http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...0265372&rd=1,1

What size generator would be needed to run this unit?

George

On 6 May 2007 07:23:25 -0700, thatboatguy
wrote:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...0265372&rd=1,1

What size generator would be needed to run this unit?

George

Allowing for power factor, starting current, and some safety factor,
I'd say 4 KW minimum.

thatboatguy wrote in
oups.com:

What size generator would be needed to run this unit?


Isn't it interesting that no matter how I put that model number into
Google....it only finds the Ebay listing...JUST THE ONE!

I find that a bit "unnerving". I don't want to own the only one in
existance. I might want PARTS for it!

To answer your question, though. Marine air conditioners NEVER have
"easy start kits" so we can assume this one I can't find any information
on is similar. According to Marine Air:
http://www.aquaair.net/80706-MINI_KOOL.pdf
on page 2, a 16Kbtu AC draws 1296 watts. (11.7A). It'll take double that
to start it, so 2600 watts should crank it (23A). Of course, this
assumes NOTHING ELSE IS RUNNING, which it won't be on any boat I know
of....of course.

So, assuming you also have a compressor fridge (with twice the starting
current it runs on for the same reason) and other loads, you must load
them all up to a "worst case scenario" when planning what genset you'll
need to pull the beasts, including this AC unit. Whatever load you DID
have, just add 3KW more power to the load to figure out what you'll need
when you get it, so it will start, reliably. It all adds up, quickly.

I'd shoot for 8KW-10KW to allow you a little breathing room for future
expansion, something that always happens. It's also a great idea to
NEVER run a genset over half load continuously. You'll just wear it out
too quickly with the throttle wide open most of the time...just like your
car. It wouldn't last long, either, that way.

Now, we have no idea what kind or size of boat you have. In a cuddy
cabin Bayliner, 10KW is going to be its own problem. In a Hatteras 58,
not so bad, it already has two diesel gensets, an 8KW and 15KW, usually.

Personally, before you all go eating great holes in the cabinetry for the
ductwork, losing lockers/cabinets/STORAGE you all really need in any
small boat, go look closely at this new jewel from Carrier, one of the
most respected names in air conditioning:
http://www.airv.carrier.com/Files/AirV/Local/US-
en/customer_service/11037.pdf
This little 13.5Kbtu, easy starting rotary compressor AC unit could
EASILY replace that leaky skylight in the main cabin under the boom!
It's ONLY 7.5" HIGH! That's an inch LESS than a sheet of printer paper
is wide! Take a sheet of printer paper and place it on top of the open
hole under your boom. IT FITS!...that's easily an inch of clearance!
Inside the boat, usually where it doesn't matter over the table, anyway,
it takes only 2.5" sticking down into the cabin! That's TINY!

Now, why in hell would anyone want to put an RV AC on a BOAT?! You must
be CRAZY!.....

No, not at all. There's NO PLUMBING TO CLOG, NO STRAINER, NO SEAWATER
PUMPING marine wigglers into the hull. There's NO DUCTWORK! You don't
lose a single cc of usable storage space! You don't have to live INSIDE
the boat with a NOISY COMPRESSOR AND FAN! In the RV unit...all the NOISE
and HEAT produced by fan motor and compressor are OUTSIDE THE AIR
CONDITIONED SPACE! Wow! Ingenious! You don't have to spend 3000 Btu of
heat pumping capacity pumping out the stupid marine air conditioners OWN
heat....it's ALREADY OUTSIDE! Duhhh...(c; The little rotary compressors
on these little RV units is SO quiet!....

Before blasting away at me for even suggesting we put something on the
boat that doesn't cost $5000 and have pictures of ship wheels or anchors
on its case...I want you all to visit an RV dealer that sells these
little Carrier AIRV Low Profile (LP) units. Crawl up into one of his
RVs, without the sarcastic RV remarks, and RUN ONE! Compare it to ANY
marine water pumping noisy beast in any boat YOUR SIZE. Just try
it....costs nothing. I bet, if you want, the RV dealer will send his
boys down to install it where that leaky plastic hatch was for ya, if you
like. All I'm asking you to do it look. 7.5" above the deck under the
boom? 2.5" hanging down in the cabin is all?? 13,500Btu of ALL USABLE
heat pumping capacity....and Quiet? The wife won't have to sleep on top
of it??

Larry
--
I got one guy in a sailing catamaran to try a regular unit this size
13.5Kbtu from Coleman. It wasn't this tiny physical size. It was 95F in
Charleston, in the sun. I asked him how it was going (to see if he was
mad at me, mostly). His only complaint was they had it set too cold the
first night and like to froze to death....(c; Sleeping cool with low
noise, he got used to it being an RV unit quite quickly...(c;

On Sun, 06 May 2007 21:46:25 +0000, Larry wrote:

thatboatguy wrote in
roups.com:

What size generator would be needed to run this unit?


Isn't it interesting that no matter how I put that model number into
Google....it only finds the Ebay listing...JUST THE ONE!

I find that a bit "unnerving". I don't want to own the only one in
existance. I might want PARTS for it!

Much snipped

This little 13.5Kbtu, easy starting rotary compressor AC unit could
EASILY replace that leaky skylight in the main cabin under the boom!
It's ONLY 7.5" HIGH! That's an inch LESS than a sheet of printer paper
is wide! Take a sheet of printer paper and place it on top of the open
hole under your boom. IT FITS!...that's easily an inch of clearance!
Inside the boat, usually where it doesn't matter over the table, anyway,
it takes only 2.5" sticking down into the cabin! That's TINY!

Now, why in hell would anyone want to put an RV AC on a BOAT?! You must
be CRAZY!.....

No, not at all. There's NO PLUMBING TO CLOG, NO STRAINER, NO SEAWATER
PUMPING marine wigglers into the hull. There's NO DUCTWORK! You don't
lose a single cc of usable storage space! You don't have to live INSIDE
the boat with a NOISY COMPRESSOR AND FAN! In the RV unit...all the NOISE
and HEAT produced by fan motor and compressor are OUTSIDE THE AIR
CONDITIONED SPACE! Wow! Ingenious! You don't have to spend 3000 Btu of
heat pumping capacity pumping out the stupid marine air conditioners OWN
heat....it's ALREADY OUTSIDE! Duhhh...(c; The little rotary compressors
on these little RV units is SO quiet!....

Before blasting away at me for even suggesting we put something on the
boat that doesn't cost $5000 and have pictures of ship wheels or anchors
on its case...I want you all to visit an RV dealer that sells these
little Carrier AIRV Low Profile (LP) units. Crawl up into one of his
RVs, without the sarcastic RV remarks, and RUN ONE! Compare it to ANY
marine water pumping noisy beast in any boat YOUR SIZE. Just try
it....costs nothing. I bet, if you want, the RV dealer will send his
boys down to install it where that leaky plastic hatch was for ya, if you
like. All I'm asking you to do it look. 7.5" above the deck under the
boom? 2.5" hanging down in the cabin is all?? 13,500Btu of ALL USABLE
heat pumping capacity....and Quiet? The wife won't have to sleep on top
of it??

Larry

I live in Thailand and keep a boat in Phuket. I would say that more
then half of the sail boats that have air conditioning here are using
window air conditioners sitting on the deck and ducted through an
upper hatch. Cheaper to purchase then dedicated systems, cheaper to
repair and easier to maintain -- remember that with a water cooled
system you WILL have to clean the water inlet filter at least weekly
here in Thailand.

When you go sailing just wrap the unit up and lash it down, somewhere.
We seldom/never never have problems sleeping while underway or
anchoring so the only time an air-con is needed is in the marina.


Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeatgmaildotcom)

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Bruce wrote in
:

I live in Thailand and keep a boat in Phuket. I would say that more
then half of the sail boats that have air conditioning here are using
window air conditioners sitting on the deck and ducted through an
upper hatch. Cheaper to purchase then dedicated systems, cheaper to
repair and easier to maintain -- remember that with a water cooled
system you WILL have to clean the water inlet filter at least weekly
here in Thailand.

Charleston is just as bad, Bruce. The seawater strainers pumping hard in
summer will plug up in a few days, overheating the condensors and
overpressuring the compressors until it trips out, rendering water cooled
units useless....especially with noone aboard to stop it.

Rooftop RV units are used on all the commercial tugs, towboats, dredges,
etc. They are very reliable, cheap to buy, no regular maintenance
needed. But, sailors are a damned stubborn lot. Someone in the marine
business has convinced them there's something special about the damned
overpriced water-cooled window units eating up their interior space and
heating what they're trying to cool. Damned noisy and stupid....

When you go sailing just wrap the unit up and lash it down, somewhere.
We seldom/never never have problems sleeping while underway or
anchoring so the only time an air-con is needed is in the marina.


As this little rooftop unit sits under the boom right where the skylight
hatch you couldn't walk on before used to be, replacing it, and only
occupies 7.5" above and 2.5" below the deck it sure looks like a win-win
situation. It'll take many years for the seawater to consume these
aluminum, light units. The tug operators have some really old ones that
run just fine! Semipermanent mounted, bolted fast to the hatch hole,
they don't need to be regularly lugged around and lashed down every time
you want to go to sea. If you have no genset, a nice cover to keep the
sea off it would be nice, but unnecessary. They seal in the hole with
quite a bit of pressure that driving in the rain at 120km down a 4-lane
highway won't make them leak into an RV on a flimsy roof.

Larry
--
This spammer called my cellphone:
First American Payment
10101 E Arapaho Rd
Richardson, TX 75081
972-301-3766
They were nasty when I politely said I wasn't interested....(c;

On Sun, 06 May 2007 21:46:25 +0000, Larry wrote:

I'd shoot for 8KW-10KW to allow you a little breathing room for future
expansion, something that always happens.

Waaaay overkill.

My old boat had a similar A/C and it ran fine on a 7 KW gen set with
lots of power left over.

My present boat has 4 zones of similar A/Cs and they all run just fine
on a 15 kw gen set with power in reserve.

On Mon, 07 May 2007 05:04:27 +0000, Larry wrote:

Bruce wrote in
:

I live in Thailand and keep a boat in Phuket. I would say that more
then half of the sail boats that have air conditioning here are using
window air conditioners sitting on the deck and ducted through an
upper hatch. Cheaper to purchase then dedicated systems, cheaper to
repair and easier to maintain -- remember that with a water cooled
system you WILL have to clean the water inlet filter at least weekly
here in Thailand.

Charleston is just as bad, Bruce. The seawater strainers pumping hard in
summer will plug up in a few days, overheating the condensors and
overpressuring the compressors until it trips out, rendering water cooled
units useless....especially with noone aboard to stop it.

Rooftop RV units are used on all the commercial tugs, towboats, dredges,
etc. They are very reliable, cheap to buy, no regular maintenance
needed. But, sailors are a damned stubborn lot. Someone in the marine
business has convinced them there's something special about the damned
overpriced water-cooled window units eating up their interior space and
heating what they're trying to cool. Damned noisy and stupid....

When you go sailing just wrap the unit up and lash it down, somewhere.
We seldom/never never have problems sleeping while underway or
anchoring so the only time an air-con is needed is in the marina.


As this little rooftop unit sits under the boom right where the skylight
hatch you couldn't walk on before used to be, replacing it, and only
occupies 7.5" above and 2.5" below the deck it sure looks like a win-win
situation. It'll take many years for the seawater to consume these
aluminum, light units. The tug operators have some really old ones that
run just fine! Semipermanent mounted, bolted fast to the hatch hole,
they don't need to be regularly lugged around and lashed down every time
you want to go to sea. If you have no genset, a nice cover to keep the
sea off it would be nice, but unnecessary. They seal in the hole with
quite a bit of pressure that driving in the rain at 120km down a 4-lane
highway won't make them leak into an RV on a flimsy roof.

Larry

Another (important) point (important to me, anyway) is the cost. I
bought my present window Air con in Penang, Malaysia for about 700 MR
- something like $200 US$. The previous one was a used unit I bought
in Langkawi, Malaysia for about $75. The used one only lasted for 5
years though.







Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeatgmaildotcom)

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

"Bruce" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 07 May 2007 05:04:27 +0000, Larry wrote:

Bruce wrote in
m:

I live in Thailand and keep a boat in Phuket. I would say that more
then half of the sail boats that have air conditioning here are using
window air conditioners sitting on the deck and ducted through an
upper hatch. Cheaper to purchase then dedicated systems, cheaper to
repair and easier to maintain -- remember that with a water cooled
system you WILL have to clean the water inlet filter at least weekly
here in Thailand.

Gee, I don't know how I missed you as we spent the month of January on
Phuket, doing the tourist bit. I was actually wondering about the rainy
season and how hot and steamy it is there now. I think the guides said
November to March were the best months.

Leanne
s/vs. Fundy

On Mon, 7 May 2007 13:05:43 -0400, "Leanne" wrote:


"Bruce" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 07 May 2007 05:04:27 +0000, Larry wrote:

Bruce wrote in
:

I live in Thailand and keep a boat in Phuket. I would say that more
then half of the sail boats that have air conditioning here are using
window air conditioners sitting on the deck and ducted through an
upper hatch. Cheaper to purchase then dedicated systems, cheaper to
repair and easier to maintain -- remember that with a water cooled
system you WILL have to clean the water inlet filter at least weekly
here in Thailand.

Gee, I don't know how I missed you as we spent the month of January on
Phuket, doing the tourist bit. I was actually wondering about the rainy
season and how hot and steamy it is there now. I think the guides said
November to March were the best months.

Leanne
s/vs. Fundy

I'm at Yacht Haven. Where were you?
Yes, the dry season is the best time to visit, a bit cooler and less
humidity. During the rainy season it is usually hot and sunny for a
couple of days and then rain for a day or so. Or showers at night. The
humidity is higher then in the dry season but not terribly so. The
problem in visiting during the rainy season is you may hit a bad spell
where it rains pretty much all week.

Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeatgmaildotcom)

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Bruce wrote in
:

Another (important) point (important to me, anyway) is the cost. I
bought my present window Air con in Penang, Malaysia for about 700 MR
- something like $200 US$. The previous one was a used unit I bought
in Langkawi, Malaysia for about $75. The used one only lasted for 5
years though.



Lowe's hardware superstore had the two LG 8000 Btu window ACs in my
stepvan the EU3000i Honda starts, simultaneously by the way, for $US89,
on sale. 16K Btu for $180 and change is MUCH better than a "marine air
conditioner" with seawater acid pouring through it.

Larry
--
This spammer called my cellphone:
First American Payment
10101 E Arapaho Rd
Richardson, TX 75081
972-301-3766
They were nasty when I politely said I wasn't interested....(c;