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#1
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Will PB Blaster free a stainless steel bolt frozen in an aluminum
casting? Will anything loosen such a bolt in such a casting? Serious question. My bow fitting is aluminum secured to the boat with a stainless steel chainplate. But the bolt that holds the forestay in place is stainless steel inserted through ears on the casting. And it's frozen. |
#2
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Gogarty wrote:
Will PB Blaster free a stainless steel bolt frozen in an aluminum casting? Will anything loosen such a bolt in such a casting? Serious question. My bow fitting is aluminum secured to the boat with a stainless steel chainplate. But the bolt that holds the forestay in place is stainless steel inserted through ears on the casting. And it's frozen. Can't comment on PB Blaster but have had pretty good luck with Kroil from Kano Labs for many applications. I'd call one of them and talk to the tech service people. Lew |
#3
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Soak in PB Blaster for a day or two, reapplying occasionally. Tap with
a hammer lightly when you reapply. If that doesn't work, heat up as Miks said. PB Blaster and Kroil work about the same... either is the best I've ever seen to loosen frozen parts. |
#4
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Gogarty wrote:
Will PB Blaster free a stainless steel bolt frozen in an aluminum casting? Will anything loosen such a bolt in such a casting? Serious question. My bow fitting is aluminum secured to the boat with a stainless steel chainplate. But the bolt that holds the forestay in place is stainless steel inserted through ears on the casting. And it's frozen. You have one of those situations that everyone dreads. The safest way to solve it is the most agressive. If you're uncomfortable about drilling it out yourself, have a millwright or machinist do it for you. Trust me it is the solution with the least risk. If you are going to do it yourself use a center punch to strick a pilot indentation dead center of the bolt. This will keep your drill bit from traveling off center when you start drilling and assist in drilling through the bolt dead center. Extreme care needs to be taken to keep the drill bit in line with the bolt and not drift off at an angle. Use a much smaller drill bit than what is needed to chase the bolt to the thread size first as a pilot hole . Then increase to the size of drill bit needed to actually drill out the bolt. Your dealing with stainless steal, take care not to have the drill brake off. A broken bit will be worse than the situation you have now. Once the hole has been drilled out to the bolt size just at the threads you can then decide to chase the threads with a tap of the same thread size or drill to the reomended hole size to accept the next size tap to the next bolt size. Using heat will undoubtably compromise the aluminum. You don't want to go there. If you decide to use chemicles to lossen the bolt, center punch it first to be sure you have dead center before trying to remove the bolt because once you try removeing the bolt you will deform the outside edges making it difficult to find center afterwards for drilling. Even using chemicals you will need to strike the bolt several times to break the aluminum oxide that has frozen the bolt. Spray with chemical hit bolt using hammer and center punch spray chemical and strike again. Let stand for a period of time then repeat. You may want to spread this process over the entire day to let the chemical have a chance to actually penitrate. haste makes waste. Sorry for the wandering thought. I've A horrible headache. Hope this helps. Good Luck |
#5
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sir
my experience in 20 years of water industry would lead me to try first soaking overnight with every breakfree style stuff you can find we use "certified "brand break free spray if all else fails mark the center of the bolt with a hole punch using a cobalt or diamond bit drill the center of the bolt out the depth of the bolt...try more break free ...if that failsl you can drive an "easy-out " bolt remover into it and try that....if that fail....oboy......drill the bolt to the diameter of its threads and retap the hole sound like fun...hahahahahaa stainless is famous for spalling (welding) itself so always use Neversieze on stainless fittings vitus |
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