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Stainless Steel "rust" marks on paint
Bruce wrote: The acid treatment was "passivating". My experience is that unless the stainless is polished to a mirror bright finish you will get staining. All the bits have to be polished; Assuming that it is a bolt on fitting the bolts and washers that are exposed to sea water need to be polished. I've been making things out of stainless and putting them on boats for quite a number of years and I have found that if the part has all the welds ground smooth (so the welding ripples don't show), no pin holes or voids in the weld and then polished bright I seldom get staining. If I don't do this I always get staining. snip... Bruce in Bangkok (brucepaigeatgmaildotcom) Hi Bruce, I've just recently started building stainless parts for my two sailboats. I'm using 316 SS and 316L SS exclusively and passivating with Citrisurf which is a strong citric acid. It can also be used for electropolishing, and I intend to try using it for that in the future. Google "Citrisurf". It is supposed to be better and more environmentally friendly than nitric acid paste. Several of the welders that post to sci.engr.joining.welding have used it with good results. I've only started using it about six months ago, so the stuff I've built has not been out in the salt spray long enough to tell how good the passivation was. Don W. |
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