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~^ beancounter ~^ November 29th 04 03:05 PM

Don...here is the info on my seagull

----------------------------------------------------
40 plus 3 hp / mdl SJM 635 D3 / FP 45FF1
This is Model SJM 635 D3
- the SJM means it's a "Forty Minus", putting it the "lowest"
of the breed
- 636 is the Engine Number
- D3 means April, 1963 (4th month = 4th letter)
- there's no "L", so it's not a long shaft model.
# FP962G9 MAKING IT A JULY,1969 MODEL
------------------------------------------------------
my seagull motor was built in March 1979; the double letters
give it away. seagull started date coding in 1963, with A3=January
1963, B5=February 1965, etc. (December motors were stamped 'M', 'L'
was skipped as it was used to denote long shaft). In order to avoid
confusion, in 1973, the month code went to double letters. My motor
has the Mk III electronic ignition (nice, no points to corrode
or adjust), indicated by the 'E' before 'FPL' (Forty Plus, long
shaft).

-------------------------------------------------------




"Don White" wrote in message ...
"~^ beancounter ~^" wrote in message
om...
bingo!!...we let this family o/b sit, leaned against the side of the
house in long beach, ca...for, like, 10 years...it was my wifes
fathers unit...it worked great...now, i want to get it running "tits"
again, and am having to sink some $ into it to get there...thanx for
the tips, we will take care of it this time..i am also fixing up a
nice little seagull....richard / colorado


What Seagull do ypu have?
Mine is a 1954 40 Plus 3hp. It hit 50 this year. I should have taken it
out for a run ......I'll promise it some exercise next summer.


~^ beancounter ~^ November 29th 04 03:08 PM

damm...50 years old? that's great...




"Don White" wrote in message ...
"~^ beancounter ~^" wrote in message
om...
bingo!!...we let this family o/b sit, leaned against the side of the
house in long beach, ca...for, like, 10 years...it was my wifes
fathers unit...it worked great...now, i want to get it running "tits"
again, and am having to sink some $ into it to get there...thanx for
the tips, we will take care of it this time..i am also fixing up a
nice little seagull....richard / colorado


What Seagull do ypu have?
Mine is a 1954 40 Plus 3hp. It hit 50 this year. I should have taken it
out for a run ......I'll promise it some exercise next summer.


~^ beancounter ~^ November 29th 04 03:10 PM

yep Rich...I know just the type of shop you are
speaking about...thanx...




Rich Hampel wrote in message ...
For a mechanic for this engine, look for a mechanic with grey or white
hair and who has been in the business for most of his lifetime.
Typicaly someone with a small independent shop .... someone who wont
rip you off.
;-)



In article , ~^
beancounter ~^ wrote:

rich...thanx for this info...i am going to snip the info below and fwd
it to my mechanic (he is online)...i will find out what "shaft" is bad
or fouled up. i thought he said the long shaft...but, i do recall him
mentioning the crank and head parts / area ..... do you recomend any
mechaincs that are "tops" for this motor? i may be interested in
shipping it for a "re build", fresh paint & lables in the next 12
months, or so...richard / colorado





Its not usually the 'shaft' that you need but usually the crankshaft...
as if you didnt yearly grease the output 'nose' of the crankshaft, it
will corrode and lose engagement with the output shaft, the shaft being
steel and with the spines longer lasting than the splines in the cast
iron cranikshaft nose.
A new crankshaft is fairly inexpensive. Dont forget to include the
'air' seals for the crankshaft to prevent ambient air leakage into the
the chamber; plus, seals for the lower gear head.

Always run the gasoline mix out of the engine when stopping to prevent
gum and varnish formation. Use a fuel stabilizer or totally drain the
engine/carb when you put it away for more than 30 days. When long term
storing, remove the main jet screw and 'shoot in' isopropyl alcohol to
wash out the carb, then immediately drain, etc.

The old 2hp Evinrude/Johnson will probably last 100 years --- IF you
take care of it.
:-)


~^ beancounter ~^ November 30th 04 07:37 PM

i did a bit of browsing, looking for a url to
order new/used parts...and i didn't one for the
new owners of the motor line...does anyone have
a phone number, or url for a good, honest, "fully
stocked" company to get parts from?

thanx...




For a mechanic for this engine, look for a mechanic with grey or white
hair and who has been in the business for most of his lifetime.
Typicaly someone with a small independent shop .... someone who wont
rip you off.
;-)



~^ beancounter ~^ November 30th 04 11:46 PM

i chatted w/my mechanic...he states
so, i guess i am looking for a crankshaft & bering
housing...



---------snip------------------------------

"We need the crank shaft PT #314696 or 328838
I can order it for 208.57 Brng Hsng # 383231
is No Longer Avalible If we get one great
(I need to look at the one we have not sure
if I can salvage it). The rest of the parts
I can salvage or order as needed..gaskets etc .....

--------------------------------------------

~^ beancounter ~^ December 2nd 04 10:55 PM

hey rich....i bought a used one (2hp) on eBay
that looks like it will "match right up" for
parts...etc...If I have frozen the crankshaft
(just as you thought) is it runied? or, should i
be able to salavage my old one...like, if i take
it apart carefuly and work on it a bit??

thanx...






Its not usually the 'shaft' that you need but usually the crankshaft...
as if you didnt yearly grease the output 'nose' of the crankshaft, it
will corrode and lose engagement with the output shaft, the shaft being
steel and with the spines longer lasting than the splines in the cast
iron cranikshaft nose.
A new crankshaft is fairly inexpensive. Dont forget to include the
'air' seals for the crankshaft to prevent ambient air leakage into the
the chamber; plus, seals for the lower gear head.

Always run the gasoline mix out of the engine when stopping to prevent
gum and varnish formation. Use a fuel stabilizer or totally drain the
engine/carb when you put it away for more than 30 days. When long term
storing, remove the main jet screw and 'shoot in' isopropyl alcohol to
wash out the carb, then immediately drain, etc.

The old 2hp Evinrude/Johnson will probably last 100 years --- IF you
take care of it.
:-)



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