Mast wiring connectors.
 

"terry" wrote

Thanks Lew. Yes the RG58 wil have a loss of about 3 Db along the
approx 50 feet from VHF to the mast head.

So buy a 100 ft put up of marine grade RG8 and split it with your dock
partner.

RG58 is pure garbage when it comes to a marine application.

Yes we toyed with idea of multi pole / multi throw switches but
opted
for simplicity. If/when sailing or motoring at night one is going to
check light by glancing up.

There is nothing quite so simple as cross wired switches.

People screw up.

Hard wired automation doesn't.

Absolutely prevents screw ups which is guarenteed to impress the
judge, if necessary.

Couple of switches doesn't cost that much.

Question: We have a strobe which can be mounted on top of the
aforementioned trilight/anchor light assembly to be on its own
separate switch and used rarely if ever.

Damn things are not legal as a sailing, forget about it.

Thanks for tip about running wires inside mast on a messenger.

More important to also do that with the RG8.

Lew

Mast wiring connectors.
 

On Mon, 27 Aug 2007 10:06:43 -0700, in message

"Capt. JG" wrote:

Sometimes people do motorsail
with their sails full when they're in get-there mode (not that I think it
helps much, but they do).

I find that wind in the sails that would give me about 4 knots and a
low engine throttle setting that would give me about 4 knots can
combine to give me over 6. I can't get to 6 under engine alone without
just gobbling down the fuel and making a lot of noise. So it's faster,
more pleasant, cheaper, and more environmentally friendly than just
proceeding under power when time is a factor.

OTOH, I like it much better when time isn't a factor and I can just
ghost along contentedly at 3 or 4 knots.

Ryk

Mast wiring connectors.
 

"Ryk" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 27 Aug 2007 10:06:43 -0700, in message

"Capt. JG" wrote:

Sometimes people do motorsail
with their sails full when they're in get-there mode (not that I think it
helps much, but they do).

I find that wind in the sails that would give me about 4 knots and a
low engine throttle setting that would give me about 4 knots can
combine to give me over 6. I can't get to 6 under engine alone without
just gobbling down the fuel and making a lot of noise. So it's faster,
more pleasant, cheaper, and more environmentally friendly than just
proceeding under power when time is a factor.

OTOH, I like it much better when time isn't a factor and I can just
ghost along contentedly at 3 or 4 knots.

Ryk



I suppose this depends on wind speed. If you're travelling at hull speed for
your heel, then no amount of engine is going to get you faster.


--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Mast wiring connectors.
 

On Mon, 27 Aug 2007 20:59:14 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

... I can't get to 6 under engine alone without
just gobbling down the fuel and making a lot of noise. So it's faster,
more pleasant, cheaper, and more environmentally friendly than just
proceeding under power when time is a factor.

OTOH, I like it much better when time isn't a factor and I can just
ghost along contentedly at 3 or 4 knots.

Ryk



I suppose this depends on wind speed. If you're travelling at hull speed for
your heel, then no amount of engine is going to get you faster.

The meaning is clear. But recall that enough engine WILL put you over
hull speed.

Brian W

Mast wiring connectors.
 

On Tue, 28 Aug 2007 08:03:48 -0500, in message

Brian Whatcott wrote:

On Mon, 27 Aug 2007 20:59:14 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

... I can't get to 6 under engine alone without
just gobbling down the fuel and making a lot of noise. So it's faster,
more pleasant, cheaper, and more environmentally friendly than just
proceeding under power when time is a factor.

OTOH, I like it much better when time isn't a factor and I can just
ghost along contentedly at 3 or 4 knots.

Ryk



I suppose this depends on wind speed. If you're travelling at hull speed for
your heel, then no amount of engine is going to get you faster.

The meaning is clear. But recall that enough engine WILL put you over
hull speed.

IME sails are much more effective if you want to get a sail boat to go
over hull speed, as long as you have some breeze.

Ryk

Mast wiring connectors.
 

"Ryk" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 28 Aug 2007 08:03:48 -0500, in message

Brian Whatcott wrote:

On Mon, 27 Aug 2007 20:59:14 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

... I can't get to 6 under engine alone without
just gobbling down the fuel and making a lot of noise. So it's faster,
more pleasant, cheaper, and more environmentally friendly than just
proceeding under power when time is a factor.

OTOH, I like it much better when time isn't a factor and I can just
ghost along contentedly at 3 or 4 knots.

Ryk



I suppose this depends on wind speed. If you're travelling at hull speed
for
your heel, then no amount of engine is going to get you faster.

The meaning is clear. But recall that enough engine WILL put you over
hull speed.

IME sails are much more effective if you want to get a sail boat to go
over hull speed, as long as you have some breeze.

Ryk



Huh?

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/technic.../hullspeed.htm


--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Mast wiring connectors.
 

wrote in message
...

Despite what that article says, you can absolutely exceed hull speed
using sails alone. Think of hull speed as the point where the law of
diminishing returns kicks in. To go slightly faster, you need a LOT
more power beyond that point.



This is one of those "Yes, but" things. Yes, you can go faster than hull
speed with enough power, but there is still a limit. And there's a point at
which your rig simply can't stand up to that much power, and you are
dismasted. Surfing allows a boat to go much faster than hull speed, but it's
also tricky and requires expert helmsmanship.

Mast wiring connectors.
 

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 28 Aug 2007 14:04:55 -0500, "KLC Lewis"
wrote:


wrote in message
. ..

Despite what that article says, you can absolutely exceed hull speed
using sails alone. Think of hull speed as the point where the law of
diminishing returns kicks in. To go slightly faster, you need a LOT
more power beyond that point.



This is one of those "Yes, but" things. Yes, you can go faster than hull
speed with enough power, but there is still a limit. And there's a point
at
which your rig simply can't stand up to that much power, and you are
dismasted. Surfing allows a boat to go much faster than hull speed, but
it's
also tricky and requires expert helmsmanship.


Surfing is not required to exceed hull speed using just sails alone.
It is not a "yes but thing", either.

Where did your addition of "yes, but there is a limit" come from? If
you want to start moviong the goalposts, I guarantee, that if you
attach a big enough rocket engine to a sailboat, it will go a lot
faster than you ever anticipated. The only limit is how much power you
have available, and at what speed, the hull collapses and breaks up.



Rocket engines would be silly. There is a point at which, regardless of how
much engine power you have, the propeller will be unable to do anything but
cavitate and the hull will not go faster through the water because of
drag/resistance. We are talking about displacement vessels, of course.

I did not say that surfing was necessary, I only offered that as an example
where displacement vessels can easily exceed hull speed.

And with wind power, the sails will rip themselves to shreds or the vessel
will be dismasted before the boat will exceed hull speed by any significant
degree.

Can displacement vessels exceed hull speed? Yes, but...

Mast wiring connectors.
 

On Tue, 28 Aug 2007 14:04:55 -0500, "KLC Lewis"
wrote:

This is one of those "Yes, but" things. Yes, you can go faster than hull
speed with enough power, but there is still a limit. And there's a point at
which your rig simply can't stand up to that much power, and you are
dismasted. Surfing allows a boat to go much faster than hull speed, but it's
also tricky and requires expert helmsmanship.

There are sail boats that will plane off at literally 2 and 3 times
theoretical hull speed, skimming along the top of the water. It's all
a function of weight, length, bottom shape, sail area, etc.

Mast wiring connectors.
 

On Tue, 28 Aug 2007 17:53:17 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote:

There are sail boats that will plane off at literally 2 and 3 times
theoretical hull speed, skimming along the top of the water. It's all
a function of weight, length, bottom shape, sail area, etc.

Class A racing scows. 38 feet, 35MPH. At least one of the persons
commenting on hull speed did mention ' displacement hull '.
Hull speed is meaningless for planing hulls.

Casady

Mast wiring connectors.
 

"KLC Lewis" wrote in message
...


Rocket engines would be silly.

almost as silly as putting ballast in empty containers.

..

And with wind power, the sails will rip themselves to
shreds or the vessel
will be dismasted before the boat will exceed hull speed
by any significant
degree.


are you sailing a MacGregor?

SBV

Mast wiring connectors.
 

....
Hull speed is not an absolute, it's an approximate calculation and is not very
precise. ...

If it is to have any meaning at all 1.34*sqrt(L) is a decimal
approximation of the velocity at which a wave created by a single
point will have a length L. You can make it as precise as you want.
It doesn't take any particular magic for displacement vessels to
exceed hull speed. A good power to weight ratio is all it really
takes. In the sail boat world most modern racing multi-hulls exceed
hull speed under sail and virtually all of them are pure displacement
craft. Of course, low powered heavy boats like a typical auxiliary
sailing yacht may have top speed to length ratios much less than
1.34.

-- Tom.

Mast wiring connectors.
 

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 28 Aug 2007 14:04:55 -0500, "KLC Lewis"
wrote:

This is one of those "Yes, but" things. Yes, you can go faster than hull
speed with enough power, but there is still a limit. And there's a point
at
which your rig simply can't stand up to that much power, and you are
dismasted. Surfing allows a boat to go much faster than hull speed, but
it's
also tricky and requires expert helmsmanship.

There are sail boats that will plane off at literally 2 and 3 times
theoretical hull speed, skimming along the top of the water. It's all
a function of weight, length, bottom shape, sail area, etc.

Sure there are -- but they aren't displacement hulls, either.

Mast wiring connectors.
 

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 28 Aug 2007 15:16:33 -0500, "KLC Lewis"
wrote:



Rocket engines would be silly.

No argument


There is a point at which, regardless of how
much engine power you have, the propeller will be unable to do anything
but
cavitate and the hull will not go faster through the water because of
drag/resistance. We are talking about displacement vessels, of course.


Yes, we are

I did not say that surfing was necessary, I only offered that as an
example
where displacement vessels can easily exceed hull speed.


Personally, I define hull speed as a measurement of speed through water",
rather
than "Speed over ground" , so surfing isn't even really part of the
discussion


And with wind power, the sails will rip themselves to shreds or the vessel
will be dismasted before the boat will exceed hull speed by any
significant
degree.


Baloney. Complete baloney.

Can displacement vessels exceed hull speed? Yes, but...


You have given very strong evidence that you don't really understand the
terms
under discussion.

Hull speed is not "speed over ground", it is "speed through the water"

Hull speed is not the same thing as "Top Speed"

Hull speed is not an absolute, it's an approximate calculation and is not
very
precise.

Bottom line: Many sailboats exceed THEORETICAL hull speed all the time,
without
any tricks.



Yes, they do. But do they exceed that theoretical hull speed by a
significant degree? If hull speed is calculated to be 6 knots for a
displacement sailing vessel, can you make that hull move through the water
at 10 knots? 12?

Theoretical hull speed for Escapade is 6.29 knots at her 22' length
waterline. I've had her knotmeter up to 7.6 on several occasions, flirted
with 8 once and it was a true white-knuckle e-ticket ride. How much more
force would it take to get her up to 10 knots? More than can be provided by
her sails with her rig remaining attached to the boat, and more than could
be provided by any engine that could be installed.

Would she go 10 or 12 knots if she was being towed by an aircraft carrier?
Perhaps, but I suspect that she would be sucked under the water.

Mast wiring connectors.
 

"KLC Lewis" wrote in message
et...

Theoretical hull speed for Escapade is 6.29 knots at her 22' length
waterline. I've had her knotmeter up to 7.6 on several occasions, flirted
with 8 once and it was a true white-knuckle e-ticket ride.

As an aside, I should mention that that regardless of the indicated speed on
the knotmeter, which I always view as highly optimistic when it gets over
6.5, our speed over ground as indicated by GPS has never exceeded 6.75.
Upriver, downriver, out in the bay, doesn't matter. I have made no downriver
speed runs to see how fast we can go with the current (varies, but is
usually less than 2 knots). Heading out, I just run the engine slower. We
have no appreciable currents here in Green Bay other than in rivers and at
river mouths when they're running strong. Which is virtually never during
sailing season.

I consider my paddlewheel knotmeter impeller to be highly fallible at high
speed.

Mast wiring connectors.
 

On Tue, 28 Aug 2007 19:44:11 -0500, "KLC Lewis"
wrote:

Sure there are -- but they aren't displacement hulls, either.

That gets you into a new discussion about what is a displacement hull.

I used to race on a boat called a B-29 that had a conventional lead
keel and a conventional spinnaker, a displacement hull to all
appearances. Sail area was a bit on the high side however, and on a
windy broad reach it could get onto plane and do 18 kts, about 3x hull
speed.

Mast wiring connectors.
 

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 28 Aug 2007 19:44:11 -0500, "KLC Lewis"
wrote:

Sure there are -- but they aren't displacement hulls, either.

That gets you into a new discussion about what is a displacement hull.

I used to race on a boat called a B-29 that had a conventional lead
keel and a conventional spinnaker, a displacement hull to all
appearances. Sail area was a bit on the high side however, and on a
windy broad reach it could get onto plane and do 18 kts, about 3x hull
speed.

It strikes me that a boat that can get onto plane isn't a displacement hull,
all appearances aside. :-)

Mast wiring connectors.
 

"KLC Lewis" wrote in
et:


"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 28 Aug 2007 14:04:55 -0500, "KLC Lewis"
wrote:

This is one of those "Yes, but" things. Yes, you can go faster than
hull speed with enough power, but there is still a limit. And there's
a point at
which your rig simply can't stand up to that much power, and you are
dismasted. Surfing allows a boat to go much faster than hull speed,
but it's
also tricky and requires expert helmsmanship.

There are sail boats that will plane off at literally 2 and 3 times
theoretical hull speed, skimming along the top of the water. It's
all a function of weight, length, bottom shape, sail area, etc.

Sure there are -- but they aren't displacement hulls, either.




Depends on how many wakeboarders you're towing...(c;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLMOdhce-Pk

Of course, you can make up for the wakeboarders by only having one
pontoon in the water..without all that drag from rudders and
centerboards.

And, who says a monohull can't keep up with a multihull, anyways?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iWWf1...elated&search=
I think the monohull is passing them!

Larry
--

Mast wiring connectors.
 

terry wrote:

Westerly 1970s all fiberglass 26 footer. Previous owner replaced mast
and rigging but in the process installed deck mounted connectors (good
quality marine type) for the mast wiring that allowed water to get
into a substantial wooden block buried in the deck under the mast
step. That block is further supported by a stainless steel column
that goes down to the keel.

During winter storage the water soaked wood burst the f.glass deck
around the mast step. It's now all replaced.

Now wondering best way to connect the revamped mast wiring (Approx.
seven wires plus an RG58 coax. for the top of the mast VHF whip).**

Certainly resolved to have any wiring holes and/or mounting screws
well away from the wooden block. Also maybe prefer not to have any
connectors at all?

Thats fine if you never have to lower or remove the mast. I would go for
using connectors. My Westerly Cirrus (1971) came with deck connectors.
I have had to replace these a few times over the years, but I never had the
problems you encountered. If the connector is properly seated and sealed
as a thru hull installation, you should not have any problems.

Sherwin D.



That would mean poking the bunch of wires from the mast through
something (a caulked hole or gland or ???) in the deck to be, say,
connected individually once per season to a terminal strip in the
toilet ('Head') compartment below. Pondering various alternatives.

Any advice please would be most appreciated.

BTW ** We now have all the nav. lights on the mast rather than lower
down on the hull and cabin sides of the boat. The original (previously
replaced!) stern light for example was for ever getting stepped on and
damaged. The individual cabin side port/starboard lights had long ago
been replaced by a red/green bow pulpit one that also suffered damage
and or got tangled with jib sheets etc. Any comments/advice on this
also appreciated.

Mast wiring connectors.
 

"sherwindu" wrote in message
...
Thats fine if you never have to lower or remove the mast. I would go
for
using connectors. My Westerly Cirrus (1971) came with deck connectors.
I have had to replace these a few times over the years, but I never had
the
problems you encountered. If the connector is properly seated and
sealed
as a thru hull installation, you should not have any problems.

Sherwin D.


My Sabre has connectors hidden inside the mast under a plate. I'm really
glad I have them, since my steaming light was intermittent and I couldn't
find the problem until I replaced the connectors. Definitely easier than
restringing wire. :-)

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Mast wiring connectors.
 

On Tue, 28 Aug 2007 20:34:28 -0500, in message

"KLC Lewis" wrote:


"Wayne.B" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 28 Aug 2007 19:44:11 -0500, "KLC Lewis"
wrote:

Sure there are -- but they aren't displacement hulls, either.

That gets you into a new discussion about what is a displacement hull.

I used to race on a boat called a B-29 that had a conventional lead
keel and a conventional spinnaker, a displacement hull to all
appearances. Sail area was a bit on the high side however, and on a
windy broad reach it could get onto plane and do 18 kts, about 3x hull
speed.

It strikes me that a boat that can get onto plane isn't a displacement hull,
all appearances aside. :-)

Yes that's true, if you define boats that significantly exceed 1.34
sqrt(LWL) out of the category. There are, however, lots of boats that
depend on a ballast keel for stability, that typically beat to weather
in displacement mode, and can still go through the water much more
quickly in the right conditions.

And going back to my original comment that sparked all this: The vast
majority of the sailboats I'm aware of do have a higher top speed
under sail than under power.

Ryk

Mast wiring connectors.
 

On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 12:33:24 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

My Sabre has connectors hidden inside the mast under a plate. I'm really
glad I have them, since my steaming light was intermittent and I couldn't
find the problem until I replaced the connectors. Definitely easier than
restringing wire.

Since it was the connector caused the problem, I fail to see how
fixing it was easier than leaving a good [continuous] wire alone. The
connector was the problem, not the solution. Simpler is most often
better. You may need to remove the mast, so they put a break in the
wires, at the expense of reliability. Nothing is ever free.

Casady

Mast wiring connectors.
 

"Richard Casady" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 12:33:24 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

My Sabre has connectors hidden inside the mast under a plate. I'm really
glad I have them, since my steaming light was intermittent and I couldn't
find the problem until I replaced the connectors. Definitely easier than
restringing wire.

Since it was the connector caused the problem, I fail to see how
fixing it was easier than leaving a good [continuous] wire alone. The
connector was the problem, not the solution. Simpler is most often
better. You may need to remove the mast, so they put a break in the
wires, at the expense of reliability. Nothing is ever free.

Casady


Nothing is free, but it sure is easier to fix than restringing the wire.
This arrangement allows me to add instrumentation without having to pull
wire around a lot of corners for example. Given that the wiring is at least
in part from 1982, I think it's done pretty well.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Mast wiring connectors.
 

On Tue, 28 Aug 2007 20:34:28 -0500, "KLC Lewis"
wrote:

I used to race on a boat called a B-29 that had a conventional lead
keel and a conventional spinnaker, a displacement hull to all
appearances. Sail area was a bit on the high side however, and on a
windy broad reach it could get onto plane and do 18 kts, about 3x hull
speed.

It strikes me that a boat that can get onto plane isn't a displacement hull,
all appearances aside. :-)

I understand your point but you can get almost any boat with a more or
less flat bottom to plane under the right conditions.

Mast wiring connectors.
 

On Aug 29, 4:51 am, sherwindu wrote:
terry wrote:
Westerly 1970s all fiberglass 26 footer. Previous owner replaced mast
and rigging but in the process installed deck mounted connectors (good
quality marine type) for the mast wiring that allowed water to get
into a substantial wooden block buried in the deck under the mast
step. That block is further supported by a stainless steel column
that goes down to the keel.

During winter storage the water soaked wood burst the f.glass deck
around the mast step. It's now all replaced.

Now wondering best way to connect the revamped mast wiring (Approx.
seven wires plus an RG58 coax. for the top of the mast VHF whip).**

Certainly resolved to have any wiring holes and/or mounting screws
well away from the wooden block. Also maybe prefer not to have any
connectors at all?

Thats fine if you never have to lower or remove the mast. I would go for
using connectors. My Westerly Cirrus (1971) came with deck connectors.
I have had to replace these a few times over the years, but I never had the
problems you encountered. If the connector is properly seated and sealed
as a thru hull installation, you should not have any problems.

Sherwin D.





That would mean poking the bunch of wires from the mast through
something (a caulked hole or gland or ???) in the deck to be, say,
connected individually once per season to a terminal strip in the
toilet ('Head') compartment below. Pondering various alternatives.

Any advice please would be most appreciated.

BTW ** We now have all the nav. lights on the mast rather than lower
down on the hull and cabin sides of the boat. The original (previously
replaced!) stern light for example was for ever getting stepped on and
damaged. The individual cabin side port/starboard lights had long ago
been replaced by a red/green bow pulpit one that also suffered damage
and or got tangled with jib sheets etc. Any comments/advice on this
also appreciated.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks Sherwin but we HAVE had the problem and fixed it. Since there
is only one small hole near bottom of mast through which wires enter
don't feel like enlarging it to poke connectors inside hollow mast.
Although I'd like to do that.
So the choices are;
a) Two connectors (a total of some 7 wires) going to two locations
though the mast plus a VHF coax, hanging from wires and probably taped
or strapped to outside surface of mast.
b) Deck mounted connectors which in view of previous water entry into
the deck and subsequent freezing would have be a long way from mast
base in an area of f.glass only decking. Thus increased chance of
damage and foot tripping etc.
c) Run the wires without connectors through a J pipe permanently
fiberglassed into the deck presently being home made and terminnate
the wires individually on a terminal strip in the toilet compartment.
Reconnect once per year when boat goes in the water.
The total thickness of deck in vicinity of the wooden block under the
mast step is I reckon about 60mm (2 to 2.5 inches. A wooden block or
bearing plate with f.glass above and below it.
This all part of completely rewiring the whole boat. Adding an 80 to
100 amp alternator to the Volvo MD-1in place of the 8 amp starter
generator etc. Note: We'd have to run the engine for about 10 hours to
recharge a flat 60 to 70 amp.hour battery with the original only 8
amps!
Regards.

Mast wiring connectors.
 

On 3 Sep 2007 12:43:02 -0500, in message

Dave wrote:

You're beyond my area of expertise here, but if the principle is that a
power driven vessel is more capable than a sailing vessel of maneuvering to
avoid collision, and the vessel in question merely needs to push the
transmission control lever forward to start the prop spinning, it certainly
wouldn't be irrational to treat the sailing vessel running its engine to
charge batteries as a power driven vessel. The generator, on the other hand,
isn't connected to the prop, so the above reasoning wouldn't apply to it.

On the other hand, a vessel flying sails, even if under power, can be
subject to all the usual requirements for sailing handling while
maneuvering. If I am reaching along with a spinnaker up in twenty
knots of breeze, then the ability to put my engine immediately into
gear does not improve my options to avoid collision.

The information communicated by the conical day shape or the steaming
light is that one is able to maneuver as a power driven vessel. A race
boat charging batteries will give a misleading signal if they indicate
they're under power.

In the case of a modest sized sailboat scarcely moving under sail,
whether with engine on or off, the common sense course is for modest
sized power traffic to avoid it and for the sailboat to make sure it
stays out of the way of larger power traffic with depth and
maneuverability issues. Changes in course and speed like putting the
engine in gear may simply confuse the situation.

Ryk

Mast wiring connectors.
 

"Ryk" wrote in message
...
On 3 Sep 2007 12:43:02 -0500, in message

Dave wrote:

You're beyond my area of expertise here, but if the principle is that a
power driven vessel is more capable than a sailing vessel of maneuvering
to
avoid collision, and the vessel in question merely needs to push the
transmission control lever forward to start the prop spinning, it
certainly
wouldn't be irrational to treat the sailing vessel running its engine to
charge batteries as a power driven vessel. The generator, on the other
hand,
isn't connected to the prop, so the above reasoning wouldn't apply to it.

On the other hand, a vessel flying sails, even if under power, can be
subject to all the usual requirements for sailing handling while
maneuvering. If I am reaching along with a spinnaker up in twenty
knots of breeze, then the ability to put my engine immediately into
gear does not improve my options to avoid collision.


Actually, it would... put your engine in reverse and you'll slow down.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Mast wiring connectors.
 

On Tue, 4 Sep 2007 11:33:08 -0700, in message

"Capt. JG" wrote:

"Ryk" wrote in message
.. .

On the other hand, a vessel flying sails, even if under power, can be
subject to all the usual requirements for sailing handling while
maneuvering. If I am reaching along with a spinnaker up in twenty
knots of breeze, then the ability to put my engine immediately into
gear does not improve my options to avoid collision.


Actually, it would... put your engine in reverse and you'll slow down.

Given the relative size of my engine and my spinnaker, and the
tendency of a folding prop to stay folded while moving forwards, I
don't think it would do much good ;-)

Ryk

Mast wiring connectors.
 

On Aug 23, 1:45 pm, "KLC Lewis" wrote:
"Armond Perretta" wrote in message

...





wrote:

Use a tricolor with an integral anchor light on the mast head and a
motoring light at the spreaders. That should be sufficient.

Bruce in Bangkok

I don't know what the rules are in Bangkok, but in the States and most
European countries the mast light (aka "steaming light") must be mounted
_above_ the other lights (red/green/stern) when under power (or for that
matter when the engine is running even when not in gear)..

This means obviously that using a masthead tricolor with a steaming light
mounted somewhere lower on the mast is in violation.

--
Good luck and good sailing.
s/v Kerry Deare of Barnegat
http://home.comcast.net/~kerrydeare

This is not correct.

http://www.answers.com/topic/navigation-lights- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"The boat must also display a white masthead light visible for 5
miles" taken from your link however the word masthead should read
Steaming... as in the accompanying diagram.