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Alternator controller
I found in a wonderful resource I had not seen before,
http://www.practical-sailor.com/news...Questions4.pdf a reference today to a design in The 12 Volt Doctor's Practical Handbook for an alternator controller. It's not an easy book to get in the UK and I wonder if anyone who has a copy would be able to tell me more about the section of the book that deal with this project, or perhaps scan and mail it if it's not too long. Regards, Jerry (Remove the obvious from my address to mail me) |
Jerry,
Doubt if it's the newest version but you could try: http://www.boten.nl/motoren/motoren_...lthandbook.pdf Regards, Len. On Mon, 12 Sep 2005 23:48:45 GMT, (The Floating Bear) wrote: The 12 Volt Doctor's Practical Handbook It's not an easy book to get in the UK |
I think complex electronic regulators is a step in the wrong direction. The
whole idea of the Manual Alt. Control (MAC) is to override the standard alternator regulator. Reason being, the standard regulator starts 'tapering off' long before your battery is fully charged, assuming you will be running your engine for many hours, as in an automobile. The real world on a sail boat, you want to charge a large battery bank in short order so you can secure your engine and enjoy the piece and quiet of sailing or your anchorage. The MAC allows you to charge at a higher amperage until you observe the proper voltage level. It also allows you to raise this voltage for a short period for the occasional equalization charge. With care all of these functions can be accomplished with the simplest MAC. C.Plath, following Edgar Beyn's (author of 12volt Doctor's, etc) designs, developed the AutoMac and the AutoMac II which gradually became more complex. This complexity, however allowed semi automatic charging that is better suited to the needs of a boater with high demand and deep cycle batteries. I have been using the AutoMac II for 3 years and it works flawlessly. However, it will over work a automotive alternator since they aren't capable of producing their rated output for extended periods of time. Even at 80% of rated capacity I burned out two this summer. One went from overheated brushes and the other was due to burned out stator. I think I could have avoided the latter if I had installed the AutoMac temp sensor on the alternator case. (lost that some place over the years). The C.Plath AutoMac and AutoMac II is no longer made and I purchased mine over 10 years ago but only installed it on this boat 3 years ago. It is much more complex than the old MAC described in these books. It is solid state and well built, with mostly automatic function in all charging phases. Here is a link to the installation and operation manual for the AutoMac II. http://www.hctc.com/~esteve/INGRID%2...s/cplath~1.pdf Perhaps you may find one at a swap meet or on eBay. I know I don't want to sell mine. -- My experience and opinion, FWIW -- Steve s/v Good Intentions |
It worked flawlessly but it cooked two alternators? Hmmmm ...
Clearly a "standard regulator" doesn't work for quick battery charging, but I've been impressed with my 3-stage (7 year old Xantrex 2000R) and a newer Balmar alternator. It bring the batteries (450 AH's) up to about 85% fairly quickly before tapering off. It starts a over 100 Amps, drops to about 85 for a long while. I would think if I tried to speed up the process at all, I would cook the batteries. The only advantage I see of the automac is that its cheaper, or would be if currently produced. Now that you mention it, maybe I should get one for my second engine; it still has the stock alternator which isn't up to the task. Steve wrote: I think complex electronic regulators is a step in the wrong direction. The whole idea of the Manual Alt. Control (MAC) is to override the standard alternator regulator. Reason being, the standard regulator starts 'tapering off' long before your battery is fully charged, assuming you will be running your engine for many hours, as in an automobile. The real world on a sail boat, you want to charge a large battery bank in short order so you can secure your engine and enjoy the piece and quiet of sailing or your anchorage. The MAC allows you to charge at a higher amperage until you observe the proper voltage level. It also allows you to raise this voltage for a short period for the occasional equalization charge. With care all of these functions can be accomplished with the simplest MAC. C.Plath, following Edgar Beyn's (author of 12volt Doctor's, etc) designs, developed the AutoMac and the AutoMac II which gradually became more complex. This complexity, however allowed semi automatic charging that is better suited to the needs of a boater with high demand and deep cycle batteries. I have been using the AutoMac II for 3 years and it works flawlessly. However, it will over work a automotive alternator since they aren't capable of producing their rated output for extended periods of time. Even at 80% of rated capacity I burned out two this summer. One went from overheated brushes and the other was due to burned out stator. I think I could have avoided the latter if I had installed the AutoMac temp sensor on the alternator case. (lost that some place over the years). The C.Plath AutoMac and AutoMac II is no longer made and I purchased mine over 10 years ago but only installed it on this boat 3 years ago. It is much more complex than the old MAC described in these books. It is solid state and well built, with mostly automatic function in all charging phases. Here is a link to the installation and operation manual for the AutoMac II. http://www.hctc.com/~esteve/INGRID%2...s/cplath~1.pdf Perhaps you may find one at a swap meet or on eBay. I know I don't want to sell mine. |
"Jeff" wrote in message ... It worked flawlessly but it cooked two alternators? Hmmmm ... I don't blame the AutoMac II since I was charging into a 800ah battery bank that was at less than 50% at times and required several hours of heavy charging. Admittedly I was only using, 1st a 120amp alt. and replaced that with a 100amp. It should be noted that on either alternator, I only charged at 80% of their rated output and they still over heated. The AutoMac II is suppose to have a temp. sensor on the alternator but I lost mine somewhere in storage and Plath no longer has a replacement available. I tried the Balmar but that was a different type and not compatible with the controller. It is suppose to be a simple thermal switch similar to those on a AC frig. compressor. Steve s/v Good Intentions |
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"Steve" wrote in message om... I think complex electronic regulators is a step in the wrong direction. The whole idea of the Manual Alt. Control (MAC) is to override the standard alternator regulator. Reason being, the standard regulator starts 'tapering off' long before your battery is fully charged, assuming you will be running your engine for many hours, as in an automobile. The real world on a sail boat, you want to charge a large battery bank in short order so you can secure your engine and enjoy the piece and quiet of sailing or your anchorage. The MAC allows you to charge at a higher amperage until you observe the proper voltage level. It also allows you to raise this voltage for a short period for the occasional equalization charge. With care all of these functions can be accomplished with the simplest MAC. Most modern regulators (more accurately called a Charge Controller) do this automatically. One can't manually do as good a job as a good 3 stage automatic controller. That is, if you want to maximize the lifetime of the batteries as well as get a good charge in a minimum of time. I seen several boats that have trashed batteries trying to manually control charging. Just not worth it. C.Plath, following Edgar Beyn's (author of 12volt Doctor's, etc) designs, developed the AutoMac and the AutoMac II which gradually became more complex. This complexity, however allowed semi automatic charging that is better suited to the needs of a boater with high demand and deep cycle batteries. I have been using the AutoMac II for 3 years and it works flawlessly. However, it will over work a automotive alternator since they aren't capable of producing their rated output for extended periods of time. Even at 80% of rated capacity I burned out two this summer. One went from overheated brushes and the other was due to burned out stator. I think I could have avoided the latter if I had installed the AutoMac temp sensor on the alternator case. (lost that some place over the years). The C.Plath AutoMac and AutoMac II is no longer made and I purchased mine over 10 years ago but only installed it on this boat 3 years ago. It is much more complex than the old MAC described in these books. It is solid state and well built, with mostly automatic function in all charging phases. Here is a link to the installation and operation manual for the AutoMac II. http://www.hctc.com/~esteve/INGRID%2...s/cplath~1.pdf Perhaps you may find one at a swap meet or on eBay. I know I don't want to sell mine. -- My experience and opinion, FWIW -- Steve s/v Good Intentions |
"The Floating Bear" wrote in message k... In article , (Steve) wrote: I think complex electronic regulators is a step in the wrong direction. My problem is that I am forgetful, and I can imagine that I would cook the battery or alternator too easily if I had to remember to do any switching. Mind you, I am talking about a 35A alternator on a Yanmar 1GM10 (replacement Japanese unit as the Yanmar one died comprehensively and it was the Devil's own job getting one that would fit. I think if I were doing it again, I would do the engineering to take something very standard like a Lucas or Bosch automotive unit. My batteries are an 80AH unit for engine starting and a 110AH service battery, so it's all a bit different from the serious installations that some people are discussing. However, it's only about 10 mins motoring from my mooring to where I start to sail, so I'd like to get charge in as quickly as I can. Mind you, when I switch in the service battery with the 0-1-2-both switch, I get a significant rev drop on the engine even with my poor little 35A alternator. However, a controller that let me get more of the 35A out usefully would be very handy. The modern charge controllers that I am familiar with all full-field the alternator during the bulk portion of the charge. Mine actually ramps the current up gradually over less than a minute to reduce stress on the system. The alternator is kept a full-field until the batteries reach the absorption voltage. The goal is to charge the batteries as quickly as is safe while looking out for the health of the batteries. A manual system can;t do any better. Also, temperature compensation is important as well if the batteries are expected to have a happy and healthy life. Doug The Plath AutoMAC II sounds just the thing - I don't suppose anyone has a circuit diagram and/or knows if the components would still be available? Regards, Jerry |
"Doug Dotson" dougdotson@NOSPAMcablespeedNOSPAMcom wrote in message ... "Steve" wrote in message om... Most modern regulators (more accurately called a Charge Controller) do this automatically. One can't manually do as good a job as a good 3 stage automatic controller. That is, if you want to maximize the lifetime of the batteries as well as get a good charge in a minimum of time. I seen several boats that have trashed batteries trying to manually control charging. Just not worth it. Let me clearify, that the C.Plath AutoMacII is a three stag charge controler and the only thing that the operator need to manually set is the charge current (within the rated capacity of the alternator). If you back off to the minimum setting the alternator takes over. Now I agree that the MAC that is discribed in the 12volt Doctor's book is totally manual unless you reduce the setting to minimum, where the alternator takes over. This system does require operator attention during the charging process and could damage the batteries if not attended to properly. I built a MAC for my last boat, which I lived aboard at anchor. I only had a pair of Trojan 105s and minimal load requirements. I also had a pair of 56 watt solar panels and actual engine charging only occured once a week or so when I had been using the TV longer than I should. -- My experience and opinion, FWIW -- Steve s/v Good Intentions |
"The Floating Bear" wrote in message k... drop on the engine even with my poor little 35A alternator. However, a controller that let me get more of the 35A out usefully would be very handy. I think something should be clarified here. You can't get more amperage out of an alternator than it is rated. Your 35 amp alternator will only output something slightly less than 35 amps, no matter what kind of charge controller you use. The main advantage of the any charge controller is the ability to keep the alternator charging at or near it's max. for a longer period of time, until a charge level has been reached. The alternator regulator begins tapering off at an earlier stage than is normal required for boat batteries and engine run requirements. -- My experience and opinion, FWIW -- Steve s/v Good Intentions |
"Steve" wrote in
om: you want to charge a large battery bank in short order Help IS on the way, guys! This is Toshiba's new Li-Ion battery, on its way into your new electric car.....and boat. http://www.toshiba.co.jp/about/press/2005_03/pr2901.htm Lead acid batteries, no matter how much you spend on AGM or some other amazingly hyped technology, cannot be recharged fast, as fast as the poster would like. The chemistry is not up to it....Toshiba's is. 80% charge in 60 seconds.......100% in 3 minutes.....1% capacity loss after 1000 cycles....soon to be used in industrial and automotive applications, which means it'll have some very serious amp-hour capacities. I think we FINALLY have a quick-charge battery on the horizon. Golf Cart and AGMs will soon be forgotten relics of the Edison Age. Read about how SMALL AND LIGHT they are per amp-hour rating! -- Larry |
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AGMs can be charged very fast. But not like the LiIon technology.
"Larry" wrote in message ... "Steve" wrote in om: you want to charge a large battery bank in short order Help IS on the way, guys! This is Toshiba's new Li-Ion battery, on its way into your new electric car.....and boat. http://www.toshiba.co.jp/about/press/2005_03/pr2901.htm Lead acid batteries, no matter how much you spend on AGM or some other amazingly hyped technology, cannot be recharged fast, as fast as the poster would like. The chemistry is not up to it....Toshiba's is. 80% charge in 60 seconds.......100% in 3 minutes.....1% capacity loss after 1000 cycles....soon to be used in industrial and automotive applications, which means it'll have some very serious amp-hour capacities. I think we FINALLY have a quick-charge battery on the horizon. Golf Cart and AGMs will soon be forgotten relics of the Edison Age. Read about how SMALL AND LIGHT they are per amp-hour rating! -- Larry |
CAn;t get something for nothing. Doesn;t matter how fast they can be charged
if you are limited in charging capacity (ie alternator). I can just see the marketing. CHarges in 5 minutes (opps! Need a 2000A altrnator to do it). Doug "Larry" wrote in message ... "Steve" wrote in om: you want to charge a large battery bank in short order Help IS on the way, guys! This is Toshiba's new Li-Ion battery, on its way into your new electric car.....and boat. http://www.toshiba.co.jp/about/press/2005_03/pr2901.htm Lead acid batteries, no matter how much you spend on AGM or some other amazingly hyped technology, cannot be recharged fast, as fast as the poster would like. The chemistry is not up to it....Toshiba's is. 80% charge in 60 seconds.......100% in 3 minutes.....1% capacity loss after 1000 cycles....soon to be used in industrial and automotive applications, which means it'll have some very serious amp-hour capacities. I think we FINALLY have a quick-charge battery on the horizon. Golf Cart and AGMs will soon be forgotten relics of the Edison Age. Read about how SMALL AND LIGHT they are per amp-hour rating! -- Larry |
"Doug Dotson" dougdotson@NOSPAMcablespeedNOSPAMcom wrote in news:t-
: AGMs can be charged very fast. But not like the LiIon technology. Let's charge a 500AH AGM battery in 30 minutes from 50% at 500A and watch it happen. I'll be some 500 yards off observing the proceeding through HEAVY lenses..(c; Question - If AGMs are such great chargers, so fast, why don't Honda and Toyota hybrids have AGM batteries...instead of Ni-MH?? -- Larry |
"Doug Dotson" dougdotson@NOSPAMcablespeedNOSPAMcom wrote in
news:5fmdnbJp2bOrirrenZ2dnUVZ_s2dnZ2d@cablespeedmd .com: Need a 2000A altrnator to do it AT this point, we pull the shaft out of the boat and connect the 2000A alternator to where the transmission used to be. Then, propulsion will be by traction motor, similar to every submarine under you, driven by the diesel-electric, which also doubles as a 2000A alternator on the hook to charge the massive Li-Ion banks. It's time to think ELECTRIC! They'll charge slower, several minutes, at the dock. We only gots 50A 115VAC, you know...(c; -- Larry |
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The Floating Bear wrote:
I found in a wonderful resource I had not seen before, http://www.practical-sailor.com/news...Questions4.pdf a reference today to a design in The 12 Volt Doctor's Practical Handbook for an alternator controller. It's not an easy book to get in the UK and I wonder if anyone who has a copy would be able to tell me more about the section of the book that deal with this project, or perhaps scan and mail it if it's not too long. Regards, Jerry (Remove the obvious from my address to mail me) You don't need plans to build a manual alternator controller. Just buy a rheostat rated for 12 volts and however much current will be going into the alternator field wire and hook it up between the battery and the alternator field wire. Thats what I did when my regulator died when I was cruising, and it worked like a charm; charged the batteries much quicker than the old regulator. You have to have a good voltage meter on your battery bank and know at what voltage to start tapering down the charge so you don't fry your batteries. Andy |
"Larry" wrote in message ... "Doug Dotson" dougdotson@NOSPAMcablespeedNOSPAMcom wrote in news:t- : AGMs can be charged very fast. But not like the LiIon technology. Let's charge a 500AH AGM battery in 30 minutes from 50% at 500A and watch it happen. The specs say it will work. I don;t have the means to test it. I'll be some 500 yards off observing the proceeding through HEAVY lenses..(c; Your heavy lenses indicate your nearsightedness with regard to anything involving AGMs. You have indicated your distain for the technology in the past. I expect nothing more. Question - If AGMs are such great chargers, so fast, why don't Honda and Toyota hybrids have AGM batteries...instead of Ni-MH?? Well, AGMs are batteries not chargers. The batteries in the hybrids are not deep cycle batteries. They are 6AH at 201+ volts. They are only good for 6 or 7 miles if used as the sole drive source and will be severely dammaged. -- Larry |
Your old regulator was junk. No wonder doing it manually worked better as
long as you pay attention. How long did you charge them manually and how long did they last? "Andy" wrote in message ups.com... The Floating Bear wrote: I found in a wonderful resource I had not seen before, http://www.practical-sailor.com/news...Questions4.pdf a reference today to a design in The 12 Volt Doctor's Practical Handbook for an alternator controller. It's not an easy book to get in the UK and I wonder if anyone who has a copy would be able to tell me more about the section of the book that deal with this project, or perhaps scan and mail it if it's not too long. Regards, Jerry (Remove the obvious from my address to mail me) You don't need plans to build a manual alternator controller. Just buy a rheostat rated for 12 volts and however much current will be going into the alternator field wire and hook it up between the battery and the alternator field wire. Thats what I did when my regulator died when I was cruising, and it worked like a charm; charged the batteries much quicker than the old regulator. You have to have a good voltage meter on your battery bank and know at what voltage to start tapering down the charge so you don't fry your batteries. Andy |
Doug Dotson wrote:
"Andy" wrote in message You don't need plans to build a manual alternator controller. Just buy a rheostat rated for 12 volts and however much current will be going into the alternator field wire and hook it up between the battery and the alternator field wire. Thats what I did when my regulator died when I was cruising, and it worked like a charm; charged the batteries much quicker than the old regulator. You have to have a good voltage meter on your battery bank and know at what voltage to start tapering down the charge so you don't fry your batteries. Andy Your old regulator was junk. No wonder doing it manually worked better as long as you pay attention. How long did you charge them manually and how long did they last? After my regulator died I used combinations of lightbulbs as my regulator for a couple of months. (See Nigel Calder, Boatowners Mechanical and Electrical Manual, 2nd ed. page 71) Then I finally found a rheostat, and used that from Panama to San Diego, another 4 months, so I used some form of manual control for 6 months cruising full time. The batteries still seemed just the same when we sold the boat 6 months after we got back. Regulators are not magic; all they do is adjust the current flowing into the alternator field wire to maintain a certain voltage in the battery bank when charging. Once you do a little reading and learn what voltage(s) your batteries should be at when charging you can do just as good a job as any regulator. The only advantage of a regulator is that it can't get distracted and forget to turn down the current to the alternator field wire. Once you have used a manual contoller for a while you get a feel for when you need to turn down the current in the charging cycle and it becomes habit. Andy |
"Andy" wrote in message oups.com... Doug Dotson wrote: "Andy" wrote in message You don't need plans to build a manual alternator controller. Just buy a rheostat rated for 12 volts and however much current will be going into the alternator field wire and hook it up between the battery and the alternator field wire. Thats what I did when my regulator died when I was cruising, and it worked like a charm; charged the batteries much quicker than the old regulator. You have to have a good voltage meter on your battery bank and know at what voltage to start tapering down the charge so you don't fry your batteries. Andy Your old regulator was junk. No wonder doing it manually worked better as long as you pay attention. How long did you charge them manually and how long did they last? After my regulator died I used combinations of lightbulbs as my regulator for a couple of months. (See Nigel Calder, Boatowners Mechanical and Electrical Manual, 2nd ed. page 71) Then I finally found a rheostat, and used that from Panama to San Diego, another 4 months, so I used some form of manual control for 6 months cruising full time. The batteries still seemed just the same when we sold the boat 6 months after we got back. Regulators are not magic; all they do is adjust the current flowing into the alternator field wire to maintain a certain voltage in the battery bank when charging. Once you do a little reading and learn what voltage(s) your batteries should be at when charging you can do just as good a job as any regulator. The only advantage of a regulator is that it can't get distracted and forget to turn down the current to the alternator field wire. Once you have used a manual contoller for a while you get a feel for when you need to turn down the current in the charging cycle and it becomes habit. But you can never do it as accurately as a good charge controller. I doubt that manually one can adjust the voltage according to the battery temperature when the voltage difference is 0.05 volts per degree C. A couple tenths of a volt can be the difference between undercharging and boiling off the electrolyte. In a pinch doing it manually will get you home. 6 months doesn;t tell the story. Andy |
"Doug Dotson" dougdotson@NOSPAMcablespeedNOSPAMcom wrote in
: Well, AGMs are batteries not chargers. The batteries in the hybrids are not deep cycle batteries. They are 6AH at 201+ volts. They are only good for 6 or 7 miles if used as the sole drive source and will be severely dammaged. Hmm....Ni-MH batteries may be run completely dead, over and over....unlike old lead-acids that eat holes in the plates, even if you wrap the plates around fiberglass gauze. I deep cycle nearly all my Ni-MH batteries all the time without destroying them. Some of them are 10 years old. My disdain, on the other hand, is more about the AGM battery HYPE than the AGM batteries themselves. They are JUST lead-acid batteries, not some magic wonder the marketing depts try to make them out to be to justify the awful price. Look closely at them. They are CHEAPER to make than a proper wetcell. Thin lead so you can wrap them tightly, the only way they'll get contact with the electrolyte soaked into the gauze....no need for exotic plate structures to hold the soft lead in place in a liquid medium. No fancy separators to keep the plates from shorting out in a liquid medium. Where's the wonder technology? I don't see any Palladium or Platinum pieces to justify them selling for triple, do you? No, it's the HYPE that grinds my skin. There's AGM batteries in my stepvan, 2 of them to get enough current to crank the V-8 diesel. One failed, already, getting so hot the case melted. The gauze must have had a hole in it inside somewhere. AGM "technology" came from the same capacitors (rolled up plates with insulators instead of soaked gauze between the plates in a round tube) we've been making since the 19-teens. It's not "new".... -- Larry |
"Larry" wrote in message ... "Doug Dotson" dougdotson@NOSPAMcablespeedNOSPAMcom wrote in : Well, AGMs are batteries not chargers. The batteries in the hybrids are not deep cycle batteries. They are 6AH at 201+ volts. They are only good for 6 or 7 miles if used as the sole drive source and will be severely dammaged. Hmm....Ni-MH batteries may be run completely dead, over and over....unlike old lead-acids that eat holes in the plates, even if you wrap the plates around fiberglass gauze. I deep cycle nearly all my Ni-MH batteries all the time without destroying them. Some of them are 10 years old. AGMs can be run down flat and left that way for long periods of time with no ill effects. My disdain, on the other hand, is more about the AGM battery HYPE than the AGM batteries themselves. They are JUST lead-acid batteries, not some magic wonder the marketing depts try to make them out to be to justify the awful price. Look closely at them. They are CHEAPER to make than a proper wetcell. Thin lead so you can wrap them tightly, the only way they'll get contact with the electrolyte soaked into the gauze....no need for exotic plate structures to hold the soft lead in place in a liquid medium. No fancy separators to keep the plates from shorting out in a liquid medium. Where's the wonder technology? I don't see any Palladium or Platinum pieces to justify them selling for triple, do you? Beats me. But since they far outlast liquid batteries they end up being cheaper in the long run. No, it's the HYPE that grinds my skin. There's AGM batteries in my stepvan, 2 of them to get enough current to crank the V-8 diesel. One failed, already, getting so hot the case melted. The gauze must have had a hole in it inside somewhere. AGM "technology" came from the same capacitors (rolled up plates with insulators instead of soaked gauze between the plates in a round tube) we've been making since the 19-teens. It's not "new".... No one said they are new. They have been used in military aircraft for at least 20 years. -- Larry |
"Doug Dotson" dougdotson@NOSPAMcablespeedNOSPAMcom wrote in
: AGMs can be run down flat and left that way for long periods of time with no ill effects. Amazing.....Well, this ****ing contest is over. We'll agree to disagree. -- Larry |
"Larry" wrote in message ... "Doug Dotson" dougdotson@NOSPAMcablespeedNOSPAMcom wrote in : AGMs can be run down flat and left that way for long periods of time with no ill effects. Amazing.....Well, this ****ing contest is over. We'll agree to disagree. -- Larry Good idea. You've made a career over the past few years of poo-pooing AGM batteries even though they have a proven good track record. |
If you can hear a rev drop in your engine from the alternator, you are
already charging at close to its maximum output. I think the real issue is that you are only charging 10 minutes at a time, not nearly enough to bring the batteries back to full charge or close to it. I'd recommend getting a solar panel which will keep the batteries topped off at your mooring. |
In article . com,
() wrote: If you can hear a rev drop in your engine from the alternator, you are already charging at close to its maximum output But the revs come up again after a while as the charge current drops off. I think the real issue is that you are only charging 10 minutes at a time I actually tend to motor for longer than I need to, so that I can get some charge into the batteries. I'd like to have to motor less, by making the charging more efficient within the capacity of the 35A alternator, i.e. to be running at 20A for 30 mins rather than dropping back to 5A within a few minutes as the standard regulator does (figures guessed at to illustrate a point). I'd recommend getting a solar panel A completely reasonable suggestion but several hundred quid to buy for anything worthwhile, but in the UK I'd be inclined to go for a wind generator. Still several hundred quid, though. Except that in The 12 volt Doctor they discuss modifying an old ceiling fan motor to as a wind generator. I can envisage a way of doing something like the Dolphin vertical axis unit http://www.solarenergyalliance.com/w...or_dolphin.htm New ceiling fans are under £20 in the DIY sheds now . . . Regards, Jerry |
"The Floating Bear" wrote in message . uk... In article . com, () wrote: If you can hear a rev drop in your engine from the alternator, you are already charging at close to its maximum output But the revs come up again after a while as the charge current drops off. Being able to hear the revs drop off is no indication of anything other than the alternator is under enough load to cause the drop. My alternator can cause an audible drop in RPM when running at only 50-60A. It has a capacity of 160A. Depends upon the size of the engine, its condition,and the size of the alternator. I think the real issue is that you are only charging 10 minutes at a time I actually tend to motor for longer than I need to, so that I can get some charge into the batteries. I'd like to have to motor less, by making the charging more efficient within the capacity of the 35A alternator, i.e. to be running at 20A for 30 mins rather than dropping back to 5A within a few minutes as the standard regulator does (figures guessed at to illustrate a point). Sounds like a better regulator is the solution. If the regulator drops back to such a low current so soon when the battery still needs charge then something is wrong. A proper regulator will keep the charge as high as is safe for as long as the battery needs it. I'd recommend getting a solar panel A completely reasonable suggestion but several hundred quid to buy for anything worthwhile, but in the UK I'd be inclined to go for a wind generator. Still several hundred quid, though. Except that in The 12 volt Doctor they discuss modifying an old ceiling fan motor to as a wind generator. I can envisage a way of doing something like the Dolphin vertical axis unit I have a couple of permanent magnet tape drive motors that are popular for making wind generators. Drop me a personal email if you are interested in one. Doug http://www.solarenergyalliance.com/w...or_dolphin.htm New ceiling fans are under £20 in the DIY sheds now . . . Regards, Jerry |
Sounds like a better regulator is the solution
My regulator is an ordinary machine-sensed automotive one in the alternator, which is why I was asking about proper regs with which to replace it. A kind offer of the tape drive motors, but I am in the UK. However, I have a faulty Quantum DLT drive under my desk - is that the kind that the motors come from or are we talking about one of the big, vertical open-reel ones that so impressed us in old films? Regards, Jerry |
"The Floating Bear" wrote in message . uk... Sounds like a better regulator is the solution My regulator is an ordinary machine-sensed automotive one in the alternator, which is why I was asking about proper regs with which to replace it. You first have to verify that you can modify your alternator to work with an external charge controller. A kind offer of the tape drive motors, but I am in the UK. However, I have a faulty Quantum DLT drive under my desk - is that the kind that the motors come from or are we talking about one of the big, vertical open-reel ones that so impressed us in old films? I don't know what type of tape drive the motor came out of. It is about 5" long and 4" in diameter. Weighs a few pounds. Regards, Jerry |
In article ,
dougdotson@NOSPAMcablespeedNOSPAMcom (Doug Dotson) wrote: You first have to verify that you can modify your alternator to work with an external charge controller. I don't think that will be a problem. It's normally just a case of soldering a wire to one of the rotor brush connections. Or am I missing something? Regards, Jerry |
"The Floating Bear" wrote in message . uk... In article , dougdotson@NOSPAMcablespeedNOSPAMcom (Doug Dotson) wrote: You first have to verify that you can modify your alternator to work with an external charge controller. I don't think that will be a problem. It's normally just a case of soldering a wire to one of the rotor brush connections. Or am I missing something? Regards, Jerry It's usually a matter of the physical constraints. Can you get to the appropriate wires to make the connections and provide a reasonable exit for the wires? If so, then you are set. Doug |
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