Dick,

We have the exact same Heart unit in our marine canvas
bus. It has never acted as you describe. A call to
Xantrex is cheap. They can give you the correct answer
with no doubt rather than the specuations you will get
otherwise.

Doug

"Dick Locke" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 9 Oct 2003 16:43:20 -0400, "Jeff Morris"
jeffmo@NoSpam-sv-lokiDOTcom wrote:

You haven't mentioned how you know the charger is running - are you
seeing a Voltage or a
current flow? Its possible that you're getting a faulty reading from the
Link indicating
a small current flow. You might try putting an Ammeter in series with
the battery
connection to verify the flow.
Voltage...on the boat's master voltmeter.

If I turn off the charger when the batteries are fully charged, first
a relay clicks off and amps drop to zero or go slightly negative.
Within 5 minutes, the relay clicks on again and the voltage climbs to
the gel's accept voltage of 14.4. Amps go up to 5-10 also. After a
while, amps drop off to a mild trickle (.1-.4) and the voltage drops
to 13.6. The relay never clicks off. The indicator lights never go on.

I'm going to do a hard reset next time I'm on the boat, since nobody
said "Hey mine does that too."


FTIW, my Heart charger is "on" 24/7 most of the time - I don't recall
every turning it
off. Since my fridge is DC I rely on the charger to keep it running, and
as longs as it
doesn't over/under charge the batteries I don't see the problem.

My refrig is AC, and there should be no DC running except for an
occasional bilge pump.



"Dick Locke" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 09 Oct 2003 12:17:42 GMT, (Larry W4CSC) wrote:

If it's not using much water, the battery isn't "hot" (warm is
normal), and there's not a lot of gassing going on.....stop worrying
about it and let it get on with its job.....

They are gels, so probably won't outgas. I'll check temp. Somehow,
though, I think a charger that is on without any indicator lights
saying so is going to bite me on the butt sometime.

In article , Dick Locke
wrote:
is it possible that the charger/inverter is wired into the inverter
output? I have my unit wired so that the inverter output goes to only
one outlet on the boat. if your interverter is wired to the entire
boats 110v system then it would be possible that the above scenario
could be the culprit.

If so then the batteries via the inverter would be trying to charge
themselves. Hence the increase of voltage.

karlheinz
s/v Evensong

Still finding surprises on a used boat.

It has a Freedom 25 Charger/Inverter, controlled by a Link 2000.

When I turn off the charger using the button on the Link, the charger
only stays off for a few minutes. When the fully charged battery drops
to about 13.6v, the charger switches back on. It's subtle, because the
"charge", "accept" and "float" lights and the "charge" light do not
light. If you're not watching the voltmeter, you won't notice.

Is this the way it's supposed to work? The manuals imply that this is
the default option that can be overridden by DIP switches on a manual
control panel that I think the Link replaced.

The only way I can shut down the charging is to kill the 110 to the
Heart. Unfortunately there is no separate breaker on that line.

On Thu, 9 Oct 2003 21:54:38 -0400, "Doug Dotson"
wrote:

We have the exact same Heart unit in our marine canvas
bus. It has never acted as you describe. A call to
Xantrex is cheap. They can give you the correct answer
with no doubt rather than the specuations you will get
otherwise.

Doug

OK, I used the 20th century method and spent a half-hour on the phone.

This was a "situation" they corrected with a software revision soon
after they built my unit in 1994. It needs either a new PLCC chip that
Heart doesn't have any more or a new $300 controller board. I've got a
local service guy looking for the chip. He says he can't get the
board.

When inventorying the boat I found two pieces of 2x4 that had written
on them "Do not throw these away. Needed for installing Heart
Interface." If I have to take the unit out, it could get interesting.

Thanks for the theories and advice, everyone.

At least you got the bottom line. Not sure what you mean about the 20th
century method. I didn't think that the Freedom line existed in 1994. I
assumed it is the same unit we have which is only 3 years old.

Doug

"Dick Locke" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 9 Oct 2003 21:54:38 -0400, "Doug Dotson"
wrote:

We have the exact same Heart unit in our marine canvas
bus. It has never acted as you describe. A call to
Xantrex is cheap. They can give you the correct answer
with no doubt rather than the specuations you will get
otherwise.

Doug

OK, I used the 20th century method and spent a half-hour on the phone.

This was a "situation" they corrected with a software revision soon
after they built my unit in 1994. It needs either a new PLCC chip that
Heart doesn't have any more or a new $300 controller board. I've got a
local service guy looking for the chip. He says he can't get the
board.

When inventorying the boat I found two pieces of 2x4 that had written
on them "Do not throw these away. Needed for installing Heart
Interface." If I have to take the unit out, it could get interesting.

Thanks for the theories and advice, everyone.

On Fri, 10 Oct 2003 18:16:05 -0400, "Doug Dotson"
wrote:

Not sure what you mean about the 20th
century method.

I got wrapped up into thinking (this being 21st century and all) that
email and the internet were the way to solve everything....
incidentally I just got a response to my email of a few days ago
saying "try ferrite beads, keep the phone cord away from the unit and
if that doesn't work bring it in for service." Yikes

Dick,

Ferrite beads only make sense if there is some sort of interference
affecting the unit. The phone cord thing is a mystery to me. Neither
of these can explain your problem in my opinion. Ferrite beads have
sort of become like asprin lately. Put on two beads and call me in the
morning

Doug

"Dick Locke" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 10 Oct 2003 18:16:05 -0400, "Doug Dotson"
wrote:

Not sure what you mean about the 20th
century method.

I got wrapped up into thinking (this being 21st century and all) that
email and the internet were the way to solve everything....
incidentally I just got a response to my email of a few days ago
saying "try ferrite beads, keep the phone cord away from the unit and
if that doesn't work bring it in for service." Yikes