Teak deck removal
 

Anyone done this? How did you do it?

I'm sitting here in the rain thinking about it.

Jim

I now have vast experience with this. Just finished a complete deck removal.
Which part of the horrible experience would you like to know about. Want to
buy a nice boat with a brand new deck?

Doug
s/v Callista

"Jim" wrote in message
ink.net...
Anyone done this? How did you do it?

I'm sitting here in the rain thinking about it.

Jim

On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 21:15:21 -0500, "Doug Dotson"
dougdotson@NOSPAMcablespeedNOSPAMcom wrote:

I now have vast experience with this. Just finished a complete deck removal.
Which part of the horrible experience would you like to know about. Want to
buy a nice boat with a brand new deck?

Doug
s/v Callista

Just give us the gory details (and what you replaced the teak with).

I'm considering removing the teak deck from my cabintop/flybridge
because I seem to have leaks in the deck, and rainwater drips out of
the windowframes onto the galley counter.

If I do remove the teak, I'd need to replace it with something
waterproof and non-skid.



--
Peter Bennett, VE7CEI
peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca
new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq
GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter
Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca

Peter Bennett wrote:

On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 21:15:21 -0500, "Doug Dotson"
dougdotson@NOSPAMcablespeedNOSPAMcom wrote:


I now have vast experience with this. Just finished a complete deck removal.
Which part of the horrible experience would you like to know about. Want to
buy a nice boat with a brand new deck?

Doug
s/v Callista


Just give us the gory details (and what you replaced the teak with).

I'm considering removing the teak deck from my cabintop/flybridge
because I seem to have leaks in the deck, and rainwater drips out of
the windowframes onto the galley counter.

If I do remove the teak, I'd need to replace it with something
waterproof and non-skid.

Weatherproof would be nice too.

Stephen

Subject

About $2K minimum, a lot of dirty work, and at least 90 days for the
typical 40 ft boat.

Have fun.

Lew

A friend removed the teak deck on his Force 50. Once he got the teak off he
found large sections of rot in the plywood core.
Short (very) version is he cut out the rotted wood, epoxied in new and
covered with glass and epoxy resin, laid out drain lines with tape, non
skidded the rest and then painted the works.
Keep in mind the Force 50 is a Taiwanese boat and the core plywood was crap
to begin with. You may get by with epoxiing about a million screw holes and
not have a rot issue. You'll probably still need to glass the deck as the
layer above the core is usually thin (I believe).
MMC
"Jim" wrote in message
ink.net...
Anyone done this? How did you do it?

I'm sitting here in the rain thinking about it.

Jim

I'm considering removing the teak deck from my cabintop/flybridge
because I seem to have leaks in the deck, and rainwater drips out of
the windowframes onto the galley counter.

Window frames.

It sounds like you and I (and probably a lot of others) have the same
situation.

I have a 80's Albin Trawler. Better built than most. The aft cabin
would leak in a heavy fog. . .

First thing was to replace the two side windows with windows that don't
leak. The frames showed many attempts at unsuccessful repair.

Then I attacked the many small leaks that I didn't know about until I
fixed the windows.

The scuppers, the hause holes, then the deck leaks. Most of my leaks
were in the aft cabin, over one bunk, my bunk.

The deck core is teak ply. It's all teak, no teak vaneer. I have found
no rot, but a lot of places the glue has washed out of the plywood. I
am injecting west epoxy into the voids through the screwholes after
drying out the area. Seems to be working pretty well. These places no
longer drip brown water.

I've replaced the dammaged wood with luan and formica. Brightens things
up a lot.

But I can see that I should just get rid of all the screw holes, inject
west epoxy everywhere it will go, add a layer of glass to the decks and
hopefully end the problem.

Check your scuppers, now that I know what to look for, every set I've
seen look like they are leaking.

Jim

"Peter Bennett" wrote in message
news.com...
On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 21:15:21 -0500, "Doug Dotson"
dougdotson@NOSPAMcablespeedNOSPAMcom wrote:

I now have vast experience with this. Just finished a complete deck
removal.
Which part of the horrible experience would you like to know about. Want
to
buy a nice boat with a brand new deck?

Doug
s/v Callista

Just give us the gory details (and what you replaced the teak with).

Removed the teck (actually Narra in my case) with an air chisel. Removed
all the screws ( about a thousand), filled the holes. Filled and faired,
primed
and then painted and applied non-skid.

I'm considering removing the teak deck from my cabintop/flybridge
because I seem to have leaks in the deck, and rainwater drips out of
the windowframes onto the galley counter.

If I do remove the teak, I'd need to replace it with something
waterproof and non-skid.

Paint it and apply non-skid.



--
Peter Bennett, VE7CEI
peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca
new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq
GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter
Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca

Removed the teck (actually Narra in my case) with an air chisel. Removed
all the screws ( about a thousand), filled the holes. Filled and faired,
primed
and then painted and applied non-skid.

Air chisel, good idea.

"Jim" wrote in message
ink.net...




Removed the teck (actually Narra in my case) with an air chisel. Removed
all the screws ( about a thousand), filled the holes. Filled and faired,
primed
and then painted and applied non-skid.

Air chisel, good idea.

The wood was bedded with polysulfide. Taking it up with the air chisel
resulted
is an impressive pile of toothpicks. My particular boat was not originally
designed
for a wood deck, so under the wood was gelcoat. No need to lay additional
glass other than to repair a few bad spots.

Doug

Depending on the type of bedding compound used, you might find a heat
gun useful.

Take it off very carefully. Don't damage a single piece. Tie it up
in neat bundles. I'll provide the shipping address when you get it
done.

TIP: If you will screw a regular wood screw into each bung it will
lift it out of the bung hole as the screw you insert makes contact
with the screw holding the teak to the deck. This way I'll get nice
clean bung holes when you ship it to me.

Thanks.

Joe

So what did you do with the screw holes as you removed the deck? Something
temporary until the area was ready to refinish? I'm going to face this
someday... yeech.

--


Keith
__
"I feel sorry for people who don't drink. When they wake up in the morning,
that's as good as they're going to feel all day."--Dean Martin
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
ink.net...
Subject

About $2K minimum, a lot of dirty work, and at least 90 days for the
typical 40 ft boat.

Have fun.

Lew

I remove a small section of wood at a time using the air chisel. Maybe 3' x
4'.
The removed the screws, then scraped any remaining juck using a 4" wall
scraper.
Then injected the holes with WEST system to keep the WX out. WEST turned
out to be a poor choice because it is not compatable with polyester fillers
and
primer. So I have to use an epoxy filler and primer. Much harder to sand but
otherwise work great.

Doug

"Keith" wrote in message
...
So what did you do with the screw holes as you removed the deck? Something
temporary until the area was ready to refinish? I'm going to face this
someday... yeech.

--


Keith
__
"I feel sorry for people who don't drink. When they wake up in the
morning, that's as good as they're going to feel all day."--Dean Martin
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
ink.net...
Subject

About $2K minimum, a lot of dirty work, and at least 90 days for the
typical 40 ft boat.

Have fun.

Lew

Doug Dotson wrote:


The wood was bedded with polysulfide. Taking it up with the air chisel
resulted
is an impressive pile of toothpicks.

An unfortunate thing you point out, polysulfide. It has been pointed
out that the polysulfide sealents all these boats were made with is good
for 20 years. Maybe 25.

My boat, 1984, 21 years ago.

Jim wrote:

An unfortunate thing you point out, polysulfide. It has been pointed
out that the polysulfide sealents all these boats were made with is good
for 20 years. Maybe 25.

That should start to give you some idea where my $2K estimate came from.

Lew

My boat is a 1981 so it seems to be true. However, the polysulfide wasn't
failing by any stretch. If it had then I wouldn't have needed the air
chisel.

Doug

"Jim" wrote in message
nk.net...


Doug Dotson wrote:


The wood was bedded with polysulfide. Taking it up with the air chisel
resulted
is an impressive pile of toothpicks.

An unfortunate thing you point out, polysulfide. It has been pointed out
that the polysulfide sealents all these boats were made with is good for
20 years. Maybe 25.

My boat, 1984, 21 years ago.