Does anyone know a source of bronze pipe caps that could be used to
blank off old through hulls without fiberglassing up the holes? I'd
fill the hole with something solid as well but I'd like that solid cap
on there.

--

Roger Long

Roger
I do not know where you are in the world, but try a real plumbing
supply house. There is usually one where ever I have been. BoatUS or
some place like them, might have them too.
Greg Luckett

Roger Long wrote:
Does anyone know a source of bronze pipe caps that could be used to
blank off old through hulls without fiberglassing up the holes? I'd
fill the hole with something solid as well but I'd like that solid
cap
on there.

--

Roger Long

Do yourself and the boat a major favor. Do a professional job and glass
the hole. For safety sake if for no other reason. You won't have
electrolysis issues and potential leaks. If you plan to reuse it at
some time, just close it and take the handle off. Caping it might not
be the right move.

A bronze cap of the same material and schedule will be just as
reliable as the thru hull which is a no back up component. Filling
the space with something resilient and flexible will exclude water and
also serve as a plug. I'd much rather depend on this with the thru
hull and inner nut sandwiching the glass that grinding back the hull
structure and depending on secondary glass bonds.

I would just leave the seacocks as you suggest except that they are
gate valves that I'm replacing and relocating at the same time.

--

Roger Long



"chuck" wrote in message
oups.com...
Do yourself and the boat a major favor. Do a professional job and
glass
the hole. For safety sake if for no other reason. You won't have
electrolysis issues and potential leaks. If you plan to reuse it at
some time, just close it and take the handle off. Caping it might
not
be the right move.

Here is one source:
http://www.stright-mackay.com/pages/...5&CategoryID=5

http://www.stright-mackay.com/
--
Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
Cape Breton Island, Canada
kenheaton AT ess wye dee DOT eastlink DOT ca

"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
A bronze cap of the same material and schedule will be just as
reliable as the thru hull which is a no back up component. Filling
the space with something resilient and flexible will exclude water and
also serve as a plug. I'd much rather depend on this with the thru
hull and inner nut sandwiching the glass that grinding back the hull
structure and depending on secondary glass bonds.

I would just leave the seacocks as you suggest except that they are
gate valves that I'm replacing and relocating at the same time.

--

Roger Long



"chuck" wrote in message
oups.com...
Do yourself and the boat a major favor. Do a professional job and
glass
the hole. For safety sake if for no other reason. You won't have
electrolysis issues and potential leaks. If you plan to reuse it at
some time, just close it and take the handle off. Caping it might
not
be the right move.

"Roger Long" wrote in message
...

A bronze cap of the same material and schedule will be just as
reliable as the thru hull which is a no back up component. Filling
the space with something resilient and flexible will exclude water and
also serve as a plug. I'd much rather depend on this with the thru
hull and inner nut sandwiching the glass that grinding back the hull
structure and depending on secondary glass bonds.

I would just leave the seacocks as you suggest except that they are
gate valves that I'm replacing and relocating at the same time.

--

Roger Long

Roger,

I agree with the other posters. If you read about boats sinking, it's
seldom from secondary bonds popping off. More often than not it is a
seacock failing in some way. I figure you have a number of failure
points with a capped off seacock (cap coming loose, corrosion of
thru-hull, long term failure of caulking (like in 10 years).

I would go so far as to say it would not pass a survey with just a cap
on thru hull.

Evan Gatehouse

From a strength, corrosion, and functional standpoint:

If it isn't safe with a cap on it, it isn't safe with a seacock and a
hose.

(I'm talking about capping the bronze through hull; not the seacock.)

OTOH there is no way a scarfed out and secondarily bonded plug will be
as resistant to flexure and impact as the original hull. I would
agree that it would be acceptably safe and strong but still not to the
original standards. The capped seacock, especially with seawater and
the electrical path isolated from the inside of the pipe by proper
plugging, would be more reliable than it was originally.

--

Roger Long



"Evan Gatehouse" wrote in message
...
"Roger Long" wrote in message
...

A bronze cap of the same material and schedule will be just as
reliable as the thru hull which is a no back up component.
Filling
the space with something resilient and flexible will exclude
water and
also serve as a plug. I'd much rather depend on this with the
thru
hull and inner nut sandwiching the glass that grinding back the
hull
structure and depending on secondary glass bonds.

I would just leave the seacocks as you suggest except that they
are
gate valves that I'm replacing and relocating at the same time.

--

Roger Long

Roger,

I agree with the other posters. If you read about boats sinking,
it's seldom from secondary bonds popping off. More often than not
it is a seacock failing in some way. I figure you have a number of
failure points with a capped off seacock (cap coming loose,
corrosion of thru-hull, long term failure of caulking (like in 10
years).

I would go so far as to say it would not pass a survey with just a
cap on thru hull.

Evan Gatehouse

Ken,

I'll be bringing my boat up to Cape Breton this Summer and would
appreciate your recommendations regarding suppliers of
necessaries/desirables for sailboats in the area, as I'll be doing a
lengthy refitting and am unfamiliar with suppliers beyond Port
Hawkesbury, though please don't omit recommendations there either.

On the other hand if you've discovered better sources outside of Cape
Breton, please send them on :-)

Appreciatively,
Courtney



Ken Heaton wrote:

Here is one source:
http://www.stright-mackay.com/pages/...5&CategoryID=5

http://www.stright-mackay.com/



--
s/v Mutiny
Rhodes Bounty II
lying Oriental, NC
WDB5619

Hi Courtney,

Port Hawkesbury is about two hours away by car so I don't buy much there.
Most of the suppliers in Cape Breton service the commercial fishing fleets
and other commercial users but some deal with recreational boaters as well,
such as Sydney Ship Supply (now owned by the IMP Group of companies):
P.O. Box 38
Victoria Road
Sydney, NS
B1N 3B1
Tel: (902) 564-5425
Fax: (902) 539-0904
http://www.impmarine.com/impmarine/

I'd probably be more helpful if you had a specific request for an item or
service. We search for many things online. I used to have all sorts of
links collected together somewhere but I can't find them anymore. Here a
short list of online suppliers in Nova Scotia and beyond:

These guys are based in Halifax, NS: http://ca.binnacle.com/online/

As a http://www.mmosonline.com/

I've dealt with both, both online and by calling or visiting their stores,
and am happy with the service.

In Toronto: http://www.hollandmarine.com/

The next two have a somewhat limited online presence but offer used
equipment.

Based in Sidney, BC: http://www.theboatersexchange.com/

or Vancouver: http://www.marinersxchange.com/


"Courtney Thomas" wrote in message
...
Ken,

I'll be bringing my boat up to Cape Breton this Summer and would
appreciate your recommendations regarding suppliers of
necessaries/desirables for sailboats in the area, as I'll be doing a
lengthy refitting and am unfamiliar with suppliers beyond Port
Hawkesbury, though please don't omit recommendations there either.

On the other hand if you've discovered better sources outside of Cape
Breton, please send them on :-)

Appreciatively,
Courtney



Ken Heaton wrote:

Here is one source:

http://www.stright-mackay.com/pages/...5&CategoryID=5

http://www.stright-mackay.com/



--
s/v Mutiny
Rhodes Bounty II
lying Oriental, NC
WDB5619