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Anyone know this fuel filter?
Does anyone recognize this fuel filter?
http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Filter.jpg I can't squirm in far enough to find a model number and didn't see anything that looke like it in the marine store. Considering some of the weird stuff I've found on the boat, I don't want to assume that the Racor elements in the spare parts are for it. I also want to be sure it isn't the one referred to in another thread that passes unfiltered fuel if a spacer is left out. If that could be done, the PO of my boat would have done it. -- Roger Long |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
On Fri, 20 Jul 2007 10:50:08 -0400, "Roger Long"
wrote: Does anyone recognize this fuel filter? http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Filter.jpg I can't squirm in far enough to find a model number and didn't see anything that looke like it in the marine store. Considering some of the weird stuff I've found on the boat, I don't want to assume that the Racor elements in the spare parts are for it. I also want to be sure it isn't the one referred to in another thread that passes unfiltered fuel if a spacer is left out. If that could be done, the PO of my boat would have done it. It's a small Racor, probably a 110, definitely not a 500 or 900. Those are larger and have a "T" handle on top. http://tinyurl.com/2ucdje |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
"Roger Long" wrote in message
... Does anyone recognize this fuel filter? http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Filter.jpg I can't squirm in far enough to find a model number and didn't see anything that looke like it in the marine store. Considering some of the weird stuff I've found on the boat, I don't want to assume that the Racor elements in the spare parts are for it. I also want to be sure it isn't the one referred to in another thread that passes unfiltered fuel if a spacer is left out. If that could be done, the PO of my boat would have done it. I have one just like it on Fundy. It is a Racor and uses the 2000 series filters. I normally use the the 2 micron (brown) filters in mine. I don't think they market it any more, but the replaceable elements are still available. Leanne |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
I just went down to the money black hole to see about adding a second filter
to go in parallel and neither store in town has one like this. All small primary filters now seem to be the spin on type as opposed to this one that you drop a paper element into. Would this be a good time to switch to a spin-on filter? It looks looks like it would be a lot easier to get at the sediment bowl to clean it out in event of major fuel contamination. I can barely reach my filter so making filter changes as easy as possible is important, one reason I'm thinking of a second filter I can switch over to. -- Roger Long |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
How easy is filter replacement? (See my reply to Wayne)
Can the sediment bowl be removed with very difficult top access? Anything else I should know about it? -- Roger Long |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
"Roger Long" wrote in message
... How easy is filter replacement? (See my reply to Wayne) Can the sediment bowl be removed with very difficult top access? Anything else I should know about it? The filter element is easy to change as you release the band at the top and the cover pops off. Change the two O rings and set the filter on the stub on the top. There is a drain at the bottom of the bowl, but to actually clean the owl, it has to be removed from the mounting bracket and undo the four screws and it comes off. I did that when we first go the boat. At filter change times, I drain the bowl into a plastic jug. I have added an electric fuel pump to bleed the system after filter changes. It is not normally used except for this, but is there in case the engine mounted mechanical pump fails. Leanne |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
Thanks, I'd already done it by the time I got your reply. It was just as
you describe but I did learn one little thing on my own. The large O ring pops out very easily. I just happened to see it out of the corner of my eye in the bilge as I put the cover on. How many hours do you thing I would have been bleeding and cursing if I hadn't noticed that? I'm a believer in 2 micron elements for the primary now, at least for this little engine that doesn't have much fuel flow. The secondary filter looked like it had been put in yesterday. I could probably change the Racor primary and get the engine running again without bleeding the whole fuel system but no way with the secondary. The secondary is also much harder to change on my installation. The doorbell hotwire I installed for the electric fuel pump works like a charm. I was able to bleed the system in about a third the time it took the boatyard. -- Roger |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
In article ,
"Roger Long" wrote: Does anyone recognize this fuel filter? http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Filter.jpg I can't squirm in far enough to find a model number and didn't see anything that looke like it in the marine store. Considering some of the weird stuff I've found on the boat, I don't want to assume that the Racor elements in the spare parts are for it. I also want to be sure it isn't the one referred to in another thread that passes unfiltered fuel if a spacer is left out. If that could be done, the PO of my boat would have done it. It's an obsolete Racor. Filters can be had a NAPA. I have just replaced that Racor with a new one. -- Molesworth |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
On Fri, 20 Jul 2007 13:00:44 -0400, "Roger Long"
wrote: I just went down to the money black hole to see about adding a second filter to go in parallel and neither store in town has one like this. All small primary filters now seem to be the spin on type as opposed to this one that you drop a paper element into. Would this be a good time to switch to a spin-on filter? It looks looks like it would be a lot easier to get at the sediment bowl to clean it out in event of major fuel contamination. I can barely reach my filter so making filter changes as easy as possible is important, one reason I'm thinking of a second filter I can switch over to. Roger I've been anchored for a few days in places with no internet service but it looks like you've gotten most of the information you need. Parallel, hot switchable filters are nice to have if you are making long passages under power, if your system is difficult to prime and bleed, or if you have a history of tank gunk and filter clogging. Sounds like you've got that covered however. The people who most need elaborate filtration gear are we trawler folks who have large fuel tanks holding many hundreds of gallons. When the boat sits idle for any period of time the tanks become a breeding ground for biology experiments. |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 14:58:33 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote: On Fri, 20 Jul 2007 13:00:44 -0400, "Roger Long" wrote: I just went down to the money black hole to see about adding a second filter to go in parallel and neither store in town has one like this. All small primary filters now seem to be the spin on type as opposed to this one that you drop a paper element into. Would this be a good time to switch to a spin-on filter? It looks looks like it would be a lot easier to get at the sediment bowl to clean it out in event of major fuel contamination. I can barely reach my filter so making filter changes as easy as possible is important, one reason I'm thinking of a second filter I can switch over to. Roger I've been anchored for a few days in places with no internet service but it looks like you've gotten most of the information you need. Parallel, hot switchable filters are nice to have if you are making long passages under power, if your system is difficult to prime and bleed, or if you have a history of tank gunk and filter clogging. Sounds like you've got that covered however. The people who most need elaborate filtration gear are we trawler folks who have large fuel tanks holding many hundreds of gallons. When the boat sits idle for any period of time the tanks become a breeding ground for biology experiments. One thing I did add to my sailboat fuel system is a water trap. All the diesel pickups here in Thailand have them fitted as original equipment. They are a plastic spin on filter shaped devise with a float in it.They have a petcock and priming pump for draining out the water. The float won't float in diesel and will float in water. They have an electrical connection that can be connected to a warning horn so when you get, say, a couple of tablespoons of water in the water trap the horn blows. Put it on the tank side of your primary filter. Bruce in Bangkok (brucepaigeatgmaildotcom) -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
"Bruce" wrote One thing I did add to my sailboat fuel system is a water trap. I suspect that device is vital in your climate and fuel supply chain. After two years of paying no attention to fuel or filters, I found not a drop of water in the sediment bowl of my water separating filter. I think Wayne is right, for my small diesel, operating in New England, I'm covered. I'll probably add a parallel filter when I start going to Newfoundland because that trip will involve a lot of motoring close along the cliffs to take pictures. I learned that the PO was running 2 micron filters in the primary and I'm going to continue that. I can see changing the primary underway in emergency conditons but I would not want to tackle the secondary in my installation. The primary is rated for 15 GPH and my engine needs less than 1 so it would take a lot of filter degradation to shut me down. My primary was loaded black and the secondary looked like it was put in yesterday when I opened the system up. I've never seen anything like that water trap here. Has anyone else? -- Roger Long |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
The racors will trap water and allow you to drain it as well. You can
also fit one with an alarm sensor. If you haven't been having problems with water, i'd just stick with one of those. Look at the cost of the replacement elements to decide between a spin-on and a cartridge. I have both in my fuel stream. Racor 900's as primaries, and I replaced that dual CAV cartridge setup on the engine with a Racor spin-on. The cartridges are much cheaper and easier to replace. The spin on requires draining then removal, then a special wrench that grabs the plastic bottom bowl along with a filter wrench to separate it from the spin-on element. Harder to change and more expensive, but I only change it once a year, since pretty much nothing ever makes it past the Racor primary (2 micron cartridges). |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
I agree. Now that I've changed the filter on that obsolete Racor, I can see
that it is much easier to replace than a spin on. I would like to be able to wipe the alge film out of the sediment bowl but it isn't really hurting anything and I can disassemble the filter after fall layup. I'm going to stick with my current filter as long as the elements are available. -- Roger Long |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
On Fri, 20 Jul 2007 21:05:59 -0500, Molesworth
wrote: In article , "Roger Long" wrote: Does anyone recognize this fuel filter? http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Filter.jpg I It's an obsolete Racor. Filters can be had a NAPA. Obsolete? No, not at all. The Racor 200F is *discontinued* but not obsolete. I prefer this style because I can remove and inspect the filter element unlike the spin on types. I use an old dental pick and small pieces of lint free cotton cloth to clean the inside of the bowl when required. Filters (elements) are available in 2 and 10 microns from several sources at $11.00 to $14.00 (CAD) here is my 200f set up: http://members.shaw.ca/albin82ms/mechanical.html it was relatively inexpensive to build mainly becuase I was able to pick up two *NEW* 200f's via e-bay. My boat came with one Racor 200f that worked just fine... I just wanted a 3 filter system and saw no need to discard a perfectly good filter system. Instead I added on to it. I will be adding a vacuum guage to complete the system. regards JBT |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
Roger Long wrote:
I agree. Now that I've changed the filter on that obsolete Racor, I can see that it is much easier to replace than a spin on. I would like to be able to wipe the alge film out of the sediment bowl but it isn't really hurting anything and I can disassemble the filter after fall layup. I'm going to stick with my current filter as long as the elements are available. It's a Racor 200 FG (same as my boat). Obsolete so the filter elements are bit more costly than the 500 MA/FG. The filter elements on it are TINY though. I'm going to upgrade to a Racor 500 because the bigger filter elements are nicer and more likely to be in stock in out of the way places. Evan Gatehouse |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
On Sat, 28 Jul 2007 07:56:40 GMT, Evan Gatehouse
wrote: I'm going to upgrade to a Racor 500 because the bigger filter elements are nicer and more likely to be in stock in out of the way places. I have a few slightly used 500s laying around back home if you're interested, also some new filter elements. I'm out on the boat for the summer however so I can't get to them for a while. Be sure to use the required element spacer with 500s, otherwise they will pass some gunk downstream. |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
On Jul 20, 9:50 am, "Roger Long" wrote:
Does anyone recognize this fuel filter? http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Filter.jpg I can't squirm in far enough to find a model number and didn't see anything that looke like it in the marine store. Considering some of the weird stuff I've found on the boat, I don't want to assume that the Racor elements in the spare parts are for it. I also want to be sure it isn't the one referred to in another thread that passes unfiltered fuel if a spacer is left out. If that could be done, the PO of my boat would have done it. -- Roger Long Greetings Roger; That's a Racor fuel filter housing not a filter, but I know what you are asking. Racor made a dozen different sizes rated by flow. Bigger is not better, as the water seperator needs a tuned stream of fuel to properly work. I have a housing that looks exactly as your and it's a Racor 2000. You need to pull the filter out of the housing to know the exact type, and color. The end cap Color of the filter denotes filtration on Racors. Brown is 2 MIC, Blue is 10 MIC, Red is 30 MIC. With a small engine I would assume is on your boat dual set- up's is not worth the hassle, just put a vaccume gauge between the filter housing and the fuel pump. As far as alge goes if you are having a problem get a pre- filter strainer with removeable SS mesh type filter...saves on the cost of Racors. Also... you do not need a seperate water trap with that racor system, just wasting money. If you need to scrub the walls of the water trap remove the valve on bottom and you have a nice size hole to use a bit of wire with a rag twisted on the end, but it's easy enough to remove the bowl and do it right if you had the room. Racor's the best F@*k the rest. Joe |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
Interesting point about the proper flow to make the water separator work. I
wonder if this on is in the proper range at about 1 gallon per hour. -- Roger Long |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
On Jul 28, 3:00 pm, "Roger Long" wrote:
Interesting point about the proper flow to make the water separator work. I wonder if this on is in the proper range at about 1 gallon per hour. -- Roger Long Is it original with the boat ? If so it was most likely properly sized by the engine mfg and builder I'd suspect. Is it trapping any water? Joe |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
I don't think it's original and I've never seen any water. What I need is
to find instructions or specs for one of these filters. I tried Google but, no luck. -- Roger Long |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
If you use any of the standard fuel treatments, and if they work, you shouldn't see water, as they all contain emulsifiers. You are over-obsessing; forget all filters, go sailing. :) On Jul 28, 2:55 pm, "Roger Long" wrote: I don't think it's original and I've never seen any water. What I need is to find instructions or specs for one of these filters. I tried Google but, no luck. -- Roger Long |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
On 2007-07-28 16:00:57 -0400, "Roger Long" said:
Interesting point about the proper flow to make the water separator work. I wonder if this on is in the proper range at about 1 gallon per hour. Our yard put in the 500 for our similar engine. Remember that you probably have more fuel flowing than what you're burning, most of it circulating back to the tank. If we didn't have that circulation, we'd *really* have a critter problem, as we burn only about a third of a gallon per hour, about 10 gallons a year. -- Jere Lull Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD Xan's new pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/ Our BVI pages: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
An interesting thing about the Yanmar 2QM series is that there is no return
line back to the tank. Evidently, the injector bypass just circulates back as far as the injector pump on the engine. It is an unusually cool running engine for a diesel so maybe that helps avoid the fuel getting too hot. Flow through the filter is whatever fuel consumption is. Just out of curiosity, I'm going to look at recommended flow rates on some separator filters but I'll be surprised if any go as low as 1 gph. It's appears to be a centrifugal process judging by the spiral grooves I see on some of the filter housings so it must take a reasonable flow. Just out of curiosity, I'm going to look at recommended flow rates on some separator filters but I'll be surprised if any go that low. Chris had a good point, now that I'm putting an emulsifier (StarTron/Soltron) in the fuel, The water isn't going to separate out anyway. -- Roger Long |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
wrote You are over-obsessing..... Isn't that what this group is for? -- Roger Long |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
Hmm, no minumum flow rates indicated on the Racor site specifications page
for water separator filters. -- Roger Long |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
On Jul 29, 4:55 am, "Roger Long" wrote:
An interesting thing about the Yanmar 2QM series is that there is no return line back to the tank. Evidently, the injector bypass just circulates back as far as the injector pump on the engine. It is an unusually cool running engine for a diesel so maybe that helps avoid the fuel getting too hot. Flow through the filter is whatever fuel consumption is. Just out of curiosity, I'm going to look at recommended flow rates on some separator filters but I'll be surprised if any go as low as 1 gph. It's appears to be a centrifugal process judging by the spiral grooves I see on some of the filter housings so it must take a reasonable flow. Just out of curiosity, I'm going to look at recommended flow rates on some separator filters but I'll be surprised if any go that low. Chris had a good point, now that I'm putting an emulsifier (StarTron/Soltron) in the fuel, The water isn't going to separate out anyway. -- Roger Long Quick Question: Just where oh where is the water going to go to? Emulsified out of existance? I'm getting into your fuel problem a bit late Roger, whats up? You got alge problems? How long has the fuel been on your boat? How many gallons do your tanks hold? What are your tanks made of ? Do you have access through an inspection plate? Tanks baffled? In the USA the major source of water in your fuel is condensation of the moisture in the air in the tank, collection on the tank top then dripping into the fuel. Best way to keep moisture out with the boat sitting most the time is to keep your tanks pressed full. Alge killers present thier own problems and none do a proper job IMO. Your options are to slosh out the alge and buy filters by the case until it's all gone, or clean the tank. Once I picked up a 120' crewboat that had been in Mexico for 3 years and had the worst alge problem in a fuel tank that ever existed, so bad the water traps would not drain due to getting clogged with alge, had to poke the drain spigots with a hanger wire to break the crap up to drain the water. We used up a couple grand in filters before we got it cleaned up, we burned 180 GPH, with a 4000 gallon tankage. The boat had aluminum tanks that were the deck in the passenger area that was always kept cold, the boat rocking and sloshing allowed the tanks to breath in and out moist air all the time, creating massive amounts of water due to condensing on the tank tops. So what's it like to go that deep under the ocean? Joe |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
On Jul 29, 5:17 am, "Roger Long" wrote:
Hmm, no minumum flow rates indicated on the Racor site specifications page for water separator filters. -- Roger Long I found info on the larger units Roger, but I feel you are going to have to call Parker/Racor and ask an application engineer for the info on the older systems. I'd be interested myself to the flow ratings on the old 2000 filter housings. V -- How to Order The example below illustrates how part numbers are constructed. 1000MA M P 2 Specify Model (see chart below): 500MA1 900MA2 1000MA2 75500MAX1 75900MAX3 751000MAX3 731000MA4 771000MA5 791000MAV4 Add M for a metal bowl instead of the standard see--thru polymer bowl. (Omit if not desired) Add P for a water sensor probe6 (Omit if not desired) Add a micron rating: 2, 10, or 30 (The smaller the number in micron rating, the more contaminates the filter will take out of the fuel. A 2 micron filter will take out more contaminates than a 10 micron filter will.) Standard fuel ports a 1 3/4"--16 UNF (SAE J1926), 2 7/8"--14 UNF (SAE J1926), 3 7/8"--14 UNF (SAE J514), 4 3/4"--14 NPT (SAE J476) and 5 1" NPT (SAE J476). 6 Must be used withWater DetectionModule. Fittings are available from Racor -- call technical support at 800.344.3286 for assistance. Single Duplex Triplex With Isolation Valves Without Isolation Valves 75500MAX (60 GPH with one unit on--line, 120 GPH with both units on--line) 500MA (60 GPH) 900MA (90 GPH) 1000MA (180 GPH) 731000MA (360 GPH) 75900MAX (90 GPH with one unit on--line, 180 GPH with both units on--line) 751000MAX (180 GPH with one unit on--line, 360 GPH with both units on--line) With Isolation Valves Without Isolation Valves 771000MA (540 GPH) 791000MAV (180 GPH with one unit on--line, 360 GPH with two units on--line and 540 GPH with three. |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
On Sun, 29 Jul 2007 07:20:07 -0700, Joe
wrote: Quick Question: Just where oh where is the water going to go to? Emulsified out of existance? .... Joe Quick Answer: Into the combustion chamber with the fuel, where it contributes. Brian Whatcott Altus OK |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
"Joe" wrote
Quick Question: Just where oh where is the water going to go to? Emulsified out of existance? It will go through the engine. If the surfacant can distribute it finely enough through the fuel, it will just vaporize in the combustion process with a slight loss of performance and maybe some additional wear on the injectors. It' s when it's rolling around in slugs that go down the fuel line so that the engine tries to run on nearly pure water for short periods that you have a big trouble. I'm getting into your fuel problem a bit late Roger, whats up? You got alge problems? I haven't had any problems but am just trying to head them off. The boat was stored hauled out with fuel in it for six years before I bought it and everything had turned to jelly. The PO paid to have it all cleaned out and the tank polished. I than ran it for two and a half seasons without giving it a thought. The sediment bowl remained crystal clear until a few weeks ago when I spotted just a few specks of alge and realized it was time to start being proactive. The engine missed about three beats around this time (which prompted the look at the filter) when the tank was down to about minimum. I put in the StarTron and the sediment bowl turned immediately solid green, as it should. I changed the filters and the engine continues to purr. I find myself often motoring along close to sheer cliffs since looking at the shorline and wildlife is a major crusing objective for me. I'm planning to do this in Newfoundland after the current research vessel project is finished so I'm starting to really take an interest in the subject of keeping engines running. I've previously had a fairly casual attitude because I have those dacron "take home" engines up on the spars. My fuel tank is quite high in the hull and far from the cold hull surface so I probably don't get any significant condensation. It's not generally a big problem in this climate anyway and fuel quality is pretty good. -- Roger Long |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
Joe wrote:
On Jul 29, 4:55 am, "Roger Long" wrote: An interesting thing about the Yanmar 2QM series is that there is no return line back to the tank. Evidently, the injector bypass just circulates back as far as the injector pump on the engine. It is an unusually cool running engine for a diesel so maybe that helps avoid the fuel getting too hot. Flow through the filter is whatever fuel consumption is. Just out of curiosity, I'm going to look at recommended flow rates on some separator filters but I'll be surprised if any go as low as 1 gph. It's appears to be a centrifugal process judging by the spiral grooves I see on some of the filter housings so it must take a reasonable flow. Just out of curiosity, I'm going to look at recommended flow rates on some separator filters but I'll be surprised if any go that low. Chris had a good point, now that I'm putting an emulsifier (StarTron/Soltron) in the fuel, The water isn't going to separate out anyway. -- Roger Long Quick Question: Just where oh where is the water going to go to? Emulsified out of existance? I'm getting into your fuel problem a bit late Roger, whats up? You got alge problems? How long has the fuel been on your boat? How many gallons do your tanks hold? What are your tanks made of ? Do you have access through an inspection plate? Tanks baffled? In the USA the major source of water in your fuel is condensation of the moisture in the air in the tank, collection on the tank top then dripping into the fuel. Best way to keep moisture out with the boat sitting most the time is to keep your tanks pressed full. Alge killers present thier own problems and none do a proper job IMO. Your options are to slosh out the alge and buy filters by the case until it's all gone, or clean the tank. Once I picked up a 120' crewboat that had been in Mexico for 3 years and had the worst alge problem in a fuel tank that ever existed, so bad the water traps would not drain due to getting clogged with alge, had to poke the drain spigots with a hanger wire to break the crap up to drain the water. We used up a couple grand in filters before we got it cleaned up, we burned 180 GPH, with a 4000 gallon tankage. The boat had aluminum tanks that were the deck in the passenger area that was always kept cold, the boat rocking and sloshing allowed the tanks to breath in and out moist air all the time, creating massive amounts of water due to condensing on the tank tops. So what's it like to go that deep under the ocean? Joe Here's what David Pascoe has to say about condensate in fuel tanks! http://www.yachtsurvey.com/myth_of_c...fuel_tanks.htm Interesting Gordon |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
"Roger Long" wrote in message ... "Joe" wrote Quick Question: Just where oh where is the water going to go to? Emulsified out of existance? It will go through the engine. If the surfacant can distribute it finely enough through the fuel, it will just vaporize in the combustion process with a slight loss of performance and maybe some additional wear on the injectors. It' s when it's rolling around in slugs that go down the fuel line so that the engine tries to run on nearly pure water for short periods that you have a big trouble. I'm getting into your fuel problem a bit late Roger, whats up? You got alge problems? I haven't had any problems but am just trying to head them off. The boat was stored hauled out with fuel in it for six years before I bought it and everything had turned to jelly. The PO paid to have it all cleaned out and the tank polished. I than ran it for two and a half seasons without giving it a thought. The sediment bowl remained crystal clear until a few weeks ago when I spotted just a few specks of alge and realized it was time to start being proactive. The engine missed about three beats around this time (which prompted the look at the filter) when the tank was down to about minimum. I put in the StarTron and the sediment bowl turned immediately solid green, as it should. I changed the filters and the engine continues to purr. I find myself often motoring along close to sheer cliffs since looking at the shorline and wildlife is a major crusing objective for me. I'm planning to do this in Newfoundland after the current research vessel project is finished so I'm starting to really take an interest in the subject of keeping engines running. I've previously had a fairly casual attitude because I have those dacron "take home" engines up on the spars. My fuel tank is quite high in the hull and far from the cold hull surface so I probably don't get any significant condensation. It's not generally a big problem in this climate anyway and fuel quality is pretty good. -- Roger Long Ya, the time to think about algae and water is before it becomes a problem, not after. For my part, I think all diesel should be treated at fill-up. |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
This is quite consistent with my experience managing an aircraft with
aluminum tanks. We stopped filling up after every flight and saw no increase in water. I only saw water a couple time in nearly a decade of flying and it was religion to sump the tanks before every flight. I only saw water after rains heavy enough that a thick water film could have built up around the caps by coming down faster than it could drain off the wings. -- Roger Long |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
"KLC Lewis" wrote Ya, the time to think about algae and water is before it becomes a problem, not after. For my part, I think all diesel should be treated at fill-up. I will from this point on. -- Roger Long |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
Roger Long wrote:
:Hmm, no minumum flow rates indicated on the Racor site specifications page :for water separator filters. Why would there be? The seperation is done by gravity. Diesel floats on water, so the water collects on the bottom of the bowl, where it can be drained out the handy valve on the bottom. |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
"David Scheidt" wrote Why would there be? The seperation is done by gravity. Undoubtedly. Someone else raised the minimum flow question which seemed plausible to me only because of seeing spiral grooves on some of the bowl housings that looked as if the centrifugal effects of flow might be intended to assist gravity. Maybe so but it apparently isn't a big enough contribution for Racor to warn against diminished performance at low flow rates. A more likely probabiliy now seems to me to be that the grooves are intended to slow the flow so that gravity will have more time to do its work. I'm skeptical now that there is a downside to a large filter. -- Roger Long |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
On Sun, 29 Jul 2007 18:33:40 -0400, "Roger Long"
wrote: "David Scheidt" wrote Why would there be? The seperation is done by gravity. Undoubtedly. Someone else raised the minimum flow question which seemed plausible to me only because of seeing spiral grooves on some of the bowl housings that looked as if the centrifugal effects of flow might be intended to assist gravity. Maybe so but it apparently isn't a big enough contribution for Racor to warn against diminished performance at low flow rates. A more likely probabiliy now seems to me to be that the grooves are intended to slow the flow so that gravity will have more time to do its work. I'm skeptical now that there is a downside to a large filter. The flow rate is fixed by the flow rate...as is the "time of flight" from inlet to outlet. Perhaps they are making a vortex. Just a guess. |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
"Goofball_star_dot_etal" wrote in message ... The flow rate is fixed by the flow rate...as is the "time of flight" from inlet to outlet. Perhaps they are making a vortex. Just a guess. A vortex is claimed, but whether or not it is actually there, and whether or not it actually separates water, is another matter entirely. |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
On Sun, 29 Jul 2007 11:59:01 -0400, "Roger Long"
wrote: it was religion to sump the tanks before every flight. Interesting. Although not recently, I've had some experience flying in private aircraft and don't remember ever seeing that done. Sounds like a good idea though. Do you drain it into a transparent cup like I do with my Racors? |
Anyone know this fuel filter?
Yikes, you flew with someone who didn't sump the tanks? It's so universal
that it would make me wonder what else he wasn't doing. Were you there for the whole pre-flight or did you just get in after the plane was ready? I'm sure the tanks were checked. I've heard of a lot of dumb flying tricks but never not checking the tanks. The sumps are a valve that opens when a rod is pushed in. There is a nifty little jar with a rod held in the middle so that the fuel pours in. You then check for the proper color, sediment, and water. It used to be that you then threw it on the ground and many still do. Because of the lead, more and more pilots are now using sample jars with a mesh screen that filters out water so that the fuel can be poured back in the tanks. You want to visually confirm their level anyway. -- Roger Long |
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