"Jonathan" wrote in message
...
Thanks Glen, I'll check that out.

The point here is weight saving, so he hopes to be rid of the
exchanger
tank, the additional pump, etc.

As the engine is used for battery charging, we will need to
install a
loop to recycle heated water through the engine, as the raw
water in the
Southern Ocean would cause the engine to run a little too cool


How practical is it to redesign the cooling system against the
cost and the few pounds of weight. Ok, we have a large budget so
cost not a factor, but would the weight gain be that great as you
are tossing out a recalculating system that works well in cold
waters to replace it with another system of almost the same type
to do the same thing. I realize that weight or the lack of in a
ULDB is critical, but IMHO, I don't think this is a good
solution.

Leanne

Good point !
One more addition ..... if you convert the engine from fresh to raw
water cooling you MUST also change the thermostat to one that opens at
135 deg. F. Sal****er will precipitate carbonates (from raw water)
when higher than 150 deg. F. and will foul the internal cooling
passages inside the engine. If you dont change the thermostat then
you must periodically 'pickle' the internal cooling passages with mild
acid (which will also remove engine base metal; alternatively you can
use a commercial descaling organic-acid mix (Marsolve, etc.) that wont
affect removal of the base metal.

With raw water you must remember that if the internals are allowed over
150 deg. F. .... then you are forming ROCKS inside the engine.

Hope this helps.

Good point !
One more addition ..... if you convert the engine from fresh to raw
water cooling you MUST also change the thermostat to one that opens at
135 deg. F. Sal****er will precipitate carbonates (from raw water)
when higher than 150 deg. F. and will foul the internal cooling
passages inside the engine. If you dont change the thermostat then
you must periodically 'pickle' the internal cooling passages with mild
acid (which will also remove engine base metal; alternatively you can
use a commercial descaling organic-acid mix (Marsolve, etc.) that wont
affect removal of the base metal.

With raw water you must remember that if the internals are allowed over
150 deg. F. .... then you are forming ROCKS inside the engine.

Hope this helps.

Thanks Glen, I'll check that out.

The point here is weight saving, so he hopes to be rid of the exchanger
tank, the additional pump, etc.

As the engine is used for battery charging, we will need to install a
loop to recycle heated water through the engine, as the raw water in the
Southern Ocean would cause the engine to run a little too cool

thanks for your suggestion.

Jonathan

Glen \"Wiley\" Wilson wrote:
On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 00:42:35 GMT, Jonathan
wrote:


In other parts of the world this engine is raw water cooled, and so the
question posed, is: does anybody reading this group know someone in the
UK or Australia, or anywhere, for that matter, who would assist in
locating a source for this part.


If you don't get what you need, ask he
http://forums.torresen.com/eThreads/view/engines/

Very good source for info. I used to order all my parts from them
before Yanmar in their infinite wisdom decided not to allow me to
choose my provider. By the way, make sure you have the model number
correct (since it isn't your engine.) There is a 3GM, a 3GM30, a
3GM30C, and a 3GM30F. I'd be mildly surprised if the engine in
question isn't a 3GM30F. A quick look at my 3gm30 manual shows that
the kit for converting a raw water cooled engine to fresh water
cooling contains:

fresh water pump
sea water pump (don't know why)
cooling water pipe
heat exchanger (includes exhaust manifold)
subtank
thermostat assy (hotter stat and different cover)
fuel oil pipe assy (different shape, I think)
v-belt, gaskets, bolts, etc.

so you'll need more than just the manifold. I think you will need to
plug the bypass passage as well. Hope this helps.

__________________________________________________ __________
Glen "Wiley" Wilson usenet1 SPAMNIX at worldwidewiley dot com
To reply, lose the capitals and do the obvious.

Take a look at cpRepeater, my NMEA data integrator, repeater, and
logger at http://www.worldwidewiley.com/

On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 00:42:35 GMT, Jonathan
wrote:

In other parts of the world this engine is raw water cooled, and so the
question posed, is: does anybody reading this group know someone in the
UK or Australia, or anywhere, for that matter, who would assist in
locating a source for this part.

If you don't get what you need, ask he
http://forums.torresen.com/eThreads/view/engines/

Very good source for info. I used to order all my parts from them
before Yanmar in their infinite wisdom decided not to allow me to
choose my provider. By the way, make sure you have the model number
correct (since it isn't your engine.) There is a 3GM, a 3GM30, a
3GM30C, and a 3GM30F. I'd be mildly surprised if the engine in
question isn't a 3GM30F. A quick look at my 3gm30 manual shows that
the kit for converting a raw water cooled engine to fresh water
cooling contains:

fresh water pump
sea water pump (don't know why)
cooling water pipe
heat exchanger (includes exhaust manifold)
subtank
thermostat assy (hotter stat and different cover)
fuel oil pipe assy (different shape, I think)
v-belt, gaskets, bolts, etc.

so you'll need more than just the manifold. I think you will need to
plug the bypass passage as well. Hope this helps.

__________________________________________________ __________
Glen "Wiley" Wilson usenet1 SPAMNIX at worldwidewiley dot com
To reply, lose the capitals and do the obvious.

Take a look at cpRepeater, my NMEA data integrator, repeater, and
logger at http://www.worldwidewiley.com/

In article ,
Jonathan wrote:

I spent the past weekend working with Bruce Schwab on his wood, foam and
carbon fiber Open 60, Ocean Planet.

In preparation for the Vendee Globe in November, he is paring as much
weight from the boat as possible, and one thought is changing the Yanmar
3GM diesel to raw water cooling, thereby eliminating the second pump,
the heat exchanger tank, etc.

I have a few friends with the 3GM raw water engine that would probably
happily swap with him ;-)

I seriously suspect any engine shop would trade you even AND maybe ship
it for free.

And on the cold water concerns in a later post: That's what thermostats
are for. Yes, it'll be cool at first, but I suspect Bruce will run the
engine for relatively long periods at relatively high power levels or
he'd have gone to the 2GM or 1GM.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

In article ,
Jonathan wrote:

I spent the past weekend working with Bruce Schwab on his wood, foam and
carbon fiber Open 60, Ocean Planet.

In preparation for the Vendee Globe in November, he is paring as much
weight from the boat as possible, and one thought is changing the Yanmar
3GM diesel to raw water cooling, thereby eliminating the second pump,
the heat exchanger tank, etc.

I have a few friends with the 3GM raw water engine that would probably
happily swap with him ;-)

I seriously suspect any engine shop would trade you even AND maybe ship
it for free.

And on the cold water concerns in a later post: That's what thermostats
are for. Yes, it'll be cool at first, but I suspect Bruce will run the
engine for relatively long periods at relatively high power levels or
he'd have gone to the 2GM or 1GM.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/