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#1
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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RW Salnick wrote in news:e9o55a$2hq$1
@gnus01.u.washington.edu: Don't forget that a diesel engine, which has no throttle butterfly, is moving a lot of air out of the compartment all the time it is running That's true in a Hatteras with twin turbo 8V92TA's in it....but not in a sailboat with a two-cylinder Yanmar idling slow. Even wide open, it's still two little diesel pistons pumping slowly up and down, not much of a threat to pumping out the stinky head hose smell on other threads at all... (c; |
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#2
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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"Larry" wrote in message That's true in a Hatteras with twin turbo 8V92TA's in it....but not in a sailboat with a two-cylinder Yanmar idling slow. Even wide open, it's still two little diesel pistons pumping slowly up and down, not much of a threat to pumping out the stinky head hose smell on other threads at all... (c; Many diesel powered sailboats do have exhaust blowers, whether they need them or not. I have owned 4 inboard sailboats and three had blowers - not sure about the other, but it was a saildrive in it's own box. But, I have to admit I hardly ever turned the blower on. Usually the engine only ran for 15 or 20 min, to exit harbour, so no need. But on long windless trips, I sometime remembered to turn it on, if it was getting steamy down below. It may be a good idea to wire the blower into the starter switch circuit so it is always running when the engine runs or add a thermal switch set at 35C or so. This would perhaps help the refrig unit too, because it exhausts into the cockpit lockers which are open to the engine compartment. GBM |
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#3
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Larry wrote:
RW Salnick wrote in news:e9o55a$2hq$1 @gnus01.u.washington.edu: Don't forget that a diesel engine, which has no throttle butterfly, is moving a lot of air out of the compartment all the time it is running That's true in a Hatteras with twin turbo 8V92TA's in it....but not in a sailboat with a two-cylinder Yanmar idling slow. Even wide open, it's still two little diesel pistons pumping slowly up and down, not much of a threat to pumping out the stinky head hose smell on other threads at all... (c; Assuming we are talking about a 2GM, displacement of say 600 cc, idling at 1000 RPM, it is pumping 0.6/2*1000 = 300 liters/min of air out the exhaust pipe. This is approximately 10 CFM - not bad for idle and a small engine... bob |
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#4
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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"RW Salnick" wrote Assuming we are talking about a 2GM, displacement of say 600 cc, idling at 1000 RPM, it is pumping 0.6/2*1000 = 300 liters/min of air out the exhaust pipe. This is approximately 10 CFM - not bad for idle and a small engine... bob, If the 2GM is a 4-cycle engine, is the above correct if it only draws in air every other revolution? Shouldn't air flow to engine room be calculated to keep temperature down ? As the combustion air temperature goes up, engine efficiency goes down - I read somewhere that power loss could be 11% if temperature rises from 80F to 150F. Perhaps having the exhaust fan run all the time the engine runs would be a good idea? GBM |
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#5
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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GBM wrote:
"RW Salnick" wrote Assuming we are talking about a 2GM, displacement of say 600 cc, idling at 1000 RPM, it is pumping 0.6/2*1000 = 300 liters/min of air out the exhaust pipe. This is approximately 10 CFM - not bad for idle and a small engine... bob, If the 2GM is a 4-cycle engine, is the above correct if it only draws in air every other revolution? Shouldn't air flow to engine room be calculated to keep temperature down ? As the combustion air temperature goes up, engine efficiency goes down - I read somewhere that power loss could be 11% if temperature rises from 80F to 150F. Perhaps having the exhaust fan run all the time the engine runs would be a good idea? GBM Correct - that is why I divided by 2 in the equation. I doubt that the engine room temperature would reach 150 F under normal conditions (although the engine external surfaces certainly could). If it did get this hot, improved ventilation is certainly in order!! The amount of air we are discussing here is a little more than what would fill a 2' x 2' x 2' cube. On the small boat we are discussing here, I am guessing that the engine compartment is pretty small and crowded, and that the 10 CFM flow, at engine idle, would completely replace the air in the engine compartment every minute or two, or less. bob |
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#6
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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The amount of air we are discussing here is a little more than what would fill a 2' x 2' x 2' cube. On the small boat we are discussing here, I am guessing that the engine compartment is pretty small and crowded, and that the 10 CFM flow, at engine idle, would completely replace the air in the engine compartment every minute or two, or less. bob, I have the same size engine (older model) - The engine compartment is 3'highx2.5'wide and is open aft to the cockpit lockers etc, so enclosed space is quite large. Nevertheless, after a long run (without blower running), the engine "room" IS quite hot - I must measure it, but it must be 20-40F above the cabin temperature. Most of this is likely due to radiation from the block which is at 150-160F, the exhaust manifold and the alternator. Because the refrig unit is nearby, I plan on rewiring so my exhaust fan will run whenever the engine is running (so I don't have to remember to turn it on). I have already insulated the wall between the engine and the refrig unit. Hopefully these two things will keep the engine from adding further to the already high refrig heat load. GBM |
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