Sanitation Hose
I am installing a new head and am going to use fresh water for flushing
getting away from sal****er. I would like to know if the fresh water will disolve the build-up inside the hose or do I need to replace the whole sanitation line. It's about a 20 to 25 foot run to the holding tank. Any help is appreciated. Thanks Don |
Sanitation Hose
Don wrote:
I am installing a new head and am going to use fresh water for flushing getting away from sal****er. You aren't gonna connect a toilet designed to use sea water to your fresh water system, are you? That can't be done without risk of contaminating the potable water supply with e-coli, damage to the toilet, or both...and every toilet mfr specifically warns against it. ONLY toilets designed to use pressurized flush water can safely be connected to the fresh water system. I would like to know if the fresh water will disolve the build-up inside the hose... Nope... ... or do I need to replace the whole sanitation line. You don't have to do that either. A 12% solution of muriatic acid in water will dissolve it. Or, if you'd rather not use muriatic acid, repeated doses of white vinegar will do the trick. It's about a 20 to 25 foot run to the holding tank. Unless it's all downhill, that's at least 4 x further than all but a few high end electric toilets can move bowl contents...you'll always have waste sitting in the line, and that will result in stinky hoses. The optimal distance from the toilet to a tank is 6' or less...10' is the absolute max. So I think you may need a bit more help than you asked for. If you'd like to email me, I'll be glad to help you spec out a system that won't create more problems than it solves: phnlr (hyphen)misc(at) yahoo(dot)com. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304 |
Sanitation Hose
Peggie Hall wrote:
It's about a 20 to 25 foot run to the holding tank. Unless it's all downhill, that's at least 4 x further than all but a few high end electric toilets can move bowl contents...you'll always have waste sitting in the line, and that will result in stinky hoses. The optimal distance from the toilet to a tank is 6' or less...10' is the absolute max. This touches on a question I had for you. I've added the manual pump in series with the electric on my Lavac. The performance has been getting weaker over the years, and the manual pump is need as a frequent backup. In tracing all of the hoses I now understand why its always been sluggish. The water intake line is about 12 feet long, the head output to the pump should be two feet, but they circled it around for at least ten, and the holding tank is about 12 or 15 feet from the pump. Thus the total run is maybe 35 feet, an awful lot for even the Lavac pump. Some of this will be dealt with in the Fall (if we last that long!) but I wonder about one item: The waste line from the pump goes up to 5 feet over the sole, then down under the sole, under the shower, though the engine compartment and then rises up to go into the holding tank which is built into the stern steps. This means there's a low section about 6 feet long, maybe 3 feet lower than the high point near the tank. Is this very bad, or just sub-optimal? Since I can't shorten this, should I keep it high, perhaps using some pvc as a conduit to run it through the shower? And how much do I have to clean the hose that might not ever come out of the bilge? TIA, Jeff |
Sanitation Hose
If I had a, let's say, lavac toilet, and a dedicated freshwater tank
for flushing - with a manual pump, why wouldn't it work? Since the freshwater tank would not be pressurized, wouldn't that solve the problem? Or are there other issues in regards to salinity that cannot be worked around? I'm not trying to re-invent the wheel, just curious. The idea of being able to use the highly praised Lavac with freshwater and a manual pump sounds like it might be a good combo. My boat has more fresh water than I can ever use. On Wed, 19 Jul 2006 22:56:18 GMT, Peggie Hall wrote: Don wrote: I am installing a new head and am going to use fresh water for flushing getting away from sal****er. You aren't gonna connect a toilet designed to use sea water to your fresh water system, are you? That can't be done without risk of contaminating the potable water supply with e-coli, damage to the toilet, or both...and every toilet mfr specifically warns against it. ONLY toilets designed to use pressurized flush water can safely be connected to the fresh water system. I would like to know if the fresh water will disolve the build-up inside the hose... Nope... ... or do I need to replace the whole sanitation line. You don't have to do that either. A 12% solution of muriatic acid in water will dissolve it. Or, if you'd rather not use muriatic acid, repeated doses of white vinegar will do the trick. It's about a 20 to 25 foot run to the holding tank. Unless it's all downhill, that's at least 4 x further than all but a few high end electric toilets can move bowl contents...you'll always have waste sitting in the line, and that will result in stinky hoses. The optimal distance from the toilet to a tank is 6' or less...10' is the absolute max. So I think you may need a bit more help than you asked for. If you'd like to email me, I'll be glad to help you spec out a system that won't create more problems than it solves: phnlr (hyphen)misc(at) yahoo(dot)com. |
Sanitation Hose
Ruskie wrote:
If I had a, let's say, lavac toilet, and a dedicated freshwater tank for flushing - with a manual pump, why wouldn't it work? As long as it's connected to a dedicated tank that isn't linked in any way to your fresh water system, it WILL work. When it comes to connecting toilets to the onboard fresh water Since the freshwater tank would not be pressurized, wouldn't that solve the problem? Or are there other issues in regards to salinity that cannot be worked around? As long as the supply source is completely separate from the fresh water supply, it doesn't matter what kind of toilet is connected to it...the only issue is the danger of polluting the potable water supply. \ And don't think you're out of the woods if you don't drink the onboard water...you wash your hands in it...then pick up a sandwich. You rinse out a glass, then pour your bottled water into that glass--which is now about as clean as your toilet bowl. I'm not trying to re-invent the wheel, just curious. The idea of being able to use the highly praised Lavac with freshwater and a manual pump sounds like it might be a good combo. The Lavac is a raw watr toilet...if you want to flush with with fresh water, you'll have to provide a source for the flush water than isn't connected in any way to your fresh water plumbing. My boat has more fresh water than I can ever use. Then take longer showers. :) Email me...we'll work out something you'll be happy with. (Fwiw to those who don't know I've been here since God was an adolescent, the offer to contact me via email was NOT an attempt to solicit business. There is NO charge for my help, nor do I have anythin to sell...and my advice is free. However, both my publisher and I would appreciate it if you check out the link in my signature. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304 |
Sanitation Hose
Jeff wrote:
Peggie Hall wrote: This touches on a question I had for you. I've added the manual pump in series with the electric on my Lavac. I wouldn't recommend that. I wouldn't recommend the electric Lavac either. The performance has been getting weaker over the years, and the manual pump is need as a frequent backup. In tracing all of the hoses I now understand why its always been sluggish. The water intake line is about 12 feet long, the head output to the pump should be two feet, but they circled it around for at least ten, and the holding tank is about 12 or 15 feet from the pump. Thus the total run is maybe 35 feet, an awful lot for even the Lavac pump. Sheesh! O WONDER you have problems! I don't suppose it ever occurred to anyone so far to read the bloomin' installation instructions? Some of this will be dealt with in the Fall (if we last that long!) but I wonder about one item: The waste line from the pump goes up to 5 feet over the sole, then down under the sole, under the shower, though the engine compartment and then rises up to go into the holding tank which is built into the stern steps. This means there's a low section about 6 feet long, maybe 3 feet lower than the high point near the tank. Is this very bad, or just sub-optimal? Since I can't shorten this, should I keep it high, perhaps using some pvc as a conduit to run it through the shower? And how much do I have to clean the hose that might not ever come out of the bilge? Who dreamed up THAT nightmare????? The right solution: relocate the tank! If you don't think that's possible, you're wrong...email me. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304 |
Sanitation Hose
Don wrote: I am installing a new head and am going to use fresh water for flushing getting away from sal****er. I would like to know if the fresh water will dissolve the build-up inside the hose or do I need to replace the whole sanitation line. It's about a 20 to 25 foot run to the holding tank. Any help is appreciated. Thanks Don Thanks for the help, I thought I would have to change the hose, Defender has some for 3.99 a foot. I have a new Raritan "Atlantes Freedom" with a freshwater valve and siphon break so I am not worried about contamination to the freshwater supply. If I must, I guess I can add an extra pump to pump the crap up hill. As for the Acid, that would void the warranty and probably damage the unit. Peggy, I will write you off list. Again, Thanks Don |
Sanitation Hose
Don wrote:
I have a new Raritan "Atlantes Freedom" with a freshwater valve and siphon break so I am not worried about contamination to the freshwater supply. If I must, I guess I can add an extra pump to pump the crap up hill. You shouldn't need it. As for the Acid, that would void the warranty and probably damage the unit. No, it wouldn't. In fact, a 12% solution of muratic acid in water--which is flushed through the toilet (any toilet, including theirs)--is what Raritan specifies in their instructions to remove sea water mineral buildup on the electrode pack in a Lectra/San Peggy, I will write you off list. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304 |
Sanitation Hose
Peggie,
Do you recommend white vineger for flushing fresh water systems? MMC "Peggie Hall" wrote in message . com... Don wrote: I am installing a new head and am going to use fresh water for flushing getting away from sal****er. You aren't gonna connect a toilet designed to use sea water to your fresh water system, are you? That can't be done without risk of contaminating the potable water supply with e-coli, damage to the toilet, or both...and every toilet mfr specifically warns against it. ONLY toilets designed to use pressurized flush water can safely be connected to the fresh water system. I would like to know if the fresh water will disolve the build-up inside the hose... Nope... ... or do I need to replace the whole sanitation line. You don't have to do that either. A 12% solution of muriatic acid in water will dissolve it. Or, if you'd rather not use muriatic acid, repeated doses of white vinegar will do the trick. It's about a 20 to 25 foot run to the holding tank. Unless it's all downhill, that's at least 4 x further than all but a few high end electric toilets can move bowl contents...you'll always have waste sitting in the line, and that will result in stinky hoses. The optimal distance from the toilet to a tank is 6' or less...10' is the absolute max. So I think you may need a bit more help than you asked for. If you'd like to email me, I'll be glad to help you spec out a system that won't create more problems than it solves: phnlr (hyphen)misc(at) yahoo(dot)com. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304 |
Sanitation Hose
I can attest to this. Peggie has helped a lot of people with head issues thru the years. Very responsive and doesn't smack us when we ask dumb questions. (Fwiw to those who don't know I've been here since God was an adolescent, the offer to contact me via email was NOT an attempt to solicit business. There is NO charge for my help, nor do I have anythin to sell...and my advice is free. However, both my publisher and I would appreciate it if you check out the link in my signature. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304 |
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