On Fri, 16 Feb 2007 17:53:08 -0800, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

It's a good practice as long as you don't do it excessively. If you do, you
tend to create nice drag marks in the bottom. I usually do so moderately.

I would much prefer creating a "drag mark" during the day time when
I'm wide awake, than in the middle of the night sound asleep. If the
anchor is not set well enough to withstand backing down with the
engine, especially a small sailboat engine, it will never hold during
a wind squall.

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 16 Feb 2007 16:20:58 -0500, "Roger Long"
wrote:

My 32 footer is small enough that a series of jerks
to bring her around pointing towards the anchor usually sets it very
firmly.
Then, I let out the full riding scope and usually sleep soundly.

Hopefully you back down on it with the engine at some point. That is
the acid test for me and I highly recommend it. Take a shore sight on
something to verify that you are not moving even an inch, then go to
sleep.


As the rode pays out I give it a few "jerks" to get the anchor to roll over
and start to dig in.

I "dig in" at 1500 rpm for about 20-30 seconds while taking transits on
shoe. I also feel the rode forward of the bow roller to make sure the rode
is taut and that there is no vibrations which might indicate that the anchor
is not set.

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 16 Feb 2007 17:53:08 -0800, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

It's a good practice as long as you don't do it excessively. If you do,
you
tend to create nice drag marks in the bottom. I usually do so moderately.

I would much prefer creating a "drag mark" during the day time when
I'm wide awake, than in the middle of the night sound asleep. If the
anchor is not set well enough to withstand backing down with the
engine, especially a small sailboat engine, it will never hold during
a wind squall.



Certainly true, but you don't need to leave skid marks to know the anchor is
set. We never have a problem in the SF bay area, because my old tennis shoe
would hold in the mud, but places were things aren't quite so certain, we
drop the hook, let out about 70 percent of what I believe will be the final
rode length, snub it, and back slightly. Then, assuming all is well so far,
ease out the remaining 30 percent, then back down at 1500 rpm or so... if
the boat stops moving, we're set. Never had a problem doing this. Last time
it was gusting to 35 kts, and this worked.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

"Jack Dale" wrote in message
news:d%wBh.84744$Y6.41487@edtnps89...

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 16 Feb 2007 16:20:58 -0500, "Roger Long"
wrote:

My 32 footer is small enough that a series of jerks
to bring her around pointing towards the anchor usually sets it very
firmly.
Then, I let out the full riding scope and usually sleep soundly.

Hopefully you back down on it with the engine at some point. That is
the acid test for me and I highly recommend it. Take a shore sight on
something to verify that you are not moving even an inch, then go to
sleep.


As the rode pays out I give it a few "jerks" to get the anchor to roll
over and start to dig in.

I "dig in" at 1500 rpm for about 20-30 seconds while taking transits on
shoe. I also feel the rode forward of the bow roller to make sure the
rode is taut and that there is no vibrations which might indicate that the
anchor is not set.

Great minds think alike. g

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

"Wayne.B" wrote


Hopefully you back down on it with the engine at some point. That is
the acid test for me and I highly recommend it. Take a shore sight on
something to verify that you are not moving even an inch, then go to
sleep.


Nope. Interesting how people's environment effects their perspective. What
is it you have Wayne, 6-71's? People have been anchoring under sail for a
lot longer than there have been engines. I'm not going to start the engine,
warm it up barely, and the run it up to near full power just to set an
anchor. 15 hp in reverse isn't going to put a lot more strain on it than my
heaving. With the line in your hands, you can also sense a lot about the
bottom, is the anchor just holding in weed, is it hooked on a stone. When
each jerk get's firmer and firmer, you know it's going down and will
continue to do so with more strain.

When I do anchor under power, I back down but the engine is warm and it's
convienient.

None of this is appropriate to your big power boat with it's big engines and
high windage but I've never draggged.

Shore bearings I do take.

--
Roger Long

GO TO BOTTOM .. NO TOP POSTING FOR ME.
==========================================
"Roger Long" wrote in message
...

"Wayne.B" wrote


Hopefully you back down on it with the engine at some point. That is
the acid test for me and I highly recommend it. Take a shore sight on
something to verify that you are not moving even an inch, then go to
sleep.


Nope. Interesting how people's environment effects their perspective.
What is it you have Wayne, 6-71's? People have been anchoring under sail
for a lot longer than there have been engines. I'm not going to start the
engine, warm it up barely, and the run it up to near full power just to
set an anchor. 15 hp in reverse isn't going to put a lot more strain on
it than my heaving. With the line in your hands, you can also sense a lot
about the bottom, is the anchor just holding in weed, is it hooked on a
stone. When each jerk get's firmer and firmer, you know it's going down
and will continue to do so with more strain.

When I do anchor under power, I back down but the engine is warm and it's
convienient.

None of this is appropriate to your big power boat with it's big engines
and high windage but I've never draggged.

Shore bearings I do take.

--
Roger Long
================================================== =================
This is from my Power Squadron Course .. taking it again. Always good to
get a refresher.

The vertical distance to the bottom includes: 1. height of the bow of boat
to water surface. 2. depth of water. 3. anticipated difference in water
depth due to the rise and fall of the tide.

Approach the place you intend to anchor against the wind or current;
whichever is stronger.

Lower [ never throw ] anchor, let it hit/set on bottom. Allow the boat to
drift with the wind or current. Use more rode than you need for the planned
scope. This will increase the horizontal pull ..

When satisfied the anchor is set, take in extra rode. tie to bow cleat ..
use a Cleat Hitch.

Take a bearing to object of shore. To check for dragging.

no engine .. not for sailing vessel.

"NE Sailboat" wrote in message
news:6jEBh.455$aM.343@trndny03...
GO TO BOTTOM .. NO TOP POSTING FOR ME.
==========================================
================================================== =================
This is from my Power Squadron Course .. taking it again. Always good to
get a refresher.

The vertical distance to the bottom includes: 1. height of the bow of
boat to water surface. 2. depth of water. 3. anticipated difference in
water depth due to the rise and fall of the tide.

Approach the place you intend to anchor against the wind or current;
whichever is stronger.

Lower [ never throw ] anchor, let it hit/set on bottom. Allow the boat to
drift with the wind or current. Use more rode than you need for the
planned scope. This will increase the horizontal pull ..

When satisfied the anchor is set, take in extra rode. tie to bow cleat ..
use a Cleat Hitch.

Take a bearing to object of shore. To check for dragging.

no engine .. not for sailing vessel.


My friend in Los Angeles harbor who had the ferro tank sailboat had the most
unique method of setting anchor I've ever seen. While I wouldn't repeat it,
it seemed to work for him. But then, he had a rock hull (and though I still
think fondly of him, possibly a rock head as well). He would approach his
chosen anchorage at about 5 knots, cutting the anchor loose when he judged
(if that is the right word) that he was approaching the point he wanted his
anchor to set. A 45 pound CQR tailing heavy chain would then plunge to the
bottom, chain paying out behind until it reached the preset scope,
eventually digging in and swinging the boat around. He always did this under
engine power, scaring the bejeezus out of every other boat in the anchorage
and any virgin crew aboard. He was not open to other methods of anchoring,
having had such success with his "power drop" method forever.

Downright scary.

"KLC Lewis" wrote:
He would approach his
chosen anchorage at about 5 knots, cutting the anchor loose when he judged
(if that is the right word) that he was approaching the point he wanted his
anchor to set

-Trying to get a mental picture of this- He would do this under
sail?? .... or power? And drop it from the bow while moving forward
at 5 knots? ... thereby over running the anchor and exposing the rode
to entanglement in the keel and/or prop and/or rudder? .... and/or
possibly "setting" the anchor in the wrong direction?
Surely I'm misunderstanding something.

Rick

wrote in message
...
"KLC Lewis" wrote:
He would approach his
chosen anchorage at about 5 knots, cutting the anchor loose when he judged
(if that is the right word) that he was approaching the point he wanted
his
anchor to set

-Trying to get a mental picture of this- He would do this under
sail?? .... or power? And drop it from the bow while moving forward
at 5 knots? ... thereby over running the anchor and exposing the rode
to entanglement in the keel and/or prop and/or rudder? .... and/or
possibly "setting" the anchor in the wrong direction?
Surely I'm misunderstanding something.

Rick

Under power. And no, you've got the picture exactly right. Scary.

PhantMan wrote:
.... and/or
possibly "setting" the anchor in the wrong direction?

"KLC Lewis" wrote:
until it reached the preset scope,
eventually digging in and swinging the boat around.

Oh! I see (said the blind man).
Soooo... he would do his approach from UPwind?
(no wonder it would scare the beejebees outta everybody)

Rick