These Kenyon stoves work wonderfully well IF YOU KNOW HOW TO USE THEM.
The secret is in the lighting them.

Pump up the tank a little [don't overpressure them], open the round
valve wheel and let some alcohol flow into the burner cup and down
into the bottom of the stove pan where there's another "cup" thing.
Doesn't take much. Shut the valve COMPLETELY OFF.

Light the alcohol in both the bottom and the burner cup. LET IT BURN
COMPLETELY, until there's no more flame. Then crack the valve wheel
open a bit and light the burner. It will burn nicely, giving you a
flame like a Coleman stove, and after a few seconds you can turn it up
to the desired "burn".

The mistake people make with these stoves is in not letting the
"prime" burn completely before lighting the stove. As soon as they
open the valve wheel it flares up, scares the hell outta everyone, and
they flee out the companionway.

If you can remove the stove, take it outside and try it once if you're
nervous about it.

T. Sanders
S/V Cimba




"Alvin North" wrote in message link.net...
I have acquired an old boat (Cape Dory 28) about 25 years old. It has a
Kenyon stove Homestrand (SN 152460). A quart tank with pump up, large dial
for clean and close. What type fuel, alcohol or kerosene?
Thanks, A North

Trent D. Sanders wrote:

These Kenyon stoves work wonderfully well IF YOU KNOW HOW TO USE THEM.
The secret is in the lighting them.

Pump up the tank a little [don't overpressure them], open the round
valve wheel and let some alcohol flow into the burner cup and down
into the bottom of the stove pan where there's another "cup" thing.
Doesn't take much. Shut the valve COMPLETELY OFF.

Light the alcohol in both the bottom and the burner cup. LET IT BURN
COMPLETELY, until there's no more flame. Then crack the valve wheel
open a bit and light the burner. It will burn nicely, giving you a
flame like a Coleman stove, and after a few seconds you can turn it up
to the desired "burn".

The mistake people make with these stoves is in not letting the
"prime" burn completely before lighting the stove. As soon as they
open the valve wheel it flares up, scares the hell outta everyone, and
they flee out the companionway.

If you can remove the stove, take it outside and try it once if you're
nervous about it.

T. Sanders
S/V Cimba

We use a slightly different method: When we hear the obvious hiss or
gurgle of the alcohol in the tube boiling, we open the valve all the way
over to the "clean" setting, which is about the minimum heat setting.
When the primer has burnt off, we can demand full heat immediately. We
don't have to stand over the stove and immediately relight the stove.
When we did it Trent's way, we too often didn't relight quite quickly
enough and had to start again from scratch.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

Trent D. Sanders wrote:

These Kenyon stoves work wonderfully well IF YOU KNOW HOW TO USE THEM.
The secret is in the lighting them.

Pump up the tank a little [don't overpressure them], open the round
valve wheel and let some alcohol flow into the burner cup and down
into the bottom of the stove pan where there's another "cup" thing.
Doesn't take much. Shut the valve COMPLETELY OFF.

Light the alcohol in both the bottom and the burner cup. LET IT BURN
COMPLETELY, until there's no more flame. Then crack the valve wheel
open a bit and light the burner. It will burn nicely, giving you a
flame like a Coleman stove, and after a few seconds you can turn it up
to the desired "burn".

The mistake people make with these stoves is in not letting the
"prime" burn completely before lighting the stove. As soon as they
open the valve wheel it flares up, scares the hell outta everyone, and
they flee out the companionway.

If you can remove the stove, take it outside and try it once if you're
nervous about it.

T. Sanders
S/V Cimba

We use a slightly different method: When we hear the obvious hiss or
gurgle of the alcohol in the tube boiling, we open the valve all the way
over to the "clean" setting, which is about the minimum heat setting.
When the primer has burnt off, we can demand full heat immediately. We
don't have to stand over the stove and immediately relight the stove.
When we did it Trent's way, we too often didn't relight quite quickly
enough and had to start again from scratch.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

I am converting my Homestrand from alcohol to propane via the
installation of 10,000 BTU "side burners" from barbeques. Got
replacement valves and a regulator from a hardware store, proper rated
hoses from a commerical appliance place, and the proper-sized copper
hose awaits installation. I will run a connector out via the coaming
and hang the 5 lb. tank off the stern rail on a SS hoop with a
Y-connector to the nearby Force10.

Oh, yeah, I also have an inline solenoid, a remote on/off switch and a
gas/propane sniffer for the bilge.

Cheaper than a retrofit and I'd have to plumb the thing regardless.

R.

On Mon, 3 Nov 2003 08:57:34 -0800, "Steve" wrote:

I agree with Baybyter. I had a similar model Kenyon and ended up with a fire
due to spilled primer alchohol.

I then converted it to kerosene (with burners provided by Kenyon, about
$75). That was a waste of money, still needed to use a primer fuel and the
stove smoked a lot.

The reason I mention the kerosene conversion is the possibility that yours
my have been converted. Just smell the tank and you should be able to tell.

I ended up giving mine away. It was the Kenyon alchohol and elect. model
with the burner in the middle of the electric element.

Be careful or upgrade to a safer stove.

I am converting my Homestrand from alcohol to propane via the
installation of 10,000 BTU "side burners" from barbeques. Got
replacement valves and a regulator from a hardware store, proper rated
hoses from a commerical appliance place, and the proper-sized copper
hose awaits installation. I will run a connector out via the coaming
and hang the 5 lb. tank off the stern rail on a SS hoop with a
Y-connector to the nearby Force10.

Oh, yeah, I also have an inline solenoid, a remote on/off switch and a
gas/propane sniffer for the bilge.

Cheaper than a retrofit and I'd have to plumb the thing regardless.

R.

On Mon, 3 Nov 2003 08:57:34 -0800, "Steve" wrote:

I agree with Baybyter. I had a similar model Kenyon and ended up with a fire
due to spilled primer alchohol.

I then converted it to kerosene (with burners provided by Kenyon, about
$75). That was a waste of money, still needed to use a primer fuel and the
stove smoked a lot.

The reason I mention the kerosene conversion is the possibility that yours
my have been converted. Just smell the tank and you should be able to tell.

I ended up giving mine away. It was the Kenyon alchohol and elect. model
with the burner in the middle of the electric element.

Be careful or upgrade to a safer stove.

Kenyon is still in business (www.kenyonmarine.com) and they are quite
happy to dispense advice and dig up old manuals and hard to find parts.
At least that was my experience.

Matt


"Alvin North" wrote in message
ink.net...
I have acquired an old boat (Cape Dory 28) about 25 years old. It has a
Kenyon stove Homestrand (SN 152460). A quart tank with pump up, large
dial
for clean and close. What type fuel, alcohol or kerosene?

Kenyon is still in business (www.kenyonmarine.com) and they are quite
happy to dispense advice and dig up old manuals and hard to find parts.
At least that was my experience.

Matt


"Alvin North" wrote in message
ink.net...
I have acquired an old boat (Cape Dory 28) about 25 years old. It has a
Kenyon stove Homestrand (SN 152460). A quart tank with pump up, large
dial
for clean and close. What type fuel, alcohol or kerosene?

"Matt/Meribeth Pedersen" wrote...
Kenyon is still in business (www.kenyonmarine.com) and they are quite
happy to dispense advice and dig up old manuals and hard to find parts.
At least that was my experience.

I found a stove cheap at a flea mkt and thought I would rebuild it
myself, after I finished breaking it apart ;-0 I decided to I send my
boats stove into Kenyon for service, service was prompt & reasonable,
as seen on my web page:

http://www.angelfire.com/fl/cruising...toveinstr.html

"Matt/Meribeth Pedersen" wrote...
Kenyon is still in business (www.kenyonmarine.com) and they are quite
happy to dispense advice and dig up old manuals and hard to find parts.
At least that was my experience.

I found a stove cheap at a flea mkt and thought I would rebuild it
myself, after I finished breaking it apart ;-0 I decided to I send my
boats stove into Kenyon for service, service was prompt & reasonable,
as seen on my web page:

http://www.angelfire.com/fl/cruising...toveinstr.html