Just getting the boat ready for launch in the next week or so and I am
trying to fix up a couple things yet to do and have a couple questions:
1) My drain plug flange has been leaking, so I got some 3M 5200 silicone to
reseal it. When removing the flange to clean up the surfaces I found 2
screws were self tapping (as expected), but the 3rd is a bolt which appears
to also hold onto a wire (with a crimped-on loop connector). The long bolt
goes through the flange and transom and then suspect the connector to be
held on to the bolt with a nut. The boat is an 1986 model 268 Searay
Sundancer and there is next to no room to get into / around the flange at
the inside of the boat to have someone to hold the nut, so I am going to try
a bit of silicone to hold the nut temporarily onto the wire connector so I
can get it started on to the bolt. Does this sound like a reasonable
approach or does anyone have any suggestions?

Also I am not certain what the wire is actually even for, as it again is
difficult to trace down in behind and under the engine, but suspect it may
be for electrolysis or something. Is this a fair assumption or does anyone
know for sure?

2) I removed the electrolysis cathode (I think it is fair to call) from the
bottom of the transom housing (two bolts) to make it easier to paint the
housing, and noticed some sort of build up or contamination or something on
the surface. Can or should I try sanding or cleaning up the surface to
improve the electrolysis or is this natural and not really a problem? My
anode (on the outdrive) is eroding as expected and there appears to be a
little erossion on the two (screw-on) knobs at each side on the lower part
of the housing, so I suspect everything is functioning there ok. Should
the two knobs and cathode be replaced periodically? I boat in fresh water
on the St. Lawrence.

Mark
The Rail, Canopy, & LifeLine (accessory) Hook guy
www.ripnet.com/vtf/prod03.htm

All three of mine are bolts and I found that I could hold the nut with a
finger thru the drain plug opening.

"Mark" wrote in message
...
Just getting the boat ready for launch in the next week or so and I am
trying to fix up a couple things yet to do and have a couple questions:
1) My drain plug flange has been leaking, so I got some 3M 5200 silicone
to reseal it. When removing the flange to clean up the surfaces I found
2 screws were self tapping (as expected), but the 3rd is a bolt which
appears to also hold onto a wire (with a crimped-on loop connector). The
long bolt goes through the flange and transom and then suspect the
connector to be held on to the bolt with a nut. The boat is an 1986
model 268 Searay Sundancer and there is next to no room to get into /
around the flange at the inside of the boat to have someone to hold the
nut, so I am going to try a bit of silicone to hold the nut temporarily
onto the wire connector so I can get it started on to the bolt. Does
this sound like a reasonable approach or does anyone have any suggestions?

Also I am not certain what the wire is actually even for, as it again is
difficult to trace down in behind and under the engine, but suspect it may
be for electrolysis or something. Is this a fair assumption or does
anyone know for sure?

2) I removed the electrolysis cathode (I think it is fair to call) from
the bottom of the transom housing (two bolts) to make it easier to paint
the housing, and noticed some sort of build up or contamination or
something on the surface. Can or should I try sanding or cleaning up the
surface to improve the electrolysis or is this natural and not really a
problem? My anode (on the outdrive) is eroding as expected and there
appears to be a little erossion on the two (screw-on) knobs at each side
on the lower part of the housing, so I suspect everything is functioning
there ok. Should the two knobs and cathode be replaced periodically? I
boat in fresh water on the St. Lawrence.

Mark
The Rail, Canopy, & LifeLine (accessory) Hook guy
www.ripnet.com/vtf/prod03.htm

Yes I do think I will be able to hold the nut from turning through the
drainplug opening, so hopefully the silicone will be sufficient to get the
nut in position and started. And I have managed to trace the wire atleast
into a mass of other wires, but it is green so I do believe is is a ground
wire for electrolysis. Anyone know of any good articles on electolysis and
boats?

Mark

"James" wrote in message
t...
All three of mine are bolts and I found that I could hold the nut with a
finger thru the drain plug opening.

"Mark" wrote in message
...
Just getting the boat ready for launch in the next week or so and I am
trying to fix up a couple things yet to do and have a couple questions:
1) My drain plug flange has been leaking, so I got some 3M 5200 silicone
to reseal it. When removing the flange to clean up the surfaces I found
2 screws were self tapping (as expected), but the 3rd is a bolt which
appears to also hold onto a wire (with a crimped-on loop connector).
The long bolt goes through the flange and transom and then suspect the
connector to be held on to the bolt with a nut. The boat is an 1986
model 268 Searay Sundancer and there is next to no room to get into /
around the flange at the inside of the boat to have someone to hold the
nut, so I am going to try a bit of silicone to hold the nut temporarily
onto the wire connector so I can get it started on to the bolt. Does
this sound like a reasonable approach or does anyone have any
suggestions?

Also I am not certain what the wire is actually even for, as it again is
difficult to trace down in behind and under the engine, but suspect it
may be for electrolysis or something. Is this a fair assumption or does
anyone know for sure?

2) I removed the electrolysis cathode (I think it is fair to call) from
the bottom of the transom housing (two bolts) to make it easier to paint
the housing, and noticed some sort of build up or contamination or
something on the surface. Can or should I try sanding or cleaning up
the surface to improve the electrolysis or is this natural and not really
a problem? My anode (on the outdrive) is eroding as expected and there
appears to be a little erossion on the two (screw-on) knobs at each side
on the lower part of the housing, so I suspect everything is functioning
there ok. Should the two knobs and cathode be replaced periodically?
I boat in fresh water on the St. Lawrence.

Mark
The Rail, Canopy, & LifeLine (accessory) Hook guy
www.ripnet.com/vtf/prod03.htm

Mark,

That little wire is there to make electrical
connection between the seperate metal parts for
corrosion protection. Make sure that it gets put
back in place with bare metal to bare metal.

Also, you mentioned painting the aluminum housing,
and that is okay as long as you make sure that
there is bare metal to bare metal connection
between the sacrificial anode (that you removed),
and the housing. (IE, do NOT paint the anode,
because the bolts that contact it are the
electrical connection).

It is okay to sand the aluminum housing to remove
any corrosion, but you should then use a good
aluminum primer such as zinc chromate, etc.
before painting the finish color coat. Make sure
that you do not paint the bolt holes that connect
the anode.

Good luck with it,

Don W.

Mark wrote:

Just getting the boat ready for launch in the next week or so and I am
trying to fix up a couple things yet to do and have a couple questions:
1) My drain plug flange has been leaking, so I got some 3M 5200 silicone to
reseal it. When removing the flange to clean up the surfaces I found 2
screws were self tapping (as expected), but the 3rd is a bolt which appears
to also hold onto a wire (with a crimped-on loop connector). The long bolt
goes through the flange and transom and then suspect the connector to be
held on to the bolt with a nut. The boat is an 1986 model 268 Searay
Sundancer and there is next to no room to get into / around the flange at
the inside of the boat to have someone to hold the nut, so I am going to try
a bit of silicone to hold the nut temporarily onto the wire connector so I
can get it started on to the bolt. Does this sound like a reasonable
approach or does anyone have any suggestions?

Also I am not certain what the wire is actually even for, as it again is
difficult to trace down in behind and under the engine, but suspect it may
be for electrolysis or something. Is this a fair assumption or does anyone
know for sure?

2) I removed the electrolysis cathode (I think it is fair to call) from the
bottom of the transom housing (two bolts) to make it easier to paint the
housing, and noticed some sort of build up or contamination or something on
the surface. Can or should I try sanding or cleaning up the surface to
improve the electrolysis or is this natural and not really a problem? My
anode (on the outdrive) is eroding as expected and there appears to be a
little erossion on the two (screw-on) knobs at each side on the lower part
of the housing, so I suspect everything is functioning there ok. Should
the two knobs and cathode be replaced periodically? I boat in fresh water
on the St. Lawrence.

Mark
The Rail, Canopy, & LifeLine (accessory) Hook guy
www.ripnet.com/vtf/prod03.htm

I would think that the wire is ground maybe going to the
fuel tank and or even the engine block
"Mark" wrote in message
...
Just getting the boat ready for launch in the next week or
so and I am
trying to fix up a couple things yet to do and have a couple
questions:
1) My drain plug flange has been leaking, so I got some 3M
5200 silicone to
reseal it. When removing the flange to clean up the
surfaces I found 2
screws were self tapping (as expected), but the 3rd is a
bolt which appears
to also hold onto a wire (with a crimped-on loop connector).
The long bolt
goes through the flange and transom and then suspect the
connector to be
held on to the bolt with a nut. The boat is an 1986 model
268 Searay
Sundancer and there is next to no room to get into / around
the flange at
the inside of the boat to have someone to hold the nut, so I
am going to try
a bit of silicone to hold the nut temporarily onto the wire
connector so I
can get it started on to the bolt. Does this sound like a
reasonable
approach or does anyone have any suggestions?

Also I am not certain what the wire is actually even for, as
it again is
difficult to trace down in behind and under the engine, but
suspect it may
be for electrolysis or something. Is this a fair
assumption or does anyone
know for sure?

2) I removed the electrolysis cathode (I think it is fair to
call) from the
bottom of the transom housing (two bolts) to make it easier
to paint the
housing, and noticed some sort of build up or contamination
or something on
the surface. Can or should I try sanding or cleaning up
the surface to
improve the electrolysis or is this natural and not really a
problem? My
anode (on the outdrive) is eroding as expected and there
appears to be a
little erossion on the two (screw-on) knobs at each side on
the lower part
of the housing, so I suspect everything is functioning there
ok. Should
the two knobs and cathode be replaced periodically? I boat
in fresh water
on the St. Lawrence.

Mark
The Rail, Canopy, & LifeLine (accessory) Hook guy
www.ripnet.com/vtf/prod03.htm




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The silicone to hold the nut temporaily onto the wire connector worked well!
Hopefully I will be ready and able to lauch next week. I also did not
realize the 3M 5200 silicone (for my drain plug flange) had such a long cure
time (48 hours for tack free and 7 days for a full cure). Good thing I got
it done yesterday and was scheduling to launch next week!

I also wire brushed the large anode (or cathode as mentioned before) and
have reinstalled it. It will be interesting to see how it lasts!

Mark

"Mark" wrote in message
...
Yes I do think I will be able to hold the nut from turning through the
drainplug opening, so hopefully the silicone will be sufficient to get the
nut in position and started. And I have managed to trace the wire
atleast into a mass of other wires, but it is green so I do believe is is
a ground wire for electrolysis. Anyone know of any good articles on
electolysis and boats?

Mark

"James" wrote in message
t...
All three of mine are bolts and I found that I could hold the nut with a
finger thru the drain plug opening.

"Mark" wrote in message
...
Just getting the boat ready for launch in the next week or so and I am
trying to fix up a couple things yet to do and have a couple questions:
1) My drain plug flange has been leaking, so I got some 3M 5200 silicone
to reseal it. When removing the flange to clean up the surfaces I
found 2 screws were self tapping (as expected), but the 3rd is a bolt
which appears to also hold onto a wire (with a crimped-on loop
connector). The long bolt goes through the flange and transom and then
suspect the connector to be held on to the bolt with a nut. The boat
is an 1986 model 268 Searay Sundancer and there is next to no room to
get into / around the flange at the inside of the boat to have someone
to hold the nut, so I am going to try a bit of silicone to hold the nut
temporarily onto the wire connector so I can get it started on to the
bolt. Does this sound like a reasonable approach or does anyone have
any suggestions?

Also I am not certain what the wire is actually even for, as it again is
difficult to trace down in behind and under the engine, but suspect it
may be for electrolysis or something. Is this a fair assumption or
does anyone know for sure?

2) I removed the electrolysis cathode (I think it is fair to call) from
the bottom of the transom housing (two bolts) to make it easier to paint
the housing, and noticed some sort of build up or contamination or
something on the surface. Can or should I try sanding or cleaning up
the surface to improve the electrolysis or is this natural and not
really a problem? My anode (on the outdrive) is eroding as expected
and there appears to be a little erossion on the two (screw-on) knobs at
each side on the lower part of the housing, so I suspect everything is
functioning there ok. Should the two knobs and cathode be replaced
periodically? I boat in fresh water on the St. Lawrence.

Mark
The Rail, Canopy, & LifeLine (accessory) Hook guy
www.ripnet.com/vtf/prod03.htm