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Cetol vs Bristol Finish ...
So many products on the market. If you have an opinion? Between Bristol
Finish and Cetol? |
Cetol vs Bristol Finish ...
"NE Sailboat" wrote in message news:V10Hh.11344$ig.7344@trndny01... So many products on the market. If you have an opinion? Between Bristol Finish and Cetol? Cetol looks like paint. Varnish is more work, but looks nicer if it's maintained. |
Cetol vs Bristol Finish ...
"NE Sailboat" wrote in message news:V10Hh.11344$ig.7344@trndny01... So many products on the market. If you have an opinion? Between Bristol Finish and Cetol? cetol lasts for a long time and with a recoat every year. It does look like a stain (which it is). Varnish may last a season. I use cetol because I do not like doing varnish work in the sun. |
Cetol vs Bristol Finish ...
"Rick" wrote in message ... "NE Sailboat" wrote in message news:V10Hh.11344$ig.7344@trndny01... So many products on the market. If you have an opinion? Between Bristol Finish and Cetol? cetol lasts for a long time and with a recoat every year. It does look like a stain (which it is). Varnish may last a season. I use cetol because I do not like doing varnish work in the sun. Even in Southern California my varnish lasted longer than a single season. But it's important to keep it covered if possible when the boat isn't being used. Tiller covers, handrail covers, boom gallows covers, rail covers... many boats in SoCal have canvas houses covering the boat from stem to stern. Of course, their owners have too much money, too. |
Cetol vs Bristol Finish ...
On Mar 5, 5:34 pm, "NE Sailboat" wrote:
So many products on the market. If you have an opinion? Between Bristol Finish and Cetol? I've used both. And both last a long time. Cetol is the quickest and easiest to use of the two. And while you can top coat with their gloss finish it does not really look like varnish when you're done. So you may need to see it on another boat to deside if it's for you. Bristol looks like varnish but lasts much longer than traditional varnish. It's a two part system that takes a bit getting used to to work with because it tends to be very thin or watery when you apply it. But you can overcoat it with out sanding so you can build up coats very fast. It works best if you seal the wood with clear epoxy like West system or CPES before appling Bristol. |
Cetol vs Bristol Finish ...
On Mon, 05 Mar 2007 15:49:22 -0600, KLC Lewis wrote:
Cetol looks like paint. Varnish is more work, but looks nicer if it's maintained. The new Cetol "Marine Light" looks less like orange paint and more like traditional varnish. Matt O. |
Cetol vs Bristol Finish ...
"Charlie Morgan" wrote in message ... On Mon, 05 Mar 2007 21:34:45 GMT, "NE Sailboat" wrote: So many products on the market. If you have an opinion? Between Bristol Finish and Cetol? Cetol requires a lot less time and effort to maintain. It comes in three basic varities: Cetol Marine, which is the darkest, and most "orangy" in color. Some folks have a real thing about the way it looks. They have a lot of time to obsess about it as they sand and re-varnish every season. Cetol Light: A much lighter color than the original. Since you don';t have to sand down old Cetol to apply a refresher coat, many folks use the original for the first coat (for stronger UV protection), and then use Cetol light over it as their yearly refresh coat. That keeps the overall look from getting very dark over the years. Cetol Natural Teak: New product. Lighter than Cetol Light, and more like the color of varnished teak. I don't know for a fact, but I would guess it can't protect against UV as well as the more tinted versions. Then again, real varnish doesn't do much to protect the wood at all, which is why you have to scrape and sand it off every time you want to refresh things. That's pretty hard on the teak, which weathers under the varnish and then gets sanded! CWM Charlie, either your experience with varnish is with a horrible formulation, or you just don't have any. Quality varnish, such as "Flagship," has very high UV protection. Properly applied to properly prepared wood, it will protect extremely well. Nor does it have to be "scraped and sanded off every time you want to refresh things." Scuff the surface, clean, apply varnish topcoat, Bob's your uncle. If scuffing and cleaning the old varnish is too much for you, combine some Penetrol with the varnish and you don't even have to do that. Yes, varnish requires maintenance. But so does Cetol, for that matter. There is no substance known to man which can be applied to wood which will then forever protect and keep it shiny and pretty. Everything wears out over time. As an aside, UV protection does not require opacity, nor does opacity guarantee UV protection. |
Cetol vs Bristol Finish ...
"KLC Lewis" wrote in message et... "Charlie Morgan" wrote in message ... On Mon, 05 Mar 2007 21:34:45 GMT, "NE Sailboat" wrote: So many products on the market. If you have an opinion? Between Bristol Finish and Cetol? Cetol requires a lot less time and effort to maintain. It comes in three basic varities: Cetol Marine, which is the darkest, and most "orangy" in color. Some folks have a real thing about the way it looks. They have a lot of time to obsess about it as they sand and re-varnish every season. Cetol Light: A much lighter color than the original. Since you don';t have to sand down old Cetol to apply a refresher coat, many folks use the original for the first coat (for stronger UV protection), and then use Cetol light over it as their yearly refresh coat. That keeps the overall look from getting very dark over the years. Cetol Natural Teak: New product. Lighter than Cetol Light, and more like the color of varnished teak. I don't know for a fact, but I would guess it can't protect against UV as well as the more tinted versions. Then again, real varnish doesn't do much to protect the wood at all, which is why you have to scrape and sand it off every time you want to refresh things. That's pretty hard on the teak, which weathers under the varnish and then gets sanded! CWM Charlie, either your experience with varnish is with a horrible formulation, or you just don't have any. Quality varnish, such as "Flagship," has very high UV protection. Properly applied to properly prepared wood, it will protect extremely well. Nor does it have to be "scraped and sanded off every time you want to refresh things." Scuff the surface, clean, apply varnish topcoat, Bob's your uncle. If scuffing and cleaning the old varnish is too much for you, combine some Penetrol with the varnish and you don't even have to do that. Yes, varnish requires maintenance. But so does Cetol, for that matter. There is no substance known to man which can be applied to wood which will then forever protect and keep it shiny and pretty. Everything wears out over time. As an aside, UV protection does not require opacity, nor does opacity guarantee UV protection. I agree with KLC. "Varnish" today is not the same as the traditional varnish from 50 years ago. I've been using Interlux Goldspar which is a single part polyurethane "varnish". Eight coats and you have a beautiful clear and shiny finish. Eight coats of Cetol and you have mud. |
Cetol vs Bristol Finish ...
"Charlie Morgan" wrote in message ... On Tue, 06 Mar 2007 16:35:54 GMT, "Gordon Wedman" wrote: I agree with KLC. "Varnish" today is not the same as the traditional varnish from 50 years ago. I've been using Interlux Goldspar which is a single part polyurethane "varnish". Eight coats and you have a beautiful clear and shiny finish. Eight coats of Cetol and you have mud. EIGHT COATS? Are you looking for excuses to avoid sailing? CWM The initial application takes time and effort. After that, maintenance is as easy as Cetol with vastly superior appearance. Annual scuff, clean, topcoat. With proper wood prep, it will not peel or flake. After many years, you might want to remove and redo -- is that so difficult? If so, go ahead and paint your wood. ;-) |
Cetol vs Bristol Finish ...
"Charlie Morgan" wrote in message ... Maintenance is MUCH higher, the coating is less durable, and the UV protection for the WOOD is far less or non-existent. KLC: "Varnish is more work, but looks nicer if it's maintained." So, you've already told us that you know it's more work. KLC: "Even in Southern California my varnish lasted longer than a single season. But it's important to keep it covered if possible when the boat isn't being used. Tiller covers, handrail covers, boom gallows covers, rail covers... many boats in SoCal have canvas houses covering the boat from stem to stern." So, you also stated that you know that Varnish is not really very durable at all. You have to cover everything with REAL protection from the elements in the form of canvas covers. How good does your varnished wood look when it's covered with canvas? Why not just paint your wood with pacific blue enamel and be done with it? KLC: "Nor does it have to be "scraped and sanded off every time you want to refresh things." Scuff the surface, clean, apply varnish topcoat, Bob's your uncle." Not true. You might get away with that for one extra season (if you have carefully kept everything covered with that lovely blue canvas - which you have already told us is necessary for varnish because it offers very little protection of its own) Here are a couple of things you don't know: Clear Varnish may contain some form of UV protection or stabilization for the_varnish_itself, but does almost nothing to keep the underlying wood from being damaged by the sun. That's why you have to strip it all off every few years. The wood has still taken a beating. To protect the wood REQUIRES some level of opacity, and the more opacity, the more protection. That's why you have to cover all your wood with canvas. I don't cover any of mine. That's because my wood is protected by the finish. Yours is not. CWM Yes, varnish is more work. I have so stipulated. Regarding the covering, it prolongs the life of the varnish. Is it necessary to keep it covered all the time? Nope. I cover it when the boat is sitting because it prolongs the life of the varnish. If I were out cruising, the covers would come off and stay off because the boat is constantly presenting different surfaces to the sun, rather than the situation sitting in a slip where one side is exposed to direct sun while other surfaces are always shaded. And they aren't blue, they're green. In Long Beach, we "got away with" five years without having to strip the varnish, and it was stil in fine shape when we sold the boat. I have no idea what the current owner is doing, or even who the current owner is, as this was many years ago. UV protection in the varnish prevents UV from getting to the wood. That is the reason for it being in there to begin with. The varnish also keeps water out and oils in. And WHEN I decide to remove the varnish and start over, the wood underneath all that varnish is in beautiful shape, not damaged by the sun. This isn't theory, it's genuine experience. How opaque is the sunscreen that you put on your skin? Not at all unless you like zinc oxide. Varnish is not for everyone. If you want simple and easy, paint your wood with Cetol or some other substance. If you want beautiful brightwork, varnish it and accept that it's more work than paint. For some of us, it's worth the trade-off. |
Cetol vs Bristol Finish ...
On Tue, 06 Mar 2007 12:24:27 -0500, Charlie Morgan
wrote: To protect the wood REQUIRES some level of opacity, and the more opacity, the more protection. That's why you have to cover all your wood with canvas. I don't cover any of mine. That's because my wood is protected by the finish. I believe you also boat in the north if memory is correct? Big difference north and south. |
Cetol vs Bristol Finish ...
On Tue, 06 Mar 2007 09:02:19 -0600, KLC Lewis wrote:
Charlie, either your experience with varnish is with a horrible formulation, or you just don't have any. Quality varnish, such as "Flagship," has very high UV protection. Properly applied to properly prepared wood, it will protect extremely well. Nor does it have to be "scraped and sanded off every time you want to refresh things." Scuff the surface, clean, apply varnish topcoat, Bob's your uncle. If scuffing and cleaning the old varnish is too much for you, combine some Penetrol with the varnish and you don't even have to do that. Yes, varnish requires maintenance. But so does Cetol, for that matter. There is no substance known to man which can be applied to wood which will then forever protect and keep it shiny and pretty. Everything wears out over time. As an aside, UV protection does not require opacity, nor does opacity guarantee UV protection. I had a conversation about this with a chemical engineer from a paint company. Varnish fails because UV damages the wood underneath, destroying the bond. The more transparent the UV protection, the higher the cost, which is why cheap varnish fails quickly. Cheap varnish has either less effective additives or less of the good ones. Enough of the good ones is expensive. Classic Cetol uses iron oxide for UV protection, which explains the orange color. I imagine it has other additives too though, and the "Light" version less of the iron oxide and more of the transparent stuff. After using both Cetol Light and Deks Olje side by side for two seasons, we've switched all the exterior brightwork to Cetol Light. I was quite surprised how well the Cetol held up, especially on the areas that weren't covered over the winter. After a two year trial, it was clear which was less work -- Cetol. Matt O. |
Cetol vs Bristol Finish ...
On Mar 6, 8:03 am, Charlie Morgan wrote:
Then again, real varnish doesn't do much to protect the wood at all, which is why you have to scrape and sand it off every time you want to refresh things. That's pretty hard on the teak, which weathers under the varnish and then gets sanded! CWM Based on the above, you have never used varnish. Or at the very least have no idea how to use it correctly. |
Cetol vs Bristol Finish ...
On Mar 6, 12:30 pm, Charlie Morgan wrote:
On Tue, 6 Mar 2007 09:02:19 -0600, "KLC Lewis" wrote: "Charlie Morgan" wrote in message .. . On Mon, 05 Mar 2007 21:34:45 GMT, "NE Sailboat" wrote: So many products on the market. If you have an opinion? Between Bristol Finish and Cetol? Cetol requires a lot less time and effort to maintain. It comes in three basic varities: Cetol Marine, which is the darkest, and most "orangy" in color. Some folks have a real thing about the way it looks. They have a lot of time to obsess about it as they sand and re-varnish every season. Cetol Light: A much lighter color than the original. Since you don';t have to sand down old Cetol to apply a refresher coat, many folks use the original for the first coat (for stronger UV protection), and then use Cetol light over it as their yearly refresh coat. That keeps the overall look from getting very dark over the years. Cetol Natural Teak: New product. Lighter than Cetol Light, and more like the color of varnished teak. I don't know for a fact, but I would guess it can't protect against UV as well as the more tinted versions. Then again, real varnish doesn't do much to protect the wood at all, which is why you have to scrape and sand it off every time you want to refresh things. That's pretty hard on the teak, which weathers under the varnish and then gets sanded! CWM Charlie, either your experience with varnish is with a horrible formulation, or you just don't have any. Quality varnish, such as "Flagship," has very high UV protection. Properly applied to properly prepared wood, it will protect extremely well. Nor does it have to be "scraped and sanded off every time you want to refresh things." Scuff the surface, clean, apply varnish topcoat, Bob's your uncle. If scuffing and cleaning the old varnish is too much for you, combine some Penetrol with the varnish and you don't even have to do that. Yes, varnish requires maintenance. But so does Cetol, for that matter. There is no substance known to man which can be applied to wood which will then forever protect and keep it shiny and pretty. Everything wears out over time. As an aside, UV protection does not require opacity, nor does opacity guarantee UV protection. I disagree. Pretty much on a line for line basis. CWM- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Again, that just tells anybody who does know how to apply varnish correctly that you don't. I live in Florida and have had varnished boats go up to 10 years before having to wood them down and start a new with fresh varnish. |
Cetol vs Bristol Finish ...
On Mar 6, 12:48 pm, Charlie Morgan wrote:
On Tue, 06 Mar 2007 16:35:54 GMT, "Gordon Wedman" wrote: I agree with KLC. "Varnish" today is not the same as the traditional varnish from 50 years ago. I've been using Interlux Goldspar which is a single part polyurethane "varnish". Eight coats and you have a beautiful clear and shiny finish. Eight coats of Cetol and you have mud. EIGHT COATS? Are you looking for excuses to avoid sailing? CWM- 12 coats is about the min. for a really top quality finish. |
Cetol vs Bristol Finish ...
On Mar 6, 1:24 pm, Charlie Morgan wrote:
On Tue, 6 Mar 2007 10:58:41 -0600, "KLC Lewis" wrote: KLC: "Nor does it have to be "scraped and sanded off every time you want to refresh things." Scuff the surface, clean, apply varnish topcoat, Bob's your uncle." Not true. You might get away with that for one extra season (if you have carefully kept everything covered with that lovely blue canvas - which you have already told us is necessary for varnish because it offers very little protection of its own) Total BS. Here are a couple of things you don't know: Clear Varnish may contain some form of UV protection or stabilization for the_varnish_itself, but does almost nothing to keep the underlying wood from being damaged by the sun. That's why you have to strip it all off every few years. The wood has still taken a beating. You're back peddling now. First you said : "which is why you have to scrape and sand it off every time you want to refresh things." Now it's every few years. To protect the wood REQUIRES some level of opacity, and the more opacity, the more protection. That's why you have to cover all your wood with canvas. I don't cover any of mine. That's because my wood is protected by the finish. Yours is not. Canvas are used to prolong the life of the varnish. And extend the time between recoating. Not so much to protect the wood. |
Coating for wood wheel (was: Cetol vs Bristol Finish)
Similar to the thread topic, I am wondering what is advised for coating
a wood steering wheel? I bought this off eBay and it is NOT one of the decorative wheels with the brass hubs. this has a bronze hub that fits my Edson pedestal and appears to be mahogany. It's quite weathered and I've stripped all the remaining varnish off. (There wasn't much left anyway). I have a sunbrella type cover for wheel/pedestal/compass so this will not be left out in the elements when not in use. What would be good coating options? I'm not looking for classic yacht perfection. In fact I'm willing to trade perfection of finish off in return for less effort in coating. So far I have two suggestions: 1) Coat 2x with product from rotdoctor.com then 7-10 coats of varnish. (the wheel is not rotted. But this fellow says the product is a great sealer). 2) Use some sort of sealer or filler to even out surface, then coat 3-4x with West epoxy. Any thoughts or other ideas welcomed. (My address is phoney due to spam) |
Coating for wood wheel (was: Cetol vs Bristol Finish)
On Mar 7, 12:39 am, wrote:
Similar to the thread topic, I am wondering what is advised for coating a wood steering wheel? I bought this off eBay and it is NOT one of the decorative wheels with the brass hubs. this has a bronze hub that fits my Edson pedestal and appears to be mahogany. It's quite weathered and I've stripped all the remaining varnish off. (There wasn't much left anyway). I have a sunbrella type cover for wheel/pedestal/compass so this will not be left out in the elements when not in use. What would be good coating options? I'm not looking for classic yacht perfection. In fact I'm willing to trade perfection of finish off in return for less effort in coating. So far I have two suggestions: 1) Coat 2x with product from rotdoctor.com then 7-10 coats of varnish. (the wheel is not rotted. But this fellow says the product is a great sealer). 2) Use some sort of sealer or filler to even out surface, then coat 3-4x with West epoxy. Any thoughts or other ideas welcomed. (My address is phoney due to spam) Wood it, 2-4 coats West or CPES, sand smooth, then 4-6 sprayed coats of two part poly. Did that to two wheels 15 years ago. The interior one still looks like it was done yesterday and the exterior one lasted 8+ years semicovered before it needed recoating. |
Coating for wood wheel (was: Cetol vs Bristol Finish)
wrote in message ... Similar to the thread topic, I am wondering what is advised for coating a wood steering wheel? I bought this off eBay and it is NOT one of the decorative wheels with the brass hubs. this has a bronze hub that fits my Edson pedestal and appears to be mahogany. It's quite weathered and I've stripped all the remaining varnish off. (There wasn't much left anyway). I have a sunbrella type cover for wheel/pedestal/compass so this will not be left out in the elements when not in use. What would be good coating options? I'm not looking for classic yacht perfection. In fact I'm willing to trade perfection of finish off in return for less effort in coating. So far I have two suggestions: 1) Coat 2x with product from rotdoctor.com then 7-10 coats of varnish. (the wheel is not rotted. But this fellow says the product is a great sealer). 2) Use some sort of sealer or filler to even out surface, then coat 3-4x with West epoxy. Any thoughts or other ideas welcomed. Charlie hasn't convinced you that Cetol is the way to go? He's going to be disappointed. For something like a wheel that is going to be handled a lot and maybe banged into from time to time you may want to go with durability and I would guess epoxy is the ticket. I think that rotdoctor stuff may just be a thin type of epoxy that penetrates the wood. There was some discussion about thinning epoxy on the list a while ago and I think you can use acetone but denatured alcohol was better, up to 10%. A coat of thinned epoxy followed by several coats of regular should do it. Don't know about UV inhibitors in epoxy but it might be worth asking about as they would help preserve the wood. |
Coating for wood wheel (was: Cetol vs Bristol Finish)
On Wed, 07 Mar 2007 18:17:19 GMT, "Gordon Wedman"
wrote: A coat of thinned epoxy followed by several coats of regular should do it. Don't know about UV inhibitors in epoxy but it might be worth asking about as they would help preserve the wood. I've had bad luck with the epoxy turning cloudy after a while and ruining the look of the varnish. |
Cetol vs Bristol Finish ...
EIGHT COATS? Are you looking for excuses to avoid sailing? Nope, you have to have a base of at least 8 coats of varrnish to make it worthwhile. Any less, and it's just going to flake off and you'll be back to bare wood before you know it. Cetol is three, so it's easier, but you get "the look". Get a copy of "brightwork"(can't remember the author's name right now)... it's the bible on marine finishes. |
Coating for wood wheel (was: Cetol vs Bristol Finish)
On Mar 6, 10:39 pm, wrote:
Similar to the thread topic, I am wondering what is advised for coating a wood steering wheel? I bought this off eBay and it is NOT one of the decorative wheels with the brass hubs. this has a bronze hub that fits my Edson pedestal and appears to be mahogany. It's quite weathered and I've stripped all the remaining varnish off. (There wasn't much left anyway). I have a sunbrella type cover for wheel/pedestal/compass so this will not be left out in the elements when not in use. What would be good coating options? I'm not looking for classic yacht perfection. In fact I'm willing to trade perfection of finish off in return for less effort in coating. So far I have two suggestions: 1) Coat 2x with product from rotdoctor.com then 7-10 coats of varnish. (the wheel is not rotted. But this fellow says the product is a great sealer). 2) Use some sort of sealer or filler to even out surface, then coat 3-4x with West epoxy. Any thoughts or other ideas welcomed. (My address is phoney due to spam) I would recommend Epifanes "rubbed effect" varnish. Looks very nice, not a high gloss, but has a good grip (since it's a wheel) and protects well. |
Cetol vs Bristol Finish ...
"Keith" wrote in message ps.com... EIGHT COATS? Are you looking for excuses to avoid sailing? Nope, you have to have a base of at least 8 coats of varrnish to make it worthwhile. Any less, and it's just going to flake off and you'll be back to bare wood before you know it. Cetol is three, so it's easier, but you get "the look". Get a copy of "brightwork"(can't remember the author's name right now)... it's the bible on marine finishes. Ten or twelve would be better but I settled for eight on my handrails. Looks very good. It didn't take that much time and handrails were the only exterior wood on my C&C. My latest boat has a lot more exterior wood (which I like) so it will be taking up a fair bit of my time initially. Once its down I expect to only touch it up every once. Should never need to be stripped. |
Cetol vs Bristol Finish ...
"Gordon Wedman" wrote in message news:d1XHh.31243$Du6.18646@edtnps82... "Keith" wrote in message ps.com... EIGHT COATS? Are you looking for excuses to avoid sailing? Nope, you have to have a base of at least 8 coats of varrnish to make it worthwhile. Any less, and it's just going to flake off and you'll be back to bare wood before you know it. Cetol is three, so it's easier, but you get "the look". Get a copy of "brightwork"(can't remember the author's name right now)... it's the bible on marine finishes. Ten or twelve would be better but I settled for eight on my handrails. Looks very good. It didn't take that much time and handrails were the only exterior wood on my C&C. My latest boat has a lot more exterior wood (which I like) so it will be taking up a fair bit of my time initially. Once its down I expect to only touch it up every once. Should never need to be stripped. We have about a 5 month sailing season here in Green Bay area, so I start with 6-8 coats of varnish over two coats of Penetrol. Spring prep includes one topcoat and I'm good til the next season. Over a few years, coats build up. |
Cetol vs Bristol Finish ...
On Mar 7, 10:25 am, Charlie Morgan wrote:
On 6 Mar 2007 18:59:57 -0800, "capt.bill11" wrote: On Mar 6, 1:24 pm, Charlie Morgan wrote: On Tue, 6 Mar 2007 10:58:41 -0600, "KLC Lewis" wrote: KLC: "Nor does it have to be "scraped and sanded off every time you want to refresh things." Scuff the surface, clean, apply varnish topcoat, Bob's your uncle." Not true. You might get away with that for one extra season (if you have carefully kept everything covered with that lovely blue canvas - which you have already told us is necessary for varnish because it offers very little protection of its own) Total BS. I agree, that's why I called him on it! No, I called it first, on you! Here are a couple of things you don't know: Clear Varnish may contain some form of UV protection or stabilization for the_varnish_itself, but does almost nothing to keep the underlying wood from being damaged by the sun. That's why you have to strip it all off every few years. The wood has still taken a beating. You're back peddling now. First you said : "which is why you have to scrape and sand it off every time you want to refresh things." Now it's every few years. Are your thought processes really this disjointed? Or are you simply being intellectually dishonest? Say that again. Only this time, look in the mirror. To protect the wood REQUIRES some level of opacity, and the more opacity, the more protection. That's why you have to cover all your wood with canvas. I don't cover any of mine. That's because my wood is protected by the finish. Yours is not. Canvas are used to prolong the life of the varnish. And extend the time between recoating. Not so much to protect the wood. Doesn't matter precisely what the canvas is for. It does in the context of the discussion we are having. Talk about intellectually dishonest. It's needed when varnish is used, and not needed if you use Cetol. Canvas will prolong the life of either finish. |
Cetol vs Bristol Finish ...
On Mar 7, 10:28 am, Charlie Morgan wrote:
On 6 Mar 2007 18:47:58 -0800, "capt.bill11" wrote: On Mar 6, 8:03 am, Charlie Morgan wrote: Then again, real varnish doesn't do much to protect the wood at all, which is why you have to scrape and sand it off every time you want to refresh things. That's pretty hard on the teak, which weathers under the varnish and then gets sanded! CWM Based on the above, you have never used varnish. Or at the very least have no idea how to use it correctly. According to whom? You? That's a knee-slapper! No, it's based on your own words in reguards to the subject at hand. |
Cetol vs Bristol Finish ...
On Mar 8, 11:48 am, "Keith" wrote:
EIGHT COATS? Are you looking for excuses to avoid sailing? Nope, you have to have a base of at least 8 coats of varrnish to make it worthwhile. Any less, and it's just going to flake off and you'll be back to bare wood before you know it. Cetol is three, so it's easier, but you get "the look". Get a copy of "brightwork"(can't remember the author's name right now)... it's the bible on marine finishes. Cetol lasts much longer at 6 coats. at least here in south Florida. But since you don't have to sand between all those coats it still faster to apply than varnish. And remember Rebecca lives in the PNW as I recll. So take her words with a grain of salt if you live in the south. |
Coating for wood wheel (was: Cetol vs Bristol Finish)
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