We closed on the boat that sparked the Lake Erie posts yesterday. I've set
up a section on my web site about the search and purchase for family and
friends. If anyone here is interested:

http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Boat.htm

--

Roger Long

Roger Long wrote:
We closed on the boat that sparked the Lake Erie posts yesterday.

Congrats!

... I've set
up a section on my web site about the search and purchase for family and
friends.

Ditch the watery looking background. Makes the website hard to read.

... If anyone here is interested:

http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Boat.htm


Hmm... looks a lot like a Morgan of slightly older vintage... bound to
be a nice boat!

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

On Thu, 16 Dec 2004 00:40:52 GMT, "Roger Long"
wrote:

We closed on the boat that sparked the Lake Erie posts yesterday. I've set
up a section on my web site about the search and purchase for family and
friends. If anyone here is interested:

http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Boat.htm

Very interesting tale. I am checking out (early stages) steel ketches
and cutters in the 38-45 foot range for a proposed circumnavigation in
4 years or so. There are a surprising number of ocean-ready metal
boats on the Great Lakes (you can't be bothered by hard chines, tho')
that have never seen salt OR are 95% finished by craftsmen
owner/builders who've died or swallowed the anchor. Lots of crap, lots
of absolute bargains, and little corrosion if done right. Also, you
can factor in that with a six-month sailing season on the Lakes, these
boats are half as worn as, say, the average Florida liveaboard.

The simple fact is that a boat owned by an indifferent owner can go to
hell in five years of hard use; a 40 year old "classic plastic" can be
made "better than factory" if a regular schedule of repair and
upgrades by a motivated and "boat-proud" owner is established. And
none of it need cut into your sailing time.

So I agree that your logic was flawless and I wish you well with what
looks like a competant coastal cruiser. With an old boat, though, you
will have to keep on top of deck core rot, bedding issues and all that
salt air finding metal coated "good enough for Michigan" but not good
enough for the Atlantic.

R.

I feel even better now that I've been down to the waterfront to get to know
my local Yamaha mechanic. I said, "2QM20" and he crossed is finger in the
air and said, "You're going to need a new engine. Those are all dying right
about now."

I told him the boat was from the Great Lakes and he said, "Oh, no problem.
In that case, it's a great engine and should be almost as good as new. You
should get 15 more years out of it easy."

BTW I'm a former sailing yacht and tall ship designer still designing
commercial power boats. Feel free to pick my brains about any boats you are
looking at.

--

Roger Long

Roger Long wrote:
I feel even better now that I've been down to the waterfront to get to know
my local Yamaha mechanic. I said, "2QM20" and he crossed is finger in the
air and said, "You're going to need a new engine. Those are all dying right
about now."

I told him the boat was from the Great Lakes and he said, "Oh, no problem.
In that case, it's a great engine and should be almost as good as new. You
should get 15 more years out of it easy."

BTW I'm a former sailing yacht and tall ship designer still designing
commercial power boats. Feel free to pick my brains about any boats you are
looking at.

Is that salt water cooled (i.e. no heat exchanger?)

Yes. I actually went in to ask about converting it to either keel cooling
or heat exchanger. They said not to bother under the circumstances. Since
that was turning down a potential grand of labor, I think they were probably
telling me the truth as they see it.

Nice thing about raw water and wet exhaust is that there is only one pump.
If something interrupts the water flow, you are alerted by the smoke and
smell of burning rubber hose before you overheat and ruin your engine

--

Roger Long



"Jeff Morris" wrote in message
...
Roger Long wrote:
I feel even better now that I've been down to the waterfront to get to
know my local Yamaha mechanic. I said, "2QM20" and he crossed is finger
in the air and said, "You're going to need a new engine. Those are all
dying right about now."

I told him the boat was from the Great Lakes and he said, "Oh, no
problem. In that case, it's a great engine and should be almost as good
as new. You should get 15 more years out of it easy."

BTW I'm a former sailing yacht and tall ship designer still designing
commercial power boats. Feel free to pick my brains about any boats you
are looking at.

Is that salt water cooled (i.e. no heat exchanger?)

On Thu, 16 Dec 2004 18:53:34 GMT, "Roger Long"
wrote:


I told him the boat was from the Great Lakes and he said, "Oh, no problem.
In that case, it's a great engine and should be almost as good as new. You
should get 15 more years out of it easy."

That's about right, and a very good argument for freshwater cooling
via an exchanger. Even in lake water, it can't hurt to run clean
coolant instead of whatever you happen to be sailing in, which can
have goo, poo and/or mussels in it.

BTW I'm a former sailing yacht and tall ship designer still designing
commercial power boats. Feel free to pick my brains about any boats you are
looking at.

Thanks..as time progresses I'll need all the other points of view I
can handle! I can't always count on guys like Skip Gundlach being
online G.

A good friend is debating parting with his Goderich (Huromic) 41 (Bob
Wallstrom design that looks a lot like what his then-partner Ted
Brewer was designing). I've also liked the Kanter 45 Atlantic (which
is a like a stretch version of the Goderich), and I've personally
checked out a Subrero-Prince 40, a 1980 French boat that showed,
sadly, a lot of sub-deck rust. Too bad, as it was a CC pilothouse
cutter-ketch, which I think when combined with a NACA foil and
skeg-hung rudder, is just about ideal for safe world cruising with
plenty of stowage and yet not hopeless at pointing.

Of course if I win a lottery, I'd love to get a Brewer Alaska 43 (old
school!), a Shearwater 45 or an Amel SuperMaru...sigh...so I haven't
ruled out fibreglass! G

R.

On Thu, 16 Dec 2004 19:30:41 GMT, "Roger Long"
wrote:


Nice thing about raw water and wet exhaust is that there is only one pump.
If something interrupts the water flow, you are alerted by the smoke and
smell of burning rubber hose before you overheat and ruin your engine

Don't count on that, as I wrecked a raw water Atomic 4 back when I was
a newbie by forgetting to open the raw water seacock. The impeller
will shred rapidly, clogging your block, which is to be avoided. My
solution was two-fold: put the engine key on a carbiner and hang on
the seacock handle (I keep it closed because I've seen two boat sink
at dock from hose failure). The other method is to install a hot-water
alarm that goes off if the manifold water gets above a certain point.
Same idea as a low-pressure oil circuit: a screeching BEEP will make
you switch off the engine first, and figure out what's died on you.

Oh, yeah, I watch my dials and stick my head over the transom now a
LOT more. Expensive and time-consuming mistake, but I was too new then
to avoid it.

R.

Checklists.

As a pilot, I deal all the time with mistakes that are easier to make than
that and can ruin your butt as well as your engine.

I'm going to goggle temperature alarms right now though. The nice thing
about a boat is that you can just buy something like that and install it.
FAA paperwork makes it almost impossible to add any kind of safety device to
an airplane that wasn't included when it was built.

--

Roger Long



"rhys" wrote in message
...


On Thu, 16 Dec 2004 19:30:41 GMT, "Roger Long"
wrote:


Nice thing about raw water and wet exhaust is that there is only one pump.
If something interrupts the water flow, you are alerted by the smoke and
smell of burning rubber hose before you overheat and ruin your engine

Don't count on that, as I wrecked a raw water Atomic 4 back when I was
a newbie by forgetting to open the raw water seacock. The impeller
will shred rapidly, clogging your block, which is to be avoided. My
solution was two-fold: put the engine key on a carbiner and hang on
the seacock handle (I keep it closed because I've seen two boat sink
at dock from hose failure). The other method is to install a hot-water
alarm that goes off if the manifold water gets above a certain point.
Same idea as a low-pressure oil circuit: a screeching BEEP will make
you switch off the engine first, and figure out what's died on you.

Oh, yeah, I watch my dials and stick my head over the transom now a
LOT more. Expensive and time-consuming mistake, but I was too new then
to avoid it.

R.

the 'key on the seacock' thing is a good idea. My Yanmar doesn't have
a key, I look for the water out the exhaust.


--
Scott Vernon
Plowville Pa _/)__/)_/)_

"rhys" wrote in message
...


On Thu, 16 Dec 2004 19:30:41 GMT, "Roger Long"
wrote:


Nice thing about raw water and wet exhaust is that there is only
one pump.
If something interrupts the water flow, you are alerted by the
smoke and
smell of burning rubber hose before you overheat and ruin your
engine

Don't count on that, as I wrecked a raw water Atomic 4 back when I
was
a newbie by forgetting to open the raw water seacock. The impeller
will shred rapidly, clogging your block, which is to be avoided. My
solution was two-fold: put the engine key on a carbiner and hang on
the seacock handle (I keep it closed because I've seen two boat sink
at dock from hose failure). The other method is to install a
hot-water
alarm that goes off if the manifold water gets above a certain
point.
Same idea as a low-pressure oil circuit: a screeching BEEP will make
you switch off the engine first, and figure out what's died on you.

Oh, yeah, I watch my dials and stick my head over the transom now a
LOT more. Expensive and time-consuming mistake, but I was too new
then
to avoid it.

R.