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#1
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I agree and don't drain my engine unless I plan to lay it up with
anti-freeze. As I mentioned in my reply to Richard, I have provisions for pumping anti-freeze into the cooling jacket, if I were in a colder climate or didn't keep a heater going in the winter. Steve s/v Good Intentions "Rich Hampel" wrote in message ... Sorry but 'drying' a cast iron engine will greatly shorten the service life. What happens is that the cast iron begins to form 'slab rust' .... huge plateletts of ferric rust that propagates between the natural 'laps' of the casting. Cast iron, due to the way it cools when molded is similar to an 'onion' ... and the ferric corrosion (usual severe rust) will rapidly develop between the 'laps' and form ferric rust , develop extreme pressure between the natural 'laps' and begin to destroy the casting. If you keep the engine 'wet' (using such things as antifreeze with rust inhibiters0 this process is greatly retarded. Cast iron is a good metal vs. sea water as the high operating temperature produces 'ferrous' rust ... a blue/black oxide that actually protects against ferric rust. The moral of this story is dont 'air-dry' your engine by draining all the water out ..... put in a mixture of water and antifreeze - and this will keep the protective 'ferrous' layer intact. Otherwise, expect to develop pin holes and leaks in short order. hope this helps. |
#2
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I used to have a raw water cooled engine, and used to winterize by
pumping antifreeze through it, and closing the cocks. Let the engine run to temperature so you circulate the antifreeze. Inboards tend to stay a little warmer since they are closer to the water, which tends to retain temperature, and protected in some way from the elements. I would doubt that the first night or two in high 20s will cause it to crack, but why strain it? I'd plumb a second connection to the raw-water intake so you can easily and quickly pump some antifreeze through it, easily enough to do it every time you get back from a trip. You may also consider a "block heater" type device--I used one in my car, which did not have an integral one, in -40 degrees. That one was magnetic, designed for lawn-mower sized equipment, but it worked well enough: plugged it in, and it attached magnetically to the engine. I don't know how well it would work against freezing, and I doubt that you can find one that is appropriate for marine use, so take that for what you paid for it. mickey |
#3
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Simple answer to that is to add valved tee connectionIn to the intake
line and drain cocks teed to a common. Just drain the raw to the bilge, saving if antifreeze into a bucket. simply, suck the antifreeze back in when shutting down. article , Steve wrote: I agree and don't drain my engine unless I plan to lay it up with anti-freeze. As I mentioned in my reply to Richard, I have provisions for pumping anti-freeze into the cooling jacket, if I were in a colder climate or didn't keep a heater going in the winter. Steve s/v Good Intentions "Rich Hampel" wrote in message ... Sorry but 'drying' a cast iron engine will greatly shorten the service life. What happens is that the cast iron begins to form 'slab rust' .... huge plateletts of ferric rust that propagates between the natural 'laps' of the casting. Cast iron, due to the way it cools when molded is similar to an 'onion' ... and the ferric corrosion (usual severe rust) will rapidly develop between the 'laps' and form ferric rust , develop extreme pressure between the natural 'laps' and begin to destroy the casting. If you keep the engine 'wet' (using such things as antifreeze with rust inhibiters0 this process is greatly retarded. Cast iron is a good metal vs. sea water as the high operating temperature produces 'ferrous' rust ... a blue/black oxide that actually protects against ferric rust. The moral of this story is dont 'air-dry' your engine by draining all the water out ..... put in a mixture of water and antifreeze - and this will keep the protective 'ferrous' layer intact. Otherwise, expect to develop pin holes and leaks in short order. hope this helps. |
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