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#1
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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I hate the nav lights that came with my J/100. The days when they have
worked are less than 40% of the time I have tried to turn them on. Does anyone have a fool proof plan for lights that work? Should I replace mine with LEDs (I haven't much paid attention to the LED threads so I am not sure they are legal or work). If my problem is bad wiring, is there a wireless solution (or inexpensive one). I plan to cruise next summer and take my daughter night sailing. But not if I cannot fix these problems. Harlan -- To respond, obviously drop the "nospan"? |
#2
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Quick question first - are we talking masthead lights , i.e port ,starboard
and all round in one unit up top ? If so I'd reckon there are a couple of obvious areas to be looked at. First up you should check the size of the wiring up the mast. If it is undersized you will have severe voltage drop problems and this will contribute to the lack of reliability. Secondly check all the terminals. It's quite possible that connections are badly corroded and only occasionally making a contact of any sort. You should have a connection box somewhere near the mast step. If you rig up a test lamp and connect it to each connection in turn you will at least know whether the problem is at deck level or up top. If it is the connectors replace them with all brass units. Be careful cos amazingly enough some brass connectors come with mild steel screws which of course is a recipe for disaster. Regards tdw "Harlan Lachman" wrote in message ... I hate the nav lights that came with my J/100. The days when they have worked are less than 40% of the time I have tried to turn them on. Does anyone have a fool proof plan for lights that work? Should I replace mine with LEDs (I haven't much paid attention to the LED threads so I am not sure they are legal or work). If my problem is bad wiring, is there a wireless solution (or inexpensive one). I plan to cruise next summer and take my daughter night sailing. But not if I cannot fix these problems. Harlan -- To respond, obviously drop the "nospan"? |
#3
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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In article , tdw wrote:
Quick question first - are we talking masthead lights , i.e port ,starboard and all round in one unit up top ? That might be a better solution. But no! I have deck lites for port and starboard and about a third the way up the mast a white steaming light. I have a white light hanging on the rail on the stern. No anchor lite but a switch on the panel. If so I'd reckon there are a couple of obvious areas to be looked at. First up you should check the size of the wiring up the mast. If it is undersized you will have severe voltage drop problems and this will contribute to the lack of reliability. Secondly check all the terminals. It's quite possible that connections are badly corroded and only occasionally making a contact of any sort. You should have a connection box somewhere near the mast step. If you rig up a test lamp and connect it to each connection in turn you will at least know whether the problem is at deck level or up top. If it is the connectors replace them with all brass units. Be careful cos amazingly enough some brass connectors come with mild steel screws which of course is a recipe for disaster. Regards tdw These are all good suggestions. Maybe I should fix what I got but I was wondering if there was a replacement strategy which was sure to work. harlan -- To respond, obviously drop the "nospan"? |
#4
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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It might be a tad hard to rewire. Depending on age of boat, but presuming
she is a few years old and plastic then the wiring may well be embedded in the fibreglass which makes rewiring a bit hard. I reckon it's a connection issue. Nav lights are so damn simple that about the only things that can stop them completely are blown lamps (bulbs , light globes , call 'em what you will) and bad connections. If you have dirty connections in the light itself then while replacing them will solve your problem a good clean, freshly stripped ends, maybe even a bit of solder on the tips will do just as well for a lot less money. On the other hand if the bad connection is at the board or in a junction box then nothing will be solved by new lights. In the light itself the bad connection may even be a corroded terminal in the lampholder itself. Cheers Andrew "Harlan Lachman" wrote in message ... In article , tdw wrote: Quick question first - are we talking masthead lights , i.e port ,starboard and all round in one unit up top ? That might be a better solution. But no! I have deck lites for port and starboard and about a third the way up the mast a white steaming light. I have a white light hanging on the rail on the stern. No anchor lite but a switch on the panel. If so I'd reckon there are a couple of obvious areas to be looked at. First up you should check the size of the wiring up the mast. If it is undersized you will have severe voltage drop problems and this will contribute to the lack of reliability. Secondly check all the terminals. It's quite possible that connections are badly corroded and only occasionally making a contact of any sort. You should have a connection box somewhere near the mast step. If you rig up a test lamp and connect it to each connection in turn you will at least know whether the problem is at deck level or up top. If it is the connectors replace them with all brass units. Be careful cos amazingly enough some brass connectors come with mild steel screws which of course is a recipe for disaster. Regards tdw These are all good suggestions. Maybe I should fix what I got but I was wondering if there was a replacement strategy which was sure to work. harlan -- To respond, obviously drop the "nospan"? |
#5
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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In article , tdw wrote:
It might be a tad hard to rewire. Depending on age of boat, but presuming she is a few years old and plastic then the wiring may well be embedded in the fibreglass which makes rewiring a bit hard. I reckon it's a connection issue. Nav lights are so damn simple that about the only things that can stop them completely are blown lamps (bulbs , light globes , call 'em what you will) and bad connections. If you have dirty connections in the light itself then while replacing them will solve your problem a good clean, freshly stripped ends, maybe even a bit of solder on the tips will do just as well for a lot less money. On the other hand if the bad connection is at the board or in a junction box then nothing will be solved by new lights. In the light itself the bad connection may even be a corroded terminal in the lampholder itself. Cheers Andrew "Harlan Lachman" wrote in message ... In article , tdw wrote: Quick question first - are we talking masthead lights , i.e port ,starboard and all round in one unit up top ? That might be a better solution. But no! I have deck lites for port and starboard and about a third the way up the mast a white steaming light. I have a white light hanging on the rail on the stern. No anchor lite but a switch on the panel. If so I'd reckon there are a couple of obvious areas to be looked at. First up you should check the size of the wiring up the mast. If it is undersized you will have severe voltage drop problems and this will contribute to the lack of reliability. Secondly check all the terminals. It's quite possible that connections are badly corroded and only occasionally making a contact of any sort. You should have a connection box somewhere near the mast step. If you rig up a test lamp and connect it to each connection in turn you will at least know whether the problem is at deck level or up top. If it is the connectors replace them with all brass units. Be careful cos amazingly enough some brass connectors come with mild steel screws which of course is a recipe for disaster. Regards tdw These are all good suggestions. Maybe I should fix what I got but I was wondering if there was a replacement strategy which was sure to work. harlan -- To respond, obviously drop the "nospan"? Thank you Andrew. I like the solder idea. Someone else thought I could replace just the bulbs with LEDs. Any thoughts about this? -- To respond, obviously drop the "nospan"? |
#6
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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LED light sources for marine use have a lot going for them. The extremely
low power consumption is an obvious advantage, added to this is that the low wattage of the led lamps means that voltage drop through the wiring is not so much of a problem. The one area where you need to be careful with led lamps is that some do not give an adequate spread for use as nav lights. There are available led arrays that can be simply retrofitted (retrofitted ? not sure I like the word but...) into existing bayonet or bipin lampholders. By the way, I'm not trying to dissuade you from getting new nav lights. By the sounds of things your old ones are way past there use by date and let's face it nav lights are not the most expensive thing on your boat to replace. My point has been that even crappy old nav lights will work if the connections and wiring are good unless of course the lampholders themselves are corroded beyond redemption. My basic suggestion still stands. Rig up a test lampholder and starting at the lights themselves see what happens. If nothing at the light itself then work back until you get to the battery. Cheers Andrew ps - Anyone thinking of replacing there cabin lights with LED lamps should first try one out for the quality of the light. They are good for reading and chart work perhaps but they are a very "unfriendly" light source. I'm going LED for my nav and chart table lighting but sticking with incandescent and halogen for everything else and that's because of the quality of the light itself. A "Harlan Lachman" wrote in message ... In article , tdw wrote: It might be a tad hard to rewire. Depending on age of boat, but presuming she is a few years old and plastic then the wiring may well be embedded in the fibreglass which makes rewiring a bit hard. I reckon it's a connection issue. Nav lights are so damn simple that about the only things that can stop them completely are blown lamps (bulbs , light globes , call 'em what you will) and bad connections. If you have dirty connections in the light itself then while replacing them will solve your problem a good clean, freshly stripped ends, maybe even a bit of solder on the tips will do just as well for a lot less money. On the other hand if the bad connection is at the board or in a junction box then nothing will be solved by new lights. In the light itself the bad connection may even be a corroded terminal in the lampholder itself. Cheers Andrew "Harlan Lachman" wrote in message ... In article , tdw wrote: Quick question first - are we talking masthead lights , i.e port ,starboard and all round in one unit up top ? That might be a better solution. But no! I have deck lites for port and starboard and about a third the way up the mast a white steaming light. I have a white light hanging on the rail on the stern. No anchor lite but a switch on the panel. If so I'd reckon there are a couple of obvious areas to be looked at. First up you should check the size of the wiring up the mast. If it is undersized you will have severe voltage drop problems and this will contribute to the lack of reliability. Secondly check all the terminals. It's quite possible that connections are badly corroded and only occasionally making a contact of any sort. You should have a connection box somewhere near the mast step. If you rig up a test lamp and connect it to each connection in turn you will at least know whether the problem is at deck level or up top. If it is the connectors replace them with all brass units. Be careful cos amazingly enough some brass connectors come with mild steel screws which of course is a recipe for disaster. Regards tdw These are all good suggestions. Maybe I should fix what I got but I was wondering if there was a replacement strategy which was sure to work. harlan -- To respond, obviously drop the "nospan"? Thank you Andrew. I like the solder idea. Someone else thought I could replace just the bulbs with LEDs. Any thoughts about this? -- To respond, obviously drop the "nospan"? |
#7
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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You could just put simple battery powered dinghy lights up, but that
doesn't seem like a step forward. Otherwise, you have to supply juice through wires, and since you have a system that is probably 99% functional, it would seem to be appropriate to track down the failing 1%. My guess is that the person installing the lights forgot to finish the job and left the seal a bit loose, allowing moisture to get in. It seems odd to me that you went a season without even looking into this; are they that inaccessible? And did they really ship a boat without an anchor light? Harlan Lachman wrote: In article , tdw wrote: Quick question first - are we talking masthead lights , i.e port ,starboard and all round in one unit up top ? That might be a better solution. But no! I have deck lites for port and starboard and about a third the way up the mast a white steaming light. I have a white light hanging on the rail on the stern. No anchor lite but a switch on the panel. If so I'd reckon there are a couple of obvious areas to be looked at. First up you should check the size of the wiring up the mast. If it is undersized you will have severe voltage drop problems and this will contribute to the lack of reliability. Secondly check all the terminals. It's quite possible that connections are badly corroded and only occasionally making a contact of any sort. You should have a connection box somewhere near the mast step. If you rig up a test lamp and connect it to each connection in turn you will at least know whether the problem is at deck level or up top. If it is the connectors replace them with all brass units. Be careful cos amazingly enough some brass connectors come with mild steel screws which of course is a recipe for disaster. Regards tdw These are all good suggestions. Maybe I should fix what I got but I was wondering if there was a replacement strategy which was sure to work. harlan |
#8
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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In article ,
Jeff wrote: You could just put simple battery powered dinghy lights up, but that doesn't seem like a step forward. OTOH, it is the minimal preparedness I should have. Thanks for reminding an old fart to use his brain. Otherwise, you have to supply juice through wires, and since you have a system that is probably 99% functional, it would seem to be appropriate to track down the failing 1%. My guess is that the person installing the lights forgot to finish the job and left the seal a bit loose, allowing moisture to get in. It seems odd to me that you went a season without even looking into this; are they that inaccessible? And did they really ship a boat without an anchor light? Actually, my yard looked at the lights a number of times and was unable to fix the problem. Every time they checked, things "apparently" worked fine. And, yes, the boat shipped without an anchor lite. Harlan Harlan Lachman wrote: In article , tdw wrote: Quick question first - are we talking masthead lights , i.e port ,starboard and all round in one unit up top ? That might be a better solution. But no! I have deck lites for port and starboard and about a third the way up the mast a white steaming light. I have a white light hanging on the rail on the stern. No anchor lite but a switch on the panel. If so I'd reckon there are a couple of obvious areas to be looked at. First up you should check the size of the wiring up the mast. If it is undersized you will have severe voltage drop problems and this will contribute to the lack of reliability. Secondly check all the terminals. It's quite possible that connections are badly corroded and only occasionally making a contact of any sort. You should have a connection box somewhere near the mast step. If you rig up a test lamp and connect it to each connection in turn you will at least know whether the problem is at deck level or up top. If it is the connectors replace them with all brass units. Be careful cos amazingly enough some brass connectors come with mild steel screws which of course is a recipe for disaster. Regards tdw These are all good suggestions. Maybe I should fix what I got but I was wondering if there was a replacement strategy which was sure to work. harlan -- To respond, obviously drop the "nospan"? |
#9
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Harlan Lachman wrote:
It seems odd to me that you went a season without even looking into this; are they that inaccessible? And did they really ship a boat without an anchor light? Actually, my yard looked at the lights a number of times and was unable to fix the problem. Every time they checked, things "apparently" worked fine. This isn't rocket science - if your yard can't figure it out they're not trying. Do they send a kid who flips the switch, or do they strip it down and look for corrosion or cold solder? And, yes, the boat shipped without an anchor lite. You can get a Davis MegaLight. With the low power bulb it uses about 1 AH a night, and with the high power bulb it is as bright as a standard anchor light. However, it is not certified, because its too easy for someone to change the bulb! We use ours in addition to the anchor, or in mooring fields where a light is needed, because sometimes its easier to spot the light dangling 8 feet over the water then at the masthead. |
#10
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![]() tdw wrote: First up you should check the size of the wiring up the mast. If it is undersized you will have severe voltage drop problems and this will contribute to the lack of reliability. Undersized wiring with its associated voltage drop just means the lights will glow less brightly, and may not meet Coast Guard specifications for brightness. Incandescent bulbs *like* lower voltage and last longer. Shouldn't affect reliability. Assuming it's not also crappy wiring with compromised insulation, or ridiculously undersized, like 22 gauge or smaller. Corrosion at contact points is usually the problem; check switches, fuse carriers, connections, bulb mounts, etc. |
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