wtb: evenrude / johnson 79' 2 hp parts
 

i am seeking parts for my 1979 evenrude / johnson 2 hp outboard.
if anyone has one (one or two years, either side of 1979) laying
around they would like to sell for parts...i am interested is
discussing the details, i think the main part i need is a working
"freed up: shaft, that runs from the head, down to the lower end........

thanx !!

to the best of my knowledge, ev/jo 2 hp engines were much the same from 1969
(?) to 1995. Many of the parts from the earlier 1-1/2 hp engines fit as well.

Bombardier Ltd of Canada (snomobiles) bought the remains of
Evinrude/Johnson. All the parts for these engines are still available
at most outboard dealers.

Its not usually the 'shaft' that you need but usually the crankshaft...
as if you didnt yearly grease the output 'nose' of the crankshaft, it
will corrode and lose engagement with the output shaft, the shaft being
steel and with the spines longer lasting than the splines in the cast
iron cranikshaft nose.
A new crankshaft is fairly inexpensive. Dont forget to include the
'air' seals for the crankshaft to prevent ambient air leakage into the
the chamber; plus, seals for the lower gear head.

Always run the gasoline mix out of the engine when stopping to prevent
gum and varnish formation. Use a fuel stabilizer or totally drain the
engine/carb when you put it away for more than 30 days. When long term
storing, remove the main jet screw and 'shoot in' isopropyl alcohol to
wash out the carb, then immediately drain, etc.

The old 2hp Evinrude/Johnson will probably last 100 years --- IF you
take care of it.
:-)

n article , ~^
beancounter ~^ wrote:

i am seeking parts for my 1979 evenrude / johnson 2 hp outboard.
if anyone has one (one or two years, either side of 1979) laying
around they would like to sell for parts...i am interested is
discussing the details, i think the main part i need is a working
"freed up: shaft, that runs from the head, down to the lower end........

thanx !!

yea...thanx...i know there are at least a few years "either side"

69 to 95 would be a great range.. 25 yrs, or so...i should
be able to find some scraps here or there...

(JAXAshby) wrote in message ...
to the best of my knowledge, ev/jo 2 hp engines were much the same from 1969
(?) to 1995. Many of the parts from the earlier 1-1/2 hp engines fit as well.

bingo!!...we let this family o/b sit, leaned against the side of the
house in long beach, ca...for, like, 10 years...it was my wifes
fathers unit...it worked great...now, i want to get it running "tits"
again, and am having to sink some $ into it to get there...thanx for
the tips, we will take care of it this time..i am also fixing up a
nice little seagull....richard / colorado




The old 2hp Evinrude/Johnson will probably last 100 years --- IF you
take care of it.
:-)





Rich Hampel wrote in message ...
Bombardier Ltd of Canada (snomobiles) bought the remains of
Evinrude/Johnson. All the parts for these engines are still available
at most outboard dealers.

Its not usually the 'shaft' that you need but usually the crankshaft...
as if you didnt yearly grease the output 'nose' of the crankshaft, it
will corrode and lose engagement with the output shaft, the shaft being
steel and with the spines longer lasting than the splines in the cast
iron cranikshaft nose.
A new crankshaft is fairly inexpensive. Dont forget to include the
'air' seals for the crankshaft to prevent ambient air leakage into the
the chamber; plus, seals for the lower gear head.

Always run the gasoline mix out of the engine when stopping to prevent
gum and varnish formation. Use a fuel stabilizer or totally drain the
engine/carb when you put it away for more than 30 days. When long term
storing, remove the main jet screw and 'shoot in' isopropyl alcohol to
wash out the carb, then immediately drain, etc.

The old 2hp Evinrude/Johnson will probably last 100 years --- IF you
take care of it.
:-)

n article , ~^
beancounter ~^ wrote:

i am seeking parts for my 1979 evenrude / johnson 2 hp outboard.
if anyone has one (one or two years, either side of 1979) laying
around they would like to sell for parts...i am interested is
discussing the details, i think the main part i need is a working
"freed up: shaft, that runs from the head, down to the lower end........

thanx !!

rich...thanx for this info...i am going to snip the info below and fwd
it to my mechanic (he is online)...i will find out what "shaft" is bad
or fouled up. i thought he said the long shaft...but, i do recall him
mentioning the crank and head parts / area ..... do you recomend any
mechaincs that are "tops" for this motor? i may be interested in
shipping it for a "re build", fresh paint & lables in the next 12
months, or so...richard / colorado





Its not usually the 'shaft' that you need but usually the crankshaft...
as if you didnt yearly grease the output 'nose' of the crankshaft, it
will corrode and lose engagement with the output shaft, the shaft being
steel and with the spines longer lasting than the splines in the cast
iron cranikshaft nose.
A new crankshaft is fairly inexpensive. Dont forget to include the
'air' seals for the crankshaft to prevent ambient air leakage into the
the chamber; plus, seals for the lower gear head.

Always run the gasoline mix out of the engine when stopping to prevent
gum and varnish formation. Use a fuel stabilizer or totally drain the
engine/carb when you put it away for more than 30 days. When long term
storing, remove the main jet screw and 'shoot in' isopropyl alcohol to
wash out the carb, then immediately drain, etc.

The old 2hp Evinrude/Johnson will probably last 100 years --- IF you
take care of it.
:-)

"~^ beancounter ~^" wrote in message
om...
bingo!!...we let this family o/b sit, leaned against the side of the
house in long beach, ca...for, like, 10 years...it was my wifes
fathers unit...it worked great...now, i want to get it running "tits"
again, and am having to sink some $ into it to get there...thanx for
the tips, we will take care of it this time..i am also fixing up a
nice little seagull....richard / colorado


What Seagull do ypu have?
Mine is a 1954 40 Plus 3hp. It hit 50 this year. I should have taken it
out for a run ......I'll promise it some exercise next summer.

"Harry Krause" wrote in message
...




Good grief...I had a new Evinrude Ducktwin around that time, and would
see an occasional Seagull on a sailboat at the marina. Even then, the
Evinrude looked 100 years more advanced than the Seagull...Has yours
been in your family that long?

--
Bought the used motor on July 08 1995 from the local dealer who operated
from his house basement. I still have the receipt.
This guy was Mr. Santa Clause around here during the 1950's & 60's. I can
still remember the Christmas pledge we would recite each week up til the big
day. Bill would be on the local CBC station...the only station here until
1961. I guess he had a captive audience.

I did have the same model motor (could be the same one for all I know) on my
17' Siren sailboat in 1984/85.
The Sandpiper I have now came with a 1986 6hp Evinrude Yachtwin long shaft.

Whoa!
If this puppy has been sitting for 10 years, then be sure NOT to start
or try to start the engine without first verifying that the piston
rings havent frozen to the piston ring grooves. If the rings are frozen
to the grooves and you attempt to start it you WILL break the rings.
One of two choices:
1. disassemble the engine and remove to piston to be SURE the rings
arent frozen. Will need new head gasket, and crankshaft (air)seal.
2. remove the sparkplug and pour in a few tablespoons of Marvel
Mystery Oil - let soak for at least two weeks. Slowly turn over the
engine by the magneto.... if the crankshaft doesnt turn, rock it back
and forth GENTLY -- do not FORCE it. Add more MMO and repeat, repeat,
repeat until it no longer 'binds', then attempt to start.

After 10 years of sitting you will need to totally disassemble the
carburator, clean all the formed gum and varnish out of ALL the fuel
AND air bleed orfices and channels, etc.

Good luck.


In article , ~^
beancounter ~^ wrote:

bingo!!...we let this family o/b sit, leaned against the side of the
house in long beach, ca...for, like, 10 years...it was my wifes
fathers unit...it worked great...now, i want to get it running "tits"
again, and am having to sink some $ into it to get there...thanx for
the tips, we will take care of it this time..i am also fixing up a
nice little seagull....richard / colorado




The old 2hp Evinrude/Johnson will probably last 100 years --- IF you
take care of it.
:-)





Rich Hampel wrote in message
...
Bombardier Ltd of Canada (snomobiles) bought the remains of
Evinrude/Johnson. All the parts for these engines are still available
at most outboard dealers.

Its not usually the 'shaft' that you need but usually the crankshaft...
as if you didnt yearly grease the output 'nose' of the crankshaft, it
will corrode and lose engagement with the output shaft, the shaft being
steel and with the spines longer lasting than the splines in the cast
iron cranikshaft nose.
A new crankshaft is fairly inexpensive. Dont forget to include the
'air' seals for the crankshaft to prevent ambient air leakage into the
the chamber; plus, seals for the lower gear head.

Always run the gasoline mix out of the engine when stopping to prevent
gum and varnish formation. Use a fuel stabilizer or totally drain the
engine/carb when you put it away for more than 30 days. When long term
storing, remove the main jet screw and 'shoot in' isopropyl alcohol to
wash out the carb, then immediately drain, etc.

The old 2hp Evinrude/Johnson will probably last 100 years --- IF you
take care of it.
:-)

n article , ~^
beancounter ~^ wrote:

i am seeking parts for my 1979 evenrude / johnson 2 hp outboard.
if anyone has one (one or two years, either side of 1979) laying
around they would like to sell for parts...i am interested is
discussing the details, i think the main part i need is a working
"freed up: shaft, that runs from the head, down to the lower end........

thanx !!

For a mechanic for this engine, look for a mechanic with grey or white
hair and who has been in the business for most of his lifetime.
Typicaly someone with a small independent shop .... someone who wont
rip you off.
;-)



In article , ~^
beancounter ~^ wrote:

rich...thanx for this info...i am going to snip the info below and fwd
it to my mechanic (he is online)...i will find out what "shaft" is bad
or fouled up. i thought he said the long shaft...but, i do recall him
mentioning the crank and head parts / area ..... do you recomend any
mechaincs that are "tops" for this motor? i may be interested in
shipping it for a "re build", fresh paint & lables in the next 12
months, or so...richard / colorado





Its not usually the 'shaft' that you need but usually the crankshaft...
as if you didnt yearly grease the output 'nose' of the crankshaft, it
will corrode and lose engagement with the output shaft, the shaft being
steel and with the spines longer lasting than the splines in the cast
iron cranikshaft nose.
A new crankshaft is fairly inexpensive. Dont forget to include the
'air' seals for the crankshaft to prevent ambient air leakage into the
the chamber; plus, seals for the lower gear head.

Always run the gasoline mix out of the engine when stopping to prevent
gum and varnish formation. Use a fuel stabilizer or totally drain the
engine/carb when you put it away for more than 30 days. When long term
storing, remove the main jet screw and 'shoot in' isopropyl alcohol to
wash out the carb, then immediately drain, etc.

The old 2hp Evinrude/Johnson will probably last 100 years --- IF you
take care of it.
:-)

Don...here is the info on my seagull

----------------------------------------------------
40 plus 3 hp / mdl SJM 635 D3 / FP 45FF1
This is Model SJM 635 D3
- the SJM means it's a "Forty Minus", putting it the "lowest"
of the breed
- 636 is the Engine Number
- D3 means April, 1963 (4th month = 4th letter)
- there's no "L", so it's not a long shaft model.
# FP962G9 MAKING IT A JULY,1969 MODEL
------------------------------------------------------
my seagull motor was built in March 1979; the double letters
give it away. seagull started date coding in 1963, with A3=January
1963, B5=February 1965, etc. (December motors were stamped 'M', 'L'
was skipped as it was used to denote long shaft). In order to avoid
confusion, in 1973, the month code went to double letters. My motor
has the Mk III electronic ignition (nice, no points to corrode
or adjust), indicated by the 'E' before 'FPL' (Forty Plus, long
shaft).

-------------------------------------------------------




"Don White" wrote in message ...
"~^ beancounter ~^" wrote in message
om...
bingo!!...we let this family o/b sit, leaned against the side of the
house in long beach, ca...for, like, 10 years...it was my wifes
fathers unit...it worked great...now, i want to get it running "tits"
again, and am having to sink some $ into it to get there...thanx for
the tips, we will take care of it this time..i am also fixing up a
nice little seagull....richard / colorado


What Seagull do ypu have?
Mine is a 1954 40 Plus 3hp. It hit 50 this year. I should have taken it
out for a run ......I'll promise it some exercise next summer.

damm...50 years old? that's great...




"Don White" wrote in message ...
"~^ beancounter ~^" wrote in message
om...
bingo!!...we let this family o/b sit, leaned against the side of the
house in long beach, ca...for, like, 10 years...it was my wifes
fathers unit...it worked great...now, i want to get it running "tits"
again, and am having to sink some $ into it to get there...thanx for
the tips, we will take care of it this time..i am also fixing up a
nice little seagull....richard / colorado


What Seagull do ypu have?
Mine is a 1954 40 Plus 3hp. It hit 50 this year. I should have taken it
out for a run ......I'll promise it some exercise next summer.

yep Rich...I know just the type of shop you are
speaking about...thanx...




Rich Hampel wrote in message ...
For a mechanic for this engine, look for a mechanic with grey or white
hair and who has been in the business for most of his lifetime.
Typicaly someone with a small independent shop .... someone who wont
rip you off.
;-)



In article , ~^
beancounter ~^ wrote:

rich...thanx for this info...i am going to snip the info below and fwd
it to my mechanic (he is online)...i will find out what "shaft" is bad
or fouled up. i thought he said the long shaft...but, i do recall him
mentioning the crank and head parts / area ..... do you recomend any
mechaincs that are "tops" for this motor? i may be interested in
shipping it for a "re build", fresh paint & lables in the next 12
months, or so...richard / colorado





Its not usually the 'shaft' that you need but usually the crankshaft...
as if you didnt yearly grease the output 'nose' of the crankshaft, it
will corrode and lose engagement with the output shaft, the shaft being
steel and with the spines longer lasting than the splines in the cast
iron cranikshaft nose.
A new crankshaft is fairly inexpensive. Dont forget to include the
'air' seals for the crankshaft to prevent ambient air leakage into the
the chamber; plus, seals for the lower gear head.

Always run the gasoline mix out of the engine when stopping to prevent
gum and varnish formation. Use a fuel stabilizer or totally drain the
engine/carb when you put it away for more than 30 days. When long term
storing, remove the main jet screw and 'shoot in' isopropyl alcohol to
wash out the carb, then immediately drain, etc.

The old 2hp Evinrude/Johnson will probably last 100 years --- IF you
take care of it.
:-)

i did a bit of browsing, looking for a url to
order new/used parts...and i didn't one for the
new owners of the motor line...does anyone have
a phone number, or url for a good, honest, "fully
stocked" company to get parts from?

thanx...




For a mechanic for this engine, look for a mechanic with grey or white
hair and who has been in the business for most of his lifetime.
Typicaly someone with a small independent shop .... someone who wont
rip you off.
;-)

i chatted w/my mechanic...he states
so, i guess i am looking for a crankshaft & bering
housing...



---------snip------------------------------

"We need the crank shaft PT #314696 or 328838
I can order it for 208.57 Brng Hsng # 383231
is No Longer Avalible If we get one great
(I need to look at the one we have not sure
if I can salvage it). The rest of the parts
I can salvage or order as needed..gaskets etc .....

--------------------------------------------

hey rich....i bought a used one (2hp) on eBay
that looks like it will "match right up" for
parts...etc...If I have frozen the crankshaft
(just as you thought) is it runied? or, should i
be able to salavage my old one...like, if i take
it apart carefuly and work on it a bit??

thanx...






Its not usually the 'shaft' that you need but usually the crankshaft...
as if you didnt yearly grease the output 'nose' of the crankshaft, it
will corrode and lose engagement with the output shaft, the shaft being
steel and with the spines longer lasting than the splines in the cast
iron cranikshaft nose.
A new crankshaft is fairly inexpensive. Dont forget to include the
'air' seals for the crankshaft to prevent ambient air leakage into the
the chamber; plus, seals for the lower gear head.

Always run the gasoline mix out of the engine when stopping to prevent
gum and varnish formation. Use a fuel stabilizer or totally drain the
engine/carb when you put it away for more than 30 days. When long term
storing, remove the main jet screw and 'shoot in' isopropyl alcohol to
wash out the carb, then immediately drain, etc.

The old 2hp Evinrude/Johnson will probably last 100 years --- IF you
take care of it.
:-)