Does anyone have any ideas on how to straighten a bent stanchion in
place?

My suggestion, for safety reason, is to replace it.
If it is badly bent it is better to replace it and you should get the cost
for a new one. If it is the taper type you will have to get it from a
speciality store. If it is a straight SS tubing type you may check with
your local metal store. The cost for a 3 to 4 feet length 3/4 - 1" OD SS
tubing may well be under $5.00 - $10.00. Providing there is no kinks in the
stanchion you may have a 50-50 chance to succeed. if you have a strong and
properly anchored stanchion base you may try to straighten it with your own
physical strength.
It this fail you have to remove the stanchion, fill the inside with sand and
use a mechanical bending devices. While straightening the stanchion if a
hair line crack develops, for safety reason you will have to replace it.

"Gogarty" wrote in message
...
Does anyone have any ideas on how to straighten a bent stanchion in
place?

wrote:
My suggestion, for safety reason, is to replace it.
If it is badly bent it is better to replace it and you should get the cost
for a new one. If it is the taper type you will have to get it from a
speciality store. If it is a straight SS tubing type you may check with
your local metal store. The cost for a 3 to 4 feet length 3/4 - 1" OD SS
tubing may well be under $5.00 - $10.00. Providing there is no kinks in the
stanchion you may have a 50-50 chance to succeed. if you have a strong and
properly anchored stanchion base you may try to straighten it with your own
physical strength.
It this fail you have to remove the stanchion, fill the inside with sand and
use a mechanical bending devices. While straightening the stanchion if a
hair line crack develops, for safety reason you will have to replace it.

"Gogarty" wrote in message
...

Does anyone have any ideas on how to straighten a bent stanchion in
place?




I had one "professionally" straightened, and found the stainless rusting
-- suggest you replace -- see

http://www.topsinquality.com/stanchions.htm

The reason I have not simply replaced them is because I cannot remove them.
The stanchions are welded to the bases, which are through-bolted to backing
plates under the deck and behind the cabinetry and glassed in from the
inaccessible bottom. This boat (O'Day 37) is full uf such cuties, built as if
it were never meant to have things replaced, like wiring, which is sandwiched
between the gelcoat head liner and the bonded outer deck.

I have been toying around with ideas involving angle- or T-iron and big
screws, like jacks.

Are the stanchion made of Stainless Steel?

"Gogarty" wrote in message
...
The reason I have not simply replaced them is because I cannot remove
them.
The stanchions are welded to the bases, which are through-bolted to
backing
plates under the deck and behind the cabinetry and glassed in from the
inaccessible bottom. This boat (O'Day 37) is full uf such cuties, built as
if
it were never meant to have things replaced, like wiring, which is
sandwiched
between the gelcoat head liner and the bonded outer deck.

I have been toying around with ideas involving angle- or T-iron and big
screws, like jacks.

Gogarty writes:

I have been toying around with ideas involving angle- or T-iron and big
screws, like jacks.

If these are thinwall tubing that is bent, you will never straighten it
with anything less than precisely fitted dies. Anything else will surely
kink. If it is already kinked, then you're unlikely to straighten it.

If it is as "captured" piece, you might consider splicing new tubing in
with fittings, something like hose barbs.

I have successfully straightened bent (not kinked) stanchions with an
electrician's conduit bender. This is a hand tool with a pipe handle. I've
provided a link to one manufacturer's model so you know what I'm referring
to. The second link has a downloadable users manual. I realise this devise
is intended to bend straight tubing but will straighten bent tubing as well.
It has to be an almost perfect fit or it will flatten the tubing instead of
bending it.

http://www.idealindustries.com/wi/ConduitBenders.nsf

http://www.idealindustries.com/IDEAL...s?OpenDocument

--
Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
Cape Breton Island, Canada
kenheaton at eastlink dot ca

"Gogarty" wrote in message
...
The reason I have not simply replaced them is because I cannot remove
them.
The stanchions are welded to the bases, which are through-bolted to
backing
plates under the deck and behind the cabinetry and glassed in from the
inaccessible bottom. This boat (O'Day 37) is full uf such cuties, built as
if
it were never meant to have things replaced, like wiring, which is
sandwiched
between the gelcoat head liner and the bonded outer deck.

I have been toying around with ideas involving angle- or T-iron and big
screws, like jacks.