In article , KLC Lewis
wrote:

While possibly not recommended, a friend with a diesel Mercedes of ancient
vintage once had me spray WD-40 into his engine intake while he cranked the
motor. Being essentially kerosene, this would be much safer than ether, I
think.

It was probably the propellant that did the trick.

Cheerio,

--
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Writing: http://www.author.casterbridge.net/derek-moody/
uk.rec.fishing.game Badge Page:
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Not enough can be said for NOT squirting explosives into the intake of a
small, LIGHTLY MADE diesel engine. DON'T DO THIS! Notice it says not to
do this right in the manual!

I worked in a Detroit shop when I was a kid. Mostly fisking boats and
logging equipment/trucks. Got to do basic rebuilds on 53, 71, 92
series. The head mechanic took me asides and showed me two 6-71
engines in for a rebuild. One operator used ether regularly caus it
was cheeper than a new charging system and new batteries. The other
operator never used the stuff. It was stunning to comapre the two
during de assymble!


The heat gun is a great idea if you have a power source to run it from.

Let's avoid lighting fires in the engine compartment fumes of fuel and
battery hydrogen to crank them, ok? Thanks!

Concure............................ " ...flames on boat.......bad."
Suggest using the spay can to help start the grill you moved to the
dock.
Babbit Bob

Derek Moody wrote in
:

Not enough can be said for NOT squirting explosives into the intake
of a small, LIGHTLY MADE diesel engine. DON'T DO THIS! Notice it
says not to do this right in the manual!

We appear to be talking about engines big enough to require starter
motors, I agree that tiny one or two cylinder jobs wouldn't like it (I
said a cautious squirt and into a fast spinning engine but you snipped
that bit.) With a really small engine hand cranking to help the
starter is a much better idea.


Read someone else's reply to my paragraph about GM 6-71 and 8V-92 large
diesels being overhauled. Ether starting is very hard on ANY diesel.



Larry
--
Have a little fun in the checkout line....
Ask the nearest American, "Did you see the ICE
agents chasing those Mexicans out the back door?"
....Shortens that checkout line right up...(c;

Larry wrote:

Derek Moody wrote in
:

Not enough can be said for NOT squirting explosives into the intake
of a small, LIGHTLY MADE diesel engine. DON'T DO THIS! Notice it
says not to do this right in the manual!

We appear to be talking about engines big enough to require starter
motors, I agree that tiny one or two cylinder jobs wouldn't like it (I
said a cautious squirt and into a fast spinning engine but you snipped
that bit.) With a really small engine hand cranking to help the
starter is a much better idea.


Read someone else's reply to my paragraph about GM 6-71 and 8V-92 large
diesels being overhauled. Ether starting is very hard on ANY diesel.

You said that there was a big difference, but didn't explicitly say
which one was worse or in what way.

Larry

Rosalie B. wrote in
:

You said that there was a big difference, but didn't explicitly say
which one was worse or in what way.


Slow turning large diesels tolerate ether much better than light-duty,
fast turning diesels. Fast diesels are much more prone to the ether
going off BEFORE TDC, which may cause piston or rod or crank failures.
This cannot happen if you stop pouring FUEL down its air intake into the
cylinders. There's PLENTY of heat to make fuel dumped down its air
intake EXPLODE before TDC in any diesel, which is exactly why the
instruction book forbids it....destroying the engine, either
catastrophically by breaking something, or weakening it by causing undue
stress on moving piston parts that fail prematurely later on. Repeated
use of ether to crank it repeats the weakening until something lets
go....usually through the side of the block...(c;

Not good....don't do it. HEAT THE AIR....FIX THE LOW COMPRESSION!

Larry
--
Have a little fun in the checkout line....
Ask the nearest American, "Did you see the ICE
agents chasing those Mexicans out the back door?"
....Shortens that checkout line right up...(c;

In article ,
Larry wrote:

Ask Bruce in Alaska what they use up there,
where the REAL test weather conditions occur...(shudder)

I use Chevron Delo400 15W40 in the Gensets. It works well, even
down below 0F. The manual suggests 5W40 when below -20F, but I live
next to Salt Water, and it rarely gets down that cold, here. Much
easier to keep one type of BaseOil in Stock, when you can't just
go down to the store and buy what you need. For the Rolling Stock,
(vehicals) I am using Delo 100 15W40. Snowmobiles are all 2Cycle,
so they use their own YamaLube II.

Bruce in alaska who got the WebCam up and running yesterday......
--
add a 2 before @

On Tue, 06 Mar 2007 19:56:32 GMT, Bruce in Alaska
wrote:

Bruce in alaska who got the WebCam up and running yesterday......



And the webcam URL is ??

In article ,
Wayne.B wrote:

On Tue, 06 Mar 2007 19:56:32 GMT, Bruce in Alaska
wrote:

Bruce in alaska who got the WebCam up and running yesterday......



And the webcam URL is ??


It is on the Website www.99850.net......

Bruce in alaska
--
add a 2 before @

On Wed, 07 Mar 2007 18:55:36 GMT, Bruce in Alaska
wrote:

And the webcam URL is ??


It is on the Website www.99850.net......

Found it. Looks like it needs a UID/PW, and admin/admin is not home
today. :-)

Great pictures by the way, looks like you are the local power company
and ISP all rolled into one.

In article ,
Wayne.B wrote:

On Wed, 07 Mar 2007 18:55:36 GMT, Bruce in Alaska
wrote:

And the webcam URL is ??


It is on the Website www.99850.net......

Found it. Looks like it needs a UID/PW, and admin/admin is not home
today. :-)

Great pictures by the way, looks like you are the local power company
and ISP all rolled into one.


Did you actually READ, the link? the Admin Name and Password are given
right there....

and Yes, during the winter I am the Power Company, ISP, Postmaster,
and a few other Hats..... None of which are made from TinFoil.....

Bruce in alaska thanks on the pictures
--
add a 2 before @