I have two freshwater tanks with one filler pipe. I want to put in a Y
valve so that I can fill either one separately.

I looked at several in the ship's store. They all had grease in the plastic
rotating seacock-like valve. I don't want grease in my drinking water.

I guess I could try and clean them up before I install them. Is there
another solution?

Thanks.



--


Bill

Bill wrote:

I looked at several in the ship's store. They all had grease in the plastic
rotating seacock-like valve. I don't want grease in my drinking water.

I guess I could try and clean them up before I install them. Is there
another solution?

Avoding hydrocarbon grease in drinking water is probably a good thing.
But what grease was it?

If the diverter valves were meant for potable water, the grease was
likely silicon grease. Silicon grease is reasonably inert (the silicion
is inert, the solvent is volatile to the point that a tube of silicon
grease only has a shelf life of 18 - 24 months; it's still useable
after that date but its consistency has changed).

Teflon is used as in some higher priced diverter valves meant for
drinking water. Look for valves with a teflon coating on the
rotor/stator.

Cheers

Avoding hydrocarbon grease in drinking water is probably a good thing.

Why? Non-toxic, doesn't support microbial growth. You probably have a jar
full of it in your medicine cabinet.

Richard J Kinch wrote:
Avoding hydrocarbon grease in drinking water is probably a good thing.

Why? Non-toxic, doesn't support microbial growth. You probably have a jar
full of it in your medicine cabinet.

Hmm ,,, white petroleum jelly or rod wax (known to many through the
brand name Vaseline) is not what I call a hydrocarbon grease. It's a
long chain hydrocarbon. Possibly best called a wax rather than a
grease.

But the term grease is poorly defined.

What I call hydrocarbon (or petroleum-based) greases (such as bearing
greases) are soaps of mineral oil. Microbes can grow on them
(depending on the metal part of the soap) in wet and humid conditions.

When eaten, petroleum-based greases are relatively non-toxic to healthy
adult humans. In small quantities, hydrocarbon greases (and mineral
oils) act as laxatives (and can lead to abdominal cramps etc).

The carcinogenicity of greases is, as far as I know, not yet proved. Or
disproved.

Repeated skin contact with hydrocarbon greases (and petroleum oils) can
lead to dermatitis.

I cannot imagine anyone inhaling much grease, but inhaling a mist of
petroleum oils is known to cause lung inflammation and lipid pneumonia.

So I repeat: avoiding ingesting a hydrocarbon grease via your drinking
water is probably a good thing. I know of no evidence that it enhances
life or the pursuit of happiness. Your mileage may vary.

If your jurisdiction allows you, feel free to set yourself up as a test
case. We know that eating a cupful of apple seeds, at one go, supplies
an adult with enough cyanide to lead to death. No one has recorded the
effects of eating one or more cupsful of a bearing grease. You could be
the first.

Cheers

Hmm ,,, white petroleum jelly or rod wax (known to many through the
brand name Vaseline) is not what I call a hydrocarbon grease.

But that's the cheap grease on plumbing fittings.

What I call hydrocarbon (or petroleum-based) greases (such as bearing
greases) are soaps of mineral oil.

Right, but those are not for wet applications.

Repeated skin contact with hydrocarbon greases (and petroleum oils) can
lead to dermatitis.

Not in this case. On the contrary, petrolatum is a *remedy* for
dermatitis.

Bill,

You might consider white lithium grease. This comes in a "food grade"
version that is suitable for equipment used in food processing. I've
seen it sold in most hardware and automotive stores as well.

I believe it would be suitable to your application, but you might want
to insure that the particular plastic used in the Y value is compatible.
Also, you may want to make certain that the plastic value is actually
safe for drinking water.

Alternatively, you could simply replace the Y value with two separate
brass gate values and a tee. This would allow you to fill either or
both tanks simultaneously.

Hope this helps.

Robb

p.s. Many Y valves have a retainer clip inside that controls how you can
configure the opening; usually you can only connect the input to tank A
or tank B. One setting that is normally restricted is connecting tank A
directly to tank B and closing off the input. I would strongly urge you
to consider modifying you value to allow this, and leaving it in this
position when you are not actively filling the tanks.

Bill wrote:
I have two freshwater tanks with one filler pipe. I want to put in a Y
valve so that I can fill either one separately.

I looked at several in the ship's store. They all had grease in the plastic
rotating seacock-like valve. I don't want grease in my drinking water.

I guess I could try and clean them up before I install them. Is there
another solution?

Thanks.

Bill wrote:

I have two freshwater tanks with one filler pipe. I want to put in a Y
valve so that I can fill either one separately.

I looked at several in the ship's store. They all had grease in the plastic
rotating seacock-like valve. I don't want grease in my drinking water.

I guess I could try and clean them up before I install them. Is there
another solution?

Thanks.



Bill,
Do you have an Irwin 37' cc? Why not add a second deck fill to the water
tank?
krj

Guys,

Thanks for all the comments.

BTW, there isn't the room for a second filler pipe.

--


Bill
"Bill" wrote in message
news:iz1mg.93052$IZ2.17435@dukeread07...
I have two freshwater tanks with one filler pipe. I want to put in a Y
valve so that I can fill either one separately.

I looked at several in the ship's store. They all had grease in the
plastic rotating seacock-like valve. I don't want grease in my drinking
water.

I guess I could try and clean them up before I install them. Is there
another solution?

Thanks.



--


Bill