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Books on Sailing?
Is there a good book out there, that a beginner can read to learn
basic sailing terminology and methods?? Thanks, Andy |
Books on Sailing?
wrote:
Is there a good book out there, that a beginner can read to learn basic sailing terminology and methods?? Thanks, Andy http://www.paracay.com/Merchant2/mer...ory_Code =BAS I think Colgate's is one of the better starters. Find an old copy of Chapman Piloting and Seamanship for a little wider exposure. Richard |
Books on Sailing?
wrote:
Is there a good book out there, that a beginner can read to learn basic sailing terminology and methods?? Sailing: A Sailor's Dictionary Beard & McKie ISBN: 0-89480-144-9 Have fun. Lew |
Books on Sailing?
Barnes and Noble has about three shelves worth.
================================= wrote in message ups.com... Is there a good book out there, that a beginner can read to learn basic sailing terminology and methods?? Thanks, Andy |
Books on Sailing?
cavelamb himself wrote:
wrote: Is there a good book out there, that a beginner can read to learn basic sailing terminology and methods?? Thanks, Andy I'd recommend the Annapolis Sailing School textbook, or perhaps the one used by the Coast Guard Auxiliary for their Basic Sailing Course. Otherwise you will be looking at the equivalent of a dictionary combined with an encyclopedia - something that you use to find the answer to a question rather than a textbook for instruction. |
Books on Sailing?
wrote in message
ups.com... Is there a good book out there, that a beginner can read to learn basic sailing terminology and methods?? Thanks, Andy I'd second Richard's (cavelamb) suggestion. USSailing uses the Basic Keelboat book. It's not bad, but has some basic errors/omissions in it. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
Books on Sailing?
"Capt. JG" wrote
I'd second Richard's (cavelamb) suggestion. USSailing uses the Basic Keelboat book. It's not bad, but has some basic errors/omissions in it. I'm thinking about getting myself a copy of BK. What should I look out for, error-wise? |
Books on Sailing?
"Ernest Scribbler" wrote in message
et... "Capt. JG" wrote I'd second Richard's (cavelamb) suggestion. USSailing uses the Basic Keelboat book. It's not bad, but has some basic errors/omissions in it. I'm thinking about getting myself a copy of BK. What should I look out for, error-wise? The errors are minor. One omission that I don't understand... not including how to tie a cleat hitch. The other is the calculation for anchor scope. They say 7:1 which is correct, but then say the total in 10 feet of water is 70, but that doesn't include the distance from the water to the deck where the anchor is located. I suppose on a small boat it doesn't matter, but for larger boats it does matter, especially if you're anchoring with less than 7:1 thinking you need less. I can't think of anything else right off. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
Books on Sailing?
Capt. JG wrote:
The errors are minor. One omission that I don't understand... not including how to tie a cleat hitch. The other is the calculation for anchor scope. They say 7:1 which is correct ... There is nothing _wrong_ with 7:1, but at the same time there is nothing I know of that would lead one to label it "correct." Sometimes it's fine, sometimes too little, sometimes too much. I am assuming of course good, heavy, quality mooring gear and more than a merely nominal amount of chain. -- Good luck and good sailing. s/v Kerry Deare of Barnegat http://home.comcast.net/~kerrydeare |
Books on Sailing?
"Armond Perretta" wrote in message
. .. Capt. JG wrote: The errors are minor. One omission that I don't understand... not including how to tie a cleat hitch. The other is the calculation for anchor scope. They say 7:1 which is correct ... There is nothing _wrong_ with 7:1, but at the same time there is nothing I know of that would lead one to label it "correct." Sometimes it's fine, sometimes too little, sometimes too much. I am assuming of course good, heavy, quality mooring gear and more than a merely nominal amount of chain. -- Good luck and good sailing. s/v Kerry Deare of Barnegat http://home.comcast.net/~kerrydeare Well, this is a newbie asking, so I don't like to get so complicated. The version I have doesn't describe the ratio properly. There are lots of considerations when anchoring. He asked about a book. I answered. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
Books on Sailing?
wrote in message
... On Fri, 7 Sep 2007 15:18:18 -0700, "Capt. JG" wrote: "Ernest Scribbler" wrote in message news:U6qdnSTsEfAGAXzbnZ2dnUVZ_sSlnZ2d@wvfibernet .net... "Capt. JG" wrote I'd second Richard's (cavelamb) suggestion. USSailing uses the Basic Keelboat book. It's not bad, but has some basic errors/omissions in it. I'm thinking about getting myself a copy of BK. What should I look out for, error-wise? The errors are minor. One omission that I don't understand... not including how to tie a cleat hitch. The other is the calculation for anchor scope. They say 7:1 which is correct, but then say the total in 10 feet of water is 70, but that doesn't include the distance from the water to the deck where the anchor is located. I suppose on a small boat it doesn't matter, but for larger boats it does matter, especially if you're anchoring with less than 7:1 thinking you need less. I can't think of anything else right off. Most texts include the freeboard as part of the calculation, but never mention the importance of calculating those figures based on high tide. That's even more important in many areas, where the tide swing may be 6, 8 or even more feet. If you just go by the texts, you might think you can determine how much rode to let out based on what your depth sounder says at the time of deployment. That could be a fatal miscalculation. Since these books and classes are designed for newbies, that needs to be stated emphatically. It usually isn't. There are many other variables as well. Use of a kellet can reduce the scope needed. Weather conditions, bottom type, and other considerations are also very important. I think the 7:1 rule is truly just a very rough baseline to start from. It's a minimum requirement. One rule that is hard to exceed: If you have enough clear swing room, you probably can't have too much scope. Oh yeah... always have at least one extra complete anchor and rode in case you lose your primary. It should be as capable as the primary setup in all regards. If your properly sized primary is a 25 pound bruce, that's what your spare should be. **** happens. Sure thing... all of that. It just wasn't the question. :-) -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
Books on Sailing?
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Books on Sailing?
wrote in message
... On Fri, 7 Sep 2007 21:49:50 -0700, "Capt. JG" wrote: wrote in message . .. On Fri, 7 Sep 2007 15:18:18 -0700, "Capt. JG" wrote: "Ernest Scribbler" wrote in message news:U6qdnSTsEfAGAXzbnZ2dnUVZ_sSlnZ2d@wvfibern et.net... "Capt. JG" wrote I'd second Richard's (cavelamb) suggestion. USSailing uses the Basic Keelboat book. It's not bad, but has some basic errors/omissions in it. I'm thinking about getting myself a copy of BK. What should I look out for, error-wise? The errors are minor. One omission that I don't understand... not including how to tie a cleat hitch. The other is the calculation for anchor scope. They say 7:1 which is correct, but then say the total in 10 feet of water is 70, but that doesn't include the distance from the water to the deck where the anchor is located. I suppose on a small boat it doesn't matter, but for larger boats it does matter, especially if you're anchoring with less than 7:1 thinking you need less. I can't think of anything else right off. Most texts include the freeboard as part of the calculation, but never mention the importance of calculating those figures based on high tide. That's even more important in many areas, where the tide swing may be 6, 8 or even more feet. If you just go by the texts, you might think you can determine how much rode to let out based on what your depth sounder says at the time of deployment. That could be a fatal miscalculation. Since these books and classes are designed for newbies, that needs to be stated emphatically. It usually isn't. There are many other variables as well. Use of a kellet can reduce the scope needed. Weather conditions, bottom type, and other considerations are also very important. I think the 7:1 rule is truly just a very rough baseline to start from. It's a minimum requirement. One rule that is hard to exceed: If you have enough clear swing room, you probably can't have too much scope. Oh yeah... always have at least one extra complete anchor and rode in case you lose your primary. It should be as capable as the primary setup in all regards. If your properly sized primary is a 25 pound bruce, that's what your spare should be. **** happens. Sure thing... all of that. It just wasn't the question. :-) I was responding to the mention of how to calculate scope, and the incompleteness on that subject in the book. I know. However, I don't think it would be appropriate to go into a lot of stuff in a book such as that, which is really designed to teach the basics... e.g., the use of kellets. Much of this, even if discussed goes in one ear and out the other for beginners. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
Books on Sailing?
"Wayne.B" wrote in message
... On Fri, 07 Sep 2007 19:41:59 -0400, wrote: Use of a kellet can reduce the scope needed. This is a common misconception but it's not true. A kellet can be useful for reducing swing radius in light to moderate winds, and may make an anchor easier to set, but it is dangerous to rely on a kellet to reduce scope. Under heavy load the anchor rode will be pulled taut regardless, negating the effect of the kellet weight. I agree somewhat... I wouldn't use it to reduce scope. I would use it to augment holding, especially if you don't have an all chain rode. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
Books on Sailing?
"Capt. JG" wrote
Well, this is a newbie asking, so I don't like to get so complicated. Thanks, this newbie appreciates forebearance. What I find is that I might learn a few things that I can personally use from a typical sailing book, but the bulk of it tends to be stuff that I can't find much use for considering I do all my cruising on an inland river. For example, knowing how to maintain optimum catenary on my anchor rode is not nearly as useful to me, in my circumstances, as knowing how to hug the bank as a coal barge goes by. |
Books on Sailing?
Ernest Scribbler wrote:
"Capt. JG" wrote Well, this is a newbie asking, so I don't like to get so complicated. Thanks, this newbie appreciates forebearance. What I find is that I might learn a few things that I can personally use from a typical sailing book, but the bulk of it tends to be stuff that I can't find much use for considering I do all my cruising on an inland river. For example, knowing how to maintain optimum catenary on my anchor rode is not nearly as useful to me, in my circumstances, as knowing how to hug the bank as a coal barge goes by. I'm glad you understand that much of the advice will be overkill. People here like to discuss how their boat is setup for world cruising. Being prepared for one hurricane is not enough; you half to be prepared to handle 3 in one week! For instance, invoking the very concept the "catenary" is pedantic and not relevant to practical anchoring. The problem is that once a chain has completely assumed the catenary shape, it is virtually fully extended and about to be broken out. The purpose of an all chain rode or a kellet is to minimize the catenary and keep as much of the rode as possible sitting on the bottom. Likewise, the advise to have a duplicate of the primary anchor on hand may be appropriate for the world cruiser who must be prepared for anything, but is perhaps overkill for the "weekend warrior." Better advice might be to size the primary anchor one size up from the store recommendations, and have a second anchor that at least matches the recommendations. (Most boaters only have what cruisers would consider a "lunch hook.") Some people will advise only using all-chain, but if you don't have a windlass this could be a problem. And, on some bottoms chain can actually prevent anchors anchors from setting. The only thing you, as a beginner, can do, is find someone knowledgeable about anchoring your type of boat in your area, and pick their brain. Even then, you should take all advice with a grain of salt! As for books, there have been a number of good recommendations. Personally, I often advise Chapman's Piloting & Seamanship for beginners. It covers many aspects of boating, and although the advice is not very sophisticated, it is a sound foundation for the novice. |
Books on Sailing?
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Books on Sailing?
"jeff" wrote in message
. .. Ernest Scribbler wrote: "Capt. JG" wrote Well, this is a newbie asking, so I don't like to get so complicated. Thanks, this newbie appreciates forebearance. What I find is that I might learn a few things that I can personally use from a typical sailing book, but the bulk of it tends to be stuff that I can't find much use for considering I do all my cruising on an inland river. For example, knowing how to maintain optimum catenary on my anchor rode is not nearly as useful to me, in my circumstances, as knowing how to hug the bank as a coal barge goes by. I'm glad you understand that much of the advice will be overkill. People here like to discuss how their boat is setup for world cruising. Being prepared for one hurricane is not enough; you half to be prepared to handle 3 in one week! Or, even better yet, stay out of the way. :-) For instance, invoking the very concept the "catenary" is pedantic and not relevant to practical anchoring. The problem is that once a chain has completely assumed the catenary shape, it is virtually fully extended and about to be broken out. The purpose of an all chain rode or a kellet is to minimize the catenary and keep as much of the rode as possible sitting on the bottom. Yep... nice explanation Jeff. Likewise, the advise to have a duplicate of the primary anchor on hand may be appropriate for the world cruiser who must be prepared for anything, but is perhaps overkill for the "weekend warrior." Better advice might be to size the primary anchor one size up from the store recommendations, and have a second anchor that at least matches the recommendations. (Most boaters only have what cruisers would consider a "lunch hook.") I have a small Bruce and a small Danforth. While in Belize on a rental cat, I found that their secondary anchor, also a Dan, set better than the much heavier plow. Some people will advise only using all-chain, but if you don't have a windlass this could be a problem. And, on some bottoms chain can actually prevent anchors anchors from setting. The only thing you, as a beginner, can do, is find someone knowledgeable about anchoring your type of boat in your area, and pick their brain. Even then, you should take all advice with a grain of salt! As for books, there have been a number of good recommendations. Personally, I often advise Chapman's Piloting & Seamanship for beginners. It covers many aspects of boating, and although the advice is not very sophisticated, it is a sound foundation for the novice. Yup.. you can get an older version for a very modest price... no need to spend the big bucks on the latest. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
Books on Sailing?
On 2007-09-08 14:00:14 -0400, jeff said:
For instance, invoking the very concept the "catenary" is pedantic and not relevant to practical anchoring. The problem is that once a chain has completely assumed the catenary shape, it is virtually fully extended and about to be broken out. The purpose of an all chain rode or a kellet is to minimize the catenary and keep as much of the rode as possible sitting on the bottom. Oops! You got catenary backwards: Catenary: "a curve formed by a wire, rope, or chain hanging freely from two points that are on the same horizontal level." (okay, the two points on an anchor aren't on the same horizontal level, but you get the idea.) When the chain *loses* it's catenary, it's fully extended and the stress on the anchor is substantial. Also, I find it most useful to have an anchor of a different type than the primary for short-distance cruising. -- Jere Lull Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD Xan's new pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/ Our BVI pages: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ |
Books on Sailing?
Jere Lull wrote:
On 2007-09-08 14:00:14 -0400, jeff said: For instance, invoking the very concept the "catenary" is pedantic and not relevant to practical anchoring. The problem is that once a chain has completely assumed the catenary shape, it is virtually fully extended and about to be broken out. The purpose of an all chain rode or a kellet is to minimize the catenary and keep as much of the rode as possible sitting on the bottom. Oops! You got catenary backwards: Nope, I have it right. Catenary: "a curve formed by a wire, rope, or chain hanging freely from two points that are on the same horizontal level." (okay, the two points on an anchor aren't on the same horizontal level, but you get the idea.) Actually, the curve of the anchor chain is a "half catenary;" you work out the math assuming twice as much chain. When the chain *loses* it's catenary, it's fully extended and the stress on the anchor is substantial. Nope. Its essentially physically impossible to lose the catenary that way. The fully extended point is when the full chain is in the catenary shape. Anything short of this and there will be chain sitting on the bottom, and a shorter catenary to the the boat. In practice, most of the the chain will be sitting on the bottom, and the only catenary will really be near vertical. In this mode, any force on the vessel will be absorbed in lifting the chain off the bottom - this is where the virtue of an all chain rode (or a kellet) lies. Getting back to the "almost fully extended" point. It is impossible to make the chain literally "rod-straight" so the catenary can never quite be lost, only reduced. Sometime people claim that in the process of "reducing the catenary" there is significant shock absorbing, but this is a fallacy. The problem is that there is little extension left at this point as there is only a few inches left before the anchor is pulled out. My point is that the shock absorbing is not in the catenary, it is in the chain lying on the bottom that will get lifted as the force increases. Consideration of the catenary does nothing for the understanding of this phenomenon - you might just as well think of the chain as a straight line form the point where it departs from the bottom to where it gets to the bow. Also, I find it most useful to have an anchor of a different type than the primary for short-distance cruising. I certainly agree with that - I'm always amazed when I see two CQR's on the bow of a cruising boat. FWIW, I use a 35# Delta with 50 feet of chain as a primary, and a Fortress FX-23 with 12 feet of chain as a secondary. A Danforth and spare rode is in a locker; if I cruise extensively I carry a large Fortress broken down. |
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