Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Jim
 
Posts: n/a
Default Teak deck removal

Anyone done this? How did you do it?

I'm sitting here in the rain thinking about it.

Jim

  #2   Report Post  
Doug Dotson
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I now have vast experience with this. Just finished a complete deck removal.
Which part of the horrible experience would you like to know about. Want to
buy a nice boat with a brand new deck?

Doug
s/v Callista

"Jim" wrote in message
ink.net...
Anyone done this? How did you do it?

I'm sitting here in the rain thinking about it.

Jim



  #3   Report Post  
Peter Bennett
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 21:15:21 -0500, "Doug Dotson"
dougdotson@NOSPAMcablespeedNOSPAMcom wrote:

I now have vast experience with this. Just finished a complete deck removal.
Which part of the horrible experience would you like to know about. Want to
buy a nice boat with a brand new deck?

Doug
s/v Callista


Just give us the gory details (and what you replaced the teak with).

I'm considering removing the teak deck from my cabintop/flybridge
because I seem to have leaks in the deck, and rainwater drips out of
the windowframes onto the galley counter.

If I do remove the teak, I'd need to replace it with something
waterproof and non-skid.



--
Peter Bennett, VE7CEI
peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca
new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq
GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter
Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca
  #4   Report Post  
Stephen Trapani
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Peter Bennett wrote:

On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 21:15:21 -0500, "Doug Dotson"
dougdotson@NOSPAMcablespeedNOSPAMcom wrote:


I now have vast experience with this. Just finished a complete deck removal.
Which part of the horrible experience would you like to know about. Want to
buy a nice boat with a brand new deck?

Doug
s/v Callista



Just give us the gory details (and what you replaced the teak with).

I'm considering removing the teak deck from my cabintop/flybridge
because I seem to have leaks in the deck, and rainwater drips out of
the windowframes onto the galley counter.

If I do remove the teak, I'd need to replace it with something
waterproof and non-skid.


Weatherproof would be nice too.

Stephen

  #5   Report Post  
Lew Hodgett
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Subject

About $2K minimum, a lot of dirty work, and at least 90 days for the
typical 40 ft boat.

Have fun.

Lew


  #6   Report Post  
MMC
 
Posts: n/a
Default

A friend removed the teak deck on his Force 50. Once he got the teak off he
found large sections of rot in the plywood core.
Short (very) version is he cut out the rotted wood, epoxied in new and
covered with glass and epoxy resin, laid out drain lines with tape, non
skidded the rest and then painted the works.
Keep in mind the Force 50 is a Taiwanese boat and the core plywood was crap
to begin with. You may get by with epoxiing about a million screw holes and
not have a rot issue. You'll probably still need to glass the deck as the
layer above the core is usually thin (I believe).
MMC
"Jim" wrote in message
ink.net...
Anyone done this? How did you do it?

I'm sitting here in the rain thinking about it.

Jim



  #7   Report Post  
Jim
 
Posts: n/a
Default




I'm considering removing the teak deck from my cabintop/flybridge
because I seem to have leaks in the deck, and rainwater drips out of
the windowframes onto the galley counter.


Window frames.

It sounds like you and I (and probably a lot of others) have the same
situation.

I have a 80's Albin Trawler. Better built than most. The aft cabin
would leak in a heavy fog. . .

First thing was to replace the two side windows with windows that don't
leak. The frames showed many attempts at unsuccessful repair.

Then I attacked the many small leaks that I didn't know about until I
fixed the windows.

The scuppers, the hause holes, then the deck leaks. Most of my leaks
were in the aft cabin, over one bunk, my bunk.

The deck core is teak ply. It's all teak, no teak vaneer. I have found
no rot, but a lot of places the glue has washed out of the plywood. I
am injecting west epoxy into the voids through the screwholes after
drying out the area. Seems to be working pretty well. These places no
longer drip brown water.

I've replaced the dammaged wood with luan and formica. Brightens things
up a lot.

But I can see that I should just get rid of all the screw holes, inject
west epoxy everywhere it will go, add a layer of glass to the decks and
hopefully end the problem.

Check your scuppers, now that I know what to look for, every set I've
seen look like they are leaking.

Jim

  #8   Report Post  
Doug Dotson
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Peter Bennett" wrote in message
news.com...
On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 21:15:21 -0500, "Doug Dotson"
dougdotson@NOSPAMcablespeedNOSPAMcom wrote:

I now have vast experience with this. Just finished a complete deck
removal.
Which part of the horrible experience would you like to know about. Want
to
buy a nice boat with a brand new deck?

Doug
s/v Callista


Just give us the gory details (and what you replaced the teak with).


Removed the teck (actually Narra in my case) with an air chisel. Removed
all the screws ( about a thousand), filled the holes. Filled and faired,
primed
and then painted and applied non-skid.

I'm considering removing the teak deck from my cabintop/flybridge
because I seem to have leaks in the deck, and rainwater drips out of
the windowframes onto the galley counter.

If I do remove the teak, I'd need to replace it with something
waterproof and non-skid.


Paint it and apply non-skid.



--
Peter Bennett, VE7CEI
peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca
new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq
GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter
Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca



  #9   Report Post  
Jim
 
Posts: n/a
Default





Removed the teck (actually Narra in my case) with an air chisel. Removed
all the screws ( about a thousand), filled the holes. Filled and faired,
primed
and then painted and applied non-skid.


Air chisel, good idea.

  #10   Report Post  
Doug Dotson
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Jim" wrote in message
ink.net...




Removed the teck (actually Narra in my case) with an air chisel. Removed
all the screws ( about a thousand), filled the holes. Filled and faired,
primed
and then painted and applied non-skid.


Air chisel, good idea.


The wood was bedded with polysulfide. Taking it up with the air chisel
resulted
is an impressive pile of toothpicks. My particular boat was not originally
designed
for a wood deck, so under the wood was gelcoat. No need to lay additional
glass other than to repair a few bad spots.

Doug


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is Off
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Teak deck removal Jim Boat Building 7 February 23rd 05 11:14 PM
Teak Deck Panels J.T. Tuomela Boat Building 5 June 30th 04 11:29 PM
FS: Teak Deck Panels in Florida, we ship in US J.T. Tuomela Marketplace 0 June 29th 04 11:50 PM
FS: Teak deck panels in FL J.T. Tuomela Marketplace 0 May 27th 04 04:36 AM
Teak Deck, Heck No! Gary Webster Cruising 0 February 7th 04 01:43 AM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 08:49 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 BoatBanter.com.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about Boats"

 

Copyright © 2017