On Sun, 25 Dec 2005 16:26:23 GMT, Gary wrote:

Brian Whatcott wrote:



What a load of crap. 2" seatbelt webbing, 2 D" rings welded by some guy
who has no idea what they will be used for, a foot of 1" webbing
fashioned into some homemade sit harness by some Chouinard wanna may be
stronger (not!) but I'd go with the UIAA tested, warranteed, insured
stuff made by some reputable company who has made tens of thousands and
continues to enjoy good success rather than the trailer park version.

Gaz
Still climbing and sailing - same gear.



That is of course, your option. And if you don't have the requisite
background, it is usually an EXCELLENT idea to go with the more
expensive choice.

Fortunately, I am not limited by the concept that bucks = safe in
quite the same way. That doesn't mean you're talking crap and
projecting. It doesn't mean you're dumb with judgment to match,

I have got several pro harnesses, an industrial harness (far FAR
stronger than anything you've got) and several swiss harnesses
(home-made by a guy who knows what he is doing)
and I can evaluate relative strengths.

What have you got, besides gut-feeling?

Brian Whatcott


[Gary/Gaz/Plumper]
UIAA approval. Trumps "gut feeling" and your evaluation (which is
really your gut feeling right?).

[Brian]
Ho hum. At least this response avoids another personal attack.
Not even a whisper of back streets, gutter-snipes, trailer-trash,
etc., etc.

So in return let me explain. I will be brief, mostly because I don't
much care whether you understand or not.
The UIAA is L'Union International des Associations d'Alpinisme.
They do a worthy job in underwriting technical safety of climbing
gear.
Technical gear found its start in the back streets of enthusiasts, in
a manner of speaking. A nut was called a nut because a guy at
Rolls-Royce (I think it was) threaded a stainless loop through a
machine nut. The people who dreamed up technical stuff were either
engineers, or took careful advice of engineers. But there was a
conflict (not uncommon in aero engineering in fact) between lightness
and strength. So testing and traceability were imported from Aero
engineering practice. This is expensive. Because the trade is
low-volume.

The lower cost route to engineering reliability (and engineers are
always interested in the most bang for the buck) is generous NOT
minimum safety margins. That means the devices are heavier,
and nearly always stronger.

So if you want the very strongest device like a climbing harness you
DON'T choose a UIAA type device - you specify an industrially rated
device that is specified for abusive use under legal constraints.
But it's not everybody that wants such an awkward harness with huge
buckles etc...... so there is a middle way. An engineer is the job
description of someone capable of doing this sort of material
specification.

Get it?

If not, you'll need to look for someone else to continue this
discussion, because you've taken all the pro bono time I'm willing to
offer you.

Hasta la Vista

Brian Whatcott Altus OK