I installed 2 batteries using the 1-2 all switch and now my volt gauge reads
+14 when i am at high rpms ,Is this normal ?


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"C.Lohnes" writes:
I installed 2 batteries using the 1-2 all switch and now my volt gauge
reads
+14 when i am at high rpms ,Is this normal ?

Possibly, it all depends on the alternator output curve and the voltage
regulator settings.


--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures

"C.Lohnes" wrote in message
. ..
I installed 2 batteries using the 1-2 all switch and now my volt gauge
reads
+14 when i am at high rpms ,Is this normal ?

Yea, 13.7 to 14.2 is normal charging voltage. Just make sure you never
switch batteries when the engine is running, the alt puts out rectified DC
and w/o a battery connected when the engine is running the rectified DC can
fry electronics.

mark

On Wed, 4 Aug 2004 00:20:19 -0400, "C.Lohnes"
wrote:

I installed 2 batteries using the 1-2 all switch and now my volt gauge reads
+14 when i am at high rpms ,Is this normal ?


Yes

Brian W

"C.Lohnes" wrote in message
. ..
I installed 2 batteries using the 1-2 all switch and now my volt gauge
reads
+14 when i am at high rpms ,Is this normal ?

Yes - Try this page for more battery charging info.
http://www.batteryuniversity.com/partone-13.htm

Mark

On 4 Aug 2004 09:42:22 -0500, Dave wrote:
If I'm not mistaken, most battery switches are of the "make before break"
type, so unless the switching is being done some other way it shouldn't be a
problem.
=============================================

That's the theory but in actual practice "hot switching" has probably
caused more alternator failures than any other reason. My
recommendation is not to do it at all, and if absolutely necessary,
only at idle speed.

rock_doctor wrote:

"C.Lohnes" wrote in message
. ..

I installed 2 batteries using the 1-2 all switch and now my volt gauge

reads

+14 when i am at high rpms ,Is this normal ?


Yea, 13.7 to 14.2 is normal charging voltage. Just make sure you never
switch batteries when the engine is running, the alt puts out rectified DC
and w/o a battery connected when the engine is running the rectified DC can
fry electronics.

mark


Passing through the "both" position to change batteries will not
hurt. Properly wired field control terminals present on good
quality battery switches will prevent alternator damage from turning
batteries off while running the engine, buy stopping the excitation
in the field rotor before opening the battery line. Electronic
controlled alternators should not burn out even if the battery is
disconnected while running, but don't trust this unless you know
your alternator will survive for sure. I consider this unreliable.
An alternator might survive several switch-off occurrences, but then
fail on the next one. Don't think that surviving one or two is any
reassurance, especially since damage to only one alternator diode
may go unnoticed by the uninitiated, apprentice tech, until the
battery goes tits up.

A good over voltage (15 volt) surge supressor should protect even
sensitive alternators. Surge suppressors have a habit of failing
unnanounced, going AWOL if you will, deserting their alternator
buddies to strange fates. Even a relatively small voltage spike may
damage other electronics if you turn off batteries while running the
engine, dependant on wiring.

Terry K

Some assume that because they have switched batteries while
engine is running, then switching will never destroy
alternators. Manufacturers tend to disagree. Switching
batteries while engine is running can cause a problem known as
load dump. Load dump can damage alternator and can damage
other electronics. Get the battery change over to occur just
right and the alternator can suffer. It will not happen every
time. It is a rare event. But 10 miles out is no place to
suddenly lose both alternators. With no alternator, boat
engine will only run as long as battery charge remains. And
this assumes the boat operator knows alternators have failed.
Sometimes the failure can remain undetected by monitors.

From SGS Thompson - a manufacturer of these surge protection
devices for the load dump problem:
"The overvoltage is named the load dump and can be defined
by the following figures:
- Peak voltage 80 to 100 volts
- Duration 300 to 400 milliseconds
- Series resistance 0.2 to 1 ohms"

In 1996, SGS Thompson states the solution still leaves the
problem unsolved:

"For the first protection mode, there are several existing products
able to clamp this overvoltage at the board level, for example the
LDP24 or RBO series. The protection at the alternator level is
a quite new concept and all the technical problems do not seem
to be completely solved."



Terry Spragg wrote:
Passing through the "both" position to change batteries will not
hurt. Properly wired field control terminals present on good
quality battery switches will prevent alternator damage from turning
batteries off while running the engine, buy stopping the excitation
in the field rotor before opening the battery line. Electronic
controlled alternators should not burn out even if the battery is
disconnected while running, but don't trust this unless you know
your alternator will survive for sure. I consider this unreliable.
An alternator might survive several switch-off occurrences, but then
fail on the next one. Don't think that surviving one or two is any
reassurance, especially since damage to only one alternator diode
may go unnoticed by the uninitiated, apprentice tech, until the
battery goes tits up.

A good over voltage (15 volt) surge supressor should protect even
sensitive alternators. Surge suppressors have a habit of failing
unnanounced, going AWOL if you will, deserting their alternator
buddies to strange fates. Even a relatively small voltage spike may
damage other electronics if you turn off batteries while running the
engine, dependant on wiring.

Terry K

Or spend $8 for a snubber and install it. Eliminates the potential
for frying the diode pack.

Doug
s/v Callista

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On 4 Aug 2004 09:42:22 -0500, Dave wrote:
If I'm not mistaken, most battery switches are of the "make before break"
type, so unless the switching is being done some other way it shouldn't
be a
problem.
=============================================

That's the theory but in actual practice "hot switching" has probably
caused more alternator failures than any other reason. My
recommendation is not to do it at all, and if absolutely necessary,
only at idle speed.

But 10 miles out is no place to
suddenly lose both alternators. With no alternator, boat
engine will only run as long as battery charge remains.

Yet another reason to buy a diesel

Doug
s/v Callista