"Peggie Hall" wrote in message
news
Skip Gundlach wrote:
The owner's manual shows vented loops, but I'd missed them in my
prior perusal online of them, as it's so counter-intuitive given the
short, direct, installation of the line between the pump and the
bowl.

It's only counter-intuitive if you don't read the directions.

Heh. Having found them installed already, I missed that part :{))


However, the OM also shows the "TWK" which is for odor control and
lubrication, using "Raritan Concentrate #CON22". Your prior comments
indicated you thought odor control - through these presumed
expensive options, which our boat had - unnecessary - but this refers
also to lubrication.

You don't need the TWK (toilet water kit)...It doesn't lubricate any
better than plain water does. Raritan Concentrate is a nasty chemical
(quaternary ammonium compound) left over from the days when all toilets
flushed directly overboard. Its only real purpose was to "sanitize" the
waste slightly to reduce odor as it went out. Raritan has strongly
considered discontinuing it, but still sell enough of it that they keep
talking themselves out of doing so.

So, how does one (preventive maintenance) lube a PHII without
disassembly?

One doesn't. But it's not THAT much of a PITA to lift the pump off
the base and shoot some teflon grease into it just once or twice a year.

Secondly, referring to another part of this thread, I see in our
heads that a proper shutoff...

I'm not sure what you mean by "proper shutoff"...seacock?

Yes - seacock.
http://justpickone.org/skip/gallery/...ber& start=65
has a couple of pictures of the forward head's unit; the aft head's is in
the base next to the pump, but identical, triangular-based, barbed-end unit.

... is immediately adjacent to the intake to
the pump body (see my December gallery for illustration, as I redid
the intake to that point). If placarded for guests, and known for us,
to have that shut when not in operation, does that suffice and is it
recommended procedure vs the antisiphon loop?

No. Neither a seacock nor any other shutoff valve in a line is a
substitute for a vented loop...they serve two completely different
functions in addition to protecting people from themselves. All the good
intentions and placards in the world cannot guarantee that no one will
ever neglect to close a seacock or never leave the toilet in the "wet"
mode.

Well, I agree about the "wet" bit - but, since our now-long-ago discussion
of dry pumping, that's going to be the requirement, regardless of above or
below the waterline, as I'd like nothing better than to have empty pipes
(other than the exhaust part below the waterline, of course).

Thanks for the input. Got any recommendations for teflon grease supply?

L8R

Skip


--
Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
http://tinyurl.com/384p2 The vessel as Tehamana, as we bought her

The Society for the Preservation of Tithesis commends your ebriated
and scrutible use of delible and defatigable, which are gainly, sipid
and couth. We are gruntled and consolate that you have the ertia and
eptitude to choose such putably pensible tithesis, which we parage.

Stamp out Sesquipedalianism

Skip Gundlach wrote:
Thanks for the input. Got any recommendations for teflon grease supply?

SuperLube is the best IMO...they make a whole range of greases, so you
only want the thick teflon grease in a tube, not the the spray or
liquid. It's also good for y-valves, diaphragm pumps and any other pump
that stays wet. A $3.95 tube of it should last you several years.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304

On Thu, 05 Jan 2006 03:35:02 GMT, Peggie Hall
wrote:


SuperLube is the best IMO...they make a whole range of greases, so you
only want the thick teflon grease in a tube, not the the spray or
liquid. It's also good for y-valves, diaphragm pumps and any other pump
that stays wet. A $3.95 tube of it should last you several years.

I use a tube of Quicksilver Teflon lubricant because it serves both
plumbing and engine purposes onboard and (so far) has lasted years at
around the same $5 price point. Last time I used it was to seat an
O-ring for a basket-style debris filter between the raw water pump and
the block on my Atomic 4. It's widely available.

R.

rhys wrote:
I use a tube of Quicksilver Teflon lubricant because it serves both
plumbing and engine purposes onboard and (so far) has lasted years at
around the same $5 price point. Last time I used it was to seat an
O-ring for a basket-style debris filter between the raw water pump and
the block on my Atomic 4. It's widely available.

Quicksilver is a petroleum based lubricant...not recommended for use in
toilets 'cuz petroleum degrades rubber. You really should look for a
synthetic based teflon grease--which SuperLube is--next time you have to
buy a tube of it. If you can't find it anywhere else, try swimming pool
supply stores...it's the recommended lubricant for pool pumps, filters
etc too.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304

"Peggie Hall" wrote in message
. com...

Quicksilver is a petroleum based lubricant...not recommended for use in
toilets 'cuz petroleum degrades rubber. You really should look for a
synthetic based teflon grease--which SuperLube is--next time you have to
buy a tube of it. If you can't find it anywhere else, try swimming pool
supply stores...it's the recommended lubricant for pool pumps, filters etc
too.


This discussion reminded me that in another mailing list I'm on, the topic
of keeping the pipes clean came up. I gave them your vinegar prescription,
but a couple of posters have advocated Muriatic acid, sometimes with a
dollop of veggie oil for the lube.

My thought was that was pretty harsh stuff, but, certainly, it ought to do a
number on calcium. What are your thoughts on the subject (Muriatic, i.e.,
vs vinegar as effective/more effective/harmful to components)?

Thanks. And thanks for the lube pointer...

L8R

Skip

--
Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
http://tinyurl.com/384p2 The vessel as Tehamana, as we bought her

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail
away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore.
Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain

Skip Gundlach wrote:
This discussion reminded me that in another mailing list I'm on, the topic
of keeping the pipes clean came up. I gave them your vinegar prescription,
but a couple of posters have advocated Muriatic acid, sometimes with a
dollop of veggie oil for the lube.

My thought was that was pretty harsh stuff, but, certainly, it ought to do a
number on calcium. What are your thoughts on the subject (Muriatic, i.e.,
vs vinegar as effective/more effective/harmful to components)?

A 12% solution of muriatic acid in water has long been the recommended
"cure" for mineral buildup in hoses--sanitation, exhaust, engine
intake--and also to clean the electrodes in a Lectra/San. It is nasty
stuff and needs careful handling, but it won't hurt anything in the system.

White vinegar--which is more acidic than cider--also works, but easier
to use a preventative than a cure. Repeated applications will eventually
dissolve a heavy buildup--and vinegar is a lot safer to handle, whereas
a single "dose" of muriatic acid will do it. So prevention is the best
approach--a cupful flushed through the hoses once a week. Do that and
you'll never need to choose between muriatic and vinegar.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304

On Thu, 05 Jan 2006 15:51:35 GMT, Peggie Hall
wrote:

Quicksilver is a petroleum based lubricant...not recommended for use in
toilets 'cuz petroleum degrades rubber. You really should look for a
synthetic based teflon grease--which SuperLube is--next time you have to
buy a tube of it. If you can't find it anywhere else, try swimming pool
supply stores...it's the recommended lubricant for pool pumps, filters
etc too.

OK, good point, Peggy. I use it in the raw water pump as the vane is
neoprene/nitrile, not rubber, and I tend just to use it for seating
O-rings, not general lubing. For that, I run some vegetable oil in the
pump.

But I will take your advice nonetheless.

R.