On Sun, 27 Mar 2005 19:49:53 -0500, Larry W4CSC
wrote:


Can I ask a silly question? Geez, don't tell any of the yacht
professionals hanging around the dock if you do this, but why can't we
simply install an ENGINE POWERED HEATER like the beast that turns my
stepvan into an oven into the boat's cooling water loop, like the water
heater??......Silly me.

That's a good suggestion in some situations - but the 2GM15 is a two
cylinder 15 HP engine commonly used on sailboats around 30 ft, and is
probably raw-water cooled, so your suggestion won't work.

Even if the engine has a fresh water cooling system, an engine-powered
heater like you suggest will only be useful while the engine is
running - unless the OP wants to leave his engine running all evening
while at anchor, it won't help.

I think the best solution for his heating problem is a small Espar or
Webasto diesel hot air furnace. He did mention that he has a Force 10
propane heater. The one I had one on a previous boat was a
bulkhead-mounted "fireplace" with no provision to circulate the air.
When I stood up in the boat, my head was cooking, but my feet were
freezing.... That sort of heater needs a fan mounted above it to
circulate the heated air.



--
Peter Bennett, VE7CEI
peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca
new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq
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Peter Bennett wrote in
news.com:

I think the best solution for his heating problem is a small Espar or
Webasto diesel hot air furnace. He did mention that he has a Force 10
propane heater. The one I had one on a previous boat was a
bulkhead-mounted "fireplace" with no provision to circulate the air.
When I stood up in the boat, my head was cooking, but my feet were
freezing.... That sort of heater needs a fan mounted above it to
circulate the heated air.


This is the best idea, but there's no room on the small cruisers for it.
Lionheart had a fuel oil forced air heater installed in the port lazarette
when it was built. By the time Geoffrey got it, the heater was all rotten
inside and he removed it to make room for the aft cabin heat pump, which is
more important in Charleston. It looked like the salt air had simply
consumed the diesel heater's steel combustion chamber. It was totally
rusted out.

My Espar is at least 10 years old is still runs great.

"Larry W4CSC" wrote in message
...
Peter Bennett wrote in
news.com:

I think the best solution for his heating problem is a small Espar or
Webasto diesel hot air furnace. He did mention that he has a Force 10
propane heater. The one I had one on a previous boat was a
bulkhead-mounted "fireplace" with no provision to circulate the air.
When I stood up in the boat, my head was cooking, but my feet were
freezing.... That sort of heater needs a fan mounted above it to
circulate the heated air.


This is the best idea, but there's no room on the small cruisers for it.
Lionheart had a fuel oil forced air heater installed in the port lazarette
when it was built. By the time Geoffrey got it, the heater was all rotten
inside and he removed it to make room for the aft cabin heat pump, which
is
more important in Charleston. It looked like the salt air had simply
consumed the diesel heater's steel combustion chamber. It was totally
rusted out.

In article .com,
Peter Bennett wrote:

That's a good suggestion in some situations - but the 2GM15 is a two
cylinder 15 HP engine commonly used on sailboats around 30 ft, and is
probably raw-water cooled, so your suggestion won't work.

Why would the fact that you have Raw water cooling be a deterent?
All that is required is some High Temp Hose, and a Stainless
Liquid/Air Heat Exchanger. Install the heat exchanger between
the output of the engine block and the input to the Raw Water
Exhaust Elbow Input. If you want heat just turn of the fan
blowing thru the heat exchanger. If you don't want heat, just let the
Raw water flow overboard after going thru the heat echanger.
This isn't Rocket Scienc. Cogeneration of this type has been used
on many a small vessel for many, many years, Fresh water or Raw water
cooled.
Look, you already PAID for those BTU's when you purchased your
Dead Dinasour Guts. Better to use them, then heat up the ocean
with them. Remeber 33% of your BTU's go out the output shaft,
33% go out the cooling system, and 33% go up the stack, in diesel
engines.

Bruce in alaska who would like to sell you some more dinasour guts...
--
add a 2 before @

My experience is that the waste water from a raw water15HP Yanmar
doesn;t have enough residual heat to make running a heater practical.
I know you can't run a water heater off of one.

Doug

"Bruce in Alaska" wrote in message
...
In article .com,
Peter Bennett wrote:

That's a good suggestion in some situations - but the 2GM15 is a two
cylinder 15 HP engine commonly used on sailboats around 30 ft, and is
probably raw-water cooled, so your suggestion won't work.

Why would the fact that you have Raw water cooling be a deterent?
All that is required is some High Temp Hose, and a Stainless
Liquid/Air Heat Exchanger. Install the heat exchanger between
the output of the engine block and the input to the Raw Water
Exhaust Elbow Input. If you want heat just turn of the fan
blowing thru the heat exchanger. If you don't want heat, just let the
Raw water flow overboard after going thru the heat echanger.
This isn't Rocket Scienc. Cogeneration of this type has been used
on many a small vessel for many, many years, Fresh water or Raw water
cooled.
Look, you already PAID for those BTU's when you purchased your
Dead Dinasour Guts. Better to use them, then heat up the ocean
with them. Remeber 33% of your BTU's go out the output shaft,
33% go out the cooling system, and 33% go up the stack, in diesel
engines.

Bruce in alaska who would like to sell you some more dinasour guts...
--
add a 2 before @

IIRC, the thermostat on the raw water Yanmars is set rather low, about
140 degrees. This is too low for quickly heating hot water, and could
be marginal for heating. In fact, when I run my fresh water 2GM20F
for charging, it doesn't go above about 160 degrees, and takes a long
time to heat my 11 gallon tank. When pushing the boat hard it brings
the water up to temp in about 20 minutes.


Doug Dotson wrote:
My experience is that the waste water from a raw water15HP Yanmar
doesn;t have enough residual heat to make running a heater practical.
I know you can't run a water heater off of one.

Doug

"Bruce in Alaska" wrote in message
...

In article .com,
Peter Bennett wrote:


That's a good suggestion in some situations - but the 2GM15 is a two
cylinder 15 HP engine commonly used on sailboats around 30 ft, and is
probably raw-water cooled, so your suggestion won't work.

Why would the fact that you have Raw water cooling be a deterent?
All that is required is some High Temp Hose, and a Stainless
Liquid/Air Heat Exchanger. Install the heat exchanger between
the output of the engine block and the input to the Raw Water
Exhaust Elbow Input. If you want heat just turn of the fan
blowing thru the heat exchanger. If you don't want heat, just let the
Raw water flow overboard after going thru the heat echanger.
This isn't Rocket Scienc. Cogeneration of this type has been used
on many a small vessel for many, many years, Fresh water or Raw water
cooled.
Look, you already PAID for those BTU's when you purchased your
Dead Dinasour Guts. Better to use them, then heat up the ocean
with them. Remeber 33% of your BTU's go out the output shaft,
33% go out the cooling system, and 33% go up the stack, in diesel
engines.

Bruce in alaska who would like to sell you some more dinasour guts...
--
add a 2 before @

Right, but raw water vs fresh water system is a different deal. Raw water:
no good for hot water or heat. Fresh water: usually OK.

Doug

"Jeff" wrote in message
news
IIRC, the thermostat on the raw water Yanmars is set rather low, about 140
degrees. This is too low for quickly heating hot water, and could be
marginal for heating. In fact, when I run my fresh water 2GM20F for
charging, it doesn't go above about 160 degrees, and takes a long time to
heat my 11 gallon tank. When pushing the boat hard it brings the water up
to temp in about 20 minutes.


Doug Dotson wrote:
My experience is that the waste water from a raw water15HP Yanmar
doesn;t have enough residual heat to make running a heater practical.
I know you can't run a water heater off of one.

Doug

"Bruce in Alaska" wrote in message
...

In article .com,
Peter Bennett wrote:


That's a good suggestion in some situations - but the 2GM15 is a two
cylinder 15 HP engine commonly used on sailboats around 30 ft, and is
probably raw-water cooled, so your suggestion won't work.

Why would the fact that you have Raw water cooling be a deterent?
All that is required is some High Temp Hose, and a Stainless
Liquid/Air Heat Exchanger. Install the heat exchanger between
the output of the engine block and the input to the Raw Water
Exhaust Elbow Input. If you want heat just turn of the fan
blowing thru the heat exchanger. If you don't want heat, just let the
Raw water flow overboard after going thru the heat echanger.
This isn't Rocket Scienc. Cogeneration of this type has been used
on many a small vessel for many, many years, Fresh water or Raw water
cooled.
Look, you already PAID for those BTU's when you purchased your
Dead Dinasour Guts. Better to use them, then heat up the ocean
with them. Remeber 33% of your BTU's go out the output shaft,
33% go out the cooling system, and 33% go up the stack, in diesel
engines.

Bruce in alaska who would like to sell you some more dinasour guts...
--
add a 2 before @

In article ,
"Doug Dotson" dougdotson@NOSPAMcablespeedNOSPAMcom wrote:

Right, but raw water vs fresh water system is a different deal. Raw water:
no good for hot water or heat. Fresh water: usually OK.

Doug

Geezzz Louise Doug,

Think about this a bit. What is the difference between Raw Water Cooling,
and Fresh Water Cooling? You got the same amount of BTU's coming out of
the engine, right? Why would the addition of a Water/Water heat
exchanger make any difference in how you distribute those BTU's?
BTU's are BTU's. The heat has to go somewhere and if you pump it
overboard your wasting the energy, that could be used to heat the cabin
or water or anything else that requires input BTU's.


Bruce in alaska
--
add a 2 before @

In article ,
"Doug Dotson" dougdotson@NOSPAMcablespeedNOSPAMcom wrote:

My experience is that the waste water from a raw water15HP Yanmar
doesn;t have enough residual heat to make running a heater practical.
I know you can't run a water heater off of one.

Doug

Your dumping those "Paid for" BTU's overboard, and you would be very
suprised at how much heat can be moved out of that Raw water cooling
system that runs at 140F....


Bruce in alaska
--
add a 2 before @

"Bruce in Alaska" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Doug Dotson" dougdotson@NOSPAMcablespeedNOSPAMcom wrote:

My experience is that the waste water from a raw water15HP Yanmar
doesn;t have enough residual heat to make running a heater practical.
I know you can't run a water heater off of one.

Doug

Your dumping those "Paid for" BTU's overboard, and you would be very
suprised at how much heat can be moved out of that Raw water cooling
system that runs at 140F....


Bruce in alaska
--
add a 2 before @

Never worked on my old boat. The 3HM30 raw water engine would never
heat the water hot enough to be useful. After replacing it with a 3GM30F I
had all the hot water I could use. Yanmar apparently told the previous owner
(my father) that using a water heater with the 3HM30 would not work and
that information was correct

Doug