On Sun, 04 Jan 2004 19:13:50 GMT, "Jeffrey P. Vasquez"
wrote:



Additional information: (everything Roy says I experienced is exactly
what I experienced, but I'm going to throw in my diagnostics before I get
into that and maybe someone can teach me something about my clinical
method as well). I disconnected the raw water ingress into the water pump
and sea water flowed freely from the hose (after turning on the through-
hull valve). After reconnecting that, I disconnected the hose leading
from the egress of the water pump to the engine block, aimed it at the
bilge and started the motor...nothing coming out. That seemed pretty
definitive to me. (I've left out steps starting with the strainer and all
points in between and skipped to the stuff which I think was clear cut
and supports Roy's analysis).

Btw, I still haven't found the heat sensor; the Yanmar book isn't
particularly clear on some details, I haven't downloaded the S2 manual
PDF yet, etc., but the engine is definitely hot. And it's raw water, not
fresh water (as I understand it).

I may be misunderstanding you here. There is no difficulty telling
visually whether a yanmar is raw cooled or fresh. the heat exchanger
in the fresh-water-cooled engines is a rectangular tank above and to
the right of the cylinder head with a radiator cap in it. It has four
hoses, in and out for both raw and fresh water.

A raw cooled engine does not have this at all.




Rodney Myrvaagnes J36 Gjo/a


Does one child rape really change Strom Thurmond's lifetime record?
For better or worse?

Rodney wrote:
I may be misunderstanding you here. There is no difficulty telling
visually whether a yanmar is raw cooled or fresh. the heat exchanger
in the fresh-water-cooled engines is a rectangular tank above and to
the right of the cylinder head with a radiator cap in it. It has four
hoses, in and out for both raw and fresh water.

A raw cooled engine does not have this at all.

Yes, it's raw. I always leave the door open to be enlightened when I know I
am not an expert.

another problem I have seen on yanmar model 2qm15 is that the Zinc
mounting housing (Salt/raw water cooled) has the hose from the water
pump to the zinc housing mounted in a verticle orientation with the hose
from water pump to zinc housing coming from underneath the zincs house.
When replacing the original hoses I found the zinc had built up a crust
inside the hose under the zinc housing to the point where the hose was
becoming constricted by the build up, might as well replace your zincs
and check for that .

"Jeffrey P. Vasquez" wrote in message news:...

Yes, it's raw.

another problem I have seen on yanmar model 2qm15 is that the Zinc
mounting housing (Salt/raw water cooled) has the hose from the water
pump to the zinc housing mounted in a verticle orientation with the hose
from water pump to zinc housing coming from underneath the zincs house.
When replacing the original hoses I found the zinc had built up a crust
inside the hose under the zinc housing to the point where the hose was
becoming constricted by the build up, might as well replace your zincs
and check for that .

"Jeffrey P. Vasquez" wrote in message news:...

Yes, it's raw.

I've had the same problems with my water pump on my 2GM and three different engineers have thought that the hoses had delaminated, the anti syphon valve had failed or the thermostat had seized. All things that I'd checked anyhow.
It runs from cold for as long as I want pumping water from the back but as soon as I shut it down, sail for a bit and then start it up the pump fails.
My thinking was this - the cam and inside face of the pump have worn enough from sand/silt that a warm engine creates a pressure differential in the cooling system to prevent a failing/failed pump to pump - but running from cold the cooling system, once pumping, will syphon.
However, the notion of the pulley spinning on the spindle (above) also works in my mind, i.e. the pump works and syphons from cold but a hot (and expanded) pulley will not pump although visually all looks good.
I'll check the pulley at the weekend but regardless I'm buying a new pump.
But, here's the thing. A replacement raw pump - about 40 litres a minute costs £366 but a freshwater pump (exactly the same mounts but a bigger impeller) costs £120 and pumps around 50 litres a minute.
I'm sure that the thermostat will regulate the flow through the engine anyway, but has anybody got any experience of increasing the flow in this way? I spoke to Yanmar UK and they told me to fit the raw water pump but had no advice regarding the freshwater pump.

Rodney wrote:
I may be misunderstanding you here. There is no difficulty telling
visually whether a yanmar is raw cooled or fresh. the heat exchanger
in the fresh-water-cooled engines is a rectangular tank above and to
the right of the cylinder head with a radiator cap in it. It has four
hoses, in and out for both raw and fresh water.

A raw cooled engine does not have this at all.

Yes, it's raw. I always leave the door open to be enlightened when I know I
am not an expert.