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#1
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I tried to replace the damage raw water pump impeller on my Yanmar
2QM20 today and found it frozen on the shaft. It’s the slide on keyway type without a set screw and the bronze impeller hub seems to have frozen to the stainless steel shaft. I cut the rubber away so I could get vice grips on it but it is really stuck on there. It was only put in new last spring. I’m going to let the boatyard replace it but this is something I really would not want to be dealing with anchored on some lee shore with a damaged rig. I’m going to buy a gear puller if I can find one that fits but cutting the rubber away would be no picnic in rough conditions either. Is there anything that can be put on the shaft that will prevent this? Or, should I remove the impeller and grease the whole thing every month or so? -- Roger Long |
#2
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hit it with a torch, heat it like you wouild a pressed bearing, anti
seize compound with zinc dust in it will work just fine. any further explanation required by you means your to dam stupid to do it anyway. just pull out your wallet and pay the bill. |
#3
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I agree with the techniques that Mr. Meye5 submitted, but not the
sentiment. After working on cars for 15 years I never had much use for anti-seize or a heat gun. Boating for the last 10 years has taught me to approach almost every job with both. The heat gun is great for getting things free, fitting hoses and varnish removal as well as heat shrink. The anti-seize is great stuff, after 5 years all the screws remained in place in the mast until I wanted them to come out, and they all did without much work. Keep asking questions, and you are right to do it yourself! John S/V Pangea |
#4
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In article ,
"Roger Long" wrote: I tried to replace the damage raw water pump impeller on my Yanmar 2QM20 today and found it frozen on the shaft. It’s the slide on keyway type without a set screw and the bronze impeller hub seems to have frozen to the stainless steel shaft. I cut the rubber away so I could get vice grips on it but it is really stuck on there. It was only put in new last spring. I’m going to let the boatyard replace it but this is something I really would not want to be dealing with anchored on some lee shore with a damaged rig. I’m going to buy a gear puller if I can find one that fits but cutting the rubber away would be no picnic in rough conditions either. Is there anything that can be put on the shaft that will prevent this? Or, should I remove the impeller and grease the whole thing every month or so? Something else is happening here as I've not had any problem with getting our 2GM20's impeller off each of the last a dozen falls. I grease the walls when I put it in in the Spring, so might get a little on the shaft, but nothing intentional. -- Jere Lull Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD) Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ |
#5
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On Fri, 14 Oct 2005 06:37:08 GMT, Jere Lull wrote:
Something else is happening here as I've not had any problem with getting our 2GM20's impeller off each of the last a dozen falls. I grease the walls when I put it in in the Spring, so might get a little on the shaft, but nothing intentional. I do two things when I pull the impeller in the fall: I grease the blades and the shaft with white/lithium grease and check the back plate and shaft for scoring; and I fill up the little "grease cup" on my old-school Oberdorfer water pump. Every ten hours or so, I give it a tightening to get the blob of grease in contact with the shaft. It's all part of my winterization routine. R. |
#6
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Do not use a torch on pump as the heat will destroy both rubber shaft
seals. |
#7
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I use silicone plumber's grease on the shaft every time I replace the
impeller. I also spray the impeller with silicone spray before installing to ease installation and keep it lubed until the water gets in there. |
#8
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"use silicone plumber's grease on the shaft every time I replace the
impeller. I also spray the impeller with silicone spray before installing to ease installation and keep it lubed until the water gets in there. " Sounds like you brush your teeth with the stuff too. silicoln has no use here. anti seize compound. the problem is SEIZING, |
#9
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Rodger,
Anti-seize compound, as others have stated is the solution. A hot air gun is dangerous to the shaft seal, but then, so is a misused torch. The key to removing the impeller is to heat the impeller, but not the shaft. This will be easier to do with a small tipped acetylene welding torch used VERY carefully. Do not heat until you are prepared to pull immediately, otherwise the shaft will heat through heat soak. Steve "Roger Long" wrote in message ... I tried to replace the damage raw water pump impeller on my Yanmar 2QM20 today and found it frozen on the shaft. It's the slide on keyway type without a set screw and the bronze impeller hub seems to have frozen to the stainless steel shaft. I cut the rubber away so I could get vice grips on it but it is really stuck on there. It was only put in new last spring. I'm going to let the boatyard replace it but this is something I really would not want to be dealing with anchored on some lee shore with a damaged rig. I'm going to buy a gear puller if I can find one that fits but cutting the rubber away would be no picnic in rough conditions either. Is there anything that can be put on the shaft that will prevent this? Or, should I remove the impeller and grease the whole thing every month or so? -- Roger Long |
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