While it may be true that adding an electric fuel pump is a good thing, I'm a bit
surprised that so many people are advising that rather than considering why the OP has
a problem to start with. I've replaced the primary and secondary filters on Yanmar
2GM's a dozen times and never had to bleed for more than a few minutes. The OP said
it takes two hours to prime; I usually change both filters, bleed, and have the engine
running again in well under an hour.

On a slightly different topic, the Westerbeke I had on my last boat was "self
bleeding" so I never had a problem with this. What makes a system "self bleeding"?
Does it have a special valve to release the air bubbles?

"Rich Hampel" wrote in message
...
Install a 12v DC fuel pump at the outlet of the tank and BEFORE the
filter set. When you need to bleed just turn on the 12v pump and
sequentually bleed everything until you reach the guard filter on the
engine. Such 12v pumps are arranged with diaphragm valves and will add
NO extra differential pressure requirements to the fuel system when not
operating .... they just sit there until needed.
BTW - be sure to specify a 12v pump that has EPDM
(ethylenePropyleneDiamineMonomer) gaskets and O-ring which are
compatible with diesel fuel.


In article , Chris
Butler wrote:

I just finished winterizing my 2002 1GM10 Yanmar Diesel (that runs on
a Menger 19' Cat boat) and think there must be a better way of
bleeding the fuel system. For the past three seasons I have changed
the water seperator and paper filter on the engine at the end of every
season. Then I begin the huge task of pumping the Raycor water
seperator for the next hour until fuel starts flowing into the engine.
After that I start pumping the lever on the oil pump (1 hour). Once I
get fuel into the lines the rest of the bleeding goes very easy. My
hand afterwards is sore and battered! I have tried cranking the engine
for short bursts with the compression lever up (this does not seem to
help). Is there anyway to prime or help this process along the way?