Parallax wrote:

Although I have few elecrical gadgets to use power, I do worry about
having enough juice to run my VHF and running lights and am also
partial to having a small fan. Auto-pilot is also nice on long runs.
So what happens if my batteries accidently get run down? My old
Yanmar 1GM could be han cranked but my 2GM, no. However, while
looking into the engine compartment one day while under sail, I
noticed my prop shaft was spinning like mad cuz I hadnt put it in gear
(Yanmar says put it in reverse). So: maybe not so useless Idea #3727


Can you release the compression of the engine with the decompression
levers, get going good under sail with engine in gear an use the
spinning prop to sorta "push-start" the engine with you suddenly
giving it compression? I might try this next time I am out.


Unluckily, your (and our) prop freewheels in forward. If you slam it
into reverse, you would try to start the engine in the wrong direction.

Best would probably be a solar panel. Turn everything off for an hour or
two and even a 12w panel might give you enough juice: 2GMs really don't
need much power to start if everything else is in good shape.

Changing my mind: Best is two battery banks. Only draw from one at a
time, but always charge both. And upgrade any of your battery leads that
is less than 1/0. We can start off one of our group 31 batteries during
the summer even if it's showing about 11.5v. (When it's chilly, we need
better voltage, but I haven't checked it since I upgraded our cables.)

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

I had a Trojan Group 24 that easily started my 3GM30F

Pierre
"Jere Lull" wrote in message
...
Parallax wrote:

Although I have few elecrical gadgets to use power, I do worry about
having enough juice to run my VHF and running lights and am also
partial to having a small fan. Auto-pilot is also nice on long runs.
So what happens if my batteries accidently get run down? My old
Yanmar 1GM could be han cranked but my 2GM, no. However, while
looking into the engine compartment one day while under sail, I
noticed my prop shaft was spinning like mad cuz I hadnt put it in gear
(Yanmar says put it in reverse). So: maybe not so useless Idea #3727


Can you release the compression of the engine with the decompression
levers, get going good under sail with engine in gear an use the
spinning prop to sorta "push-start" the engine with you suddenly
giving it compression? I might try this next time I am out.


Unluckily, your (and our) prop freewheels in forward. If you slam it
into reverse, you would try to start the engine in the wrong direction.

Best would probably be a solar panel. Turn everything off for an hour or
two and even a 12w panel might give you enough juice: 2GMs really don't
need much power to start if everything else is in good shape.

Changing my mind: Best is two battery banks. Only draw from one at a
time, but always charge both. And upgrade any of your battery leads that
is less than 1/0. We can start off one of our group 31 batteries during
the summer even if it's showing about 11.5v. (When it's chilly, we need
better voltage, but I haven't checked it since I upgraded our cables.)

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

On Thu, 16 Oct 2003 23:19:59 GMT, in message

Jere Lull wrote:

Parallax wrote:

Although I have few elecrical gadgets to use power, I do worry about
having enough juice to run my VHF and running lights and am also
partial to having a small fan. Auto-pilot is also nice on long runs.
So what happens if my batteries accidently get run down?

Changing my mind: Best is two battery banks. Only draw from one at a
time, but always charge both.

Going that way would make me feel I was wasting the untouched bank. I
have two identical deep discharge house batteries (came with the
boat). Running on "All" minimizes the degree of discharge by spreading
it across the batteries, but leaves me open to running down past
engine starting capability. My solution is a "booster pack" -- a
sealed, self contained battery unit with jumper cable clamps that can
be used to jump start cars. Mine weighs about 10 pounds and cost about
CDN$60, making it a way simpler and cheaper bit of insurance.

Yes I know that a "better" solution would be a separate cranking
battery and associated switching.

Ryk

Ryk wrote:

On Thu, 16 Oct 2003 23:19:59 GMT, in message

Jere Lull wrote:



Parallax wrote:



Although I have few elecrical gadgets to use power, I do worry about
having enough juice to run my VHF and running lights and am also
partial to having a small fan. Auto-pilot is also nice on long runs.
So what happens if my batteries accidently get run down?





Changing my mind: Best is two battery banks. Only draw from one at a
time, but always charge both.



Going that way would make me feel I was wasting the untouched bank. I
have two identical deep discharge house batteries (came with the
boat). Running on "All" minimizes the degree of discharge by spreading
it across the batteries, but leaves me open to running down past
engine starting capability.

We have the same setup. They were group 24s, but I went to 31s a couple
of years ago. Start on both (or the good one if I drew down too much),
charge both, draw from 1. Next cycle, we draw from 2. Both batteries are
exercised about the same amount, both need replacement about the same time.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

Ryk wrote in message . ..
On Thu, 16 Oct 2003 23:19:59 GMT, in message

Jere Lull wrote:

Parallax wrote:

Although I have few elecrical gadgets to use power, I do worry about
having enough juice to run my VHF and running lights and am also
partial to having a small fan. Auto-pilot is also nice on long runs.
So what happens if my batteries accidently get run down?

Changing my mind: Best is two battery banks. Only draw from one at a
time, but always charge both.

Going that way would make me feel I was wasting the untouched bank. I
have two identical deep discharge house batteries (came with the
boat). Running on "All" minimizes the degree of discharge by spreading
it across the batteries, but leaves me open to running down past
engine starting capability. My solution is a "booster pack" -- a
sealed, self contained battery unit with jumper cable clamps that can
be used to jump start cars. Mine weighs about 10 pounds and cost about
CDN$60, making it a way simpler and cheaper bit of insurance.

Yes I know that a "better" solution would be a separate cranking
battery and associated switching.

Ryk

I looked carefully before installing the used 2GM and didnt see any
pawls for the hand crank to engage, maybe as a previous poster
suggested thee is one beneath a cover. I had serious trouble hand
starting the 1GM as I just cannot get sufficient hand torque in the
odd position I have to be in on my 28' S2. Its just damned awkward.
I have considered drilling a hole thru the engine compartment bulkhead
and making a crank extension so I can hand crank from the main cabin
but gave up that idea when I installed the 2GM. Is this still
feasible?


Another idea for a prop generator. Voltage should be directly to
speed.....so, who really needs a knotlog?

I looked carefully before installing the used 2GM and didnt see any
pawls for the hand crank to engage, maybe as a previous poster
suggested thee is one beneath a cover. I had serious trouble hand
starting the 1GM as I just cannot get sufficient hand torque in the
odd position I have to be in on my 28' S2. Its just damned awkward.
I have considered drilling a hole thru the engine compartment bulkhead
and making a crank extension so I can hand crank from the main cabin
but gave up that idea when I installed the 2GM. Is this still
feasible?

The hand crank on my 2GM (ca 1983) fits on the end of the crankshaft
pulley using a very simple arrangement of pawls. It's a somewhat
awkward arrangement that requires the removal of the bulkhead to give
room to swing the handle. The bigger problem is that, so far, I
haven't been able to start it by hand. Despite having started
similar-sized Lister diesels many times (albeit, quite a while ago)
the 2GM still defeats me -- as soon as I slip the decompressor over
the engine just stops, no matter how hard and fast I'm cranking.
Perhaps it would work better if there were a second person available
to operate the decompressor.

The answer to this seems to be the portable booster battery already
suggested.

Giles Morris

On 20 Oct 2003 12:52:34 -0700, (Giles) wrote:

The hand crank on my 2GM (ca 1983) fits on the end of the crankshaft
pulley using a very simple arrangement of pawls. It's a somewhat
awkward arrangement that requires the removal of the bulkhead to give
room to swing the handle. The bigger problem is that, so far, I
haven't been able to start it by hand. Despite having started
similar-sized Lister diesels many times (albeit, quite a while ago)
the 2GM still defeats me -- as soon as I slip the decompressor over
the engine just stops, no matter how hard and fast I'm cranking.
Perhaps it would work better if there were a second person available
to operate the decompressor.

The answer to this seems to be the portable booster battery already
suggested.

Giles Morris

The trick I have been told is to remove the link between the 2
cylinder. Open both levers. Crank it as fast as you can and get it
going on one by dropping the lever. Once it's going you can drop the
other one. I haven't tried it yet.


Jeannette Bristol 32, San Francisco
http://www.eblw.com/contepartiro/contepartiro.html