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#1
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Does anyone have any experience to report with the new solid state
bilge pump water sensors such as the Johnson Ultima? Sounds like a good, no jamb, no cog, idea to me. The Johnson switch appears to have only two wires and go in series in the circuit. I'm durned if I can see then how it gets the power to run its little brain when the pump isn't running unless it has a little rechargeable battery in it some place. If your boat was really tight and sat for a long time with dry bilges, could the switch then go to sleep and not turn on if water got in? I like the time delay feature. We have a wide bilge sump and, with run back from the hoses, could end up with short cycling when the boat rolls. -- Roger Long |
#2
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"Roger Long" wrote in
news ![]() Does anyone have any experience to report with the new solid state bilge pump water sensors such as the Johnson Ultima? Sounds like a good, no jamb, no cog, idea to me. Ever try putting the float switch in a little cage made out of plastic screen? It keeps the crap out of the switch float. Put a hook in the top of it with a line you can pull on if your bilges are deep. Our bilge pump is so far down you can hardly see it, much less reach it. |
#3
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On Sun, 08 May 2005 12:18:43 GMT, "Roger Long"
wrote: // The Johnson switch appears to have only two wires and go in series in the circuit. I'm durned if I can see then how it gets the power to run its little brain when the pump isn't running // Hmmm...the appropriate question is the power to run it when it turns ON. It has battery volts when off. Brian Whatcott Altus, OK |
#4
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I used a solid state switch for years. It worked well. Wasn't a Johnson
though, I beleive it was called a Water Witch" or something like that. It was powered by the battery that powers the pump. Doug "Roger Long" wrote in message news ![]() Does anyone have any experience to report with the new solid state bilge pump water sensors such as the Johnson Ultima? Sounds like a good, no jamb, no cog, idea to me. The Johnson switch appears to have only two wires and go in series in the circuit. I'm durned if I can see then how it gets the power to run its little brain when the pump isn't running unless it has a little rechargeable battery in it some place. If your boat was really tight and sat for a long time with dry bilges, could the switch then go to sleep and not turn on if water got in? I like the time delay feature. We have a wide bilge sump and, with run back from the hoses, could end up with short cycling when the boat rolls. -- Roger Long |
#5
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On Sun, 08 May 2005 08:42:43 -0400, Larry W4CSC
wrote: "Roger Long" wrote in news ![]() Does anyone have any experience to report with the new solid state bilge pump water sensors such as the Johnson Ultima? Sounds like a good, no jamb, no cog, idea to me. Ever try putting the float switch in a little cage made out of plastic screen? It keeps the crap out of the switch float. Put a hook in the top of it with a line you can pull on if your bilges are deep. Our bilge pump is so far down you can hardly see it, much less reach it. I have a pump that reaches down into the deep bilge with a suction hose. My main bilge pumps are pretty easy to get to. |
#6
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Skipper wrote in
: I have a pump that reaches down into the deep bilge with a suction hose. My main bilge pumps are pretty easy to get to. Because Lionheart, an Amel Sharki ketch, has all its drains going into the bilge, not overboard, she came with a quite-large, self-priming electric diaphram bilge pump. But, alas, before we got it, noone lubed its bearings so they were all destroyed. The motor bearings were so worn the rotor was locked to the stator. I suppose your pump is like that. Man those things are expensive! |
#7
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Well, I've decided to go even higher tech. For just ten bucks more
than the SansSwithc that West Marine had, I've ordered their See Water switch. This is a capacitive switch that is height adjustable so you can fine tune the cut off level. The thing that sold me about it though is that it doesn't sense oil or fuel. That way, if the fuel tank springs a leak or a fuel line breaks, the bilge system won't pump the whole mess overboard. Even if you have a lot of fuel oil floating on top of the water, it will pump out the water and stop when it hits the oil. Having seen the havoc of automatic bilge pumps emptying fuel tanks into the harbor, I think this ten bucks is good insurance. That's the theory anyway. I'll let you know how it actually works out I'm really pondering Larry's suggestion to not have bilge pump cut off switches and it seems to make sense. Turning off the bilge pumps would be so rare that pulling the fuse wouldn't be a big deal and you don't have to worry about someone turning everything off. I am going with the two bilge pump system BTW. I'll probably wire one off of each battery at the selector switch input through a fuse block with lights as he suggest. That will also free up a switch in my limited panel for something else. The lights across the fuses is a great idea. -- Roger Long |
#8
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On Mon, 09 May 2005 00:50:37 GMT, "Roger Long"
wrote: Well, I've decided to go even higher tech. For just ten bucks more than the SansSwithc that West Marine had, I've ordered their See Water switch. This is a capacitive switch that is height adjustable so you can fine tune the cut off level. The thing that sold me about it though is that it doesn't sense oil or fuel. That way, if the fuel tank springs a leak or a fuel line breaks, the bilge system won't pump the whole mess overboard. Even if you have a lot of fuel oil floating on top of the water, it will pump out the water and stop when it hits the oil. Having seen the havoc of automatic bilge pumps emptying fuel tanks into the harbor, I think this ten bucks is good insurance. That's the theory anyway. I'll let you know how it actually works out /// Capacitive sensors are often used in aircraft fuel tanks as level sensors. Here, the presence of water is a real nuisance because the dielectric constant of water is about 80 and that of fuel is in the low single digits. So for water sensing, this disadvantage looks like a real advantage. Brian Whatcott Altus, OK |
#9
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![]() "Roger Long" wrote in message news ![]() Does anyone have any experience to report with the new solid state bilge pump water sensors such as the Johnson Ultima? Sounds like a good, no jamb, no cog, idea to me. The Johnson switch appears to have only two wires and go in series in the circuit. I'm durned if I can see then how it gets the power to run its little brain when the pump isn't running If the switch is off there is 12 volts accross it as the voltage drop accross the pump motor further down the circuit(while it isn't running) is virtually nil. As the switch uses only a tiny bit of power, the switch thus sends a tiny bit of power through the pump at all times, but so little the pump motor doesn't move. Many electronic home thermostats work this way, they call it "power stealing." Make sense? unless it has a little rechargeable battery in it some place. If your boat was really tight and sat for a long time with dry bilges, could the switch then go to sleep and not turn on if water got in? I like the time delay feature. We have a wide bilge sump and, with run back from the hoses, could end up with short cycling when the boat rolls. -- Roger Long -- Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin Cape Breton Island, Canada kenheaton AT ess wye dee DOT eastlink DOT ca |
#10
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"Ken Heaton" wrote in message
news:XPGfe.57183$tg1.9223@edtnps84... they call it "power stealing." Make sense? Oh, of course. The circuit is complete through the pump. Instead of ON-OFF, the switch is really going from very high resistance to no resistance. -- Roger Long |
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