I would like to keep my Loran C as a back up.
It looks like I may have to replace the coupler for my Loran C to make it
work.
Failing to get a new one I have locate an old coupler that work. The
couplers appears to be sealed and the connections embedded. So I will have
to cut the coaxial at the coupler and re-route new cable. As the connection
will be outside I hate to use cable to cable connectors. May be there is a
way to make a nice splice using braided sleeve. I would appreciate any
instruction on how to do it.


--
Denis

"Denis Marier" wrote
........ As the connection
will be outside I hate to use cable to cable connectors. May be there is
a
way to make a nice splice using braided sleeve.

Not that I know of. The Navy used to use connectors, coating them liberally
(an offensive word to some) with dielectric grease, covering with
heat-shrink then tapeing.

I've spliced coax but never tested the result with radio. It's worth
a try.

If you cut a piece of braided sleeve, you can work it carefully to a
larger diameter. Pushing it over a pen or splicing fid may help.

Slip the sleeve over one half and push down to expose the inner wire.
Join and solder the inner conductor and then tape or compound out to
the required diameter.
Pull the sleeve out and very lightly solder.

You might also see if the cable TV terminals that Radio Shack sells
are the right size.

--

Roger Long



"Denis Marier" wrote in message
...
I would like to keep my Loran C as a back up.
It looks like I may have to replace the coupler for my Loran C to
make it
work.
Failing to get a new one I have locate an old coupler that work.
The
couplers appears to be sealed and the connections embedded. So I
will have
to cut the coaxial at the coupler and re-route new cable. As the
connection
will be outside I hate to use cable to cable connectors. May be
there is a
way to make a nice splice using braided sleeve. I would appreciate
any
instruction on how to do it.


--
Denis

In article ,
"Denis Marier" wrote:

I would like to keep my Loran C as a back up.
It looks like I may have to replace the coupler for my Loran C to make it
work.
Failing to get a new one I have locate an old coupler that work. The
couplers appears to be sealed and the connections embedded. So I will have
to cut the coaxial at the coupler and re-route new cable. As the connection
will be outside I hate to use cable to cable connectors. May be there is a
way to make a nice splice using braided sleeve. I would appreciate any
instruction on how to do it.

The best way is to use standard BNC or UHF connectors and a Female/Female
coupler, then use the PuttyTape to wrap the connection, and Scotch 88
over the PuttyTape. That being said, since Loran C is 100Khz, a
soldered splice will also work if done correctly, and then sealed with
PuttyTape and overwrapped with Scotch 88.
One must keep in mind that ALL Loran C antenna systems use and Active
Coupler and that means there is DC voltage between the center conductor
and the shield that powers the active elements in the coupler.


Bruce in alaska
--
add a 2 before @

Denis,

As the coax is more a shielded cable than a transmission line, do your
best to put the conductors together and forget about it.

I did work in the long lines part of the telephone company many decades
ago and learned how to do a splice in coax. Fortunately, you don't need
to do this.

the simplied version:
- heat shrink 12 D long on the cable
- strip the jacket back 5 D - both ends
- fold the shield back over the the jacket
- cut 10D of doner cable for working material and pull it apart
- strip the core insulation 3D
- join the center conductors as specified
(for your little cable - wind and solder the conductors)
- take core insulation from the doner and cut a piece about 10% too long
to split and place over the conductor splice.
.... if you can not make it close-
cut a sliver of insulation to plug the gap
- wrap this insulation with tape to completely seal the cuts in teh
insulation
- pull the shield braids back over the splice
- trim shield braid to 2D overlap
- wrap shield with stands from the doner as required for smooth joint
- solder the shield (enough so it makes contection will do for you)
- slide the heat shink and heat as required

This is only about a hundredor so lines short of the instructions I was
given so many decades gone.

Matt Colie

Denis Marier wrote:
I would like to keep my Loran C as a back up.
It looks like I may have to replace the coupler for my Loran C to make it
work.
Failing to get a new one I have locate an old coupler that work. The
couplers appears to be sealed and the connections embedded. So I will have
to cut the coaxial at the coupler and re-route new cable. As the connection
will be outside I hate to use cable to cable connectors. May be there is a
way to make a nice splice using braided sleeve. I would appreciate any
instruction on how to do it.

Thanks to every one for the valuable information and comments. It was very
constructive and my seamanship sail will benefit from all those inputs.

"Matt Colie" wrote in message
...
Denis,

As the coax is more a shielded cable than a transmission line, do your
best to put the conductors together and forget about it.

I did work in the long lines part of the telephone company many decades
ago and learned how to do a splice in coax. Fortunately, you don't need
to do this.

the simplied version:
- heat shrink 12 D long on the cable
- strip the jacket back 5 D - both ends
- fold the shield back over the the jacket
- cut 10D of doner cable for working material and pull it apart
- strip the core insulation 3D
- join the center conductors as specified
(for your little cable - wind and solder the conductors)
- take core insulation from the doner and cut a piece about 10% too long
to split and place over the conductor splice.
... if you can not make it close-
cut a sliver of insulation to plug the gap
- wrap this insulation with tape to completely seal the cuts in teh
insulation
- pull the shield braids back over the splice
- trim shield braid to 2D overlap
- wrap shield with stands from the doner as required for smooth joint
- solder the shield (enough so it makes contection will do for you)
- slide the heat shink and heat as required

This is only about a hundredor so lines short of the instructions I was
given so many decades gone.

Matt Colie

Denis Marier wrote:
I would like to keep my Loran C as a back up.
It looks like I may have to replace the coupler for my Loran C to make
it
work.
Failing to get a new one I have locate an old coupler that work. The
couplers appears to be sealed and the connections embedded. So I will
have
to cut the coaxial at the coupler and re-route new cable. As the
connection
will be outside I hate to use cable to cable connectors. May be there
is a
way to make a nice splice using braided sleeve. I would appreciate any
instruction on how to do it.

Pardon my density, but what is the meaning of "D"?

- heat shrink 12 D long on the cable
- strip the jacket back 5 D - both ends
- fold the shield back over the the jacket
- cut 10D of doner cable for working material and pull it apart
- strip the core insulation 3D

12 D = 12 times Diameter etc.

MUST@NOTBLEAVEBUSH wrote:
Pardon my density, but what is the meaning of "D"?

- heat shrink 12 D long on the cable
- strip the jacket back 5 D - both ends
- fold the shield back over the the jacket
- cut 10D of doner cable for working material and pull it apart
- strip the core insulation 3D