http://kindred-spirit.net/morgan43/arch/archradar.html

This shows the design of a radar arch for a Mogan sailboat with a
prototype build from PVC. It has a nice innovation of seats added to
the pushpit. Well done....Lots of good size images

Can anyone figure a price on what the fabrication of this arch would
have cost in materials and labour (welding stainless) - excluding the
building of the prototype?

http://kindred-spirit.net/morgan43/hardtop.html

The author of the website built this themself. It looks nice but it
sure took a long way to get there as they used a mold. Not the way I
would have necessary approached it, but it seems to have worked.

http://kindred-spirit.net/morgan43/morganupgrade.html

Other upgrades.

Enjoy Mic

Mic wrote:
http://kindred-spirit.net/morgan43/arch/archradar.html

This shows the design of a radar arch for a Mogan sailboat with a
prototype build from PVC. It has a nice innovation of seats added to
the pushpit. Well done....Lots of good size images

Can anyone figure a price on what the fabrication of this arch would
have cost in materials and labour (welding stainless) - excluding the
building of the prototype?

http://kindred-spirit.net/morgan43/hardtop.html

The author of the website built this themself. It looks nice but it
sure took a long way to get there as they used a mold. Not the way I
would have necessary approached it, but it seems to have worked.

http://kindred-spirit.net/morgan43/morganupgrade.html

Other upgrades.

Enjoy Mic
A stainless steel arch built by wells marine out of 1 1/2" tubing with
dingy davits, solar panel mounts, stern light mount, flag pole mount,
stern pulpit would be about $5000.
krj

Oops. Perhaps. More like 6k, based on my recent build. There's a
bunch of gotchas in his price list; by the time you add it all up (with
him, not apparent unless you've had the detailed discussion with him),
it all adds up.

He uses 1.5" 304 without passivation of welds (polishing only) - a
prior responder to my search here earlier indicated that he was
constantaly having to polish it (the entirety) due to corrosion.

That said, I seriously considered a Wells arch, but in the end went
with a custom builder because, at any price, Wells couldn't do what I
wanted due to their cookie-cutter approach (saves costs, of course -
doesn't impact quality) - and in the end, his price was the same as my
2" custom fabrication. See my gallery
(http://www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery/) under M46Projects for a very
detailed look at how I did it - without having to build a prototype.

L8R

Skip, starting toward active rehab and heading into another (minor
surgery), see ya at SSCA Melbourne where I'll take the HAM exams.

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig
http://tinyurl.com/384p2 The vessel as Tehamana, as we bought her

"And then again, when you sit at the helm of your little ship on a
clear
night, and gaze at the countless stars overhead, and realize that you
are
quite alone on a great, wide sea, it is apt to occur to you that in the
general scheme of things you are merely an insignificant speck on the
surface of the ocean; and are not nearly so important or as
self-sufficient
as you thought you were. Which is an exceedingly wholesome thought,
and one
that may effect a permanent change in your deportment that will be
greatly
appreciated by your friends."- James S. Pitkin
----- Original Message -----

Skip,

There is a way to passivate the welds after the arch is installed. I am
using a product called Citrisurf. Wrap a short length of stainless tube
with a rag, connect the + side of a 12V battery to the tube and ground the
arch. Dip the rag in the Citrisurf solution and rub it around the welds for
a few minutes.It is not as good as a real hot dipped passivation but it does
restore color and slow the rust stains. It leaves the surface a little hazy
where it has eaten away the free iron molecules but it can be shined up
again by hand with normal stainless polish.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Skip Gundlach" wrote in message
oups.com...
Oops. Perhaps. More like 6k, based on my recent build. There's a
bunch of gotchas in his price list; by the time you add it all up (with
him, not apparent unless you've had the detailed discussion with him),
it all adds up.

He uses 1.5" 304 without passivation of welds (polishing only) - a
prior responder to my search here earlier indicated that he was
constantaly having to polish it (the entirety) due to corrosion.

That said, I seriously considered a Wells arch, but in the end went
with a custom builder because, at any price, Wells couldn't do what I
wanted due to their cookie-cutter approach (saves costs, of course -
doesn't impact quality) - and in the end, his price was the same as my
2" custom fabrication. See my gallery
(http://www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery/) under M46Projects for a very
detailed look at how I did it - without having to build a prototype.

L8R

Skip, starting toward active rehab and heading into another (minor
surgery), see ya at SSCA Melbourne where I'll take the HAM exams.

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig
http://tinyurl.com/384p2 The vessel as Tehamana, as we bought her

"And then again, when you sit at the helm of your little ship on a
clear
night, and gaze at the countless stars overhead, and realize that you
are
quite alone on a great, wide sea, it is apt to occur to you that in the
general scheme of things you are merely an insignificant speck on the
surface of the ocean; and are not nearly so important or as
self-sufficient
as you thought you were. Which is an exceedingly wholesome thought,
and one
that may effect a permanent change in your deportment that will be
greatly
appreciated by your friends."- James S. Pitkin
----- Original Message -----

Glenn Ashmore wrote:
Skip,

There is a way to passivate the welds after the arch is installed. I am
using a product called Citrisurf. Wrap a short length of stainless tube
with a rag, connect the + side of a 12V battery to the tube and ground the
arch. Dip the rag in the Citrisurf solution and rub it around the welds for
a few minutes.It is not as good as a real hot dipped passivation but it does
restore color and slow the rust stains. It leaves the surface a little hazy
where it has eaten away the free iron molecules but it can be shined up
again by hand with normal stainless polish.

--
Glenn Ashmore

Hi, Glenn, and thanks for the thought. How was the BVI?

Meanwhile, my SS local welder uses Lime Juice, rag wrapped, a day or so
with refreshment, to do the same thing. Would an electrical current on
the rag imporove that?

And, my objection to Wells was his inability to do what we needed, at a
comparable price to a substantially more robust rig, passivated at each
weld. His use of 304 was an incidental, as I was still headed his way
until he couldn't build "my" arch. 304, of course, is stronger, so
perhaps my upsizing resulted in similar strength at the end.

How did you do *your* passivation?

L8R

Skip, now in rehab from nasal/sinus surgery, and hoping for release to
active therapy on the shoulder next week.


Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig
http://tinyurl.com/384p2 The vessel as Tehamana, as we bought her

"There is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as
simply
messing - messing-about-in-boats.

In or out of 'em, it doesn't matter. Nothing seems really to matter,
that's the charm of it.

Whether you get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at your
destination or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you never
get anywhere at all, you're always busy, and you never do anything in
particular; and when you've done it there's always something else to
do, and you can do it if you like, but you'd much better not."

On 29 Oct 2005 06:57:30 -0700, wrote:

Glenn Ashmore wrote:
Skip,

There is a way to passivate the welds after the arch is installed. I am
using a product called Citrisurf. Wrap a short length of stainless tube
with a rag, connect the + side of a 12V battery to the tube and ground the
arch. Dip the rag in the Citrisurf solution and rub it around the welds for
a few minutes.It is not as good as a real hot dipped passivation but it does
restore color and slow the rust stains. It leaves the surface a little hazy
where it has eaten away the free iron molecules but it can be shined up
again by hand with normal stainless polish.

--
Glenn Ashmore

Hi, Glenn, and thanks for the thought. How was the BVI?

Meanwhile, my SS local welder uses Lime Juice, rag wrapped, a day or so
with refreshment, to do the same thing. Would an electrical current on
the rag imporove that?

And, my objection to Wells was his inability to do what we needed, at a
comparable price to a substantially more robust rig, passivated at each
weld. His use of 304 was an incidental, as I was still headed his way
until he couldn't build "my" arch. 304, of course, is stronger, so
perhaps my upsizing resulted in similar strength at the end.

How did you do *your* passivation?

L8R

Skip, now in rehab from nasal/sinus surgery, and hoping for release to
active therapy on the shoulder next week.


Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig
http://tinyurl.com/384p2 The vessel as Tehamana, as we bought her

"There is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as
simply
messing - messing-about-in-boats.

In or out of 'em, it doesn't matter. Nothing seems really to matter,
that's the charm of it.

Whether you get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at your
destination or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you never
get anywhere at all, you're always busy, and you never do anything in
particular; and when you've done it there's always something else to
do, and you can do it if you like, but you'd much better not."


You will recall how similar this is to a popular, safe and effective
method of rust removal in regular steel fittings.
Connect the positive side of a battery charger to a lead or stanless
anode plate. Connect the object to the negative cathode lead,
Immerse both electrodes in a solution of baking soda or TSP
(tri sodium phosphate.)
This is cathodic reduction - the opposite of anodic coating of
aluminum - where a hard oxide layer is added.
The baking soda is much safer than acid solutions, in that it spares
the bare metal.

Brian Whatcott