Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
A Question on Friction ?? (long)
I'm having a problem getting my head around this problem..
I have a Lewmar vertical model 1000 electric anchor windlass. The friction disk that is between the gypsy and the drum is a flat ring of brittle friction material, ~1/2" wide, ~3/16" thick and ~4" dia. This ring sets in a groove in the gypsy top surface. The top surface of this disc contacts a smooth chromed surface on the bottom of the rope (warping) drum. The friction disc kinda got broken when I backed off to much on the clutch release nut on top to allow the anchor to free fall. When the gypsy spun wildly, the friction ring appearently jumped out of that shallow goove in the gypsy. When I tightened down on the nut to slow the free fall, the friction ring didn't fall back into it's groove and broke into several pieces. I managed to get enough metal to metal friction to prevent the total chain length from running out. Parts are no longer available hear in the US for this model so I went to a very helpful brake and clutch shop in Tacoma. The fellow that worked with me was a blue water sailer and knew exactly what I wanted. However he recommended that I bond the new friction ring into the groove on the gypsy top to prevent it from jumping out again. We did this and every thing works fine 'however'... I can no longer free-fall the anchor until I have about 50-60 ft of chain out or when motoring astern after the anchor has taken bit. Seems like there is too much friction now. Is this due to the new type of friction material (looks courser) or is it because I only have a single friction surface (as opposed to the two with the OEM arrangement) that is free when I release the clutch nut?? Was it a mistake to glue/bond the new disk to the gypsy, thus eliminating one free surface when released?? OK, How about a couple guys to get your 'egg heads' around this question. Me? I can even spell physics. Steve s/v Good Intentions |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
A Question on Friction ?? (long)
Steve wrote:
Seems like there is too much friction now. Yeah, the new disk is probably little bit thicker than the old one and it is certainly spaced a little bit further out due to the adhesive so naturally it will drag a bit. The friction surfaces are also probably a bit rougher after your metal to metal incident. I believe that use will smooth things out and you will have one less thing to worry about soon. Rick |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
A Question on Friction ?? (long)
I really don't see where the thickness would have any bearing on this
problem since when released fully, even with the OEM disc, the warping drum still is in full contact with the upper face of the friction disc. T The drum isn't lifted off the disc, just less pressure from the engagement nut. Zero clearance when free running. Sight pressure from the weight of the drum, to increasing pressure as the engagement nut is tightened. Thanks Steve s/v Good Intentions |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
A Question on Friction ?? (long)
In re-reading my post;
Perhaps the term "engagement nut" is incorrect. There is no engagement, as in a locking situation. Even at full pressure from the winch handle tightening the nut, there is still only friction binding the two surfaces and reducing slippage. However in my situation with the OEM disc, the anchor/chain would free fall once I powered down until the anchor was off the bow roller. Now I have to power down to near water depth (~40 ft). There is no opportunity, in ordinary use, to have the surfaces polish or smooth themselves. In order to power down, I have to tighten the clutch so the motor shaft is engaged thru the warping drum to the gypsy. I've even considered putting a little grease on the disc surface to encourage some slippage. If it doesn't work, I can always clean it off with brake cleaner/solvent. (I did this on the rust pitted winch clutches and brakes on my 50 yr old mobile crane. My seem radical, but it works fine for my purposes.) Steve s/v Good Intentions |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
A Question on Friction ?? (long)
Steve wrote:
In order to power down, I have to tighten the clutch so the motor shaft is engaged thru the warping drum to the gypsy. So just "power down" with the clutch "loose" it will slip when it's worn enough ... try lifting with the clutch loose and it will hasten the running in process. I've even considered putting a little grease on the disc surface to encourage some slippage. That would be a big mistake. Rick |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
A Question on Friction ?? (long)
I've even considered putting a little grease on the disc surface to encourage some slippage. That would be a big mistake. I kinda expected and deserved the admonishment Rick. Thanks Steve s/v Good Intentions |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
A Question on Friction ?? (long)
Don't put grease on the surface face. It won't do what you want it to.
Instead of slipping it will grab. Try cleaning the surface with brake cleaner to remove any oil and grease. Jack "Steve" wrote in message ... I'm having a problem getting my head around this problem.. I have a Lewmar vertical model 1000 electric anchor windlass. The friction disk that is between the gypsy and the drum is a flat ring of brittle friction material, ~1/2" wide, ~3/16" thick and ~4" dia. This ring sets in a groove in the gypsy top surface. The top surface of this disc contacts a smooth chromed surface on the bottom of the rope (warping) drum. The friction disc kinda got broken when I backed off to much on the clutch release nut on top to allow the anchor to free fall. When the gypsy spun wildly, the friction ring appearently jumped out of that shallow goove in the gypsy. When I tightened down on the nut to slow the free fall, the friction ring didn't fall back into it's groove and broke into several pieces. I managed to get enough metal to metal friction to prevent the total chain length from running out. Parts are no longer available hear in the US for this model so I went to a very helpful brake and clutch shop in Tacoma. The fellow that worked with me was a blue water sailer and knew exactly what I wanted. However he recommended that I bond the new friction ring into the groove on the gypsy top to prevent it from jumping out again. We did this and every thing works fine 'however'... I can no longer free-fall the anchor until I have about 50-60 ft of chain out or when motoring astern after the anchor has taken bit. Seems like there is too much friction now. Is this due to the new type of friction material (looks courser) or is it because I only have a single friction surface (as opposed to the two with the OEM arrangement) that is free when I release the clutch nut?? Was it a mistake to glue/bond the new disk to the gypsy, thus eliminating one free surface when released?? OK, How about a couple guys to get your 'egg heads' around this question. Me? I can even spell physics. Steve s/v Good Intentions |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Lewmar windlass are pieces of **** - was A Question on Friction ?? (long)
It was a mistake to try to fix these crappy products. Deep 6 it and
buy something to go cruising with. On Fri, 10 Oct 2003 09:01:24 -0700, "Steve" wrote: I'm having a problem getting my head around this problem.. I have a Lewmar vertical model 1000 electric anchor windlass. The friction disk that is between the gypsy and the drum is a flat ring of brittle friction material, ~1/2" wide, ~3/16" thick and ~4" dia. This ring sets in a groove in the gypsy top surface. The top surface of this disc contacts a smooth chromed surface on the bottom of the rope (warping) drum. The friction disc kinda got broken when I backed off to much on the clutch release nut on top to allow the anchor to free fall. When the gypsy spun wildly, the friction ring appearently jumped out of that shallow goove in the gypsy. When I tightened down on the nut to slow the free fall, the friction ring didn't fall back into it's groove and broke into several pieces. I managed to get enough metal to metal friction to prevent the total chain length from running out. Parts are no longer available hear in the US for this model so I went to a very helpful brake and clutch shop in Tacoma. The fellow that worked with me was a blue water sailer and knew exactly what I wanted. However he recommended that I bond the new friction ring into the groove on the gypsy top to prevent it from jumping out again. We did this and every thing works fine 'however'... I can no longer free-fall the anchor until I have about 50-60 ft of chain out or when motoring astern after the anchor has taken bit. Seems like there is too much friction now. Is this due to the new type of friction material (looks courser) or is it because I only have a single friction surface (as opposed to the two with the OEM arrangement) that is free when I release the clutch nut?? Was it a mistake to glue/bond the new disk to the gypsy, thus eliminating one free surface when released?? OK, How about a couple guys to get your 'egg heads' around this question. Me? I can even spell physics. Steve s/v Good Intentions |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Lewmar windlass are pieces of **** - was A Question on Friction ?? (long)
"Jane" wrote in message ... It was a mistake to try to fix these crappy products. Deep 6 it and buy something to go cruising with. Sorry to hear that Jane, My primaries and most of my secondarys, as well as my anchor windlass, are Lewmar. I find no fault with the winches, other than the parts problem for older models. This windlass is new but I purchased it 8 years ago but didn't start using it until this season. The damaged friction ring was due to my error in backing off on the nut too far.. All part of learning how to operate new equipment. -- My opinion and experience. FWIW Steve s/v Good Intentions |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
) OT ) Bush's "needless war" | General | |||
Another strip-plank question - a bit long | Boat Building | |||
"The SEARCH" redux (long, as usual) | Cruising | |||
Long Island Sound wave height question | General | |||
long vs. extra long shaft | Cruising |