from your comment of "pump is working." The next step is the heat exchanger, which can be clogged, and following that is the exhaust elbow. If you have flow from the pump, you can disconnect the line from the heat exchanger to the elbow and turn it over again. One of my engines carbons up the elbow so quickly enough that I pull it and scrape it out every year or two. Its only a 1 hour job if you have the gaskets and the wrenches that can reach the nuts. Its also possible that the exhaust pipe or muffler has a problem, but the engine wouldn't start if the exhaust was actually clogged. -jeff "Leanne" wrote in message ... "Ray D" rayd at gis.net wrote in message ... Clogged raw water intake? I would also check the raw water strainer and when the impeller was changed, was it whole or was there a piece missing that could have moved into the cooling system. Leanne "jzlatar-genesis" wrote in message om... I have a yanmar 2GM20F installed in a Plenamar 300 with the following problem, No water coming out of the exhaust pipe with the result of overheating and the pump is working with a new impeller, what could be the reason for it and the solution. Thanks in advance Jzlatar-geminis Thanks for the prompt response. yes I disconnect the pump output and turn the engine over for a few seconds with the compression releases open. I have a good stream immediately, for that reason know that the pump is working, when I change the impeller the old one was intact. Regarding the muffler, I presume that is working because the fumes come out, if the heat exchanger,is clogged, that means that I have to open the engine? Jorge |
engine overheating
"Jeff Morris" wrote in message ...
You should be able to verify the intake end, including the pump, simply by disconnecting the pump output and turning the engine over for a few seconds with the compression releases open. It should pump a good stream immediately. I assume you have done that from your comment of "pump is working." The next step is the heat exchanger, which can be clogged, and following that is the exhaust elbow. If you have flow from the pump, you can disconnect the line from the heat exchanger to the elbow and turn it over again. One of my engines carbons up the elbow so quickly enough that I pull it and scrape it out every year or two. Its only a 1 hour job if you have the gaskets and the wrenches that can reach the nuts. Its also possible that the exhaust pipe or muffler has a problem, but the engine wouldn't start if the exhaust was actually clogged. -jeff "Leanne" wrote in message ... "Ray D" rayd at gis.net wrote in message ... Clogged raw water intake? I would also check the raw water strainer and when the impeller was changed, was it whole or was there a piece missing that could have moved into the cooling system. Leanne "jzlatar-genesis" wrote in message om... I have a yanmar 2GM20F installed in a Plenamar 300 with the following problem, No water coming out of the exhaust pipe with the result of overheating and the pump is working with a new impeller, what could be the reason for it and the solution. Thanks in advance Jzlatar-geminis Thanks for the prompt response. yes I disconnect the pump output and turn the engine over for a few seconds with the compression releases open. I have a good stream immediately, for that reason know that the pump is working, when I change the impeller the old one was intact. Regarding the muffler, I presume that is working because the fumes come out, if the heat exchanger,is clogged, that means that I have to open the engine? Jorge |
engine overheating
In article ,
jzlatar-genesis wrote: Regarding the muffler, I presume that is working because the fumes come out, NO NO NO NO NO NO ..... fumes AND water need to come out of the exhaust system. If you have water up to the engine as per your prior inspection, then open/disconnect the water exit hose of the exhaust manifold; if flow then you probably have a 'salted' injection elbow, if no flow then you probably have a fouled exhaust manifold. Cast irion exhaust manifolds can fail in two ways: corrosion of the base metal that issues huge platelettes' of rust that lodge in and block the flow channels ..... or the deposition of carbonate salts (boiler scale fouling). What engine do you have? if the heat exchanger,is clogged, that means that I have to open the engine? |
engine overheating
In article ,
jzlatar-genesis wrote: Regarding the muffler, I presume that is working because the fumes come out, NO NO NO NO NO NO ..... fumes AND water need to come out of the exhaust system. If you have water up to the engine as per your prior inspection, then open/disconnect the water exit hose of the exhaust manifold; if flow then you probably have a 'salted' injection elbow, if no flow then you probably have a fouled exhaust manifold. Cast irion exhaust manifolds can fail in two ways: corrosion of the base metal that issues huge platelettes' of rust that lodge in and block the flow channels ..... or the deposition of carbonate salts (boiler scale fouling). What engine do you have? if the heat exchanger,is clogged, that means that I have to open the engine? |
engine overheating
I've never opened the heat exchanger on my Yanmar - I've done it on a Westerbeke
without too much hassle. You should be able to remove the end caps while its on the engine. However, pull the hose that feeds the elbow and repeat the flow test. This will tell you where the problem is. Its a bit of a pain because the elbow fitting has a little ridge on it - this might be a good time to add a "hose pick" to the tool box. Its like a screwdriver with a bent point for a tip - you work it around to loosen the hose. On other thing to invest in is a parts book. This includes blowup diagrams of everything so you can see what you're up against. Torrenson is a good source, as is Mack Boring or Mastry in the USA. -jeff "jzlatar-genesis" wrote in message m... "Jeff Morris" wrote in message ... You should be able to verify the intake end, including the pump, simply by disconnecting the pump output and turning the engine over for a few seconds with the compression releases open. It should pump a good stream immediately. I assume you have done that from your comment of "pump is working." The next step is the heat exchanger, which can be clogged, and following that is the exhaust elbow. If you have flow from the pump, you can disconnect the line from the heat exchanger to the elbow and turn it over again. One of my engines carbons up the elbow so quickly enough that I pull it and scrape it out every year or two. Its only a 1 hour job if you have the gaskets and the wrenches that can reach the nuts. Its also possible that the exhaust pipe or muffler has a problem, but the engine wouldn't start if the exhaust was actually clogged. -jeff "Leanne" wrote in message ... "Ray D" rayd at gis.net wrote in message ... Clogged raw water intake? I would also check the raw water strainer and when the impeller was changed, was it whole or was there a piece missing that could have moved into the cooling system. Leanne "jzlatar-genesis" wrote in message om... I have a yanmar 2GM20F installed in a Plenamar 300 with the following problem, No water coming out of the exhaust pipe with the result of overheating and the pump is working with a new impeller, what could be the reason for it and the solution. Thanks in advance Jzlatar-geminis Thanks for the prompt response. yes I disconnect the pump output and turn the engine over for a few seconds with the compression releases open. I have a good stream immediately, for that reason know that the pump is working, when I change the impeller the old one was intact. Regarding the muffler, I presume that is working because the fumes come out, if the heat exchanger,is clogged, that means that I have to open the engine? Jorge |
engine overheating
I've never opened the heat exchanger on my Yanmar - I've done it on a Westerbeke
without too much hassle. You should be able to remove the end caps while its on the engine. However, pull the hose that feeds the elbow and repeat the flow test. This will tell you where the problem is. Its a bit of a pain because the elbow fitting has a little ridge on it - this might be a good time to add a "hose pick" to the tool box. Its like a screwdriver with a bent point for a tip - you work it around to loosen the hose. On other thing to invest in is a parts book. This includes blowup diagrams of everything so you can see what you're up against. Torrenson is a good source, as is Mack Boring or Mastry in the USA. -jeff "jzlatar-genesis" wrote in message m... "Jeff Morris" wrote in message ... You should be able to verify the intake end, including the pump, simply by disconnecting the pump output and turning the engine over for a few seconds with the compression releases open. It should pump a good stream immediately. I assume you have done that from your comment of "pump is working." The next step is the heat exchanger, which can be clogged, and following that is the exhaust elbow. If you have flow from the pump, you can disconnect the line from the heat exchanger to the elbow and turn it over again. One of my engines carbons up the elbow so quickly enough that I pull it and scrape it out every year or two. Its only a 1 hour job if you have the gaskets and the wrenches that can reach the nuts. Its also possible that the exhaust pipe or muffler has a problem, but the engine wouldn't start if the exhaust was actually clogged. -jeff "Leanne" wrote in message ... "Ray D" rayd at gis.net wrote in message ... Clogged raw water intake? I would also check the raw water strainer and when the impeller was changed, was it whole or was there a piece missing that could have moved into the cooling system. Leanne "jzlatar-genesis" wrote in message om... I have a yanmar 2GM20F installed in a Plenamar 300 with the following problem, No water coming out of the exhaust pipe with the result of overheating and the pump is working with a new impeller, what could be the reason for it and the solution. Thanks in advance Jzlatar-geminis Thanks for the prompt response. yes I disconnect the pump output and turn the engine over for a few seconds with the compression releases open. I have a good stream immediately, for that reason know that the pump is working, when I change the impeller the old one was intact. Regarding the muffler, I presume that is working because the fumes come out, if the heat exchanger,is clogged, that means that I have to open the engine? Jorge |
engine overheating
You're right except that the exhaust elbow isn't part of the muffler (assuming
he actually has a muffler). And his engine is a 2GM20F which is fresh water cooled, and has a heat exchanger bolted on (but certainly distinct from) the manifold. "Rich Hampel" wrote in message ... In article , jzlatar-genesis wrote: Regarding the muffler, I presume that is working because the fumes come out, NO NO NO NO NO NO ..... fumes AND water need to come out of the exhaust system. If you have water up to the engine as per your prior inspection, then open/disconnect the water exit hose of the exhaust manifold; if flow then you probably have a 'salted' injection elbow, if no flow then you probably have a fouled exhaust manifold. Cast irion exhaust manifolds can fail in two ways: corrosion of the base metal that issues huge platelettes' of rust that lodge in and block the flow channels ..... or the deposition of carbonate salts (boiler scale fouling). What engine do you have? if the heat exchanger,is clogged, that means that I have to open the engine? |
engine overheating
You're right except that the exhaust elbow isn't part of the muffler (assuming
he actually has a muffler). And his engine is a 2GM20F which is fresh water cooled, and has a heat exchanger bolted on (but certainly distinct from) the manifold. "Rich Hampel" wrote in message ... In article , jzlatar-genesis wrote: Regarding the muffler, I presume that is working because the fumes come out, NO NO NO NO NO NO ..... fumes AND water need to come out of the exhaust system. If you have water up to the engine as per your prior inspection, then open/disconnect the water exit hose of the exhaust manifold; if flow then you probably have a 'salted' injection elbow, if no flow then you probably have a fouled exhaust manifold. Cast irion exhaust manifolds can fail in two ways: corrosion of the base metal that issues huge platelettes' of rust that lodge in and block the flow channels ..... or the deposition of carbonate salts (boiler scale fouling). What engine do you have? if the heat exchanger,is clogged, that means that I have to open the engine? |
engine overheating
On Mon, 19 Jan 2004 16:40:56 -0500, "Jeff Morris"
wrote: And his engine is a 2GM20F which is fresh water cooled, and has a heat exchanger bolted on (but certainly distinct from) the manifold. Not sure what you meant by "distinct", but the manifold is part of the heat exchanger assembly. The manifold is at the bottom of the exchanger in the fresh water reservoir. __________________________________________________ __________ Glen "Wiley" Wilson usenet1 SPAMNIX at worldwidewiley dot com To reply, lose the capitals and do the obvious. Take a look at cpRepeater, my NMEA data integrator, repeater, and logger at http://www.worldwidewiley.com/ |
engine overheating
On Mon, 19 Jan 2004 16:40:56 -0500, "Jeff Morris"
wrote: And his engine is a 2GM20F which is fresh water cooled, and has a heat exchanger bolted on (but certainly distinct from) the manifold. Not sure what you meant by "distinct", but the manifold is part of the heat exchanger assembly. The manifold is at the bottom of the exchanger in the fresh water reservoir. __________________________________________________ __________ Glen "Wiley" Wilson usenet1 SPAMNIX at worldwidewiley dot com To reply, lose the capitals and do the obvious. Take a look at cpRepeater, my NMEA data integrator, repeater, and logger at http://www.worldwidewiley.com/ |
engine overheating
On Mon, 19 Jan 2004 16:28:18 -0500, "Jeff Morris"
wrote: I've never opened the heat exchanger on my Yanmar - I've done it on a Westerbeke without too much hassle. You should be able to remove the end caps while its on the engine. However, pull the hose that feeds the elbow and repeat the flow test. This will tell you where the problem is. Its a bit of a pain because the elbow fitting has a little ridge on it - this might be a good time to add a "hose pick" to the tool box. Its like a screwdriver with a bent point for a tip - you work it around to loosen the hose. On other thing to invest in is a parts book. This includes blowup diagrams of everything so you can see what you're up against. Torrenson is a good source, as is Mack Boring or Mastry in the USA. Good advice. Also, the Yanmar Service Guide is excellent, and not too expensive. For instance, it tells you exactly what volume of water you should be pumping. For the original poster, opening the heat exchanger is usually pretty easy, but I think it's your last resort. Since you say you are getting no waterflow at all, the heat exchanger core is not my first guess for the problem. It has a lot of small tubes, any one of which is easy to clog, but the rest would still be open. The core is over $1000 to replace, so I wouldn't screw with it unless I TOTALLY knew what I was doing. If you do have to do it, you'll probably need to remove both end caps. Look carefully at the caps and the gaskets and the packing. You'll be glad when it comes time to put everything back together. If you're lucky, the core will slide right out. If not, you'll need to force it with something like a large wooden dowel. It's a tight fit by design. If some deposits have built up around the core, it can be a real pain. Be careful. $1000! Theoretically, the core can slide out either direction, but the engine box will probably leave you only one way to go. You'll probably need to remove the exhaust pipe as well as the end caps, so this might be a good time to replace the mixing elbow we talked about. The question now is what are you going to do with the core. You can rod it out, carefully. The copper tubes are not really strong. If you need to clean it, you can take it to a radiator shop as long as they don't use acid. A good acid bath will leave you with an interesting metal tube to play with after you install the new core you bought for over $1000. (Have I mentioned that it's over $1000?) You might try Marsolve, but I have no experience with it. Finally, internet advice is worth what you paid for it. If you bugger it up, it's not my fault! __________________________________________________ __________ Glen "Wiley" Wilson usenet1 SPAMNIX at worldwidewiley dot com To reply, lose the capitals and do the obvious. Take a look at cpRepeater, my NMEA data integrator, repeater, and logger at http://www.worldwidewiley.com/ |
engine overheating
On Mon, 19 Jan 2004 16:28:18 -0500, "Jeff Morris"
wrote: I've never opened the heat exchanger on my Yanmar - I've done it on a Westerbeke without too much hassle. You should be able to remove the end caps while its on the engine. However, pull the hose that feeds the elbow and repeat the flow test. This will tell you where the problem is. Its a bit of a pain because the elbow fitting has a little ridge on it - this might be a good time to add a "hose pick" to the tool box. Its like a screwdriver with a bent point for a tip - you work it around to loosen the hose. On other thing to invest in is a parts book. This includes blowup diagrams of everything so you can see what you're up against. Torrenson is a good source, as is Mack Boring or Mastry in the USA. Good advice. Also, the Yanmar Service Guide is excellent, and not too expensive. For instance, it tells you exactly what volume of water you should be pumping. For the original poster, opening the heat exchanger is usually pretty easy, but I think it's your last resort. Since you say you are getting no waterflow at all, the heat exchanger core is not my first guess for the problem. It has a lot of small tubes, any one of which is easy to clog, but the rest would still be open. The core is over $1000 to replace, so I wouldn't screw with it unless I TOTALLY knew what I was doing. If you do have to do it, you'll probably need to remove both end caps. Look carefully at the caps and the gaskets and the packing. You'll be glad when it comes time to put everything back together. If you're lucky, the core will slide right out. If not, you'll need to force it with something like a large wooden dowel. It's a tight fit by design. If some deposits have built up around the core, it can be a real pain. Be careful. $1000! Theoretically, the core can slide out either direction, but the engine box will probably leave you only one way to go. You'll probably need to remove the exhaust pipe as well as the end caps, so this might be a good time to replace the mixing elbow we talked about. The question now is what are you going to do with the core. You can rod it out, carefully. The copper tubes are not really strong. If you need to clean it, you can take it to a radiator shop as long as they don't use acid. A good acid bath will leave you with an interesting metal tube to play with after you install the new core you bought for over $1000. (Have I mentioned that it's over $1000?) You might try Marsolve, but I have no experience with it. Finally, internet advice is worth what you paid for it. If you bugger it up, it's not my fault! __________________________________________________ __________ Glen "Wiley" Wilson usenet1 SPAMNIX at worldwidewiley dot com To reply, lose the capitals and do the obvious. Take a look at cpRepeater, my NMEA data integrator, repeater, and logger at http://www.worldwidewiley.com/ |
engine overheating
You could be right - I stupidly left my Yanmar books on the boat which is now
sealed up! But still, the actual heat exchanger tubes can be pulled out of the assembly and cleaned out. I didn't think they could get "salted." "Glen "Wiley" Wilson" wrote in message ... On Mon, 19 Jan 2004 16:40:56 -0500, "Jeff Morris" wrote: And his engine is a 2GM20F which is fresh water cooled, and has a heat exchanger bolted on (but certainly distinct from) the manifold. Not sure what you meant by "distinct", but the manifold is part of the heat exchanger assembly. The manifold is at the bottom of the exchanger in the fresh water reservoir. __________________________________________________ __________ Glen "Wiley" Wilson usenet1 SPAMNIX at worldwidewiley dot com To reply, lose the capitals and do the obvious. Take a look at cpRepeater, my NMEA data integrator, repeater, and logger at http://www.worldwidewiley.com/ |
engine overheating
You could be right - I stupidly left my Yanmar books on the boat which is now
sealed up! But still, the actual heat exchanger tubes can be pulled out of the assembly and cleaned out. I didn't think they could get "salted." "Glen "Wiley" Wilson" wrote in message ... On Mon, 19 Jan 2004 16:40:56 -0500, "Jeff Morris" wrote: And his engine is a 2GM20F which is fresh water cooled, and has a heat exchanger bolted on (but certainly distinct from) the manifold. Not sure what you meant by "distinct", but the manifold is part of the heat exchanger assembly. The manifold is at the bottom of the exchanger in the fresh water reservoir. __________________________________________________ __________ Glen "Wiley" Wilson usenet1 SPAMNIX at worldwidewiley dot com To reply, lose the capitals and do the obvious. Take a look at cpRepeater, my NMEA data integrator, repeater, and logger at http://www.worldwidewiley.com/ |
engine overheating
I have been trying to get the manual or part catalog for the Yanmar
2GM20F but in Santiago Chile is a bit hard, Y have ordered it to Yanmar directly. My question...Does any body have a photocopy that can send me to my mail? I mean scanned, only the page where the heat exchange is? Thanks in advance Jorge -Genesis |
engine overheating
I have been trying to get the manual or part catalog for the Yanmar
2GM20F but in Santiago Chile is a bit hard, Y have ordered it to Yanmar directly. My question...Does any body have a photocopy that can send me to my mail? I mean scanned, only the page where the heat exchange is? Thanks in advance Jorge -Genesis |
engine overheating
jzlatar-genesis wrote:
I have been trying to get the manual or part catalog for the Yanmar 2GM20F ... It's avail;able on this page: http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/ya...ar&sku=A0A1361 -- Good luck and good sailing. s/v Kerry Deare of Barnegat http://kerrydeare.tripod.com |
engine overheating
jzlatar-genesis wrote:
I have been trying to get the manual or part catalog for the Yanmar 2GM20F ... It's avail;able on this page: http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/ya...ar&sku=A0A1361 -- Good luck and good sailing. s/v Kerry Deare of Barnegat http://kerrydeare.tripod.com |
engine overheating
"jzlatar-genesis" wrote in message
om... I have a yanmar 2GM20F installed in a Plenamar 300 with the following problem, No water coming out of the exhaust pipe with the result of overheating and the pump is working with a new impeller, what could be the reason for it and the solution. Thanks in advance Jzlatar-geminis 1 Check salt water intake cock is open 2 Check intake filter is not blocked (jelly fish, seaweed, plastic) 3 Open intake cock with filter out, check water flows. If it doesn't, there's an external blockage. If it flows, go to 4. 4 Detach outlet pipe from salt water pump, turn engine over (stop switch held in), water should flow out. if it does, go to 5. 4a If it doesn't, check priming height. Some pumps aren't very good at priming more than 2m. If priming height is OK, take cover of pump off and check pump vanes are turning. If vanes are turning, replace cover with screws only gently tightened and see if water comes out. If it does, tighten up and see if flow stops. If flow stops you've got a sheer failure in the pump impeller. The cause may be an overlength impeller, an impeller tight on its spindle, or an under thickness gasket. 5 If 4 shows good water flow, detach salt outlet from heat exchanger manifold, turn over and see if there's flow. If not, you have blockage at the heat exchanger inlet end (quite common) due to build up of carbonates. Clean out with reverse flow. If there's good flow, go to 6. 6 Check the exhaust elbow for carbonate build up and corrosion. That should find the problem for you. Have fun. It's called yachting. -- JimB Yacht Rapaz, sadly for sale: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jim.bae...ecification.ht m jim(dot)baerselman(at)ntlworld(dot)com |
engine overheating
"jzlatar-genesis" wrote in message
om... I have a yanmar 2GM20F installed in a Plenamar 300 with the following problem, No water coming out of the exhaust pipe with the result of overheating and the pump is working with a new impeller, what could be the reason for it and the solution. Thanks in advance Jzlatar-geminis 1 Check salt water intake cock is open 2 Check intake filter is not blocked (jelly fish, seaweed, plastic) 3 Open intake cock with filter out, check water flows. If it doesn't, there's an external blockage. If it flows, go to 4. 4 Detach outlet pipe from salt water pump, turn engine over (stop switch held in), water should flow out. if it does, go to 5. 4a If it doesn't, check priming height. Some pumps aren't very good at priming more than 2m. If priming height is OK, take cover of pump off and check pump vanes are turning. If vanes are turning, replace cover with screws only gently tightened and see if water comes out. If it does, tighten up and see if flow stops. If flow stops you've got a sheer failure in the pump impeller. The cause may be an overlength impeller, an impeller tight on its spindle, or an under thickness gasket. 5 If 4 shows good water flow, detach salt outlet from heat exchanger manifold, turn over and see if there's flow. If not, you have blockage at the heat exchanger inlet end (quite common) due to build up of carbonates. Clean out with reverse flow. If there's good flow, go to 6. 6 Check the exhaust elbow for carbonate build up and corrosion. That should find the problem for you. Have fun. It's called yachting. -- JimB Yacht Rapaz, sadly for sale: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jim.bae...ecification.ht m jim(dot)baerselman(at)ntlworld(dot)com |
engine overheating
Most likely - fellow a few slips over found a jellyfish in his.
"Ray D" rayd at gis.net wrote in message ... Clogged raw water intake? "jzlatar-genesis" wrote in message om... I have a yanmar 2GM20F installed in a Plenamar 300 with the following problem, No water coming out of the exhaust pipe with the result of overheating and the pump is working with a new impeller, what could be the reason for it and the solution. Thanks in advance Jzlatar-geminis |
engine overheating
Most likely - fellow a few slips over found a jellyfish in his.
"Ray D" rayd at gis.net wrote in message ... Clogged raw water intake? "jzlatar-genesis" wrote in message om... I have a yanmar 2GM20F installed in a Plenamar 300 with the following problem, No water coming out of the exhaust pipe with the result of overheating and the pump is working with a new impeller, what could be the reason for it and the solution. Thanks in advance Jzlatar-geminis |
engine overheating
Jim, very explicit explanation, this afternoon I will follow the
steps, thanks in advance Jorge-Genesis |
engine overheating
Jim, very explicit explanation, this afternoon I will follow the
steps, thanks in advance Jorge-Genesis |
engine overheating
Engine overheating...PROBLEM SOLVED....... It was the exhaust elbow
that had carbonate build up and corrosion. Now the water really flows. Thanks to every body that collaborated with my problem.] Regards... Jorge- GENESIS |
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